Cable repair - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 6 Old Oct 24th, 2007, 9:59 pm Thread Starter
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Cable repair

Hmmm. "There have been no posts in this forum in 30 days..."

Well, I'll try here first and if nothing happens, I can always repeat the post in a few days...

My new-to-me K1200LT came with an already-installed-but-not-working-right AutoCom system. As I dig through and correct the problems, one thing I discovered is that the rider's headset lead came in contact with something hot and the outer jacket (only) melted a bit. I can see the (undamaged) inner cables, but I would like to put some type of repair into place.

Replacing the cable itself is out of the question as it goes into the sealed AutoCom unit and I don't have a 7 pin DIN connector anyway. I'd just like to find something that I can fix this with.

In any other climate than the desert of Arizona I would just wrap with electrical tape. Our high temperatures preclude this, though, as the tape just slithers around leaving a very gooey mess behind.

Heat shrink won't fit over the DIN plug.

Any ideas from the august body of people who have helped me out so many times before I got the nerve to start asking questions?

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post #2 of 6 Old Oct 24th, 2007, 10:14 pm
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The headset lead from the base unit can be replaced as it is a plug-in on the main circuit board. If it is a Pro-M1, or Pro 7 Sport carefully peel back the name label and a single screw holds the cover on the unit. A replacement cable from Top Gear Accessories can be sent to you for approximately $30 - been there done that!!!!!

Steve Collier
'05 KLT
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post #3 of 6 Old Oct 25th, 2007, 12:02 am
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Cable repair

Use some Liquid Electrical Tape. It seals up and keeps everything out after it dries. It can be found just about everywhere wiring supplies are sold (Home Depot, Lowes, Autozone, etc...)

Tim Barstow

2004 GSA Silver
2007 X Challenge
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post #4 of 6 Old Oct 25th, 2007, 6:50 am
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The "cloth" like OEM electrical tape can be had at Ace Hardware and it won't slither around. I've not had much luck with the liquid stuff, unless you put multiple coats, with subsequent drying times, as it's just too watery.



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post #5 of 6 Old Oct 25th, 2007, 8:02 am Thread Starter
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Options, woo-hoo!

Thanks, everyone. I also shot an email to AutoCom US and I'll post their reply here.

I didn't realize I could replace the leads and it's pretty ugly so that may be my first choice with some type of taped repair my second.

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post #6 of 6 Old Oct 26th, 2007, 1:03 pm Thread Starter
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Solution

For anyone who might be interested or who might need this at some time in the future, here is what I heard from AutoCom USA:

The rider lead is part number 1952 and the passenger lead is part number 1953. These parts do not show up on the website so you have to call or email to get them. The cost is $25 each.

HTH.

BTW, I also found something very cool at my local Fry's Electronics. I wanted to be able to find something that I could use like electrical tape but that wouldn't leave that sticky residue. There is a product called expandable mesh (think of those "Chinese Finger Locking Puzzles" you may have had as a kid) that is basically just a mesh jacket--but you can expand it to fit it over the connector and then pull it snug once it's on the cable! (It does have to be secured at each end.) Way cool! I think I am going to use the tape grifscoots suggested (friction tape is what I've always called it), then slip the mesh thingee over that, and secure it with tie wraps at either end--or maybe a dab of the liquid electrical tape as tbarstow said. I think that this will give me the best looking approach.

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