BMW Luxury Touring Community - Site FAQ: Make the LT Fit You
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What accessories are available for the LT and which should I buy first?
Are you new to the K1200LT? Are you new to this site? Have you wondered what you might want to add to your bike to enhance your enjoyment of this magnificent machine? Need to know where to get that MUST HAVE accessory? Or just want to look at all the cool gadgets all these nutty guys and gals use on their own bikes?

Well, it's all on the K1200LT Accessories Page

Already seen it, but are a little overwhelmed by the choices? Maybe you'd just like to get an idea of how various members have accessorized their own bikes. Not to worry, my friend. Just take a look in the Surveys forum for a thread entitled "Accessories on your K1200LT"

Just watch your wallet. This stuff can get real expensive, real quick. ;-)

Happy shopping!!!

Can the gas cap be modified so I can leave it unlocked?
The short answer is YES!  The long answer is yes, but it takes some work.  Thanks to Gregory Pinkowski for this:

The essence of the mod is just to MAKE THE LOCK CYLINDER ROTATE A FULL 180 DEGREES so the key comes out in either the unlocked (turned a few degrees farther than stock) or the locked position.

1) GET THE COVER OFF. Turn it upside-down. You will see that the cover is retained at four obvious locations or "points". Pull with a
thumb at one point to deform the cover until that point starts to come off. Do the same at another adjacent point. After two points
are "off" the cover comes off easily.

2) TAKE OUT THE CYLINDER. Really easy with practice. The lock will fall out of the cover and out of the lower portion of the gas cap.
Don't lose the spring under the lock; it's not really small and it doesn't fly across the room or anything, just don't lose it.  With
the lock separate from the cover, insert the key into the lock. Farther down the lock you will see a slot (I think) and on the other
side around the lock a small nearly-square "window" to the cylinder.  There is a retainer, almost like another flat "tumbler", that you
have to press IN to release the cylinder from the lock bore. If the key is in, the cylinder could be rotated to LOCKED or UNLOCKED, or anywhere in-between, so the flat retainer to press in could be visible in the slot or in the window; it's pretty wide, so it's
probably visible there somewhere, but usually in the little almost-square window; if necessary rotate the cylinder with the key so the
retainer is accessible in the little window. Stick in a really teensy screwdriver or paperclip, and press in the "retainer". Now you want to pull out the cylinder and key together, so you could turn the cylinder a bit (so it's not locked) so the key won't pull out of
the cylinder, or just pull on the cylinder flange with your fingernail; whatever, it'll be obvious. The cylinder and key will
come out preferably still together (if together, the pins remain retracted flush; it will come out easier that way and you're less
likely to lose anything, but it will still come apart regardless).

There was lots of grease from the factory on the cylinder, so nothing fell out of the cylinder, but theoretically maybe the pins could fall
out (as often happens with a door lock disassembled carelessly).  These pins are more like flat sliding plates than the normal round
pins in a door lock. Mine never fell out, I don't even know whether these can with the key in?? Anyway it's not a problem, but you don't want to mix them up or you'll have to figure out which is which, kinda like re-keying a lock. After the cylinder is out of the bore,
there is a white spring-loaded cam with teeth at the bottom of the bore; it can fall out of the bore now that the crank pin at the
bottom of the cylinder isn't engaging its cam, but it probably won't. The spring isn't long, so it probably won't shoot across the
room or anything, just don't lose it. If you want to change how tight the cap will screw in before it goes "click, click, click" and
just spins, that's what that spring and white toothed cam do.

3) MODIFY THE ROTATIONAL STOP SO THE CYLINDER WILL ROTATE FARTHER WHEN "UNLOCKED". Flat pins or tumblers can come out two opposite sides of the cylinder. In use, the key can come out when those sides
of the cylinder are aligned with tumbler-clearance channels in the bore of the lock. So the whole idea is to make the cylinder rotate
farther when unlocked, so at either limit of its rotation the pins will align with channels, instead of just when it's locked. You want
to modify the rotational limit stops in ONE direction. There's one protruding stop on the cylinder right under the flange under the face
the key goes in, which hits two stops on the nylon bore, one for each direction of rotation. The metal cylinder is stronger than the nylon bore, and that metal stop is larger, so I took off about 2/3 of that metal stop. Just make darn sure you take it off of the correct side of the stop!!! I used a dentist's burr chucked into a Foredom flexible shaft, but a Dremel would do better, and a teensy mill and
endmill would work. If you can't get the corners square, just grind a little bit deeper at the concave corners. It's small. I hadn't
removed quite enough from the metal stop to rotate quite far enough, and I could have removed more, but for the last bit I used a
disposable scalpel to shave the Nylon lock bore's stop just a hair instead, shaving and scraping to get the corners perfect.

4) PUT IT TOGETHER. Really easy with practice. Put some small vise- grips (not too tight) outside the lock bore on the white toothed-cam at the bottom of the lock bore just to compress the spring, then insert the cylinder (with key in place, otherwise you have to push in each pin) back into the bore (the retainer pin will have to be pushed in, or you can see that there's one place that the cylinder wall has a tapered or ramped shape that makes it easy) making sure the crank pin at the bottom engages the cam (it will if the cylinder is rotated to within its normal operation range of rotation, so just turn the
cylinder and key until it goes all the way in, then the retainer pin will snap into its groove), and remove the key. Put the tapered
spring back into the bottom of the gas cap (the part that goes into the tank, and the larger diameter of the spring goes toward that),
put the lock into the top cover, and press it all together until all 4 "points" snap it back together.

Takes FAR less time to do than to read about; takes less time each time you do it!

My trip computer (BC) does a lousy job of figuring gas mileage. Can it be adjusted?
Yes.  The procedure is as follows (thanks to Paul Ford):

To adjust the MPG readout on the BC, do the following:

1) Divide the displayed MPG value by the actual MPG value, than multiply by 1000. For example, 48 MPG divided by 55 MPG = 0.872 x 1000 = 872.  Remember this number.  (Editor's note: You might want to run a few tanks through resetting the BC only on the first tank but measuring actual MPG by hand for each tank to get a good average.)

2) Press the reset and mode buttons on the BC simultaneously, then release. (Editor's note: do this with the ignition ON.)  The BC will display '01'.

3) Use the BC button on the right hand control switch to scroll through the four test screens.  Stop when '03' is displayed and then press the reset button.  WARNING:  Watch the screen carefully at this point!  As soon as you press 'reset', look for the very first number displayed.  This is the current MPG calibration factor but it's only displayed for a second before the number starts to count up.  The OEM setting is usually 1000 (no calibration) but it might not be and you may wish to return to the original number if you're not happy with the results of this exercise.  The number will begin to scroll, starting with the current setting, up to 1250.  It will then begin again at 750 and continue up.  When this number reaches the number closest to the number that you remembered from step 1), press the reset button again. That will reset the calibration factor for your display.

The other three test screens will not do anything.

Is there any way to adjust the handlebars on the LT?
Yes and thanks to Vic Agresti for the following procedure:

These are written for someone that has not previously worked on the bike. For others, some the early steps will be obvious.

If practical, combine this work with another project to save your labor. Donít force anything. If a piece wonít come off with a gentle tug, you probably missed a screw, or something similar. Have a feeler gage available that allows multiple thicknesses to be combined. Keep track of the screws used for each piece.

1. Set bike on center stand, point the front wheel straight ahead, and measure the distance from the floor to the top of each handle bar end. Repeat until both measurements are the same. Youíll want this later for comparison, to see how much you have raised the bars.

2. Remove front turn-signal housings.

3. Remove adjustable (swivel) ďwingletsĒ (held on via 3 screws). This will simplify fairing removal and reinstall.

4. Remove the two screws from the 4" x 6" colored plastic trim between the seat and oddments box. Slide out and remove.

5. Remove bumper guard assemblies.

6. Remove upper fairings. The middle top of each fairing has a tab (at oddments box location) that inserts straight-down into a slot along the top ridge. Lift it straight up. (On re-install, make sure this tab is properly inserted into that slot.) Also, each side has a push-fit pin into a rubber grommet where your knees go. Pull the fairing straight out to disengage pin. (To re-install, apply a small amount of grease or Vaseline on the pin, align the pin with the hole, and push it in. It wonít seat all the way in -- thatís OK.)

7. Remove screws from around the radio/CD/oddments box assembly. Slide assembly to rear several inches, being careful not to damage the wiring harnesses. (On re-install, make sure the large gasket around the fuel cap area is properly positioned, before inserting screws.)

8. Remove two screws from each handle-bar top cap trim and remove. Access is from the bottom using a small Allen wrench. Insert the long and short screws into the top caps where they came out before setting the trim aside so you donít misplace anything.

9. Remove the 4 screws from ignition key shroud plastic trim using a #3 Phillips screwdriver. (Thatís larger than normal.) Pry up gently by hand, one side first, and lift off. Turn handlebars to improve access.

10. Loosen the 4 bolts on the handlebar clamps, but not so much that the bar slips down.

11. Remove one bar clamp only. Use a dry brush to clean the grooved part of the handle bar. Apply Locktite to each bolt and reassemble. Repeat the same step on other clamp. Tighten only so much that the bar can be moved up and down, but stays in position when released. This will allow you to adjust the height to your liking.

12. Center the handlebar exactly between the clamps, using the bar grooves as markers. Otherwise, the bar top trim wonít fit properly. Sit on the bike and position the handlebars to fit YOU. Take your time and make sure it is right and that you are comfortable with the controls, mirrors, etc., at the new height. Measure distance from floor to handlebar tips and note the new height. (Simply as a point of reference, Iím 6í 4Ē and raised my handlebar tips a total of 1 ĺĒ and that seems just right for me.)

13. Slightly tighten one clamp to temporarily hold it in place, and re-check bar end height and bar-centering to make sure it didnít move. If you set the bar over a certain height [somewhere around 44" off floor], the top bar trim may not fit properly. Just to be sure, temporarily install the ignition key shroud and bar top trim before final tightening, to make sure the trim will fit.

14. According to the service manual, tighten the handlebar bolts on one clamp, using combinations of feeler gages under each side of the clamp. The goal is an almost identical gap on each side of a given clamp. Repair manual says torque these bolts to 21 nm. Repeat for the other clamp. The feeler gauge approach may sound unnecessary, but BMWís reasoning is that uneven tightening could stretch one side of a bolt more than the other side of that bolt, if the underside of a bolt head didn't contact the clamp face uniformly. This could weaken both bolts, and in a worst case scenario, lead to bolt failure. It could also weaken the aluminum clamp for the same reason.

15. Reverse from step 9 to 2 to reassemble.

How can I connect my Street Pilot III to the BMW (J&M) ComSystem?
The BMW kit includes the "plug-in" wiring harness -- no cut-and-pasting of wires -- along with the dash bracket and the remote antenna. AFAIK, you can't get the factory harness without the bracket (someone please correct me if I'm wrong).

You don't need the BMW harness, it's just handier.  If you want to do it "cheap," you need (i) a Garmin power cord (you can buy a car adapter from someone like TVNAV and cut off the cigarette lighter end), (ii) a 2.5mm plug (Radio Shack) and (iii) wire. Your choice as to whether you want to buy the remote antenna or to use the external antenna that comes with the SPIII -- if you're not using the BMW dash mount, you won't want/need the remote antenna anyway.  And don't be tempted to cut off the cigarette adapter that comes with the SPIII -- you'll want to use the SPIII in your cage once in a while.

Under the left side of the radio "stingray," among the various ComSystem cables/connectors, there should be a three-wire connector, with orange, white and blue wires.  Orange is +12V power, Blue is ground and White is audio input.  You basically cut off the ComSystem connector and hook up the Garmin cable's red (12V) and black (ground) wires, then connect the white wire to the tip of the 2.5mm plug. Do NOT connect the 2.5mm plug's ground (bottom) conductor to anything -- the audio line grounds through the Garmin power cord ground, and hooking up the audio ground will create a horrid feedback loop.  DAMHIK

One suggestion: If you "do it yourself" be sure to put quick-disconnects in the lines, or you'll have to cut/redo the wires every time you take the radio stingray off (like to change the air filter).  Or just buy the BMW harness

Thanks to Mark Neblett, Fairfax, VA

Does anyone make driver floorboards for the LT?
Yes.  A company called Ilium Works  You can read a great deal about them here.

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