OK, I've gathered some further information on this topic, so let's put it all in one place for easy reference.
This is based on the K1600, as that's the bike I have on hand for reference. Other bikes should look quite similar, if not exactly the same.
I took some pics comparing the fuel pump plate on a 2012 GTL (built Feb 2011, so part of this recall) and the plate on a 2013 GTL (built Jan 2013, so not
part of this recall).
In the first pic of the 2013 GTL, you can clearly see the silver metal ring around the raised plastic boss that the female quick disconnect threads into. This reinforcement, along with not
over tightening of the tapered pipe thread fitting, should eliminate any potential cracking issues.
In this pic of the 2012 GTL, you can see the silver metal ring is not there.
Older Beemers, such as the K12/13GT and the R12RT/GS use a similar fuel pump plate, with a taller threaded plastic boss that is more prone to cracking. This is a pic of a fuel pump plate (from an RT, I believe) that had developed cracks, but wasn't leaking yet (at least while it was all still put together):
BMW's solution is to replace the fuel pump plate with the updated version on bikes where cracks are found, or to add a reinforcing clamp on bikes where no cracks are found. This has been a known fix on various Beemer forums, such that Beemer Boneyard
actually sells a Fuel Pump Flange Repair Clamp
for the K12/13 and R12 bikes. I imagine the BMW factory clamp is quite similar, with slight variations depending on the specific model involved.
One other issue that has come up on some older bikes is the plastic male portion of the quick disconnect has been known to break. There is a slot on the fitting's body that makes the fitting quite thin at that point, and clumsy removal/insertion can stress that area, eventually leading to a break.
No, I don't know why BMW and the NHTSA didn't address this at the same time, except maybe this problem is more likely to occur during service than suddenly while you're riding down the highway.
You can see the white plastic male fitting in the first pic above, but here it is again, next to the replacement metal (chrome plated brass) fitting.
The correct replacement fitting can be bought from Omega.com, for $36.10 under part # FT-LCD230-04-FKM
. That exact part # will get you the 90° metal version, with the correct 1/4" inlet and outlet, and the fuel-safe Viton o-ring.
You can also buy the mating female part in metal, but those don't really fail, so it's best to just leave the factory plastic female fitting in place.
The hardest part about this replacement is getting the old hose clamp loose and getting the new clamp on. It's easiest to just cut the hose to get the old clamp off, but you want to minimize how much hose you take off. There's a bit more slack on the K16 bikes than the older K12/13 and R12 bikes, but still, it's best to retain as much length as possible.
You can use a new BMW-style pinch clamp, as pictured above, but that requires a special pinch clamp tool, as shown below.
If you don't have this tool (or don't want to buy it for one clamp), you can use a standard small screwdriver-operated hose clamp. It's probably worth it to buy a special fuel line clamp with a smooth inside that minimizes damage to the fuel line from your local auto supply store. Be sure to orient the thick part of the hose clamp to the back of the male fitting so as to avoid interference with the fuel pump plate or female fitting.
And this pic shows the new fitting installed (notably on the old style fuel pump plate).
That ought to clear things up a bit.