Front wheel removal - HOT Tip - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 16 Old Sep 9th, 2006, 8:08 pm Thread Starter
 
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Lightbulb Front wheel removal - HOT Tip

Unlike the K1200LT, the GT presents what may be a new challenge to you...or your tool collection. In order to remove the front axle of your new GT, you'll need a 22mm Allen wrench, or a 22mm driver socket. Those are expensive, and can be hard to find. But what's worse is that you have to spend all that money for a one-purpose tool!

Well I DON'T THINK SO! . . . There's a better, cheaper way to get the job done. And chances are you already have the tool in your tool box.

Go get your 1/2" drive, 13/16" Spark Plug Socket. Mine's made by Easco, but I'm pretty sure that the Craftsman socket will work just the same . . . like THIS ONE on eBay. You see the bottom of that socket...well guess where that fits? Tada! Right inside the GT's axle. An extension inside of that, and then your ratchet, and you're GOLDEN!

Hope this helps...
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post #2 of 16 Old Jan 18th, 2008, 7:28 pm
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Kewl! Thanks everybody. I have the tool on order now. I really appreciate you guys. You know I have an addiction to Snap On Tools, so you probably just saved me about $75. Hmmm....that's just about enough to buy that balancer tool!

Jack Homesley
Cornelius, NC USA
'06 Goldwing - "The Black Pearl"
Too many others to list...


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post #3 of 16 Old Jan 19th, 2008, 12:27 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveDragon
Same front wheel axel as the R1200GS-A
Don't forget to torque it back down.
I got an axle tool from the Tucker Rocky catalog for less than 20 bucks. Fits a 1/2" drive. It will work on four different size axles including the R12GS...


Edit:Think it's made by Motion Pro.

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post #4 of 16 Old Jan 19th, 2008, 1:01 am
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So what is the Torque needed for the front axle?
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post #5 of 16 Old Jan 19th, 2008, 10:40 am Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbmwgt
So what is the Torque needed for the front axle?
It's probably not want you want to hear but...I don't use a torque wrench for certain things, and a front axle bolt is one of them. The reason? ... The axle bolt has pinch bolts on each side. All I do is reinstall the axle, just kiinda snug it down (i.e. "not too tight"), then tighten the pinch bolts. Why over-complicate things?

But I do realize there is some peace-of-mind that comes from using the proper torque values. I don't mean to belittle your question.
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post #6 of 16 Old Jan 19th, 2008, 11:22 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by messenger13
It's probably not want you want to hear but...I don't use a torque wrench for certain things, and a front axle bolt is one of them. The reason? ... The axle bolt has pinch bolts on each side. All I do is reinstall the axle, just kiinda snug it down (i.e. "not too tight"), then tighten the pinch bolts. Why over-complicate things?

But I do realize there is some peace-of-mind that comes from using the proper torque values. I don't mean to belittle your question.
I do the same thing. Hand tight is good enough for me.

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post #7 of 16 Old Jan 19th, 2008, 2:40 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbmwgt
So what is the Torque needed for the front axle?
From My Shop Manual:

Tightening torques:
Quick-release axle in threaded bush (This is the axle)
M24 x 1.5
50 Nm or 37 ft lbs


Tightening torques:
Clamping screw for quick-release axle in wheel carrier
M8 x 30
19 Nm or 14 ft lbs or 168 in lbs

Jack Homesley
Cornelius, NC USA
'06 Goldwing - "The Black Pearl"
Too many others to list...


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post #8 of 16 Old Jan 19th, 2008, 4:56 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted Shred
I do the same thing. Hand tight is good enough for me.
Good thing you're a sales guy and not a mechanic.

I have a dial torque wrench that covers all the fasteners on the GT. It's probably not critical, but it only takes a minute to do the job right.

Ken
Pacific NorthWet
'13 Dark Graphite Metallic K16GTLD, 24K miles
'09 Magnesium Beige Metallic K13GT, 63K miles
'03 Anthracite Metallic K12LTC, 66K miles
'02 Mauve Metallic K12LTC, 106K miles and sold
BMWLT#143, IBA# 366, MOA# 111996, SCMA# 24032


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post #9 of 16 Old Jan 19th, 2008, 5:08 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meese
Good thing you're a sales guy and not a mechanic.

I have a dial torque wrench that covers all the fasteners on the GT. It's probably not critical, but it only takes a minute to do the job right.
So you don't agree with Joe??? I'm shocked

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post #10 of 16 Old Jan 19th, 2008, 8:09 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveDragon
Does this mean I'm going Liberal?
No.......just misguided

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post #11 of 16 Old Jan 19th, 2008, 10:17 pm
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To torque or not to torque - guess it's up to each of us to decide what's best for our own bikes. Just don't tell me how to do mine and I won't tell you how to do yours.

Ken
Pacific NorthWet
'13 Dark Graphite Metallic K16GTLD, 24K miles
'09 Magnesium Beige Metallic K13GT, 63K miles
'03 Anthracite Metallic K12LTC, 66K miles
'02 Mauve Metallic K12LTC, 106K miles and sold
BMWLT#143, IBA# 366, MOA# 111996, SCMA# 24032


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post #12 of 16 Old Jan 19th, 2008, 10:36 pm
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I wonder if the manufacturer might know what's best?

(And you gotta admit, that WAS pretty clever!)

Jack Homesley
Cornelius, NC USA
'06 Goldwing - "The Black Pearl"
Too many others to list...


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post #13 of 16 Old Jan 20th, 2008, 1:07 am Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cccpastorjack
I wonder if the manufacturer might know what's best?

(And you gotta admit, that WAS pretty clever!)
You mean...the ones that engineered these rear drives? I thinks I'll takes my chances!!!


(And you gotta admit, that was even MORE clever!)
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post #14 of 16 Old Jan 20th, 2008, 1:10 am Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted Shred
So you don't agree with Joe??? I'm shocked
Well...Ken wasn't entirely sure if he disagreed with me or not so he gave hoogie a call. The two of them came to the conclusion that I was indeed wrong on all counts yet again. Who'd a thunk?
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post #15 of 16 Old Jan 20th, 2008, 2:39 am
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Not all counts Joe, but you sure do have your moments.

And yeah, credit for the rear drive zing, especially since you speak from personal experience here (even if we did warn you to change the oil before it failed . . .).

Ken
Pacific NorthWet
'13 Dark Graphite Metallic K16GTLD, 24K miles
'09 Magnesium Beige Metallic K13GT, 63K miles
'03 Anthracite Metallic K12LTC, 66K miles
'02 Mauve Metallic K12LTC, 106K miles and sold
BMWLT#143, IBA# 366, MOA# 111996, SCMA# 24032


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post #16 of 16 Old Aug 5th, 2008, 12:34 am
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Re: Front wheel removal - HOT Tip

Quote:
Originally Posted by messenger13
Well I DON'T THINK SO! . . . There's a better, cheaper way to get the job done. And chances are you already have the tool in your tool box.
Great tip! I didn't find the spark plug wrench, but the Napa Auto Parts store around the corner had an 1 1/16" oil sending unit socket that did the trick, only $7. Just shove a 3/8" drive extension in from the back and voila.

Last edited by bonafidebob; Aug 5th, 2008 at 12:57 am.
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