iWay 500c audio problem - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 12 Old Jan 24th, 2006, 10:14 pm Thread Starter
was
Senior Member
 
was's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Guilford, CT, USA
Posts: 805
iWay 500c audio problem

I just hooked up my second Lowrance iWay 500c (I returned the first because of a bunch of problems). So far this unit seems to be working well, but the audio is disturbed by a distinct rapid clicking and whine that changes with the rpm. I'm assuming it is electrical interference from the ignition system, but can anyone suggest a more focused diagnosis and fix? If it makes any difference, the only electrical connection of the gps to the bike is via the maplight connection. Many thanks.

Bill
Guilford, CT
'99 Canyon Red K1200 LT - Buddah Bike
was is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 12 Old Jan 25th, 2006, 8:33 am
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,316
Me too I have put a filter on the output to my headsets but the whine is still there. More research needed
rixchard is offline  
post #3 of 12 Old Jan 25th, 2006, 9:15 am
Senior Member
 
jwd98056's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Renton, WA, USA
Posts: 710
I am not sure what you mean by a filter. What you probably need is a ground loop isolator. This is a transformer not a filter. I installed one in my audio line when I installed my iWay 500c. The audio is crystal clear with no interference what so ever .

My 500c is mounted on a BMR shelf with a 4" RAM mount similar to Dave's post:

http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/showthre...16656#poststop

My audio is routed back to my Autocom which is located under the passenger seat on the left side. My ground loop isolator, and a passive mixer I built to combine the 500c audio with my stereo audio, is in the void left after a canisterectomy.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
#32756 -
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
#122647
'12
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
FLTRU Ember Red Sunglo (
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
)
'05
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
R1200GS Desert Yellow (
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
)
'00
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
K1200LTC Canyon Red (
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
) - Retired 10/2012
----------------------------------------------
'02
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
FLSTC Custom (
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
)
For bike shows, parades, Taco Thursdays and local rides on sunny days only.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
jwd98056 is offline  
 
post #4 of 12 Old Jan 25th, 2006, 9:24 am
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,316
You are correct. it was a ground loop isolator. I put it between the intercom box( a starcom) and the audio source(patch off the rear speakers), but now that I think about it I may try it between the Iway and the cassette adaptor.
rixchard is offline  
post #5 of 12 Old Jan 25th, 2006, 10:18 am
Member
 
685ursus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Huntsville, ON, Canada
Posts: 62
Quote:
Originally Posted by was
.So far this unit seems to be working well, but the audio is disturbed by a distinct rapid clicking and whine that changes with the rpm. I'm assuming it is electrical interference from the ignition system, but can anyone suggest a more focused diagnosis and fix? If it makes any difference, the only electrical connection of the gps to the bike is via the maplight connection. Many thanks.
I read your post with interest. I am in the process of hooking up a new iWAY 500 myself. Plastic is off. My thought would include not using an accessory source such as the maplight. Power your iWAY from a source closer to the battery. This reduces the possibility of electrical interference because your power source to the iWAY does not feed any other accessories reducing the potential for electrical interference.

Personally ,I am, at this point considering wiring my iWAY to a direct battery feed - live all the time - because when I stop momentarily for any reason (ie for fuel) and shut the bike off I will not have an interruption to my GPS functions. Disadvantage = I must remember to turn the GPS off. For security purposes I will remove the GPS when I am leaving the bike parked in any case.

There are junction blocks for live feed both switched by ignition and live all the time under the seat near the battery. The iWAY comes with a long electrical harness plenty long enough to draw the power from a source close the battery.

Mike McIntosh
2005 K1200LT, 2008 K1200S
1998 K1200RS-sold May 2006
BMWMOA,BMWRA
685ursus is offline  
post #6 of 12 Old Jan 25th, 2006, 10:25 am
Senior Member
 
danbrew's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Hilton Head Island, SC, USA
Posts: 1,005
just wire a relay to power the GPS. Find a wire that is hot while the ignition switch is in the first position - thus permitting you to turn the engine off and remove the key. i can't remember if the headlight is hot in position#1, but the parking lights are. somebody here will know for sure...!

danbrew is offline  
post #7 of 12 Old Jan 25th, 2006, 10:50 am
Member
 
685ursus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Huntsville, ON, Canada
Posts: 62
Smile

A relay would work okay, but be careful of wiring into the headlight harness. You will increase the possibility of electrical interference. Staying close to the battery is the best way. It is less likely that you will have to install a filter or isolater. If in the end you still need to install either, you can gain access by lifting the seat; saving a lot of time removing plastic.

Mike McIntosh
2005 K1200LT, 2008 K1200S
1998 K1200RS-sold May 2006
BMWMOA,BMWRA
685ursus is offline  
post #8 of 12 Old Jan 25th, 2006, 8:53 pm Thread Starter
was
Senior Member
 
was's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Guilford, CT, USA
Posts: 805
Many thanks for all the feedback (no pun intended). This is one of the things I love about this forum. Now, being a completely inexperienced when it comes to electrical stuff, let me see if I understand some of what you all said:

1) Wiring the gps into an existing circuit probably causes the interference.
2) It is better to take power either directly from the battery (the supplied wire should be long enough) or from a relay (which continues to supply power when the engine is turned off).
3) If the power is taken from an existing circuit, a ground loop isolator has worked well to clear up the interference for some (jwd98056) but not for others (rixchard).
4) The ground loop isolator is wired into the audio line.

I hope I got that right. Now, two additional questions: if I take power directly from the battery, should I put a fuse in the power line? And what is a relay, and where do they live? Many thanks.

Bill
Guilford, CT
'99 Canyon Red K1200 LT - Buddah Bike
was is offline  
post #9 of 12 Old Jan 25th, 2006, 9:43 pm
Senior Member
 
jwd98056's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Renton, WA, USA
Posts: 710
Quote:
Originally Posted by 685ursus
A relay would work okay, but be careful of wiring into the headlight harness. You will increase the possibility of electrical interference. Staying close to the battery is the best way. It is less likely that you will have to install a filter or isolater. If in the end you still need to install either, you can gain access by lifting the seat; saving a lot of time removing plastic.
I believe what Dan was suggesting was to install a relay and use the appropriate LT signal source to actuate the relay. The actuating signal would be connected to the relay solenoid to open and close the relay. The DC power being switched by the relay should come from a fused connection to the battery. The relay solenoid is electrically isolated from the relay contacts and will not induce noise into the circuit being switched.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
#32756 -
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
#122647
'12
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
FLTRU Ember Red Sunglo (
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
)
'05
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
R1200GS Desert Yellow (
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
)
'00
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
K1200LTC Canyon Red (
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
) - Retired 10/2012
----------------------------------------------
'02
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
FLSTC Custom (
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
)
For bike shows, parades, Taco Thursdays and local rides on sunny days only.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
jwd98056 is offline  
post #10 of 12 Old Jan 26th, 2006, 12:23 am
Senior Member
 
jwd98056's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Renton, WA, USA
Posts: 710
Quote:
Originally Posted by was
Many thanks for all the feedback (no pun intended). This is one of the things I love about this forum. Now, being a completely inexperienced when it comes to electrical stuff, let me see if I understand some of what you all said:

1) Wiring the gps into an existing circuit probably causes the interference.
2) It is better to take power either directly from the battery (the supplied wire should be long enough) or from a relay (which continues to supply power when the engine is turned off).
3) If the power is taken from an existing circuit, a ground loop isolator has worked well to clear up the interference for some (jwd98056) but not for others (rixchard).
4) The ground loop isolator is wired into the audio line.

I hope I got that right. Now, two additional questions: if I take power directly from the battery, should I put a fuse in the power line? And what is a relay, and where do they live? Many thanks.
1) Wiring two devices from the same power circuit may or may not cause interference. In fact the grounding matters more than the power in most cases. Ground loops are caused when the voltage at the the grounds of two circuits are different for whatever reason. The cause of the voltage difference may or may not be related to the source of the power for the two circuits. When a ground loop condition exists in an audio circuit the shields of the audio cable provide a low resistance path for currents to flow between the two ground potentials. This current will include the noise that is always part of an automotive electrical system. This includes AC ripple from the alternator (alternator whine) and spark ignition noise. If the ground loop currents get large enough that noise will couple into your audio system and become a problem. There are two situations where the power source can contribute to the interference. One is if other devices are creating noise on the power circuit and the audio circuit is susceptible to that noise. The other situation is if a ground loop exists and the new device not only shares the power but the return ground wire as well. With additional current on the ground wire the voltage drop across the ground wire will increase and this could increase the effect of the ground loop. You can run a dedicated ground and power wire for the gps but that does not guarantee that a ground loop problem will be resolved. It is the sum of the whole and not the parts that matter.

2) This is a matter of personal preference so "better" is subjective. I personally have no problem with powering off the map light. If I am stopping to do map work and I want to stop the engine I just turn the key counter clockwise one step to the accessory position. The gps stays on and the motor is off. If I am refueling and need to remove the ignition key to unlock the gas cap then I have to turn the key all the way to the lock position and the gps is off. If I am refueling I don't have enough hands or eyes to be messing with the gps. Your mileage may vary. I also see no reason to use a relay if you want power available to the gps all the time. A direct hookup to a fused power source is all you need. If you want the power to the gps to be to be switched when the key is in the accessory position you will need to locate a circuit that operates the way you want your power to operate, such as the map light. If you want a dedicated power source you would tap into that circuit to control a relay you would purchase and install yourself. The control signal goes to one side of the control solenoid and the other side of the solenoid should be wired to ground. You would then run a fused lead from the battery to the common (C) or input contact on the relay. The output or normally open (NO) contact on the relay should then be wired to the gps or whatever it is you are powering.

3) As I have already stated the power source may not be the source of the interference. There are other sources of interference besides ground loops so ground loop isolators are not cure all solution.

4) Correct. Ground loop isolators are transformers and they block DC currents. To treat noise on the the power leads requires either a noise suppressor (commonly a shunt capacitor but a low pass filter is better) or ferrite beads or cores (to increase the the power lead inductance).

It is always best to have a fuse in the circuit. Unless you enjoy the smell of burning insulation .

A relay is device that can open and close an electrical connection using a control signal. For mechanical relays the control signal is applied to a solenoid or coil inside the relay and the magnetic force opens and closes the primary circuit contacts. There are also solid state relays that use transistors and optoisolators to do the same thing. Relatively low power control signals can then control much higher power circuits through the switched contacts of the relay. There are a variety a relays on the LT and I believe most if not all are located under the gas tank. I'm sure there are LT gurus out here that would know better than I.

I hope this diatribe helps rather than hinders .


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
#32756 -
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
#122647
'12
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
FLTRU Ember Red Sunglo (
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
)
'05
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
R1200GS Desert Yellow (
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
)
'00
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
K1200LTC Canyon Red (
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
) - Retired 10/2012
----------------------------------------------
'02
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
FLSTC Custom (
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
)
For bike shows, parades, Taco Thursdays and local rides on sunny days only.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
jwd98056 is offline  
post #11 of 12 Old Jan 26th, 2006, 1:50 am
IBR# 366
 
meese's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: West Linn, OR
Posts: 16,435
Garage
Lots of good info, Jim.

As far as the keys go, you should not be able to remove the key when it's in the ON position (full clockwise), but you should be able to remove it when OFF (or Accessory, one click counter-clockwise). That's all that most folks use most of the time.

Turning further counterclockwise to LOCK turns off Accessory power, and allows you to remove the key. That's how I always park my bike, and I can leave it sit for weeks and then it starts right up (though I really hate to let it sit that long for sanity reasons). Just don't turn it all the way counterclockwise to PARK, which leaves the parking bulbs lit and will drain your battery.

Also, many of us have modified the gas cap so that the key can be removed when the cap is unlocked. It can also be locked again any time you wish. That means you can lock it for security, but leave it unlocked (and fully closed) when riding a lot and you don't want to bother with the key just to get fuel.

There's more info on this gas cap modification in our FAQ under the Make the LT Fit You link.

Ken
Pacific NorthWet
'13 Dark Graphite Metallic K16GTLD, 24K miles
'09 Magnesium Beige Metallic K13GT, 63K miles
'03 Anthracite Metallic K12LTC, 66K miles
'02 Mauve Metallic K12LTC, 106K miles and sold
BMWLT#143, IBA# 366, MOA# 111996, SCMA# 24032


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Some people see the gas tank as half empty. Some see it as half full. All I care is that I know where the next tankful is coming from...
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
meese is offline  
post #12 of 12 Old Apr 26th, 2007, 9:07 pm
Senior Member
 
tomandmelanie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Manteca, CA, USA
Posts: 117
Lowrance i500c & ground loop isolators

Had all the same problems with noise. I listen to my GPS through my Chatterbox headset system. An in line mini jack ground loop isolator is a must between the GPS unit and the Chatterbox. I also added a ground loop isolator between the battery and the GPS. My GPS is powered directly from the battery with a fuse and a ground loop isolator in between.

The electrical system on the LT generates too much noise if you connect anywhere but the battery. If I charge my Chatterbox from the powerlet while riding with the GPS the noise from the Chatterbox bleeds into the whole system. I understand Chatterbox has a charger line with a ground loop isolator built in and plan to order one.

The advise you see from the postings here is correct the noise is from the LT electrical system not the GPS or the communications system you use. The down side of the fix is having to mount and use two ground loop isolators but it works.
tomandmelanie is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the BMW Luxury Touring Community forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Garmin 26xx/27xx audio problem bmwhd GPS 17 Apr 2nd, 2010 11:32 am
Lowrance IWAY 500C Mounting Question Dejan GPS 13 Jun 20th, 2007 6:51 pm
Ruting on the iway 500c rixchard GPS 9 Feb 2nd, 2006 10:59 am
iWay 500c Rebate jwd98056 GPS 0 Nov 25th, 2005 7:30 pm
iway 500c azsidewalker GPS 1 Oct 5th, 2005 7:31 pm

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome