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post #1 of 33 Old Sep 4th, 2007, 4:00 pm Thread Starter
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Any K1200GT final drive failures

Evidently some RT's have recently had some final drive failures. Have GT's been experiencing any FD failure?
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post #2 of 33 Old Sep 4th, 2007, 4:02 pm
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Only one that we're aware of and it wasn't flushed at the 600 mile service.



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post #3 of 33 Old Sep 4th, 2007, 4:52 pm
 
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Originally Posted by grifscoots
Only one that we're aware of and it wasn't flushed at the 600 mile service.
What a JACKASS!!!
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post #4 of 33 Old Sep 4th, 2007, 5:50 pm
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That's asshat to you, mister!



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post #5 of 33 Old Sep 4th, 2007, 6:18 pm
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Originally Posted by messenger13
What a JACKASS!!!

Yea, I know...I can't believe he didn't change it and THEN took off on some "Epic Ride" across the US!!!!

Oh...I'm sorry, he meant YOU didn't he Joe?!!!!!!!

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post #6 of 33 Old Sep 4th, 2007, 6:37 pm Thread Starter
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Here's the other question. Do the GT and RT share the same FD componants?
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post #7 of 33 Old Sep 4th, 2007, 7:02 pm
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Originally Posted by cccpastorjack
Yea, I know...I can't believe he didn't change it and THEN took off on some "Epic Ride" across the US!!!!

Oh...I'm sorry, he meant YOU didn't he Joe?!!!!!!!
Speaking of changing it and riding off, I ordered some 65% moly paste. 27 bones!! Good grief, and here I thought dielectric grease was expensive. This stuff better taste good.

I'm gonna change mine again. Oil (egads, not an oil thread!) breaks down and shears. This lifetime thang just don't cut with this homey.



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post #8 of 33 Old Sep 4th, 2007, 7:14 pm
 
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For this thread's sake...
To answer this question to the fullest of my ability, Yes, there have been a few GT's that have had failed rear drives. I'm the "jackass" that listened to BMW when they said that their '06 redesigned (sealed) drive was a lifetime, maintenance-free unit. Then they later released a service bulletin stating that the fluid should be changed at 600 miles. I think I was already passed the 6K mark at that point, so I just said "Screw it!" and I took my chances. At just under 19K, she let go in Lovelock, NV. (A lovely little burg. ) Replaced under warranty the next day with a unit that was barely used (3,800 miles). It was serviced at 600 miles, and again just before installing it on my bike.


Quote:
Originally Posted by cccpastorjack
Yea, I know...I can't believe he didn't change it and THEN took off on some "Epic Ride" across the US!!!!

Oh...I'm sorry, he meant YOU didn't he Joe?!!!!!!!
Yessir...lil ol' me! But I don't know about this "Epic Ride" kaywrap. I just went for a little scoot. Jeez!!!


Quote:
Originally Posted by eng943
Here's the other question. Do the GT and RT share the same FD componants?
Don't know if they're interchangeable...so to speak. All that I can tell you is that, to the best of my knowledge BMW doesn't have a model that's impervious to this problem. They all break! The LT, GT, RT, GS, S, and R models. All of them!

I've simply decided that I like my GT as a whole more than I dislike BMW's Achilles Heel. Besides . . . doesn't it make riding a BMW even more exciting?!?!
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post #9 of 33 Old Sep 4th, 2007, 7:28 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grifscoots
Speaking of changing it and riding off, I ordered some 65% moly paste. 27 bones!! Good grief, and here I thought dielectric grease was expensive. This stuff better taste good.

I'm gonna change mine again. Oil (egads, not an oil thread!) breaks down and shears. This lifetime thang just don't cut with this homey.

Hey Grif,

Rather than removing the whole final drive (a lot of work) or even lifting the front end so the oil will drain...how about using a pump to get the old oil out??? That's what I'm gonna try!

Jack Homesley
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post #10 of 33 Old Sep 4th, 2007, 7:49 pm Thread Starter
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Glad I listened to my dealer and did the final drive oil change at the 600 mile service

Frankly, I wouldn't be too worried. If it breaks it breaks, but I was curious in case I do end up trading my RT.
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post #11 of 33 Old Sep 4th, 2007, 7:55 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eng943
Here's the other question. Do the GT and RT share the same FD componants?
They are similar, but mirror images of one anoher. The K-bike drives are on the left and the R-bikes are on the right.

These newer drives are failing, but so far not at a rate as high as early LTs.

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post #12 of 33 Old Sep 4th, 2007, 8:42 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cccpastorjack
Hey Grif,

Rather than removing the whole final drive (a lot of work) or even lifting the front end so the oil will drain...how about using a pump to get the old oil out??? That's what I'm gonna try!
Getting the siphon tube in and getting all the old lube out may be a prob. It's not that hard to drop the drive, not like, let's say, replacing the clutch on an LT Bet I can do it in an hour.... the first time.



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post #13 of 33 Old Sep 4th, 2007, 9:04 pm
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Well,

I'm gonna see if I can siphon mine. I have a friend who is bringing me some small diameter tubing. I'll let you know how it works. Might be better for changing it more often.

Jack Homesley
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post #14 of 33 Old Sep 4th, 2007, 9:06 pm
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by messenger13
Yes, there have been a few GT's that have had failed rear drives. I'm the "jackass" that listened to BMW when they said that their '06 redesigned (sealed) drive was a lifetime, maintenance-free unit. Then they later released a service bulletin stating that the fluid should be changed at 600 miles. I think I was already passed the 6K mark at that point, so I just said "Screw it!"
Almost my experience exactly. Not changed at 600 because I was told it was sealed for life. Another dealer told me no need to change it at my 6000 mile service. Too late anyway as the damage probably had already started! Noticed a little play at 14000 miles. BMW replaced my final drive at 18000 because of excessive play, not a complete failure. Changed the FD oil in the new FD several weeks ago. Easy job on a GT!

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post #15 of 33 Old Sep 4th, 2007, 10:14 pm
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(text omitted) not like, let's say, replacing the clutch on an LT Bet I can do it in an hour.... the first time.
Since the kindly Pastor is too nice. . . and I'm not . . . You AssHat!

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post #16 of 33 Old Sep 5th, 2007, 7:19 am
 
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The solution to final drive problems.

One of the first motorcycles designed and built by Glen Curtis used this system.

Simple
Few moving parts.
Now being used in all HD bikes and the new F800 series

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post #17 of 33 Old Sep 5th, 2007, 7:29 am
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Originally Posted by deputy5211
Since the kindly Pastor is too nice. . . and I'm not . . . You AssHat!
Well! I strongly reassemble that remark!



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post #18 of 33 Old Sep 5th, 2007, 7:31 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeniorChief
The solution to final drive problems.

One of the first motorcycles designed and built by Glen Curtis used this system.

Simple
Few moving parts.
Now being used in all HD bikes and the new F800 series
Tis a beauty thang, but the belt slips in the rain. You can eat the final drive in emergencies.



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post #19 of 33 Old Sep 5th, 2007, 9:35 am
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeniorChief
The solution to final drive problems.

One of the first motorcycles designed and built by Glen Curtis used this system.

Simple
Few moving parts.
Now being used in all HD bikes and the new F800 series
Ya, i have two budd's that have lost the rear belt, both from a rock getting into the teeth of the rear sprocket and splitting the belt.....new belt for the Vic $249.00 .....
(though i believe there are some aftermarket belts cheaper) Still down, out of service and out some time and cash....and you take your chances on gravel roads.
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post #20 of 33 Old Sep 6th, 2007, 7:57 pm
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Hey...I changed my rear drive oil this evening without removing the final drive or lifting the front of the bike. I used a very large syringe and small plastic tubing. Had it emptied in less than 5 mintues and the great part was that in that time I was able to pump a little back in and sucked it back out...several times and removed all crud. Very good flush! Then used the syringe to fill it to the proper level with clean new gear oil!!!

Job done right and finished in less than 45 minutes!!!!!

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post #21 of 33 Old Sep 6th, 2007, 9:43 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cccpastorjack
Hey...I changed my rear drive oil this evening without removing the final drive or lifting the front of the bike. I used a very large syringe and small plastic tubing. Had it emptied in less than 5 mintues and the great part was that in that time I was able to pump a little back in and sucked it back out...several times and removed all crud. Very good flush! Then used the syringe to fill it to the proper level with clean new gear oil!!!

Job done right and finished in less than 45 minutes!!!!!
Good onya! Now that you've plowed new territory, I think I'll try to use my power bleeder.

BTW, how did the fluid look? Mileage on gear earl, etc.??



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post #22 of 33 Old Sep 6th, 2007, 9:47 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grifscoots
Good onya! Now that you've plowed new territory, I think I'll try to use my power bleeder.

BTW, how did the fluid look? Mileage on gear earl, etc.??

Well, there was a grayish, metallic sheen to the oil, but it wasn't overly dirty for having about 4k on it w/o a change. The bike had the 600 mile service, but I don't believe they changed the gear oil.

I'm telling ya...the syringe worked REAL well. If you want one, let me know and I'll try to get one and the small diameter tubing and send it to you.

Jack Homesley
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post #23 of 33 Old Sep 7th, 2007, 7:11 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cccpastorjack
Well, there was a grayish, metallic sheen to the oil, but it wasn't overly dirty for having about 4k on it w/o a change. The bike had the 600 mile service, but I don't believe they changed the gear oil.

I'm telling ya...the syringe worked REAL well. If you want one, let me know and I'll try to get one and the small diameter tubing and send it to you.
I think I'll try it both ways and measure the amount of fluid. The first time, by the book (it will be at the 15k oil change) the second time using your method at 20k. Prolly won't get a real good benchmark on the look of the gear oil as we all know it gets better with mileage.

Thanks for the offer on the syringe thang, have one.... and a Mighty Vac and a Power Bleeder.

BTW, kind of overshot the 12k service and LoneStar is working WAYYYY out. I'm already at 13, my appointment is Sept. 27. Not real concerned and I'm thinking about blowing it off till the 18k. The GS-911 now talks to the GT and mine will be here in a few days!



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post #24 of 33 Old Sep 7th, 2007, 7:51 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grifscoots
I think I'll try it both ways and measure the amount of fluid. The first time, by the book (it will be at the 15k oil change) the second time using your method at 20k. Prolly won't get a real good benchmark on the look of the gear oil as we all know it gets better with mileage.

Thanks for the offer on the syringe thang, have one.... and a Mighty Vac and a Power Bleeder.

BTW, kind of overshot the 12k service and LoneStar is working WAYYYY out. I'm already at 13, my appointment is Sept. 27. Not real concerned and I'm thinking about blowing it off till the 18k. The GS-911 now talks to the GT and mine will be here in a few days!

Ahh..you lucky dog! What kind of oil are you going with in the Final Drive? I tried Lucas Oil Heavy Duty 80-90 weight dino - has "climbing" additives and is rated GL-5 and 6.

By the way, I was able to make sure I got all the old out, I could move the tubing around and "slurp" the bottom of the drive very clean. But, the tubing I had was very small diameter and you won't be able to get anything large in there...very tight tolerances. Just for good measure I lubed the hose up good with oil BEFORE I inserted it. Well, heck...I didn't want it to get stuck!

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post #25 of 33 Old Sep 7th, 2007, 9:58 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cccpastorjack
Ahh..you lucky dog! What kind of oil are you going with in the Final Drive?
Ahhh, very shneaky. Trying to lure me into an oil thread



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post #26 of 33 Old Sep 7th, 2007, 12:19 pm
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Originally Posted by grifscoots
Ahhh, very shneaky. Trying to lure me into an oil thread


Nope...just wondering. Some of us have no problem with oil threads!

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post #27 of 33 Old Sep 7th, 2007, 2:01 pm
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Originally Posted by cccpastorjack
Nope...just wondering. Some of us have no problem with oil threads!
Give it another 10 years and get back to me



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post #28 of 33 Old Sep 7th, 2007, 3:51 pm
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cccpastorjack
What kind of oil are you going with in the Final Drive? I tried Lucas Oil Heavy Duty 80-90 weight dino - has "climbing" additives and is rated GL-5 and 6.
I used BMW 75-140 Super Synthetic Gear Oil as per my local dealer's recommendation. BMW replaced my first Final Drive (lubed for life) under warranty. Thought it best to use BMW products so they have no basis to reject a warranty claim in the future.
I hope yours doesn't climb out.

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post #29 of 33 Old Sep 7th, 2007, 10:15 pm
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Just for informations sake:

When I changed the Final Drive Oil using the syringe, I removed the drain plug, sucked out the fluid and then through the same drain hole, used the syringe and just filled it til it ran out.

THEN I read Dave Dragon's instructions and saw that he filled his through the speedo sensor hole and specifically said to place only 220 ml of gear oil into the unit. OH CRAP...I just filled it til it ran out of the drain hole and never even opened the speedo sensor hole.

So....back to the shop. I used the syringe and drained it again through the drain hole, measuring how much I extracted. EXACTLY 220 ml !!!!! I threw that oil away and measured out 220ml into a measuring cup...just as I finished installing the last bit of that oil, it began to come out of the drain hole. WALA!!!! No need to use the speedo sensor hole...next time, I'll just fill it til it runs out and I'm good to go!

Jack Homesley
Cornelius, NC USA
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post #30 of 33 Old Sep 7th, 2007, 10:56 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cccpastorjack
Just for informations sake:

When I changed the Final Drive Oil using the syringe, I removed the drain plug, sucked out the fluid and then through the same drain hole, used the syringe and just filled it til it ran out.

THEN I read Dave Dragon's instructions and saw that he filled his through the speedo sensor hole and specifically said to place only 220 ml of gear oil into the unit. OH CRAP...I just filled it til it ran out of the drain hole and never even opened the speedo sensor hole.

So....back to the shop. I used the syringe and drained it again through the drain hole, measuring how much I extracted. EXACTLY 220 ml !!!!! I threw that oil away and measured out 220ml into a measuring cup...just as I finished installing the last bit of that oil, it began to come out of the drain hole. WALA!!!! No need to use the speedo sensor hole...next time, I'll just fill it til it runs out and I'm good to go!
Awsome! Your next assignment is to adjust the valves (we'll get there)



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post #31 of 33 Old Sep 8th, 2007, 9:31 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grifscoots
Awsome! Your next assignment is to adjust the valves (we'll get there)

No problem... when it comes time to do it..I'll be sure to do so. BTW, to maintain my warranty, do I have to have the major services completed by a BMW shop?

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post #32 of 33 Old Sep 8th, 2007, 9:59 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cccpastorjack
No problem... when it comes time to do it..I'll be sure to do so. BTW, to maintain my warranty, do I have to have the major services completed by a BMW shop?
It's just like the LT, save your receipts from purchases and keep a log. The Magnusom-Fog Act (or whatever) covers us on that.



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post #33 of 33 Old Oct 24th, 2007, 1:30 pm
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Unhappy GT Rear

Friend who lost his R.D. a few months ago, well it failed again a couple weeks ago. not very many miles on bike since first repair, which was not a complete rear, just parts. this time they replaced the entire rear unit...set-up at the factory...

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