I'm looking for some advice on trans & final drive service (2007 K1200LT). I've changed engine oil several times with no real issues, but have not tackled the trans & final drive. I am still intimidated by the engineering. These were both performed at the 24K service at SE Michigan BMW (great dealership) and since I've moved to the Houston area. I think it's time to save the $$$ and the closest dealer isn't close. Here are my questions:
1) What gear oil should I run?
2) Do trans & FD use the same lube and should I make the trip to a BMW store and buy BMW products. I have seen several posts for motor oil and see several using automotive oils (Mobil 1 etc). Can regular gear lube be used?
3) What time & surprises should I expect first time?

Thanks for the help, I am always amazed at the knowledge and information available through this community.

Fred
The Woodlands, TX

I’ll start with the most important aspect…


Having just been down the road of gearbox & clutch replacement, FD removal and installation. It really was an eye opener as to how easy and well thought out the scooter was to work on. I am by no means a wrench turner by trade. This was the first time I’ve opened anything up to that extent. As a first timer, I’d suggest you support your local “NON” dealer. Namely, Beemerboneyard.com HERE has everything you’ll need for a 12/24K service in one package. No, drive to the dealer, where they tell you that they have to special order it. I have used them almost exclusively because their price and service as well as quality seem to be top notch. Something we expect of the stealers but rarely get.
1) What gear oil should I run? 75W90 syn or dino personal preference. I will say that if you run synthetic in an older (mine, she’s a Y2K) you may develop a slow leak in the seals (GB/FD)…no real issue as long as you watch it.
2) Do trans & FD use the same lube? Yip, no difference. You’ll find everyone has his or her own preference when it comes to oil. Pick what you want/like/have history with. Just make sure it meets the old gals expectations.
3) What time & surprises should I expect first time? Get a Clymer or a BMW repair manual (they can be downloaded on-line) or PM your email address, I’ll send it to you) (no comments from the asylum, needed ) Depending on your particulars basic Tupperware removal is definite. It’s all pretty straight forward. If you get in a bind, post and we will come…

The picture below is how far you will have traveled down the rabbit hole!
well maybe not quite that far... but close....

Attached Thumbnails

 

__________________
Hoss
'00- K1200LTE- "Barbara"
MOA# 143004

I never came close to tearing mine down that far for a gearbox, FD oil and engine oil change!!! Sho likes to get a GOOD look at what he's working on.

Just a couple things to watch out for. You will need a 3/8" or 1/2" drive hex wrench in size 14mm or 9/16" in order to remove the plug on the transmission. Either one will work. Also, make sure you have a torque wrench so that everything settles in just right.

I used Royal Purple gear lube purchased at my local independent parts house for less than $15 per quart. 1 quart is enough. If you fill the gear box and FD to the proper levels you will still have a couple ozs. left.

It really is easy to do but I really appreciated having y Haynes manual handy.The gear box is only a tiny bit tricky in that you have to remove the exhaust hanger in order to get to the gearbox fill plug. Easy to do, and great pictures in the Haynes. The FD is dirt bag easy. The only trick is to have a container close to9 the bottom plug so that when you open it fluid doesn't spill all over and make a mess.

Just thought of one other tool that makes the job just plain pleasant. Get a MC lifting table. Your back will thank you forever and so will your knees!

Good luck and have fun!

Loren

__________________
WAK1200LT
Loren

I bought my first LT with out looking into the maintenance costs, major sticker shock when I did. I heard about the maintenance video's made by Paul
Sayegh and bought the first one and once I watched it I immediately bought the rest of the series. They are great. He's walks you through just about everything. After that all I had to do was buy a few tools that I didn't have and start turning wrenches.

http://www.sayegh.org/bmw/service-video.htm

__________________
Bob Brendel
05 LT, Light Metallic Yellow
99 LT, Totaled 3/09
97 HD Former Work Bike
88 GL1500
84 GL1200
S3 400 Kaw, too long ago to remember the year
175 Yamaha even longer

People sleep peaceably in their beds at night

Only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf

George Orwell

i change my final drive gear oil every oil change. i'm do to tackle the transmission fluid, but i haven't done it yet. i usually do my trans fluid every second oil change. i heard the trans. fluid is a snap also. same fluid.

If you have never done them the best advice I can give is always open the FILLER port before you drain the fluid. It is real hard to turn the bike upside down to re-fill if you can't get it open.


It also make the outflow a smoother stream which cuts down on spilling. And yes the first time you do the tranny the fluid will go where you least expect it.

__________________
John
2009 R1200GS
2005 Ocean Blue Blue Wizard
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
1976 Suzuki GT750
K4AN


CCR 06 Braselton CCR 07 Osage Beach CCR 08 Midway
CCR 09 Rapid City CCR 10 Killington, VT Can't Wait
Tech Commitee Chair

One final item you will need for the transmission fluid change is a funnel to direct the fluid into a catch container. What works great is to cut a quart sized oil container vertically in half. It fits perfectly in the limited space you have under the drain plug and the screw top neck becomes the end of the funnel. I went with Mobil 1 synthetic when I changed the fluid on my '07 LT and noticed in immediate improvement in the smoothness of the shift. Good luck!

__________________
To know one life has breathed easier because you lived...this is to have succeeded.

Current Ride: '07 K1200LT

Just don't drop the drain plug in it or it will block the mouth of the bottle, then guess what happens to the oil. BTDT.

__________________
John
2009 R1200GS
2005 Ocean Blue Blue Wizard
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
1976 Suzuki GT750
K4AN


CCR 06 Braselton CCR 07 Osage Beach CCR 08 Midway
CCR 09 Rapid City CCR 10 Killington, VT Can't Wait
Tech Commitee Chair

My local BMW dealer gets $21.00 for an oil filter. I can get a six pack of bosch oil filters from Rock Auto for $27.00 and that includes shipping. Check out their website.

Kurt

If you can change the oil and filter then you can change the transmission and final drive. Wealth of information here (with pics!). Look and see if anyone is having a tech session in your area; seeing it done always helps.

Best of luck!

__________________
Adam Brown
2006 K1200LT Ocean Blue, the plastic-wrapped brick
Gainesville, Florida

"The vote is the outward expression of morality."
- Martin Luther King, Jr

Wanna keep your garage floor lookin' spiffy, drop by Wal-Mart and in the pet section, pick up a 24-count package of puppy training pads. One or two under the scoot will catch most 'awchits'!! And folks use a variety of measuring tools for the oil and lube, I use a coupla baby bottles, with the nipples trimmed slightly. They are way easy to measure oz/ml and insert into the fill hole for the tranny and the rear drive.

Good luck and welcome to Tejas and the LT visitation playground!

__________________
Cheers


Dick
Boerne, TXican

+ 1 on the baby bottles


Also I use a piece of Celotex Insulating Sheathing under my motorcycle to catch the drippin's . I got a 4x8 sheet of 1/2 Celotex , & cut it in to 16"x36" piece's ...or so ... The stuff really sucks up oil . One piece lasts a long long time .

I had a piece of it under my R1100GS when I was changing the oil . I was done draining the oil , so I took the drain pan out . Then I put a qt. in . No catch pan , &...no drain plug , then my wife say's soups on ...Well ,I didn't notice my Bobu .... So I go in to eat , come out after to finish the job .... Well ...I find the drain plug and go ....shoot-E-Darn ... As it turned out the Celotex sucked up the hole qt. . Not a drop on the flour .

__________________
Patric Blackman
2002 K1200LT/Hannigan2+2
1995 R1100GS...1987 Helix...
AMA Charter Lifemember
25 Year Member of both BMWMOA & BMWRA

Thanks for all of the good advice. I will try to tackle it this weekend, although the weather looks like it's more like riding weather! I had a Clymers manual, but haven't found it after the move.

A few additional questions:
I have about 5K left on my warranty. Will running non BMW lubes affect the warranty? I used to run AmsOil in V-twins with good results, but never see much about it here in Beemer land. Is Mobil 1 just an engine oil option, or trans & FD compatible? will the front of the hydroelectric center stand need to be removed to get to the tranny drain plug.

Again, thanks for all the support & suggestions. I really like the site and am awed by the amount of knowledge and friendly sharing. It's obvious this is a RIDRES forum and that is great. I will report back with my results.

FK

I

To answer your question, use of fluids other than BMW will not alter your warranty coverage. The only exception would be if for some reason BMW could prove it was the fluids that caused a failure. This is the same in automotive warranties.

One other consideration regarding synthetic fluids. BMW recommends waiting until around 18K before switching to synthetic oil. This gives the rings adequate time to seat. I mention this because I notice you have an '07 LT, but you didn't mention how many miles you have on it.

__________________
To know one life has breathed easier because you lived...this is to have succeeded.

Current Ride: '07 K1200LT

Thanks I have just over 30,000 great miles. Switching to synthetic shouldn't be a problem.

I use AmsOil in the FD and transmission, good old fashioned Dino Castrol 20-50w or 10-40w in winter.

While I am a Synth fan I also question the need on a water cooled motor, and more so on the seals in these bikes. I was going to change to synth at 18K but have since dropped that plan as an experiment in seal life with Dino. Also using Dino I can afford to change every 3000 miles which to some is excessive, but to me not at all.

Go for the services they are not that bad, FD is cake, Oil can be messy unless you use the loosen while holding in place, and crack a corner to control flow, Tranny, the exhaust bracket is a pain the first time and having some kind of tray to direct flow. I use tin foil to make a tray. Others the oil filter box and many other things.

John is correct in removing the fills before the drains, both for better flow on drain and to be sure you do not have to turn your bike upside down to fill.

Take it out for a good long ride, bring it home and drop the fluids hot.

My bike has not seen a dealer since the 600 mile and even then they only wanted to change the oil, I had them do the FD and Tranny too. Break in is break in, could not imagine doing them too to get manufacturing particles out.

Go for it, it is rewarding and saves you big money.

__________________
Lee
O7 Biarritz Blue Metallic LT
BMW MOA #135959