Marc Parnes Wheel Balancer - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 24 Old Apr 10th, 2007, 2:31 pm Thread Starter
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Marc Parnes Wheel Balancer

OK, I'm intrigued. Thinking of getting a Marc Parnes balancer, looks fairly cost effective and small enough to store. Will probably also get the HD adapter kit so I can do the Road King wheels as well.

The big question. . . How does it work? I saw the setup instructions on his site, but curious as to how one would actually use it to balance a tire. Wondering if I would be getting in over my head with this.

TIA

Antony (Tripod)
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post #2 of 24 Old Apr 10th, 2007, 3:06 pm
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The balancer just sets on top a set of jack stands. Spin the tire slowly and let go, the heavy end ends up at the bottom. Add some weight. Rotate tire and hold weighted portion at 9 or 3 o'clock. Let tire go. If it stays still, you're done. If the weighted section goes toward's 6, remove weight. If weight portion goes toward's 12, add weight.


For better performance, balance the wheel only, then again with the tire on.

HTH.

John

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post #3 of 24 Old Apr 10th, 2007, 4:37 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bowlesj
The balancer just sets on top a set of jack stands. Spin the tire slowly and let go, the heavy end ends up at the bottom. Add some weight. Rotate tire and hold weighted portion at 9 or 3 o'clock. Let tire go. If it stays still, you're done. If the weighted section goes toward's 6, remove weight. If weight portion goes toward's 12, add weight.


For better performance, balance the wheel only, then again with the tire on.

HTH.

What John said!! You may be surprised to see that the heavy spot on the rim alone is not always the valve stem. Mark the heavy spot and align the dots on the tire with it instead of the valve stem.....this way you will use the minimum weight to balance.

I think you will be very impressed with both the quality of the balancer and Marc's service.

Ron


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post #4 of 24 Old Apr 10th, 2007, 4:56 pm
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It works great and is well worth the price. I've used it many times and always gotten great results.

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post #5 of 24 Old Apr 10th, 2007, 6:53 pm Thread Starter
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Thanks, folks. I just ordered one. I suppose I need one of those HFT tire remover/mounter gizmos, and a lift table, and a . . .

Does it ever end??

Antony (Tripod)
Dallas' Northern Suburbs
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post #6 of 24 Old Apr 10th, 2007, 7:05 pm
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Gawd, i hope not

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post #7 of 24 Old Apr 10th, 2007, 7:13 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deputy5211
Thanks, folks. ...Does it ever end??
No.

I have the MP and it works fine... bike rode better than new.. come to think of it, the new tires were not balanced at all...

I supported the ends using two jackstands... then press the forcing cones together so that wheel is completely suspended by the inner race of the bearings.

Spin it "several times" to make sure there is no wobble.. then let it come to rest. Mark rim with grease pencil at lowest center point. Spin again... is the grease pencil mark still the lowest, center part? If not, re-mark and re-spin.

Should the lowest center part not be consistently within an inch either side of the first or second mark, you probably don't have the tire suspended properly... the bearings might also may have some slack in them. There should be NO movement of the Balancer other than rotationally.

Then there's the chance you hit the Tire Lotto and have a really good tire which requires no weights.... one in a million, like my stock ones... hahaha.

Before "adding" weights, use a small piece of duct tape to hold your "weights" in place. That way you can move it several times to get optimum balance before cleaning and sticking them to the rim.

...............
J.M.J...
Dcn Channing

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post #8 of 24 Old Apr 10th, 2007, 9:24 pm
 
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Just another voice in crowd - the MP balancer is worth every cent. Heck, it is almost a work of art.

It's hard to explain, but I get a lot of satisfaction out of changing my own tires - especially after the closest dealer was going to charge me 2hrs labor....

If had the money, I would have gone with the NoMar tire changer. I at least got their NoMar bar - it's great... The HFT tire change works just fine though...

Like Channing said, no, it doesn't end.... :-)
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post #9 of 24 Old Apr 10th, 2007, 9:31 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gulfxray
Just another voice in crowd - the MP balancer is worth every cent. Heck, it is almost a work of art.

It's hard to explain, but I get a lot of satisfaction out of changing my own tires - especially after the closest dealer was going to charge me 2hrs labor....

If had the money, I would have gone with the NoMar tire changer. I at least got their NoMar bar - it's great... The HFT tire change works just fine though...

Like Channing said, no, it doesn't end.... :-)
I have the Harbor Freight changer that I changed into a no mar. Sprayed the grippers with Rhino liner in a can. I did buy the No Mar Bar and No Mar spoons. Not to mention the Marc Parnes balancer with an extra cone that a fine gent from OK sent me.

Now.... I'm running my tires as hard as I can to wear 'em out.



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post #10 of 24 Old Apr 10th, 2007, 9:55 pm Thread Starter
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Grif:

If you can find it, I'd appreciate knowing the brand/type of the spray rhino stuff you used.

Antony (Tripod)
Dallas' Northern Suburbs
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post #11 of 24 Old Apr 11th, 2007, 4:59 am
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Grif, the Rhino liner is holding up? The gripper sees some pretty high force that would tend to rip any coating off. I'm impressed if it does work!

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post #12 of 24 Old Apr 11th, 2007, 5:13 am
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It's just the spray stuff in a can that you can buy from any large auto parts chain. This is called Dupli Color Truck Bed Coating. I originally bought it to shoot the piece right behind the front wheel of the LT (man, that piece takes some abuse).

Not even real original, I read awhile back where one of the guy's dipped his tire changer clamps in that plastic coating stuff you get at Ace Hardware for tool handles and such.

As far as holding up? Well, it only has to once. Then, if needed, I'll sprroosh another shot on it.



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post #13 of 24 Old Apr 11th, 2007, 12:33 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kellenbenz
What John said!! You may be surprised to see that the heavy spot on the rim alone is not always the valve stem. Mark the heavy spot and align the dots on the tire with it instead of the valve stem.....this way you will use the minimum weight to balance. Ron
Actually, if you balance the wheel perfectly, then you can pretty much ignore the dots on the tires. It's fun having some "know-it-all" at a rally or RTE tell you that your tires are mounted "wrong".


GB
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post #14 of 24 Old Apr 11th, 2007, 4:56 pm
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Great thread Tony! I love reading about topics such as this. Something to put away on the old mental hard drive as I understand the charge for dealers to mount & balance tires can be high.

Am now waiting for a write-up and pics for when Grif changes his first tire with his new toys...

David
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post #15 of 24 Old Apr 12th, 2007, 8:11 am
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I've never mounted and balanced my own tires, but I have a question. I thought that the dots on the tire represented the heavy spot. If that's correct, then why would lining the dots up with the heaviest part of the wheel cause you to use less weight to balance? I would think that you woud want the dots to line up with the lightest part of the wheel. Am I wrong?

Ray Rau
Brewster, NY
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post #16 of 24 Old Apr 12th, 2007, 10:59 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RiderRay
I've never mounted and balanced my own tires, but I have a question. I thought that the dots on the tire represented the heavy spot. If that's correct, then why would lining the dots up with the heaviest part of the wheel cause you to use less weight to balance? I would think that you woud want the dots to line up with the lightest part of the wheel. Am I wrong?
Ray,
There is usually one dot on the sidewall that is the lightest point on the tire - normally you would line the tire up so the dot is next to the valve stem, assuming that it is the heaviest part of the rim.
Howver, it is better to verify this by putting the wheel on the MP balancer before mounting the tire to find the heaviest spot - the side of the rim that consistently stops at the bottom (mark that as the heaviest rather than the valve stem)

HTH

-Brian Louw
Arroyo Grande, CA.

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post #17 of 24 Old Apr 12th, 2007, 8:16 pm
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You guys are costing me, or maybe you're really saving me...MONEY!

I'm gonna have to start mounting my own tires since travel to closest dealer is 4+ hours 1-way. I guess a Harbor Freight tire changer is the do-it-yourselfer way to go.
At least that seems the general consensus on the board. Just how hard it it to get these tires on and off using that contraption?

Basically, what level is the "curse threat" at when wrestling with the rubber?
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post #18 of 24 Old Apr 13th, 2007, 9:27 am
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Personally, after doing the research, I'm popping for a NO Mar machine, probably the middle-grade (ie, not the bottom end or pro model, a good compromise).

I figure I'll have to put about 1200 bucks into the ordeal (compressor, et el)but at 1000 miles a week, you would not believe what I'm spending on tires. Those miles are on my S, not the LT (I save that for 2 up and long biz trips now).

happy trails...geo
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post #19 of 24 Old Apr 13th, 2007, 9:47 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tbird
You guys are costing me, or maybe you're really saving me...MONEY!

I'm gonna have to start mounting my own tires since travel to closest dealer is 4+ hours 1-way. I guess a Harbor Freight tire changer is the do-it-yourselfer way to go.
At least that seems the general consensus on the board. Just how hard it it to get these tires on and off using that contraption?

Basically, what level is the "curse threat" at when wrestling with the rubber?
The HF changer and a no-mar bar is the way to go. As long as the tire is not cold...under 60 deg F. Time saved by not having to drop wheels off at dealer and pick up later. Knowing it is done right. Plus not breaking the Smartire sensors=$$$

$60 hf changer on sale
$110 Marc Parnes balancer + weights
$75 no-mar bar

Mitchell P. Patrie [[email protected]] sells a no-mar bar that I like.

dan martin
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post #20 of 24 Old Apr 16th, 2007, 9:23 pm
 
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Wink Marc Parnes Balancer & Mojo lever

I had never changed a tire on any of my 34 bikes until my wife bought me the Harbor freight stand for Christmas. I talked to Marc Parnes and ordered his balancer. He also told me about the "Mojolever" ( $80) one of his buddies was manufacturing. THESE ARE GREAT PRODUCTS! I have changed 5 tires since January ( all other bikers) with total sucess. A couple of tire spoons ( $13) and a gallon of "RuGlyde" from NAPA ($18) and you'll be changing your tires from now on! I know I will. Ron Ray
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post #21 of 24 Old Apr 17th, 2007, 8:23 am
 
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Wink Cost of tire changing gear

Quote:
Originally Posted by ldbikin
Personally, after doing the research, I'm popping for a NO Mar machine, probably the middle-grade (ie, not the bottom end or pro model, a good compromise).

I figure I'll have to put about 1200 bucks into the ordeal (compressor, et el)but at 1000 miles a week, you would not believe what I'm spending on tires. Those miles are on my S, not the LT (I save that for 2 up and long biz trips now).

happy trails...geo
You really don't have to invest $1200 as suggested in the quote. Here's what I have invested in the complete package:

Harbor freight changer w/attachment $90
Marc Parnes Balancer $110
Mojolever- nylon tipped ends $80
Motion Pro Tire Spoons $13
RuGlyde lubricant ( NAPA) $18
swab for applying lubricant $5
Sears portable air compressor $100
Jack stands for holding balancer $20
wheel weights $12

TOTAL $448

I've changed tires on an LT, a Harley Heritage Classic, a GS Adventure, and a wheel barrow. ( I didn't balance the wheel barrow tire- Ha! Ha!)
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post #22 of 24 Old Apr 19th, 2007, 8:34 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grifscoots
It's just the spray stuff in a can that you can buy from any large auto parts chain. This is called Dupli Color Truck Bed Coating. I originally bought it to shoot the piece right behind the front wheel of the LT (man, that piece takes some abuse).

Not even real original, I read awhile back where one of the guy's dipped his tire changer clamps in that plastic coating stuff you get at Ace Hardware for tool handles and such.

As far as holding up? Well, it only has to once. Then, if needed, I'll sprroosh another shot on it.
I use 3 pieces of inner-tube cut to fit into the slot that holds the rim in place. No expense and holds great.

Chuck J

02 K1200LT (Black Beauty)

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post #23 of 24 Old Apr 19th, 2007, 8:39 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tbird
You guys are costing me, or maybe you're really saving me...MONEY!

I'm gonna have to start mounting my own tires since travel to closest dealer is 4+ hours 1-way. I guess a Harbor Freight tire changer is the do-it-yourselfer way to go.
At least that seems the general consensus on the board. Just how hard it it to get these tires on and off using that contraption?

Basically, what level is the "curse threat" at when wrestling with the rubber?
There is a Tech Article in on changing the front tire using the Harbor Freight changer and No Mar bar.

Take a peek!!

Chuck J

02 K1200LT (Black Beauty)

New friends make it all worthwhile!!! Smile, its catching.
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post #24 of 24 Old Apr 19th, 2007, 8:49 pm
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tbird
... Just how hard it it to get these tires on and off using that contraption?
First time can be a hassle, but it gets easier Tbird... If I can do it, I know you certainly can!

A mistake I made the first time was being stingy with the lubricant; you don't want a sloppy mess, but don't be afraid to use the stuff!

Read the posts on changing, the tech article, and check out the videos on NoMar's site - obviously they aren't using the HF stuff, but you can see their bar in action and get a general idea of how things work.

Here is a link that might help a bit, or give you another perspective -- http://www.pbase.com/fredharmon/tirechange ; there are others out there...

When it is done, get a drink, admire your handywork, and put the money you just saved towards the next gadget...
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