Question for Workbench Owners - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 14 Old Feb 9th, 2008, 7:11 am Thread Starter
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Question Question for Workbench Owners

Hey Guys,

I've been looking at a "real" workbench for my garage for some time.

I think I'm going to tackle it this weekend.

Construction is fairly Spartan, probably 2x4's clamped with thd rod (and glued), 4x4 legs, function over fashion.

Now to my question, I'm planning on ripping my 2x's (to keep the top flat), but wondering what to do with the top surface?

Does anyone have suggestions on the what to finish to apply to the top? I can see it both ways 1) Oil (or nothing) and 2) Hard Poly coating.

Since it's pine, I would question the hard coating, but, experience is usually better than theory.

Thanks

Joe

2005 KLT "Old Blue"

Bruno the "Bugg"


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post #2 of 14 Old Feb 9th, 2008, 7:25 am
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"It's a WORK Bench!"

Keep it simple... 2X4's .. Bought a 3X6 kit at Home Depot years ago for about $20.00. It works....... Vice on one side everything around it on peg boards. Nice coat of oil all over from use. Don't make it too pretty or others in the family will try to use it!

Dano
Tampa, Fl.

12 K1600 GTL
02 K1200 LT (gone but not forgotten)
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post #3 of 14 Old Feb 9th, 2008, 7:43 am Thread Starter
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Man after my own heart

Thanks Dan,

I was thinking along the same lines. K.I.S.S.

I'm thinking 8 foot long, but the 2x4 surface will be about two feet deep. I will Butt up a 24" by 8Foot long "shelf" behind it. The bench is sorta integrated into some exisiting garage shelving.

Not to start another "oil thread", but can I swictch from Dino to Synthetic after 6 months?

2005 KLT "Old Blue"

Bruno the "Bugg"


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post #4 of 14 Old Feb 9th, 2008, 8:00 am
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I never switched to synthetic

I simply use the recommended dyno oil and fluids and change all of them every 6,000 miles. Keeps it simple. Coming up on my 36,000 mile change soon and there is a local company that will analyze oils for free, so that is the next step. So far, all look good and clean, the magnet plugs have a little fuzz, so I'm staying with what has worked, unless something unexpected is found. Probably drill the clutch weep hole soon too.

Lots of information on the forum on switching oils, and my local Tampa dealer has said that to them, it doesnt really matter. If it is changed often enough, INHO most recommended oils will work. I'm not a proponent of trying to get extended miles out of the least costly maintenance item for my bike.

Dano
Tampa, Fl.

12 K1600 GTL
02 K1200 LT (gone but not forgotten)
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post #5 of 14 Old Feb 9th, 2008, 8:44 am
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Old litchen work top does me (as well as 2nd hand kitchen units!)

"Whenever you find you are on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect" Mark Twain


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post #6 of 14 Old Feb 9th, 2008, 8:50 am
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I have 16 foot of bench. I use 3/4" plywood for the top. I promise you, after years of use, it will acquire it's own finish.



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post #7 of 14 Old Feb 9th, 2008, 9:10 am
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I scored a good maple work bench when I remodeled a college wood shop.
Mineral oil is what I use on this and the kitchen chopping block.
A better finish will get chipped and nicked and you'll be redoing it all the time.

Allan..Illinois, Oregon, Arkansas, and tomorrow the Universe
2003 K1200LT trike - Starfighter
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post #8 of 14 Old Feb 9th, 2008, 9:31 am
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When we bought our house the PO left an old scarred workbench. It was structurally sound but well used. I got a discarded stainless steel elevator door that is about 2'x7' and laid it on the top. Built a ledge across the back that integrates with the wall studs so things can't fall through. When it comes time to clean it acetone on a rag gets the sticky stuff and a palm sander with 100 grit does the rest.

Jim Anderson
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'08 Tiger
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post #9 of 14 Old Feb 9th, 2008, 10:33 am
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Hey Joe,

There are different kinds of "real" workbenches. I had one like Grif mentions, and you talk of building, but it was too big for my garage. It was built and left in the garage by the previous owner of the home. It was not well built...it rocked and wobbled...despite 4X4 construction and 3/4" plywood. After a few years I finally built a NICE woodworking type bench with bench dogs and end vises. It wasn't cheap and it took some time. Probably not what you are wanting to do. But it serves me well for eveything I do. It is rock solid...and will last me a long time. In one of the pics you can see the old bench.

I've since made two other smaller simple one-day project work benches of the 2X4 and plywood nature. One one I found a solid hardwood door for cheap and used it as the top.
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post #10 of 14 Old Feb 9th, 2008, 11:30 am
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2 X 6 Top Correction

Quote:
Originally Posted by dandiver
Keep it simple... 2X4's .. Bought a 3X6 kit at Home Depot years ago for about $20.00. It works....... Vice on one side everything around it on peg boards. Nice coat of oil all over from use. Don't make it too pretty or others in the family will try to use it!
Just checked it and the top is covered with 2 X 6's not 2 x 4's sorry...

Dano
Tampa, Fl.

12 K1600 GTL
02 K1200 LT (gone but not forgotten)
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post #11 of 14 Old Feb 9th, 2008, 11:40 am
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I have one made from an old piece of 1" cabinet grade plywood 4' X 8' cut down to 2' wide and forms an L on one end 4' wide. I used 2x8's on edge all the way around it for a "skirt" and used 7 4x4 legs. I also have shelves built into it (underneath) and 3 drawers in the edge that faces out from the wall. The plywood was finished with marine grade polyeurothane (I think they had used 10 coats or so) and has proved to be very durable.
The plywood top was free (from a renovation someone was doing) and the other wood maybe cost $30 total and another $30 or so later for the shelves and drawers. It is pushed against the wall in a corner of the garage and has pegboard behind it.
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post #12 of 14 Old Feb 9th, 2008, 10:32 pm
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Made mine w/hardwood 3x4's from old Alro Steel skids I get from work.

Pre-weathered, don't know what kind of wood they are but they're hard as steel itself. You could dull a hatchet trying to chip at it. Same construction as you're considering, threaded rod to keep'em all together. Pine will be fine, but this thing is bomb resistant!

As far as finish goes, I prefer to let it take a natural course. I have oil, permatex, various paint spills, some unknown substances, and of course spilled coffee and beer (not at the same time...). Well protected against anything.

Rick
'01 LT
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post #13 of 14 Old Feb 9th, 2008, 11:23 pm
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Here you go. Thousands of experimental aircraft have been built using this. Build one of these and you won't need anything else.

http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/w...l/worktabl.htm

Bill McAllister
St. Louis, MO.
2003 K1200LTE

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post #14 of 14 Old Feb 10th, 2008, 8:28 am
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We use fiberglass resin to cover many things including work benches. It is very easy to use and available everywhere. If you have ever been into a bar that has coins or pictures imbedded under the bar top, it is probably fiberglass resin over the top. If it gets too beat upi to see what is underneath, you can just sand it and buff it or add another layer. Half the fun is deciding what to put under the resin. I used this on my bench that I used to repair transmissions from our over the road trucks. The only bench in the place that looked better after 10 years was the one with the custom stainless steel top. I would not pick that $500 option. I could use the money for more toys for the LT.

2Wheelroadtrip (Barney)
03 LTC
82 Aspencade
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