gas tank removal - BMW Luxury Touring Community
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post #1 of 5 Old Nov 8th, 2013, 6:01 am Thread Starter
rlv
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Location: Alcoa, TN, USA
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gas tank removal

I have taken all the Tupperware off the bike and all the bolts that hold the gas tank.
I am ready to lift the tank out.
Question, do I remove the plastic adaptor holding, I would guess, the gas tank vent hose or just pull the hose?
By lifting the tank partially out I can see some connections at the front of the tank, is this where the gas disconnects are.
I think that I have read on the (LT) forum that these should be replaced because they are plastic. Is this also true for the GT, and if so does anybody have brand and or part numbers.
I also want to remove the canister, which line do I plug?
Where do I locate the paint color code for the bike.
It is the blue color for 2007, hopefully only one blue that year.
I have noticed that there is not much activity on this forum.
Guess everybody has gone to the 1600.
Also noticed that messenger13 has been gone since 2008.
Where did he get off to.

Richard Vogt
2007 (Silver) R1200RT
2010 R1200GSA (Gertrude)
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post #2 of 5 Old Nov 12th, 2013, 8:32 pm
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Re: gas tank removal

Slide the vent hose off the fitting and disconnect the electrical and fuel connectors at the front. Nothing has to be forced if you know how to operate them.

DO NOT try to take the flange off the tank just to remove the tank.

DO inspect the female fuel fitting at the flange for cracks around the edge- maybe add the reinforcing ring you can get from Beemer Boneyard- that female fitting is the same as those that have cracked a bunch on R bikes and some Ks.

You can also buy new metal QDs with the right clamps from BB. DO NOT try to use regular hose clamps from a big box place on fuel lines- they will leak under pressure eventually and you run the risk of immolating your bike.
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post #3 of 5 Old Nov 12th, 2013, 8:45 pm
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Re: gas tank removal

If you are wanting to remove the tank altogether, disconnect 2 fuel lines on the right and the electrical plug at the top for the fuel level sensor. Slide the tank towards the back of the bike and lift off. There are no other connectors on the gas tank. That's for the LT. Not sure about the GT.

I remember Messenger 13. I think you can search on keywords. You might check to see if there was an explanation for his departure. I seem to recall that he just decided to move on from the LT world.
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post #4 of 5 Old Nov 25th, 2013, 2:59 pm
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Re: gas tank removal

2006 BMW K1200 GT Fuel Tank removal


The following is my attempt at DYI for varying updates/maintenance.
Highly suggest that you empty the fuel as much as possible by running the engine or siphon/pump.
I used the siphon/pump method with a cheap pump I bought at Harbor Freight ($5).





The wood stick was used to attach the tube to reach the depths of the tank.
Also remove the Battery (see separate DYI in HOW).
Remove side fairings (plastics) (see separate DYI in HOW).





Plastics removal entails the use of a Torx T-25 driver.


Remove filler cap bolts (6, T-25) and pull the cap assembly up and off.















Remove the following bolts (tank plastics)
Battery area (2)

Sides of tank (3 each side) see pics above concerning fairing (plastics) removal, both sides.

Seat area (4)


Remove plastics from around the fuel tank.
Remove the fuel tank anchor bolts (1, 5mm Allen) each side mid point of the tank.



Remove support bracket (with rubber foot, 1, 13mm nut) each side closer to the seating area. This facilitates the movement to the rear of the tank so as to disconnect the fuel line and power cords on the front of the fuel tank. Side bolts shown.




Remove (pull off) overflow/vent tube. The other end of this tube is #8 on the charcoal canister exploded parts diagram.



Slightly lift tank and pull towards the rear. This will expose the front area of the fuel tank.


Pull off sensor tube (black rubber).
The two electrical fittings have locking tabs on the sides. Use a small device (screw driver) to unlock tabs and then pull each electrical connection off.
The fuel line quick disconnect (QD) has a metal push tab on the side. Push it in and the QD will release. Both the male and female side of the QD have flow shut-off valves so fuel will not flow out.
Be very careful of the QD since the OEM version is plastic and can be brittle. Now all connections have been severed you can pull the tank up and out.
Re-install in reverse.
Of course it is your decision but there are a few while Im at its that can be taken care of while the tank is out.



These can be but are not limited to the following:
Replacement of the OEM plastic QD with a metal one. See fuel QD replacement (see separate DYI in HOW).
Charcoal Canister by-pass (see separate DYI in HOW).
Throttle stop motor(stepper motor) repositioning (see separate DYI in HOW).
Booster Plug (engine/fuel management black box) (see separate DYI in HOW).

I hope all this was helpful.
KBMWRS (Mike)
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post #5 of 5 Old Nov 25th, 2013, 3:01 pm
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Re: gas tank removal

2006 BMW K1200 GT Fuel Tank Quick Disconnects

The following is my attempt at DYI for varying updates/maintenance.
Remove the Battery (see separate DYI in HOW).
Remove side fairings (plastics) (see separate DYI in HOW).
Remove the Fuel Tank (see separate DYI in HOW).

Parts required:
Chromed brass Quick Disconnects: Beemerboneyard.com, Item# BBcpcqkdisconK12S, $39.95
http://www.beemerboneyard.com/cpcqkdisconk12s.html
Fuel Pump flange repair clamp: Beemerboneyard.com, Item# BBRK12FUELPMPCLMP, $34.95
http://www.beemerboneyard.com/rk12fuelpmpclmp.html

The replacement of the OEM fuel Quick Disconnects is advised due to the fact that BMW had these parts made of plastic which because of their location can become brittle, crack and leak. This directly over a hot engine isnt good. The replacement of the QDs (male and female) with metal aftermarket ones is highly recommended.

Also recommended is the addition of the flange collar clamp. The flange is the female part of the fuel tank itself where the female QD is installed. This area tends to crack around the flange which may create a leak around the QDs threads. BMWs fix is a whole new fuel tank that has a updated flange with metal imbedded. The repair clamp noted will fix the problem without the cost of a new tank.

On to the replacement.
With the tank in a comfortable location (sans fuel below the QD location) remove the plastic OEM female QD. Use of a or 19mm open end wrench is advised. The OEM QD looks to be a one piece as the tank itself. It is not. It is on there tight though so be careful. As be warned that the flange is also raised and not to try to move itit IS part of the tank.





Notice in the pic above that my tank fuel pump flange DID have a crack in it. I did not have a leak but Im guessing it was only a matter of time.
New QD (female, tank)photo courtesy of Grifscoots


Advised to play with the male/female QDs before installing them to be aware of how they function together. This will make it easier when it comes to connecting them in the limited space available.
Clear off the female threads (tank) of any white residue. Judiciously wrap some Teflon tape on the female QDs threads and insert and tighten into tank flange. I do not know of a torque setting for this so be careful and do not over tighten.


Then if required add some plastic repair to the crack if you have one. Then add the Fuel Pump flange repair clamp. Make sure the clamp is flush with the tank and tighten. Tank QD is complete.



On to the fuel line QD. The OEM is plastic and is difficult nay impossible to remove from the fuel line tube so just cut it off as close as possible the OEM QD. Insert new male QD in fuel line with hose clamp and tighten.



You are now complete with the installation of the fuel line QDs.
Re-installation of the tank is reverse of the fuel tank removal.
Per PeterPeter211:
I HIGHY RECOMMEND that once you reinstall the fuel tank and BEFORE you bolt it down and reattach panels, that you turn the key on to run the fuel pump and check for leaks at the quick disconnect. Then start the motor and recheck for leaks.

Fuel tank back in position. Proceed with bolting the tank back in.


Of course it is your decision but there are a few while Im at its that can be taken care of while the tank is out.
These can be but are not limited to the following:
Charcoal Canister by-pass (see separate DYI in HOW).
Throttle stop motor(stepper motor) repositioning (see separate DYI in HOW).
Booster Plug (engine/fuel management black box) (see separate DYI in HOW).

I hope all this was helpful.
KBMWRS (Mike)
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