Clutch and Brake Fluid Change... - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 9 Old Feb 19th, 2010, 10:45 pm Thread Starter
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Smile Clutch and Brake Fluid Change...

I own a 2007 K1200GT and probably need to change my clutch and brake fluids. Has anyone done this yet and know where a good write-up is? Thanks in advance for any help!

Jack Homesley
Cornelius, NC USA
'06 Goldwing - "The Black Pearl"
Too many others to list...


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post #2 of 9 Old Feb 20th, 2010, 11:43 am
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Re: Clutch and Brake Fluid Change...

I just had the dealer do mine the last time it was in for other service. It wasn't all that expensive, as it's a pretty quick job.

The good news is that there's no power ABS pump like the on the LTs and the '06 GTs. Just one front and one rear wheel circuit. There's still an ABS module (obviously), but that shouldn't really affect anything unless you manage to over-bleed it and let air into the system.

Ken
Pacific NorthWet
'13 Dark Graphite Metallic K16GTLD, 24K miles
'09 Magnesium Beige Metallic K13GT, 63K miles
'03 Anthracite Metallic K12LTC, 66K miles
'02 Mauve Metallic K12LTC, 106K miles and sold
BMWLT#143, IBA# 366, MOA# 111996, SCMA# 24032


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post #3 of 9 Old Feb 21st, 2010, 3:02 pm
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Re: Clutch and Brake Fluid Change...

If the clutch fluid is the mineral oil type - no need to change as it is not hydroscopic.

2009 KGT 1300 Apple Red (mine)
2008 R1200RT Biarritz Blue (sold)
2005 R1200ST Piedmont Red/Light Magnesium (hers)
2003 Goldwing Black (formerly ours and sold)
1999 Valkyrie Tourer Black (sold)


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post #4 of 9 Old Mar 25th, 2010, 5:07 am
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Re: Clutch and Brake Fluid Change...

I posted this note on the k-bikes.com site yesterday morning with no response so far. I just found your post here.

http://www.k-bikes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21278

The procedure in the RepRom looks simple and straightforward. The only catch is the requirement for an expensive BMW piston spreader tool ($300 plus 2 x $18 = ouch!). I am hoping that there are less expensive third party alternatives.
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post #5 of 9 Old Mar 27th, 2010, 5:37 am
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Re: Clutch and Brake Fluid Change...

Quote:
Originally Posted by XMagnaRider
I posted this note on the k-bikes.com site yesterday morning with no response so far. I just found your post here.

http://www.k-bikes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21278

The procedure in the RepRom looks simple and straightforward. The only catch is the requirement for an expensive BMW piston spreader tool ($300 plus 2 x $18 = ouch!). I am hoping that there are less expensive third party alternatives.
I use fiberglass door shims to spread the pistons. Don't waste your money on the BMW tool.
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post #6 of 9 Old Mar 27th, 2010, 6:24 am
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Re: Clutch and Brake Fluid Change...

The RepRom says to apply grease LIGHTLY! to the backing plate. (Never Seez compound, Protective grease, 83 23 9 407 830)

It says, "Lubricating the backing plate can allow grease to make its way onto the friction pad and the brake disc.Take care to lubricate only the rear and the trailing end face of the backing plate."

What is the "backing plate"?
What does "rear and trailing end face" mean?
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post #7 of 9 Old Mar 27th, 2010, 11:17 am
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Re: Clutch and Brake Fluid Change...

Another Question: Are there differences between DOT4 brake fluids?

In other words, should I buy DOT4 brake fluid at the BMW dealer or should I buy it at the local auto parts store?
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post #8 of 9 Old Mar 27th, 2010, 1:03 pm
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Re: Clutch and Brake Fluid Change...

The backing plate is the large metal piece that the brake pad material is bonded to. So it's the part that the caliper pistons push against when braking.

The end face is the edge of the brake pad backing plate that rests against the caliper so the pads don't simply slide out of place. The trailing edge is where the rotor leaves the caliper, rather than enters.

When looking at the rear wheel from the left side of the bike, the rotor spins counter-clockwise and the caliper sits down below, so the trailing edge is towards the rear of the bike.

When looking at the front wheel from the left side, the rotor also spins counter-clockwise but the caliper sits up high and rearward so the trailing edge is towards the top/front of the bike. And from the right front side, the trailing edge is also top/front of the caliper.

But I have to say that I've never added grease of any sort to the back of my brake pads, and never had any problems.


Ken
Pacific NorthWet
'13 Dark Graphite Metallic K16GTLD, 24K miles
'09 Magnesium Beige Metallic K13GT, 63K miles
'03 Anthracite Metallic K12LTC, 66K miles
'02 Mauve Metallic K12LTC, 106K miles and sold
BMWLT#143, IBA# 366, MOA# 111996, SCMA# 24032


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Some people see the gas tank as half empty. Some see it as half full. All I care is that I know where the next tankful is coming from...
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post #9 of 9 Old Mar 27th, 2010, 1:12 pm
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Re: Clutch and Brake Fluid Change...

Quote:
Originally Posted by XMagnaRider
Another Question: Are there differences between DOT4 brake fluids?
DOT 4 is a Standard designation denoting the makeup of chemicals in polyethylene glycol-based brake fluids that sets the boiling point and other properties. There is no "premium" DOT 4, as anything carrying the DOT 4 designation has to meet a minimum set of standards.

Just don't mix it with DOT 5, as that is a silicone-based fluid and is not compatible with DOT 4 systems.

And as you already know, the clutch fluid on the Slant/4 bikes is a special Mineral Oil blend, which is not hygroscopic (doesn't easily absorb water from the atmosphere) and therefore doesn't need to be changed nearly as often.

Ken
Pacific NorthWet
'13 Dark Graphite Metallic K16GTLD, 24K miles
'09 Magnesium Beige Metallic K13GT, 63K miles
'03 Anthracite Metallic K12LTC, 66K miles
'02 Mauve Metallic K12LTC, 106K miles and sold
BMWLT#143, IBA# 366, MOA# 111996, SCMA# 24032


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Some people see the gas tank as half empty. Some see it as half full. All I care is that I know where the next tankful is coming from...
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