Connecting to Heated Seat Connector on LT - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 3 Old Jun 2nd, 2007, 6:00 pm Thread Starter
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Connecting to Heated Seat Connector on LT

Hi,

I've just installed a Centech AP-1 and an Eastern Beaver relay loom in my LT and now I'm trying to figure out how to disassemble the front heated seat connector so that I can connect a pig tail to the +ve pin to switch the relay.

The Eastern Beaver loom comes with PosiTap connectors which are a bit bulky and I'm also concerned that they might not work too well with the skinny wire that goes to the connector.

I've searched around the forums and found mention of a BMW pig tail used in conjunction with the comm system (don't have one of those) and a BMW connector tool, but no indication of part numbers etc.

All guidance greatly appreciated!

Cheers,

Kev
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post #2 of 3 Old Jun 2nd, 2007, 6:06 pm
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One option might be to strip back some of the insulator and solder your tap wire onto the hot wire. I usually cover the joint with heat shrink tubing and then wrap with friction tape.

As for disassembling the heated seat connector, I usually find I have to remove the left upper fairing as the seat side of the connector pulls outward from the frame to the left (as seen when facing forward on the bike). I have seen some who have tapped into the seat side of the wiring, but what do you do when you remove the seat? Granted, not an everyday occurrence, but when it does happen is probably not the best time to start re-wiring for your relay trigger.

You may be able to reach to the outboard side of the connector, squeeze the little wings on the short sides, and pull the connect outboard to separate.

Clear as mud?

Antony (Tripod)
Dallas' Northern Suburbs
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post #3 of 3 Old Jun 3rd, 2007, 2:14 pm
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I have the same Eastern Beaver kit. Of course, I used the Centech to connect my heated seat cuz my early 99 did not come prewired for a heated seat in the first place.

I tapped into a switched wire on the back of one of the existing fuse boxes. I forget which one it was but I can look if you like. I used a circuit tester to make sure it was a switched circuit, then I peeled back a little insulation to get access to it.

The posi-taps come in different sizes and I agree that the one that came with the EB look was a little larger than optimal. The first time I hooked it up, the relay did not trigger. I took the connector apart and saw that the little spike had pushed the wire to one side. I did it again, making sure to hold the wire dead center so that the tip of the spike went straight in. That did the trick.
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