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Weep Hole Drilling Video

72K views 89 replies 48 participants last post by  sailor 
#1 · (Edited)
Many of you at CCR last year saw the Weep Hole Drilling Video that Dan Sullivan and I put together at STC last April. I have added a few things that we were not able to film at the time and a few tool tips as well. The Video is broken up into three parts Weep A, B and C. "A" gets you to the slave. "B" covers drilling the weep hole and "C" takes you through reassembly of the bike.

Here is the links to each of the videos:
Part 1

Part 2

Part 3

They are still fairly large files 250, 140, and 201 Mb but a high speed connection should have no trouble. If there is some one out there that really needs this and has a slow dial up PM me for alternatives.


I also highly recommend you download Kevin Cook's instructions that we used during the filming. You can find them here:
Slave Drilling Procedure

I had fun doing this and have learned a bit about video editing at the same time. We plan to film a brake flush this year at STC and will include segments for the three brake variants on the LT. Hope you enjoy the videos.
 
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#28 ·
If you have a leak in the clutch, fluid has to go somewhere. I saw the videos and it took the scariness out of getting to the slave Thanks so much. However when I took the slave off there was not enough fluid to make up for what was gone from the reservoir.
Where else would it leak and would I see it show somewhere?
Sorry if this sounds like a novice question this is my first bmw had if for a week and already having clutch issue on first real check out drive. had to drive it back home about 70 miles without a clutch, oh what fun!!
My question is this where could the fluid go?
If it gets by the shaft seal at the clutch slave I obviously replace the seal but do I have to get to the clutches to get the fluid out of there? I will also replace the slave or should I? How do you know for sure its bad?
I hope I explained my dilemma correctly! Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Willie
2000 K1200LT 56k miles
 
#29 ·
If the fluid was brake fluid then the slave should be changed as well as the oil seal in the transmission. If it was oil from the transmission and it got on the slave, the slave should be changed as the fluids and seals are not compatible. If you pulled the release rod out and there was no fluid on it then you main leak is else where. Either along one of the lines or at either end.
 
#31 · (Edited)
Thanks for the reply! There was some fluid in the slave cylinder hole when I pulled it out but the shaft didn't really seem wet. The fluid didn't have a smell that I could tell. Though I did think I smelled tranny fluid somewhere, when I put my finger in the fluid and tried to smell it I got nothing I could tell.
I found the slave cylinder for it on the beemer bonyard site but can't find the seal.
Do you know a good place online I can order it from?
Thanks a lot I really appreciate the help
So glad there are places like this to get help with these things!!

Willie
 
#32 ·
The two on-line Dealers I have used are Chicago BMW and Max BMW.


Part number is:
23127705085 SHAFT SEAL, DRIVE SHAFT - 17X28X70.01 1 $13.05
 
#34 ·
Well I got her all back together and so far so good. I used the video's to disassemble and replace the seal and slave and also of course drill the weep hole. That was a scary part worrying about the right placement of the hole. There was a bit of yelling between my son and I when we reassembled it. The drive shaft and final drive where the bears but that was mainly due to no visibility. Thanks to the little hints on the video though like the rag under the shaft as you put the final drive yoke/shaft into the drive shaft and indexing it. We made our own tool for the torquing part. Bleeding the clutch was the last thing and not sure if we got it right but we found the bleeder on the right side under the bottom half of the tubberware. didn't have a bleeder valve to screw into it so we just used a pin to depress the little bearing and it started to work. Bleeding it like we do brakes pumping the clutch lever a few times and pushing the bearing in to release the pressure. It took a few times but its working.
One thing we did mess up is the heater wires for the left handle grip! Anyone familiar with replacing the heated grips?
Anyway I wish to thank the people on this forum for all the info you give! fi I meet anyone that helped me in the future I owe you a beer!
Now if it would just heat up a tiny bit so I can get some more seat time life will be as it should be!!

Willie :bmw:
 
#36 ·
John,
awesome video. my bike is apart for winter maintenance/valve check/new shocks.. etc.
good excuse to drill the weep hole.
the video was a nice guide. great quality and liked the additional edits.

the only critism is the chit chat in the background. I do realize it was a public gathering... but it was distracting none the less.

again, awesome video....
if done in a quite environment, I believe you could sell these videos.
I think they are much better than other bmw tutorial videos I have seen in the past.

:toast:
 
#38 ·
I just checked and they open up into a media player on my computer. Try a "right click" and "save as..." to down load it to your machine. Then you can sort out what you might need to view the file.
 
#40 ·
rdwalker said:
John, excellent job!

Of course, I still think you were cheating. I watched these diligently up to the point where you were breaking the pivot bolts loose. As you remember, that is what had me stymied a couple of weeks ago - I fought with the pivots, broke several sockets, trashed the 14mm heads and gave up for this riding season.

How the heck did you get these out so easily? :confused: It's a conspiracy!

Anyway, I'll try next off-season again. I took note of your hint about the flank-drive socket for the pivots - although I will have to use an easy-out on one that I mangled.

Also, I really liked your FD stand. That sure beats my method: laying under the bike, struggling with the FD, cursing profusely... :eek:

Thanks again.
Hi don't feel bad happened to me on my LT had to drill it out .came up with a solution for the next time , made a special socket that fits over the hex and rides on the diameter of the bolt . more or less took a sleeve and weled it to a 14 mm socket helps to keep the socket on the hex Interested? Dennis.
 
#41 ·
dad659 said:
Hi don't feel bad happened to me on my LT had to drill it out .came up with a solution for the next time , made a special socket that fits over the hex and rides on the diameter of the bolt . more or less took a sleeve and weled it to a 14 mm socket helps to keep the socket on the hex Interested? Dennis.
got a picture? :corn:
 
#43 ·
wa1200lt said:
For the clutch slave you pretty much have to follow the videos. In order to gain access to the clutch slave and to pinpoint the right place to drill the hole it all has to come off. Not such a bad job to do though. Just make sure you have the 30 mm window socket in hand before you start the job. Its a must have

Loren

Ok I'll bite, where do I get a 30mm 'window' socket? Or do I make one? You'rs looked like da bomb!
 
#44 ·
You can order the tool from BMW $$$$$$. Buy a 30 mm socket (< $15)and have a machine shop cut the opening or do it yourself with a cut off tool (or dremel with a carbide cut off disc). I had access to a friendly machinist for mine.
 
#45 ·
jzeiler said:
No BMW has never acknowledged this procedure. It does not garantee a fail safe clutch either as there are engine and front transmission seals that come into play (this area was dry during my clutch change). All it does is give you an inspection port to see when either the slave or the rear input shaft seal are leaking so you can take steps to fix them before they take out the clutch.
The procedure is the same for all model years.
Oh how I thank you Mr. Zeiler. I just found this thread and have not visited the videos yet. But I was wondering if this procedure also works on K1100 LT's - specifically a 1993.

I will do this procedure on my K12 but my K11 already has a slipping clutch and I have not had the time to get into it.

Thanks in advance
Jonny Oliver
Concord, NC
 
#46 ·
Can't say for sure as I am not that familiar with the 1100. If it is already slipping this does you no good any way. This is just a way to keep an eye on slave condition and hope fully catch it before it becomes a problem.
 
#47 ·
What per centage of LT's at which mileage would you guess would fall prey to such clutch destroying issues? If you don't mind. Greg.
 
#48 ·
No definative data. All this does is give a leaking slave cylinder some where to dump the fluid besides into the clutch. If you use it as a preventative measure then you need to inspect the hole periodically for evidence of leakage. At least when you perform the procedure you will see the condition of the slave and the rear tranny input shaft seal.

Prior to this there was a recommendation to replace the slave @ 60K. This was one engineer's idea based on the small diameter throwout bearing. The failure of this bearing will cause the slave cylinder piston to spin and destroy the seal. BMW, of course, says nothing on the matter.
 
#49 ·
I think that I'll make that hole drilling a project for next winter. You obviously have quite a respect for these machines. Knowing as much about them as you clearly seem to, it is quite an advantage to the rest of us to get this much of your personal, "recreational" time. Thanks again, Greg.
 
#50 ·
I am a mechanic by trade on cars, trucks and heavy equipment. Novices should take note of some great work habits in these videos. Cleaning and inspecting the surfaces of parts for possible signs of trouble or other issues is one of the nicest things featured in the videos. He doesn't bring alot of attention to it, but stops and examines each part during disassembly.This gives you time to gather needed parts, and be confident when it's reassembled that it's road worthy. If you don't take the time to do it right, you will be making the time to do it twice! Proper torques and lube applied only where (and as much as) needed also. Very entertaining. I appreciate the tip regarding the valve grinding compound to "tighten up" a slightly sloppy hex head. Thanks!
 
#51 ·
Thanks, I appreciate the compliments. Always trying to do better. And this was the first video ever filmed by the camera man (and me to do).
 
#52 ·
What a great Video!!! I have to do the main seal on my k1200gt and this covers well over half of what I am going to have to do.
My question is should this be done on a 2003 k1200gt? I'm thinking yes, but better safe to ask.
Any chance you are going to do a main seal video before this weekend? :histerica

Just to throw it out there, any specialty tools I am going to need for my job? I am making the 30mm socket for 12mm hex key tonight. I will use a socket with tape for seal depth. I understand a tool to line up the clutch is needed, and maybe something to press the main seal?
Thanks again for the great video. If I can get my camera to work I will tape my main seal job.
 
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