What the ...? Noise sometimes. - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 14 Old Nov 12th, 2007, 2:50 pm Thread Starter
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What the ...? Noise sometimes.

Now that I've comletely re-wired the improperly-installed AtuoCom Pro 7 on my bike, everything works fine with only one more problem to solve.

I have ignition noise (engine speed dependant) on the intercom to the headsets. Only. I realize I have to do some wiring run and grounding checks but can't understand one thing:

If I turn on the radio, the noise goes away. Even if I run the radio volume all the way down! Can anyone explain how this could be without using the word "magic?"

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post #2 of 14 Old Nov 13th, 2007, 10:35 pm Thread Starter
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Totally stumped

Guy and Gals I am totally stumped by this:

I did some investigating to make sure I didn't have any wiring issues. Without disconnecting anything I moved every wire that was added to the bike to different positions and the ignition noise wouldn't go away. But if I turn the radio or, or if (here's the new one) I connect the speaker to the headset lead only on the right channel, then the noise goes away.

As part of my re-wire I added a switch to cut off the rear speakers. As long as the speakers are in circuit, there's no noise. If I take them out, noise.

Magic. That's what it must be.

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post #3 of 14 Old Nov 14th, 2007, 9:30 am
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Welcome to the world of wacky things that ground issues can cause. There is a small $4.00 ground loop isolator from Radio shack (Radio Shack 1:1 isolation transformer (the little green ones cat# 273-1374) spliced into each cord) that you may want to install on your speaker and mike cords. See my post http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29110

Hope it helps
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post #4 of 14 Old Nov 14th, 2007, 9:34 am
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Re your rear speakers switch. Do you interupt the power wire or the ground wire in the off position. Sounds like the ground is getting lost...

Gene
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post #5 of 14 Old Nov 14th, 2007, 9:54 am Thread Starter
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I thought about the Radio Shack transformers, but the AutoCom (near as I can tell) already has transformers in that encapsulated module you use to wire into the speaker leads. I think. That's what it looks like from the outside. I will check your link and give that a try too--I'm envisioning filling the entire tail trunk with isolation transformers and tinfoil before I'm done.

I interrupted the "hot" (+?) wire to the speakers. I followed the AutoCom instructions on which wire to cut. The other AutoCom wire ties to the ground (-?) wire of the speaker.

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post #6 of 14 Old Dec 5th, 2007, 8:06 pm
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Cool Wired To Trunk Or Bike/Radio Side

This may not be your problem, but if you tied into the rear connector did you tap into the trunk side or bike/radio side of the connector? If you tied into the bike/radio side of the connector and followed the color code then your will not have stereo or complete channel separation and possible noise through the headset (speakers will work fine). You have to follow the color code on the trunk side of the connector. Seems there are some crossover of colors from the bike side to the trunk side.

Joe
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post #7 of 14 Old Dec 6th, 2007, 9:34 am Thread Starter
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I tied into the bike side. Not that I wanted to, but the previous owner had already messed with those wires so I just re-worked what he did.

I'm not sure what you mean about the color code changing--If I llook at the wire's position in the connectors, the color code seems to be the same from one to the other.

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post #8 of 14 Old Dec 6th, 2007, 1:57 pm
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Look At This Drawing From Autocom

As the drawing shows the yellow, yellow/blue and blue/mauve wires are on different pins bike side vs trunk side. I also thought that the colors were the same on both bike side and trunk side and were just a straight connection. I can only say when I wired to the trunk side I had no noise and complete stereo separation. When I wired on the bike side I had noise and lack of left/right channel control. I used part #67 switched stereo music lead.
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post #9 of 14 Old Dec 6th, 2007, 6:59 pm
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I do not believe the Autocom has any audio isolators built in. They have always sold isolators separately. Back when the Pro 7 was being sold Part 56, Part 57 and Part 58 were all audio isolators for GPS, Radar and Cell Phone integration. I have had my new Active-Plus apart to modify it and there is nothing on the circuit board that looks remotely like an audio transformer. Goto the Autocom site product page, here, and search for the word "isolated". There are seven different isolation adapters that they are currently selling.

Audio isolators do not solve every audio noise problem but it is a good place to start.


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Last edited by jwd98056; Dec 6th, 2007 at 7:20 pm.
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post #10 of 14 Old Dec 21st, 2007, 2:39 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rovero
As the drawing shows the yellow, yellow/blue and blue/mauve wires are on different pins bike side vs trunk side. I also thought that the colors were the same on both bike side and trunk side and were just a straight connection. I can only say when I wired to the trunk side I had no noise and complete stereo separation. When I wired on the bike side I had noise and lack of left/right channel control. I used part #67 switched stereo music lead.
Hi, rovero. (Sorry for the slow response--been travelling.)
The wires aren't on different pins. The drawing is showing them with respect to the side of the connector. In other words, the wire that is to the immediate right of the green dot from the back of the left hand (bike) side is located to the right of the green dot from the back of the right hand (trunk) side. But it's the same color wire.

I verified this on my bike. The (for example) blue/mauve wire that goes to a particular pin flows through the connector and stays the same color on the other side.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jwd98056
I do not believe the Autocom has any audio isolators built in. They have always sold isolators separately. Back when the Pro 7 was being sold Part 56, Part 57 and Part 58 were all audio isolators for GPS, Radar and Cell Phone integration. I have had my new Active-Plus apart to modify it and there is nothing on the circuit board that looks remotely like an audio transformer. Goto the Autocom site product page, here, and search for the word "isolated". There are seven different isolation adapters that they are currently selling.
See, the part that plugs into the Pro7 (part 66, now 1319) and is wired to the speaker leads looked to me like it may have had isolating transformers on it. But since the circuit boards are encapsulated, I really don't know. I looked at their site, but don't see something that seems to be intended to work with my bike which already has the part 66 (now part number 1319) onto it. And this part even says that it "protects the system from noise."

However, the thing that still puzzles me is why the noise goes away if the speakers are in the circuit even with the radio off!

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Last edited by Lare; Dec 21st, 2007 at 2:46 pm.
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post #11 of 14 Old Dec 28th, 2007, 9:20 am
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Ground loops suck

Lare--
Do you have any other devices connected to the Autocom that are powered from the bike? What you describe is indeed a ground loop, and it is alternator whine you are hearing, not ignition noise. Autocom seems really susceptible to this on BMW, I had trouble with both my RT and the LT when connecting other devices to the Autocom (I have Ham radios and GPS attached). These other devices need to be ground isolated if they get their power from the bike. The Radio Shack little transformers will isolate, but be aware they are not intended for music and have a limited audio bandwidth. They work fine for 2-way radios though. If you need to isolate an iPod or other music device, you need a transformer designed for that (which Radio Shack also sells).

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post #12 of 14 Old Dec 29th, 2007, 6:04 pm
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I'm no electrical genius but this worked on my GS Baehr unit. Reduced background buzz 90%.
Isolated Power Supply N-IP12A2
www.davidnavone.com

The test is to power the component with a seperate battery and if noise goes away, Isolator should help.

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post #13 of 14 Old Dec 29th, 2007, 11:31 pm
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$165.00 ..... OUCH !!

I need one for my ICOM 2 way radio that has NEVER worked with the battery eliminator. Whines like a banchee, so I run it off a High Capicity remote battery.

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post #14 of 14 Old Dec 30th, 2007, 1:00 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motorhead
$165.00 ..... OUCH !!
Yes, isolating the power connection would have the same effect, but $165 is really pricey!

Quote:
I need one for my ICOM 2 way radio that has NEVER worked with the battery eliminator. Whines like a banchee, so I run it off a High Capicity remote battery.
Same issue, you need to isolate the grounds: mic audio, speaker audio and the Push to Talk circuit. Easily done with a few cheap parts and a soldering iron if you have the skills. The attached PDF shows how I did it. The transformers are the cheap ones from Radio Shack, the opto-isolater is a common part (I have several in my junk box) and can be found at any electronic supply store. I put it all in a small metal box with the appropriate matching connectors to the Autocom cable so that it goes inline to the radio.
I suppose I should take a picture of it one of these days.

-Scurrie
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