Fuel Injector cleaning-on the bike - BMW Luxury Touring Community
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post #1 of 5 Old Nov 27th, 2008, 8:08 pm Thread Starter
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Location: Sydney, New South Wales, Australia
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Cool Fuel Injector cleaning-on the bike

I haven't been able to find anything in the HOW on doing a fuel injector clean, as in "on the bike"....lotsa stuff on pump pressure, vacc adjust setting of throttle bodies etc but nothing specific to getting the injectors back to new.

The procedure as I gather info on is:

a) obtain "trade supply only" fuel injector cleaner. Stuff to put in the tank not worth wasting your money on according to friendly garage mechanic who is sourcing some of this fuel cleaner. Do not spill on paintwork. If you add this hypo cleaner to the fuel cell then it will dislodge crap stuff in the fuel filter. Dunno if it would affect fuel pump or not in the short term, anyway good time to change fuel filter at same time.

b) remove tupperware down to be able to change fuel filter.

c) fuel pump removed with fuel cell, but if not wanting to go to this detail, remove fuel pump electrical supply connector, or fuse.

d) Need to plug the return line fuel hose (the rear hose going into the fuel cell.

e) Now is the tricky part of having some sort of container, this is probably going to have to be specifically fabricated, that will allow the fuel injector cleaner to be added (100-150ml?? as per manufacturer rec for a 4 cylinder), also the connection of an air line set at 50psi, plus a gas tight valve to stop the injector cleaner from dripping out of this container.

f) connect the gas tight valve discharge to the supply fuel line (front hose going into fuel cell which is now disconnected from the fuel cell of course).

g) the fuel injector cleaner is as flammable as fuel so extreme care required......no smoking!!!!

h) start up bike and run for 20 mins with occasional blips of the throttle etc etc.

i) when injector cleaner all used up, shut down and (now good time to change filter, maybe also air filter) refit fuel cell, tupperware etc etc

ok....that seems the general ghist of what to do,...maybe Mark N or David S can add their insight into what I may have missed??

Why do it? Beryl Beemer has 174,000 kms on the clock, (is Beryl the highest kms LT in Oz???) and still chugs along quite fine, (still gets about 4.8l/100kms two up at 110kph) although a certain mate curls his eyebrows at my style of chugging along. Beryl burnt a hole in an exhaust valve maybe 50,000 kms ago, cost $2300 or so at the end of the day to get back on the road, $600 of that was for a head specialist company to check and clean the cylinder head etc. This fuel injector cleaner will also remove crap and stuff from the head/valves and piston crown.

It's just an idea that maybe this should be done every couple of hundred thousand k's?????

Your thoughts?


19XX BSA 125cc "racing" Bantam
1950 Sunbeam 500cc S7 Combo
19XX Royal Enfield 500 J2 combo
19XX BSA 500cc single B33
1960 Triumph 650cc Tiger 110
1970 Honda 750cc four K1
1975 Triumph Trident 750 triple
1978 XS1100E 1100cc "The Tardis" (ret)
1999 K1200LT "Beryl Beemer"

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post #2 of 5 Old Nov 27th, 2008, 8:36 pm
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Re: Fuel Injector cleaning-on the bike

Hello Phill

Here in the US back when FI first came out in the car injector "Power Cleaning " was often sold as cure for ruff running and lose of fuel mileage . I think that the car manifactruing co's got the gas companies to reformulate the gas with more detergents and cleaners .Have not heard of anybody power cleaning injectors in years .4or5 years ago I purchased a can of 3M power injector cleaner from Oreillys Auto parts . You use a special valve/can adaptor with an adaptor for each different car .It could be adapted to fit the fuel hose from the tank to the injector fuel rail with out removing the tank .
If you are interested send me a PM and I will send you the 3M part # s and you can shop around for them .
Yes I work at 3M ,but not where the automotive cleaners are made .

Bob G
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post #3 of 5 Old Nov 27th, 2008, 10:14 pm
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Re: Fuel Injector cleaning-on the bike

I don't have any real scientific advice for you, just some personal experiences.

I've never had an issue with this on my K1200LT
but my K1100LT used to "act up" occasionally when it got some "dirty" fuel,

it's been my experience that some regular store bought fuel injector cleaning fluid poured in with the fuel got rid of the rough running issue in ten to twenty miles.

So why would you want to do all that other "stuff"?

St. Petersburg FL

2002 K1200LTE
"Silver Buffalo" Totaled 5/06
2005 LT
"Our preferred long distance carrier"

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post #4 of 5 Old Nov 28th, 2008, 7:38 am
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Re: Fuel Injector cleaning-on the bike

I have done this cleaning on two cars, built my own system. Like some of the trade units, it is a container with a pressure gauge and small air regulator. If the fuel rail pressure is not known (usually stated in service manuals), measure it with engine running.

Remove supply line to fuel rail, attach line from container. Fill container with the cleaner that is mixed with the specified amount of gasoline, set pressure on container to a couple PSI under specified or measured to keep fuel regulator valve from opening, start engine and run at approx. 2,000 RPM until it stops. If you set the pressure too close to the normal pressure, the fuel regulator valve may open and some of your mixture will escape through the return line to the tank instead of it all being used to run the engine.

As to effectiveness, it did little on one car, made a big difference in the other.

It CAN work if injectors are "dirty", but these days, fuel usually has a small amount of cleaner in it to help keep injectors from getting really gummed up.

I don't want to achieve immortality through my work...I want to achieve it through not dying.

David Shealey
Dandridge, TN
EX: '01 Black LT, BAT BYKE (Totaled at 110,000 miles)
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post #5 of 5 Old Nov 28th, 2008, 1:02 pm
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Re: Fuel Injector cleaning-on the bike

Earlier this year I experienced an engine fire due to a gas station pump not shutting off automatically. The fire was extinguished with a dry chemical type extinguisher which made a tremendous mess everywhere on and in my '03 LT. I spent most of the late spring and summer disassembling, cleaning, and re-assembling almost every part of the bike.

The fuel rail was one of the fire casualties, so the FI system had to be disassembled and cleaned also. While the FI was apart I built a little jig for pressurized injector flushing that accomplishes what a professional refurbishing (almost) would.

Do this outside, as you will be atomizing some very flammable material. Get a length of 1 x 4, and drill a hole to accept the injector body. I attached mine to a saw horse. Bosch injectors are widely used in the automotive world, so the connector is almost universal. I bought mine for $9 at an auto parts store. An '88 Ford pickup or a '95 Sedan deVille use the same connector. Find a momentary switch and a 12 or 14 ohm resistor to limit the current. I can't remember where I read it, but the current needs to be limited to around 800 mA. I used a 25W power rating on my resistor. Wire it all up to a 12 volt battery and the injector connector. I didn't worry about the polarity.

Now get a 12" length of 3/8" fuel line and hose-clamp it to the injector inlet. Fill the hose full of a carb cleaner. I used Berryman's and Gumout. Now jury-rig a compressed air supply to the other end of the 3/8" fuel hose. I set it at about 80 psi.

Now you have pressurized solvent in the injector. It shouldn't leak at this point. Press and hold the momentary switch; you should get spray from the injector. Note the spray pattern. It will probably be "stringy" and not consistent. Fill up your fuel hose again and repeat until you have a consistent spray pattern. I repeated this process 3 times on each injector, to get a consistent spray pattern.

I realize this is a crude setup, but it is effective and I used what I had in the garage for parts and material. When it came time to start the engine, it started immediately and settled down to a smooth idle.

I've been riding the bike daily until just a couple of weeks ago, as it is really too cold in the mornings for a 30 mi. commute to work.

Again, this is a labor-intensive deal that you might not want to undertake; however, it worked for me.

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