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post #1 of 26 Old Jul 11th, 2007, 8:10 pm Thread Starter
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Ham gear install, getting closer

It's been slow progress, but I am getting closer. I have the antenna mounted, and now the radio control head mounted. I also mounted the GPS and wired it to where the radio will be mounted (the GPS will share the radio audio path to the Autocom for turn by turn instructions, the radio has a external audio input for iPod, etc). Still need to mount the radio, run the antenna, power and Autocom cables, and also the remote control head cable. This is actually on hold for the moment, since Yaesu has still not released the CT-M11 option cable (headset/intercom connection) in the US yet, and I need that to connect to the Autocom. Grrrr! Anyway, thought folks might want to see the progress. The equipment is as follows:
Autocom
Garmin 2720
Yaesu FTM-10R
Diamond NR-77

-Scurrie, NS7C
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post #2 of 26 Old Jul 18th, 2007, 6:36 am
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Looks Nice!

Did you have to buy the whole CB antenna kit to get the right-side bracket, or did you find another way? The kit is $180!

Pete, NI9N
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post #3 of 26 Old Jul 18th, 2007, 8:42 am
 
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Very nice job so far. I don't have an LT yet but it is on my short list of items. I am very interested in the total parts list that will be required for this type of install.

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post #4 of 26 Old Jul 19th, 2007, 2:08 pm Thread Starter
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Antenna Parts

Quote:
Originally Posted by NI9N
Did you have to buy the whole CB antenna kit to get the right-side bracket, or did you find another way? The kit is $180!

Pete, NI9N
I just used the CB mount, which actually requires several part numbers:
65212337377 Aerial FO CB, qty 1
07119920067 7-Fillister Head, qty 2
65212305992 Cable Holder, qty 1
65212305959 Screw M3x4, qty 4
65212305993 Cover-Antenna, qty 1
About $150 worth of parts. You can see how I assembled it here:
http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8339

Not the cheapest route, but I wanted it to look stock.

-Scurrie
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post #5 of 26 Old Jul 19th, 2007, 6:22 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by used2jeep
Very nice job so far. I don't have an LT yet but it is on my short list of items. I am very interested in the total parts list that will be required for this type of install.

Now where is that thread "subscribe" button???
Yes, I will document all that when I am finished. Only problem is I will then know how much I spent!
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post #6 of 26 Old Jul 19th, 2007, 9:14 pm
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I found this info when I Googled your radio. I'm guessing you have the main part of the unit stashed. Where, may I ask?

"Industry 1st - Waterproof/Dustproof* detachable Front Operation Panel to Support All-Weather Outdoor Activity. A high quality 1.1 inch/28 mm speaker is built into the FTM-10R/E detachable front panel; you can operate it like an HT! The microphone and PTT button are built into the front panel. Detach the front panel with one-touch release when transmitting! The detachable front panel may be separated from the main chassis, and attached to a flat metal surface with the magnetic mounting bracket. Incredibly versatile vehicle mounting options. The detachable Front Control can even be mounted on a motorcycle handlebar using the optional MMB-M11 multi-angle bracket. *Meets the IP57 standard. Waterproof at 3ft (1m) for 30 minutes and protection against dust. *The FTM-10R/E die-cast Main Body chassis section is NOT a waterproof structure"

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post #7 of 26 Old Jul 21st, 2007, 5:31 pm
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PTT Switch

That looks like an Autocom PTT switch. Which one?
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post #8 of 26 Old Jul 29th, 2007, 8:55 am
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Thanks for the parts list!

I've duplicated your antenna installation, with no trouble at all! However, four of the filister head screws are required, not two. Turning the BNC to SO239 adapter into a "mount" was really easy, as was the rest of it.

So far I have a 2-meter transceiver (Kenwood TM-221A bought for a song at the Dayton Hamvention) along with a TinyTrak3Plus from Byonics and a Deluo WAAS GPS receiver to comprise a GPS tracker system. You can see the results at Google APRS Maps
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post #9 of 26 Old Aug 14th, 2007, 1:37 am
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SCHWEEET!! Man, I gotta get going on my install - that looks so good!

By the by - here's a map for NI9N
http://www.findu.com/cgi-bin/find.cgi?call=NI9N-10

Tate

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post #10 of 26 Old Jan 9th, 2008, 2:57 pm Thread Starter
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Done maybe?

Well, this took a lot longer than I thought it would, mostly due to the delay getting the Yaesu CTM-11 optional cable. That put the whole project way down on the to do list. Thanks to some questions from another local Ham who was doing a similar install on his GS, I decided I needed to finish this project so I would have the answers!

I still need to do a good road test of everything, but at this point it all seems to working to my satisfaction.

Instead of a long posting, I created a big Word doc with all my notes and thoughts compiled, then made it a PDF. If you are interested in the final outcome, take a look at the attached.

Now if we could just get some good riding weather....

-Scurrie
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Notes from my GPS and Ham Radio installation.pdf (328.1 KB, 918 views)

2005 LT
ARS NS7C
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post #11 of 26 Old Jan 10th, 2008, 7:25 pm
 
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Nice install. I was having a discussion about this radio on the BMWST forum. I noticed that you are concerned about running this at high power. I was concerned for another reason. Overloading the bikes electronics (i.e. engine management controls etc.). Have you tried it? Also I saw that you are running your through the Autocom system. I was going to try going bluetooth and going with a bluetooth mounted head set in my helmet.

Thought?

Many thanks, in advance for your response.

Randy (KA6TJH)
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post #12 of 26 Old Jan 11th, 2008, 11:36 am Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jackson_wr
Nice install. I was having a discussion about this radio on the BMWST forum. I noticed that you are concerned about running this at high power. I was concerned for another reason. Overloading the bikes electronics (i.e. engine management controls etc.). Have you tried it? Also I saw that you are running your through the Autocom system. I was going to try going bluetooth and going with a bluetooth mounted head set in my helmet.

Thought?

Many thanks, in advance for your response.

Randy (KA6TJH)
Hi Randy,
Good questions. I did the RF power density calculation for this system at high power for both 2M and 70CM. At the riders seat, it is probably right at MPE or just below, and at the pillion it is most certainly over MPE (for a controlled environment, well over for an uncontrolled environment). Low and medium power levels are OK.

As for the power load, at high power the radio draws about 117W. I seem to recall the alternator on the LT is something like 840W, but I have no idea what the various systems on the bike draw. The power sockets are rated at 60W each, so that would suggest that the electrical system can handle at least 120W of additional load. If you start loading those up with heated gear and then run the radio at high power, I suppose you could overload the electrical system, especially if the battery is weak. At low power the radio draws about 28W which should pose no problem for the electrical system, even with additional accessories running.

I have not had a chance yet to do extensive "on the road" testing of this installation (darn rain!). In addition to the power loads, it will be interesting to see if RF causes any problems with the bike engine management computer and brake systems (or for that matter, the entertainment system). I will follow up here when I have done that.

Since I already have the Autocom setup, I did not consider Bluetooth. My biggest concern with BT would be getting the VOX gain set right. There are only 2 settings for VOX gain (high and low) which might not be enough range for the noise levels encountered at various speeds. Of course, you could use the PTT switch on the control head and not use VOX, but that seems rather clumsy. I suppose you could install a PTT switch on the bars and connect it to the mic jack on the back of the radio, as long as that works during BT operation. The owners manual is not real detailed on BT operation.

-Scurrie

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ARS NS7C
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post #13 of 26 Old Jan 13th, 2008, 6:22 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scurrie
I have not had a chance yet to do extensive "on the road" testing of this installation (darn rain!). In addition to the power loads, it will be interesting to see if RF causes any problems with the bike engine management computer and brake systems (or for that matter, the entertainment system). I will follow up here when I have done that.
Hey, the rain stopped! In fact, the sun is out and beautiful blue sky! Must be time for a test ride. So far so good, audio reports were good both directions, even at 3 digit speeds. I also tested high power transmit on both bands and did not observe anything unusual on the bike systems. I forgot to test the auto vol feature, not sure if that will work through the autocom mic or if it uses the mic on the front panel. GPS voice works as expected too, so at this point I would say the installation is looking good. I need more time on the radio to figure out all the features and how well they work in the motorcycle environment. I'll add that update later.

-Scurrie

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post #14 of 26 Old Jan 14th, 2008, 8:06 pm
 
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Glad the test ride went well. BTW is that antenna a NR770HA?
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post #15 of 26 Old Jan 15th, 2008, 12:25 am Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jackson_wr
Glad the test ride went well. BTW is that antenna a NR770HA?
NR770HB actually, I wanted all black.

-Scurrie

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post #16 of 26 Old Jan 15th, 2008, 7:23 am
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Question New Question

Are you going to interface the GPS to the radio for APRS? I am looking to do that but I was looking at using the Kenwood TM-D710A as the interface as it has the built in TNC. I was going to use the serial out from the Garmin SP III for the serial input to the radio.

BTW, I like what you've done for your antenna and plan on implementing (i.e. stealing) the design.

Best 73s.

On His Ride,
Steve
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post #17 of 26 Old Jan 15th, 2008, 10:36 am Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve_R
Are you going to interface the GPS to the radio for APRS? I am looking to do that but I was looking at using the Kenwood TM-D710A as the interface as it has the built in TNC. I was going to use the serial out from the Garmin SP III for the serial input to the radio.
Unfortunately, the 2720 has a USB interface, not a RS232 interface, so it won't be talking to any APRS device. For APRS I just toss the D7A and a little GPS in the top case and let it play. Not the best set up, but it works. This install is just a voice setup, though I suppose it would be easy enough to disconnect the Autocom and plug in a TinyTrak if I didn't have anyone to talk to. The Kenwood D7x radios are the way to go if you want to integrate both voice and APRS.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve_R

BTW, I like what you've done for your antenna and plan on implementing (i.e. stealing) the design.
That's why I posted it! :-)

-Scurrie

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ARS NS7C
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post #18 of 26 Old Mar 27th, 2008, 10:51 am
 
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Re: Ham gear install, getting closer

I'm new to this site, and only came here as I heard your mounting a FTM-10R to your bike....

I ride dirt bikes, and have the whole setup completed.
However, I use a wired helmet kit (as the bluetooth is NOT a road friendly setup) and have great results thus far.

If you care to read on it, or need some info... I'd be happy to help if I can.
Some info - http://www.race-dezert.com/forum/showthread.php?t=41636

Good luck!! And enjoy... it's a GREAT radio!!
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post #19 of 26 Old Aug 5th, 2008, 9:25 am Thread Starter
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Re: Ham gear install, getting closer

A few folks have asked about the Autocom and Yaesu pin-outs on my isolator, questioning the pin numbers. Seems there are more than one way to number DIN connectors, so I made a new drawing showing the connectors and the pin numbers.

-Scott
Attached Files
File Type: pdf BMW Autocom 1.pdf (41.9 KB, 299 views)
File Type: pdf BMW Autocom K1200 v1.pdf (31.7 KB, 253 views)

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post #20 of 26 Old Sep 4th, 2008, 12:58 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Ham gear install, getting closer

I finally got around to recording a brief audio clip of the FTM-10R installation at various speeds. Anyone interested can find the clip at: http://home.comcast.net/~ns7c/Share/...0K1200LT-1.mp3 I'll keep it there for a while. Typical compressed Autocom audio, but it is certainly good enough for radio.

The recording was made by connecting my computer sound card to my base station and using RIP Vinyl to capture the various clips. I then edited them together using Audacity. I did not make any changes other than merging the clips together.

-Scott

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ARS NS7C
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post #21 of 26 Old Sep 4th, 2008, 3:19 pm
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Re: Ham gear install, getting closer

Sounds very good!

Gregg Robinson
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KA7MDM
Vancouver, WA
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post #22 of 26 Old Oct 24th, 2008, 7:08 pm
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Re: Ham gear install, getting closer

I use a FT7800 on my lt. I have the head mounted on a BMR shelf. It has been on my bike for 3 years no problems. It runs through my auto com. I use their push to talk and head phones. I have main body behind my back seat and mounted to the front of the box with velcro, I am using a piece of black plastic,But am going make lixan cover. My antenna is mounted on a plate on the top rack. It all works great. Jim KD6REA
PS I work with a bike club that helps out on charety rides, Check out there webb site MARC
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post #23 of 26 Old Jan 25th, 2009, 11:48 pm
 
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Re: Ham gear install, getting closer

Quote:
Originally Posted by scurrie
A few folks have asked about the Autocom and Yaesu pin-outs on my isolator, questioning the pin numbers. Seems there are more than one way to number DIN connectors, so I made a new drawing showing the connectors and the pin numbers.

-Scott
Scott, let me resurrect this thread and thank you for the all the information and ask a few questions.

I've got a full load Autocomm system on a BMW K-100LT. You've answered the one question I've had about wiring up any bike powered mobile radio--isolation with Radio shack transformers.

I've almost ruled out the Yaesu FTM-10 due to it's clumsy appearing operation at an HRO store. Have you found it be easy to use with the "button" interface? The way I figure to use it would be bike-to-bike on simplex frequencies and having to deal with frequency changes only when we find a simplex freq already in use. So, how easy do you find this kind change (pre-stored "channels) to make and what about ease of volume changes?

One last question have you measured the current drain of the FTM-10 when "off?" It has a memory keep alive that bypasses the power switch. A memory keep alive on the K100LT original equipment radio flattened a battery before I finally pulled the radio.

Thanks, Dave w6de
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post #24 of 26 Old Feb 3rd, 2009, 12:53 am Thread Starter
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Re: Ham gear install, getting closer

Quote:
Originally Posted by v8dave
Scott, let me resurrect this thread and thank you for the all the information and ask a few questions.
Hi Dave,
The FTM-10 has a typical Yaesu UI, in other words, I need the manual or my cheat sheet to do any programming, etc. I have no trouble changing memories or volume while riding, anything else I would pull over to do. You can swap the big knob to be either channel change (default) or volume change, without pushing any other buttons. The buttons are big enough to be used with gloves on, but again, anything other than a quick channel or volume change would take my eyes off the road for too long. The performance of the radio has been very good, overall I am quite satisfied with this set up.

I have not measured the current with it off, but in my application, with the key off there is no power at all to the radio. It does not loose memory, so either it has a CMOS battery or it saves to non-volatile memory.

The only other radio I considered was the Kenwood D700 or D710 (so I could do APRS at the same time), but neither has a weatherproof head and I didn't want to deal with covering the head when the rain starts.

-Scott

2005 LT
ARS NS7C
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post #25 of 26 Old Apr 6th, 2009, 11:17 am
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Re: Done maybe?

Quote:
Originally Posted by scurrie
Well, this took a lot longer than I thought it would, mostly due to the delay getting the Yaesu CTM-11 optional cable. That put the whole project way down on the to do list. Thanks to some questions from another local Ham who was doing a similar install on his GS, I decided I needed to finish this project so I would have the answers!

I still need to do a good road test of everything, but at this point it all seems to working to my satisfaction.

Instead of a long posting, I created a big Word doc with all my notes and thoughts compiled, then made it a PDF. If you are interested in the final outcome, take a look at the attached.

Now if we could just get some good riding weather....

-Scurrie
Great stuff Scurrie. I wanted to ask a couple of questions to make sure I understand a couple of things. I have a GS and currently have my Kenwood 2 meter HT running through my Autocom. I'm pretty happy with it, but have been considering the FT10. Based on reading your description of the install, it looks like its far from a plug and play situation.

If I am reading it right, you have used the CM11 cable to tap into the 5 pin gray plug for the Autocom. Being an "appliance operator" ham, I'm not exactly adept at reading schematics, but it appears there are 2 wires form the CM11 that are not used (number 2 and 3).

Again, if I understand correctly, if I were to get the FT10 and CM11 cable, I would cut into the Autocom gray wire and splice in the 5 wires as indicated in your post. The 2 and 3 wires of the CM11 are not used.

Doing all of that however, will result in a loud and hiss in the audio and over-driven TX. How exactly, would an appliance operator likemyself overcome this?

Thanks and 73 de K4GUN
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post #26 of 26 Old May 13th, 2009, 12:16 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Done maybe?

Quote:
Originally Posted by cliffy109
Great stuff Scurrie. I wanted to ask a couple of questions to make sure I understand a couple of things. I have a GS and currently have my Kenwood 2 meter HT running through my Autocom. I'm pretty happy with it, but have been considering the FT10. Based on reading your description of the install, it looks like its far from a plug and play situation.

If I am reading it right, you have used the CM11 cable to tap into the 5 pin gray plug for the Autocom. Being an "appliance operator" ham, I'm not exactly adept at reading schematics, but it appears there are 2 wires form the CM11 that are not used (number 2 and 3).

Again, if I understand correctly, if I were to get the FT10 and CM11 cable, I would cut into the Autocom gray wire and splice in the 5 wires as indicated in your post. The 2 and 3 wires of the CM11 are not used.

Doing all of that however, will result in a loud and hiss in the audio and over-driven TX. How exactly, would an appliance operator likemyself overcome this?

Thanks and 73 de K4GUN
Hi Steve,
Yeah, it is not really plug and play, you will have to do some interfacing to make it work. I did not cut the Autocom cable, I built a little box that has the same DIN connector as the Autocom cable. A small board inside does the isolation, etc, which then connects to the FTM-10 cable (the CTM-11) via another DIN connector. Do you have an elmer nearby that could duplicate my circuits?

-Scott

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ARS NS7C
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