Hard wired audio with pictures - BMW Luxury Touring Community
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post #1 of 50 Old Feb 15th, 2014, 12:57 am Thread Starter
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Hard wired audio with pictures

I picked up my Quartz Blue Metallic today. I really like the color. I looks like a bluish gray. Pictures on the internet make it looks lighter in color than it is in person. As soon as I got it home I went to work hard wiring the audio.

I tapped into the output from the Alpine headed back to the speakers. The Alpine is located under the passenger seat. I bought a audio extension cable from Radio Shack and cut off the male end leaving about a 20 inch length (I know, cutting off the male end does not paint a pleasant picture). I peeled back some of the sheath freeing up about 2 or three inches of wire. There is a red, black, and uncovered ground. Ignore the shielding. remove about a quarter inch of insulation from the red and black wires. I added white shrink wrap to the ground wire.

Color codes: red goes to right speaker
black goes to left speaker
white goes to ground (it is uninsulated until I make it white)

Color codes for the wires coming out of the Alpine unit:
Left spkr + =yellow w/ brown stripe. Connect to black wire of audio cable
Left spkr - = yellow w/ red stripe. Connect to white gnd of audio cable
Right spkr + =blue w/ brown stripe. Connect to red wire of audio cable
Right spkr - = blue w/ red stripe. Connect to white gnd of audio cable

The ground wire in the audio gets connected in a Y configuration branching into two positaps that go to yellow w/red and blue w/red.

That's it!

It is easier to connect the positaps if you unscrew the gray end and come up from the bottom of the Alpine plug inserting the plug wire into the slit in the positap cap then screw the barrel on to pierce the wire. Do this for each plug wire before connecting the audio cable wires into the other end. Push the audio wires into the positap screw on cap at the other end of the barrel and make sure that all of the wires are snug. One positap will have two ground wires going into itso that it can split out to both speaker ground wires. Rout the audio wire to wherever you want it to exit.

Remember the speakers are still connected when you are using your earbuds. Turn the volume way down so you do not blow out your ears. You won't even hear the speakers. You only need a couple of clicks on the volume control. If you want to you can put an extension with an inline volume control in so that you can use more of the volume range of the wonder wheel. I did not because that has other side effects like raising the speaker volume when you dial up the volume for your earbuds.
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post #2 of 50 Old Feb 15th, 2014, 6:41 am
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Re: Hard wired audio with pictures

Yep it is a very easy job. I did the same to my K1600GTL 2 1/2 years ago. The only difference is I connected at the speakers so I could unplug the speakers. I do not want any sound from the bike speakers.
Thanks for the picture it will help others down the road.

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post #3 of 50 Old Mar 1st, 2014, 9:22 pm
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Re: Hard wired audio with pictures

Thanks for this. I installed my J&M intercom/cb today and will tap into the speakers when it gets warmer.

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post #4 of 50 Old Mar 4th, 2014, 7:11 pm
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Re: Hard wired audio with pictures

Quote:
Originally Posted by Corvallis View Post
Color codes: red goes to right speaker
black goes to left speaker
white goes to ground (it is uninsulated until I make it white)

Color codes for the wires coming out of the Alpine unit:
Left spkr + =yellow w/ brown stripe. Connect to black wire of audio cable
Left spkr - = yellow w/ red stripe. Connect to white gnd of audio cable
Right spkr + =blue w/ brown stripe. Connect to red wire of audio cable
Right spkr - = blue w/ red stripe. Connect to white gnd of audio cable

The ground wire in the audio gets connected in a Y configuration branching into two positaps that go to yellow w/red and blue w/red.

That's it!
Oh, thank you, thank you, thank you.

I love my new 2014 RT but with all the stuff they managed to add to an already good bike, you think they would have put a simple "audio out" plug on it somewhere!!!

You have undoubtedly saved me many agonizing nights trying to figure out a way to get my trusty, noise cancelling ear buds to work with the new bike.

AD

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post #5 of 50 Old Mar 5th, 2014, 12:29 am Thread Starter
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Re: Hard wired audio with pictures

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Originally Posted by ADulay View Post
Oh, thank you, thank you, thank you.

I love my new 2014 RT but with all the stuff they managed to add to an already good bike, you think they would have put a simple "audio out" plug on it somewhere!!!

You have undoubtedly saved me many agonizing nights trying to figure out a way to get my trusty, noise cancelling ear buds to work with the new bike.

AD
Happy to be able to give back on behalf of all of the help I have gotten from posters

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post #6 of 50 Old Mar 5th, 2014, 2:46 am
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Re: Hard wired audio with pictures

Wondering why the need to tap the wires on Alpine plug for audio out on 2014 RT. On 2010- 2013 RT there is a cable with a 4 pole plug that provides audio signal. Get the bmw part 83300413584( rear speaker cable) and connect the audio jack.

2014rt doesn't have this rear speaker cable?
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post #7 of 50 Old Mar 5th, 2014, 3:03 am Thread Starter
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Re: Hard wired audio with pictures

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Originally Posted by Throttle View Post
Wondering why the need to tap the wires on Alpine plug for audio out on 2014 RT. On 2010- 2013 RT there is a cable with a 4 pole plug that provides audio signal. Get the bmw part 83300413584( rear speaker cable) and connect the audio jack.

2014rt doesn't have this rear speaker cable?
I did not see such a cable. I will check that out.

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post #8 of 50 Old Mar 5th, 2014, 8:07 am
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Re: Hard wired audio with pictures

Quote:
Originally Posted by Corvallis View Post
Color codes for the wires coming out of the Alpine unit:
Left spkr + =yellow w/ brown stripe. Connect to black wire of audio cable
Left spkr - = yellow w/ red stripe. Connect to white gnd of audio cable
Right spkr + =blue w/ brown stripe. Connect to red wire of audio cable
Right spkr - = blue w/ red stripe. Connect to white gnd of audio cable

.....
First, thanks for this data! However, I suspect that you have the +ve and -ve ID reversed, just based on the fact that European countries standardized on reserving the color brown for ground (earth). Therefore, I suspect that anything with brown will be the -ve. It is irrelevant if the radio runs separate ground for each channel, but if the ground is common from the radio, then you will end up with mono sound out of your ear-bud instead of stereo.

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Solon, OH, USA

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post #9 of 50 Old Mar 5th, 2014, 10:04 am Thread Starter
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Re: Hard wired audio with pictures

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Originally Posted by PadG View Post
First, thanks for this data! However, I suspect that you have the +ve and -ve ID reversed, just based on the fact that European countries standardized on reserving the color brown for ground (earth). Therefore, I suspect that anything with brown will be the -ve. It is irrelevant if the radio runs separate ground for each channel, but if the ground is common from the radio, then you will end up with mono sound out of your ear-bud instead of stereo.
Hmmm... When I get a chance I will have to check this out. I did not know about the European thing. Since they are connected to speakers I suppose that they could be reversed and it not be obvious except by the mono thing. Anyone using this info could check by reversing the leads if you desire.

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post #10 of 50 Old Mar 5th, 2014, 11:23 am
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Re: Hard wired audio with pictures

I hope to do this soon and will run it to ground pardon the pun.

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post #11 of 50 Old Mar 5th, 2014, 1:34 pm
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Re: Hard wired audio with pictures

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Originally Posted by PadG View Post
It is irrelevant if the radio runs separate ground for each channel, but if the ground is common from the radio, then you will end up with mono sound out of your ear-bud instead of stereo.
So if I only tap one of the ground wires on the Alpine plug and tap each positive wire will I get stereo sound in my headset? This is my plan unless someone chimes in quick. Thanks.

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post #12 of 50 Old Mar 5th, 2014, 1:49 pm
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Re: Hard wired audio with pictures

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Originally Posted by hammick View Post
So if I only tap one of the ground wires on the Alpine plug and tap each positive wire will I get stereo sound in my headset? This is my plan unless someone chimes in quick. Thanks.
This is just a guess, but you could check it all out before soldering all the connections. If I am correct with the wire color ID assumption, then I would combine the two brown stripes wires and connect them to your ground/shield wire of your ear-bud. The remaining two wires will give you the left and right channel signals.

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post #13 of 50 Old Mar 5th, 2014, 6:22 pm
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Re: Hard wired audio with pictures

Guys somebody smarter than me needs to give us the lowdown on this but I don't think any of these four wires are negatives. I was wiring these into my J&M Intercom and the bike's speakers would not work when I had all four wires connected (I think it was going into a protect mode because positive was getting to ground). It didn't matter if I used the red stripe wires as ground or the brown stripe wires as ground. I put a test light on all four wires and they all lit the test light.

Anyway there is a solid brown wire in this group which I did test and confirmed was ground. Because my J&M is grounded to the bike I didn't need to connect the ground of my J&M audio input. Just left and right and it sounds great.

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post #14 of 50 Old Mar 5th, 2014, 8:08 pm
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Re: Hard wired audio with pictures

[QUOTE=ADulay;868146]Oh, thank you, thank you, thank you.

I love my new 2014 RT but with all the stuff they managed to add to an already good bike, you think they would have put a simple "audio out" plug on it somewhere!!!

You have undoubtedly saved me many agonizing nights trying to figure out a way to get my trusty, noise cancelling ear buds to work with the new bike.

--------
Not to confuse the issue but to offer options, I just finished hard wiring my system today but instead of tapping the speaker into wires from the Alpine unit under the rear seat I tapped into the speaker wires up front behind the speaker grill. I think this resolves the confusion about what is ground.

Only 2 trim screws up front for each speaker trim face, once the trim is off you will see the previously mentioned color coded wires running into the the bottom of a OEM connector. On the topside of the OEM connector are 2 wires, Red for speaker and Blue for ground, this is true for both sides of the bike. The Blue and Red wires then run out the topside of the OEM connector going thru a waterproof grommet to the backside of the Speaker where they connect.

I stripped down my headphone 6 foot Jack cord, 3 wires in the headphone jack cable Black = Left speaker, Red = right speaker and when see the pictures the Green wire is now my ground wire. By my choice I cut the Black ground wire on the headphone jack cable inside the storage compartment and spliced in the heavier gage green wire to use for my ground wire for both speakers. Used a grimped connection and covered the ground wire splice with heat shrink. Pulled the cut end of the 3 wires thru a 1/4 inch waterproof grommet, I had pre drilled a sized hole on the inside of the left tank top storage compartment. I left about 5 or 6 inches of headphone Jack inside the storage compartment, then worked the grommet into the drilled hole.

I first measured twice and cut wires once for my connections on the left side then ran the remaining right side speaker and ground wire for the right side connection under the instrument panel and tie wrapped it to the an existing wiring bundle under the instrument panel.

Made my connections on left side, I use a Y connection on the Green ground wire to the left side speaker connection then out for the right side speaker ground. Made my cuts and connections for the right side then ran a wiring loam from the from the storage compartment to the left side connections that terminate behind speaker trim. Then I ran a loam covering the wires for the right side speaker connections. I could not find Positaps, box connector work more or less the same but do require a little more space. But that is not a problem up front as there is plenty of space behind the speaker trim.

I am not real sure how to upload multiple pictures on this site but if you are interested in this mod message me and I will send you and really high quality photo group showing all the comments and connections.

I now have the ability to use my Klipsch XI 10 earbuds or my whole ear fitted monitors. I like the front location for ease of operation and on and off the bike without complications. I use a very light, small 3 foot coiled cable for my monitors and earbuds connections so it stays mid-chest height and can expand out to about 5 feet without a problem. Or I can run an Audio cable from the connection directly into a line-in connection on my G9X Scala headset. I installed Tork X pro speakers in my helmet huge improvement in the speakers quality and volume. So I now have my iPhone and GPS paired to helmet /Scala G9X with BT audio thru the helmet speakers. I replace the headset speakers with Tork X Pro speakers and the audio quality and volume are much improved. When I hear the incoming GPS message or incoming call I just the tap the Radio's ON switch and it mutes the bike audio. I am not connected to the by bike audio by BT any longer. Options ... I like options. Wiz wheel works ... Life is good.

Audio is much better with this direct setup, BMW BT is just not up to the task, shame on BMW because this is an ongoing issue from the early days of the 1600 GT and GTL on other forums. I have read of the very same issue from a lot of BMW Communicator users so much so I cannot see putting $1200+ for helmet and Communication especially not be able to test drive one first. I was born at night just not last night
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post #15 of 50 Old Mar 5th, 2014, 8:09 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Hard wired audio with pictures

Quote:
Originally Posted by hammick View Post
So if I only tap one of the ground wires on the Alpine plug and tap each positive wire will I get stereo sound in my headset? This is my plan unless someone chimes in quick. Thanks.
No. each speaker needs two wires, one of which is ground. You will only get sound from the one that you connected the ground to. Actually, it is more accurate to refer to these "grounds" as commons.

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post #16 of 50 Old Mar 5th, 2014, 8:20 pm Thread Starter
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PadG is right!

Quote:
Originally Posted by PadG View Post
First, thanks for this data! However, I suspect that you have the +ve and -ve ID reversed, just based on the fact that European countries standardized on reserving the color brown for ground (earth). Therefore, I suspect that anything with brown will be the -ve. It is irrelevant if the radio runs separate ground for each channel, but if the ground is common from the radio, then you will end up with mono sound out of your ear-bud instead of stereo.
I checked PadG's information. The wire connections should be as follows:

Color codes for the wires coming out of the Alpine unit:
Left spkr + =yellow w/ red stripe. Connect to black wire of audio cable
Left spkr - = yellow w/ brown stripe. Connect to white gnd of audio cable
Right spkr + =blue w/ red stripe. Connect to red wire of audio cable
Right spkr - = blue w/ brown stripe. Connect to white gnd of audio cable

If you hooked them up per my original info it will not hurt anything, but you will get mono only. It is easy to correct the problem if you used Positaps. Just unscrew the end of the Positaps with the audio wires going into them (not the split end that goes over and pierces the wire) and reconnect them per the above information. I verified this. It took three minutes to redo the connection because I took my time. Thanks to PadG for the good catch.

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post #17 of 50 Old Mar 5th, 2014, 9:15 pm
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Re: Hard wired audio with pictures

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Originally Posted by Corvallis View Post
No. each speaker needs two wires, one of which is ground. You will only get sound from the one that you connected the ground to. Actually, it is more accurate to refer to these "grounds" as commons.
OK. So the blue/brown wire and the yellow/brown wire lit up my test probe. Other end of the probe was grounded to the bike. I guess this should be expected if they are actually commons, correct?

What I can't figure out is why attaching the blue/brown and yellow/brown to the ground on my J&M music in cuts the music to the bike's speakers. That's what made me think they weren't really grounds but it sound like it is something else.

All I hooked up was the left and right positive and the music through my intercom sounds great. Does this mean I am only getting mono in my helmet speakers?

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post #18 of 50 Old Mar 5th, 2014, 9:23 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Hard wired audio with pictures

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Originally Posted by hammick View Post
OK. So the blue/brown wire and the yellow/brown wire lit up my test probe. Other end of the probe was grounded to the bike. I guess this should be expected if they are actually commons, correct?

What I can't figure out is why attaching the blue/brown and yellow/brown to the ground on my J&M music in cuts the music to the bike's speakers. That's what made me think they weren't really grounds but it sound like it is something else.

All I hooked up was the left and right positive and the music through my intercom sounds great. Does this mean I am only getting mono in my helmet speakers?
When you say " So the blue/brown wire and the yellow/brown wire lit up my test probe. Other end of the probe was grounded to the bike." are you saying that you showed continuity from bike ground to these wires?

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post #19 of 50 Old Mar 5th, 2014, 9:29 pm
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Re: Hard wired audio with pictures

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Originally Posted by Corvallis View Post
When you say " So the blue/brown wire and the yellow/brown wire lit up my test probe. Other end of the probe was grounded to the bike." are you saying that you showed continuity from bike ground to these wires?
I wasn't using a meter. Just a test light with alligator clip on one end. Grounded the alligator clip to the bike and probed each wire while the stereo was playing and it lit up.

I'm sure you are correct and that it's an issue with the J&M system. The audio in that I am using is supposed to plug into an MP3 player or Iphone.

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post #20 of 50 Old Mar 5th, 2014, 9:40 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Hard wired audio with pictures

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OK. 1. So the blue/brown wire and the yellow/brown wire lit up my test probe. Other end of the probe was grounded to the bike. I guess this should be expected if they are actually commons, correct?

2. What I can't figure out is why attaching the blue/brown and yellow/brown to the ground on my J&M music in cuts the music to the bike's speakers. That's what made me think they weren't really grounds but it sound like it is something else.

3. All I hooked up was the left and right positive and the music through my intercom sounds great. Does this mean I am only getting mono in my helmet speakers?
1. yes, this sounds right

2. That I do not understand. would need more info on the wiring after you hook up.

3. Again not sure why this would work. Your intercom must be supplying a ground connection some other way.

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2012 BMW K1600 GTL - Sold
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post #21 of 50 Old Nov 25th, 2014, 10:55 am
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Re: Hard wired audio with pictures

What size posi taps are needed for this installation?

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post #22 of 50 Old Dec 24th, 2014, 1:13 am
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Re: Hard wired audio with pictures

Well, I finally had it with the poor sounds and the problematic connectivity I had been experiencing with my 2014 BMW RT Bluetooth system! so....

I decided to disconnect the front speakers and use their connections to hardwire a male stereo plug into my SENA SM10 BT streaming module. This was the same setup I had on my 2011 RT and just like on that bike, the audio on my '14 is now sooooo much better! All of the bikes audio controls like the wonder wheel work just like they should....and now, I can actually hear the Nav V which was really distorted using the BMW to SENA SMH10 BT connections. Also, my music sounds much better and I don't get that "over" powering sound from any of my audio inputs! My XM always sounded like it was being over driven and very distorted because of it...is now so much better and sounds like it should in my helmet!

When I was connected through the BMW BT connections to my SENA SMH10 headset, the connection was not too robust....I would always turn on my helmet BT before the bike and sometimes the headset just wouldn't connect to the bike via the BT connection...it was very frustrating so, I decided to setup my '14 RT's audio connections like I had on my '11 RT...

I'm now very happy with my audio setup! I also say "SHAME" on BMW for not putting more emphasis on the quality of their BT system....Such poor quality for such an expensive bike!

Best Regards,
Rangerb3
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post #23 of 50 Old Dec 24th, 2014, 1:14 am
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Re: Hard wired audio with pictures

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What size posi taps are needed for this installation?
The small red ones was what I used....

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post #24 of 50 Old Dec 24th, 2014, 9:02 am
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Re: Hard wired audio with pictures

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Originally Posted by rangerb3 View Post
Well, I finally had it with the poor sounds and the problematic connectivity I had been experiencing with my 2014 BMW RT Bluetooth system! so....

I decided to disconnect the front speakers and use their connections to hardwire a male stereo plug into my SENA SM10 BT streaming module. This was the same setup I had on my 2011 RT and just like on that bike, the audio on my '14 is now sooooo much better! All of the bikes audio controls like the wonder wheel work just like they should....and now, I can actually hear the Nav V which was really distorted using the BMW to SENA SMH10 BT connections. Also, my music sounds much better and I don't get that "over" powering sound from any of my audio inputs! My XM always sounded like it was being over driven and very distorted because of it...is now so much better and sounds like it should in my helmet!

When I was connected through the BMW BT connections to my SENA SMH10 headset, the connection was not too robust....I would always turn on my helmet BT before the bike and sometimes the headset just wouldn't connect to the bike via the BT connection...it was very frustrating so, I decided to setup my '14 RT's audio connections like I had on my '11 RT...

I'm now very happy with my audio setup! I also say "SHAME" on BMW for not putting more emphasis on the quality of their BT system....Such poor quality for such an expensive bike!
Do you have any pictures of how you set it up with the speakers?

Bill Spurgeon
Phoenix, AZ
2016 R1200GSA
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post #25 of 50 Old Dec 24th, 2014, 10:42 pm
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Re: Hard wired audio with pictures

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Originally Posted by Bill View Post
Do you have any pictures of how you set it up with the speakers?
No...but, give me a few days to get over Christmas and I'll get some posted....

Best Regards,
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post #26 of 50 Old Jan 31st, 2015, 6:06 am
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Re: Hard wired audio with pictures

I received a PM today and thought it best to post the PM here and my response so, it will benefit everyone on this thread and/or those that might want to do this after they have had their fill with the shameful BMW BT audio system!

PM message sent to me:

Quote:
Originally Posted by MotoBones
Greetings. I'm a fairly new member of the forum and already am finding useful information. Among the things I want to do with my '14 Quartz Blue is hardwire the audio output as mentioned in this thread: Hard wired audio with pictures The BMW bluetooth comm system leaves much to be desired, especially given the cost. Live and learn.

After reading through the various approaches in that thread, I like your idea of attacking the project from the speakers. You mentioned on you post December 24 that you'd post some pictures. May I respectfully ask that you post them? I'd love to see what I may be getting into. Ideally I'd like to make a pigtail using the same type connector as the speakers use so I can attach a mini-jack for my Klipsch earbuds and remove it without a trace should I ever need to.

Any advice for an RT newbie would be welcomed.

Hi Motobones,
Welcome to the forums...

I tell you, After the first few days of using the BMW BT audio system with my Sena BT headset, I was not happy at all so, I decided to get the new '14 RT audio setup like my '11 RT. I'm now so much happier then before...

I would love to attach pictures if I had them...I did not take any while doing the project so, I don't have any at this time to share. My plan was to pull everything back apart and take some to post up on this thread but, I didn't get around to it before having to leave the US for my work. I will try and get some taken and uploaded when I get home so, unfortunately, I can't help you with pictures...but, I will try and explain in detail what I did if that will help?

As far as using speaker connectors to fit up to the OEM wiring, your probably looking at at least $30 for each speaker...I accomplished the same task by using Posi-Tap connectors. They pierce the oem wiring and can be removed without a trace other than a very small pinhole in the wiring. An Amazon search will give you what you need..I used the small red ones...

First, I removed the speakers grills which only requires removing either 1 or 2 screws. From this point, you can see the three screws that hold the speaker housings into place. Remove these and the speakers come right out of the dash. It's not really that hard or in-depth to get to this point.

The wiring:

I started on the left speaker and disconnected it's oem connector. I tapped the left speaker with a 2ft piece of 2-conductor 20 awg wiring. Not sure what was (+) and (-) but, you can get that info from the thread you referenced above...I ran the wire under the instrument cluster over to the right side speaker. I tapped into the R speaker the same as the L and now I had (2) 2-conductor cables...The 2-conductor wire colors were red/white. I took one of the white conductor wires coming from the left speaker and connected it to the white wire from the right speaker...Now I have two red wires left over...one coming from the right speaker and one coming from the left and then both whites connected together. The white wires are connected to the (-) speaker wires on the left and right sides so, the white is my common negative(-) audio source wire.

In my case, I wanted a male stereo plug to plug into my Sena SM10 BT module to stream BT audio to my Sena headset. So, I bought a stereo extention cord from Radio Shack and cut off the female end. Now I have the male end that I wanted to use for my connections...I stripped the wires and they were black/red/white wires with the black being my left positive(+) audio channel, red being my right positive(+) audio channel, the , and the white being the negative(-) common ground between the right and left audio channels. The stereo connector is wired: tip=black, middle band=red, lower band=white

Now I'm back to my bike...I connect the red wire coming from the left spkr to the black wire on the stereo plug and the red wire coming from the right speaker to the red wire on the audio plug. I connect the two white wires from the left & right speakers to the white wire on the audio plug and now I have a male stereo plug that's tapped into the factory audio wires that I can now plug into my SM10 module....

In your case, you would use the female end that I threw away do accomplish the same task but to be able to plug in your ear buds instead of the SM10 module like I did...You can also find the wiring diagram for the female plug on the internet by doing a Google search or if you know how to use a multi-meter to measure the stripped wires to the tip you can achieve the same results....
jjakusz and MotoBones like this.

Best Regards,
Rangerb3
2014 R1200RT Quarts Met Blue
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post #27 of 50 Old Jan 31st, 2015, 8:15 am
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Thumbs up Re: Hard wired audio with pictures

Thank you, Mike. This is fantastic.

EDIT

Follow up question: Did you tap into the lead wires before they reach the speaker connector (yellow/red and yellow/brown on port side, blue/red and blue/brown on starboard side), or into the wires after they leave the connector and go into the speaker (red and blue on both sides)?

Is there any particular advantage or disadvantage to either approach?

Thanks again.

Last edited by MotoBones; Jan 31st, 2015 at 10:44 am. Reason: Follow up
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post #28 of 50 Old Jan 31st, 2015, 9:26 am
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Re: Hard wired audio with pictures

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Originally Posted by MotoBones View Post
Thank you, Mike. This is fantastic.
You're welcome! I thought this was why we hang out in these forums...To learn & impart to others in need!

Best Regards,
Rangerb3
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post #29 of 50 Old Sep 22nd, 2015, 6:03 pm
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Re: Hard wired audio with pictures

I know this is an old thread, but I did a search on this sight, found this thread and BAM! This is just what I was looking for, great description & pictures. Thanks so much for taking the time and effort to put this together. Worked perfect, took about 20 minutes and the results were perfect!

Thanks again!

Dave

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post #30 of 50 Old Sep 23rd, 2015, 7:52 am
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Re: Hard wired audio with pictures

I don't want to be a funbuster, but have a word of caution on hardwiring the Alpine without ground loop isolators. The Alpine uses a "push-pull" amplifier. In short, wiring into it using a common ground for both channels will create a "when is it going to fail, rather than If it is going to fail" load on the amplifier.

This $69 part is an cheap and easy way to avoid load failure of your $1500 Alpine unit...Bike Audio Speaker Bridge Adapter

It isolates the loops on both channels, connects at the speaker wires exactly as described in this thread, or right off the head unit. it has a switch so you can go from speakers to the jack and back without having both on simultaneously and it fits neatly in either fairing cubby.

There are another couple earlier threads on the "why's" of needing loop isolation with the Alpine unit on the 14's and newer bikes if you want to know more.

Last edited by JonfromCB; Sep 23rd, 2015 at 8:03 am.
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post #31 of 50 Old Sep 23rd, 2015, 8:07 am
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Re: Hard wired audio with pictures

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Originally Posted by hemlockdj View Post
I know this is an old thread, but I did a search on this sight, found this thread and BAM! This is just what I was looking for, great description & pictures. Thanks so much for taking the time and effort to put this together. Worked perfect, took about 20 minutes and the results were perfect!

Thanks again!

Dave
I hope that you had noted that the original wire ID was incorrect, and the correction that I had suggested!

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post #32 of 50 Old Sep 23rd, 2015, 8:21 am
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Re: Hard wired audio with pictures

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I hope that you had noted that the original wire ID was incorrect, and the correction that I had suggested!
I sure did. Thanks.

Dave

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post #33 of 50 Old Sep 23rd, 2015, 9:54 am
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Re: Hard wired audio with pictures

Quote:
Originally Posted by JonfromCB View Post
I don't want to be a funbuster, but have a word of caution on hardwiring the Alpine without ground loop isolators. The Alpine uses a "push-pull" amplifier. In short, wiring into it using a common ground for both channels will create a "when is it going to fail, rather than If it is going to fail" load on the amplifier.

This $69 part is an cheap and easy way to avoid load failure of your $1500 Alpine unit...Bike Audio Speaker Bridge Adapter

It isolates the loops on both channels, connects at the speaker wires exactly as described in this thread, or right off the head unit. it has a switch so you can go from speakers to the jack and back without having both on simultaneously and it fits neatly in either fairing cubby.

There are another couple earlier threads on the "why's" of needing loop isolation with the Alpine unit on the 14's and newer bikes if you want to know more.
Thanks so much for this info. I called and talked to someone at MotoChello, sorry can't remember his name. I ordered the 'audio speaker bridge' from them, so I should be good to go. Thanks again.

Dave

Dave
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2011 R1200GS
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post #34 of 50 Old Sep 23rd, 2015, 10:27 am
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Re: Hard wired audio with pictures

Quote:
Originally Posted by JonfromCB View Post
I don't want to be a funbuster, but have a word of caution on hardwiring the Alpine without ground loop isolators. The Alpine uses a "push-pull" amplifier. In short, wiring into it using a common ground for both channels will create a "when is it going to fail, rather than If it is going to fail" load on the amplifier.

This $69 part is an cheap and easy way to avoid load failure of your $1500 Alpine unit...Bike Audio Speaker Bridge Adapter

It isolates the loops on both channels, connects at the speaker wires exactly as described in this thread, or right off the head unit. it has a switch so you can go from speakers to the jack and back without having both on simultaneously and it fits neatly in either fairing cubby.

There are another couple earlier threads on the "why's" of needing loop isolation with the Alpine unit on the 14's and newer bikes if you want to know more.
Have you installed this, and if so did you do it up front at the speakers or under the seat at the head unit?
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post #35 of 50 Old Sep 23rd, 2015, 10:29 am
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Re: Hard wired audio with pictures

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Originally Posted by hemlockdj View Post
Thanks so much for this info. I called and talked to someone at MotoChello, sorry can't remember his name. I ordered the 'audio speaker bridge' from them, so I should be good to go. Thanks again.

Dave
I was just going to call them, did they verify that this will work on our LC-RT's?

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post #36 of 50 Old Sep 23rd, 2015, 10:58 am
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Re: Hard wired audio with pictures

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I was just going to call them, did they verify that this will work on our LC-RT's?
I will install under the seat as I already have the posi-taps installed there. Yes they confirmed it would work with the RT-LC.

Dave

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post #37 of 50 Old Sep 23rd, 2015, 12:19 pm
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Re: Hard wired audio with pictures

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Originally Posted by ehc0720 View Post
I was just going to call them, did they verify that this will work on our LC-RT's?
Yes, I installed it on my 15 RT. After talking to a couple of guys who do audio installs at two of the larger US BMW dealers, I decided to install off the speakers instead of right off the head unit. Less chance of screwing up the wiring harness due to only a couple of inches available to make all the connections at head...and easier to hide cables behind fairing and run the
switch box to one of the fairing cubbies, where it's also more convenient to change the switch from speakers to the jack, and you don't have the box and jack hanging out from under the seat. There is a grommet in the back of each cubby, so you don't need to drill any additional holes. I just plug my ear set into the jack, run the wire over the handlebars so it won't take a beating, and shut the cubby over the wire. BMW put some nice seals on the cubbies that are thick and pliable and will easily open and close over even a fairly large connection wire. I like having all my external audio stuff in one place (the right cubby) but you can do it either way that suits you.

Also, If anyone want's to know the technical reasons you should use isolation loops, call John at Motocello. He can explain it from an engineers perspective which is more reasonable than taking my word for it. He can also answer any questions you might have.
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post #38 of 50 Old Sep 23rd, 2015, 3:13 pm
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Re: Hard wired audio with pictures

Thanks, I start getting the parts together.
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post #39 of 50 Old Mar 14th, 2016, 8:06 pm
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Re: Hard wired audio with pictures

Good info here. I have a question (a little off topic) - does anyone know how (or if) you can hide the audio display on the 14 RT? I have the background set to speedometer and would like to have that displayed the majority of the time, rather than look at the song that is playing.

Thanks,
Keith.

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post #40 of 50 Old Mar 14th, 2016, 11:46 pm
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Re: Hard wired audio with pictures

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Originally Posted by hkeithmurray View Post
Good info here. I have a question (a little off topic) - does anyone know how (or if) you can hide the audio display on the 14 RT? I have the background set to speedometer and would like to have that displayed the majority of the time, rather than look at the song that is playing.

Thanks,
Keith.
Still waiting for my 16 RT from the Fatherland, but I have seen posted before that when you have the radio on that's what you get in the display. Turning the Radio off you will get your digital speed if you have it selected.

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post #41 of 50 Old Mar 15th, 2016, 8:35 am
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Re: Hard wired audio with pictures

Quote:
Originally Posted by hkeithmurray View Post
Good info here. I have a question (a little off topic) - does anyone know how (or if) you can hide the audio display on the 14 RT? I have the background set to speedometer and would like to have that displayed the majority of the time, rather than look at the song that is playing.

Thanks,
Keith.
Sorry, but as far as I know, that is not possible! I wouldn't mind having the feature that you are seeking, myself!

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post #42 of 50 Old Mar 17th, 2016, 12:20 am
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Re: Hard wired audio with pictures

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but I have seen posted before that when you have the radio on that's what you get in the display. Turning the Radio off you will get your digital speed if you have it selected.
Yes, that's how it works...You can't turn off the audio screen when the audio system is turned "on." The only way you are going to get the speedometer screen is if the audio system is turned off!
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post #43 of 50 Old Mar 17th, 2016, 8:30 am
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Re: Hard wired audio with pictures

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Originally Posted by Throttle View Post
Wondering why the need to tap the wires on Alpine plug for audio out on 2014 RT. On 2010- 2013 RT there is a cable with a 4 pole plug that provides audio signal. Get the bmw part 83300413584( rear speaker cable) and connect the audio jack.

2014rt doesn't have this rear speaker cable?
A little help please! I want to do the same thing on my 2012 rt. My dealer gave me this cable to connect to the plug located behind the front right fairing, but i cant figure out which is the L/R and negs. Can you?

thanks
'
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post #44 of 50 Old Mar 17th, 2016, 8:33 am
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Re: Hard wired audio with pictures

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Thanks for this. I installed my J&M intercom/cb today and will tap into the speakers when it gets warmer.
Check with J&M to see if they have a interface that will work on the RT. On my GTL I have an interface that goes between the speakers and the CB.


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post #45 of 50 Old Apr 17th, 2016, 2:38 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonfromCB View Post
Yes, I installed it on my 15 RT. After talking to a couple of guys who do audio installs at two of the larger US BMW dealers, I decided to install off the speakers instead of right off the head unit. Less chance of screwing up the wiring harness due to only a couple of inches available to make all the connections at head...and easier to hide cables behind fairing and run the
switch box to one of the fairing cubbies, where it's also more convenient to change the switch from speakers to the jack, and you don't have the box and jack hanging out from under the seat. There is a grommet in the back of each cubby, so you don't need to drill any additional holes. I just plug my ear set into the jack, run the wire over the handlebars so it won't take a beating, and shut the cubby over the wire. BMW put some nice seals on the cubbies that are thick and pliable and will easily open and close over even a fairly large connection wire. I like having all my external audio stuff in one place (the right cubby) but you can do it either way that suits you.

Also, If anyone want's to know the technical reasons you should use isolation loops, call John at Motocello. He can explain it from an engineers perspective which is more reasonable than taking my word for it. He can also answer any questions you might have.

Ok here is my delim, my bike 14 RT LC tried wiring into speakers had odd sound in my earbuds only, echo like seems to be missing a channel, so then tried wiring directly off the alpine unit as posted here, same effect, so then I disconnected both the grounds from the post taps seems much better, but cannot tell if the sound is just mono or separate left and right channels. Also how on earth can I hear anything if both grounds are disconnected? This makes no sence to me knowing each speaker will have a + & -. ? So I went ahead and ordered the suggested box from the bike place to hopefully eliminate any possible future problems - but can anyone tell me just how the earbuds will work at at all with no ground connections?
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post #46 of 50 Old Apr 18th, 2016, 8:00 am
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Re: Hard wired audio with pictures Help with wiring

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Originally Posted by chrism3 View Post
Ok here is my delim, my bike 14 RT LC tried wiring into speakers had odd sound in my earbuds only, echo like seems to be missing a channel, so then tried wiring directly off the alpine unit as posted here, same effect, so then I disconnected both the grounds from the post taps seems much better, but cannot tell if the sound is just mono or separate left and right channels. Also how on earth can I hear anything if both grounds are disconnected? This makes no sence to me knowing each speaker will have a + & -. ? So I went ahead and ordered the suggested box from the bike place to hopefully eliminate any possible future problems - but can anyone tell me just how the earbuds will work at at all with no ground connections?
I am very suspicious of the conductors that you called ground? What are the colors? I haven't done the connection myself, but I know that several others have done it without any issues. I suggest that you go back to the first post for the conductor color ID, and then make sure that you continue scrolling down to see where I correct the OP regarding his ID of the ground conductors! Read on from there, and you will learn more.

FYI, a typical earbud will utilize 3 conductors. One each for the +ve of the left and right channel, and the -ve of both channels are combined into the common conductor.

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post #47 of 50 Old Apr 18th, 2016, 10:43 am
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Re: Hard wired audio with pictures Help with wiring

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Originally Posted by chrism3 View Post
Ok here is my delim, my bike 14 RT LC tried wiring into speakers had odd sound in my earbuds only, echo like seems to be missing a channel, so then tried wiring directly off the alpine unit as posted here, same effect, so then I disconnected both the grounds from the post taps seems much better, but cannot tell if the sound is just mono or separate left and right channels. Also how on earth can I hear anything if both grounds are disconnected? This makes no sence to me knowing each speaker will have a + & -. ? So I went ahead and ordered the suggested box from the bike place to hopefully eliminate any possible future problems - but can anyone tell me just how the earbuds will work at at all with no ground connections?
chrism3, The Alpine unit uses a "push/pull" or "to and from" amplifier circuit to each channel. There is not the traditional stereo "common ground" to each channel. So, when you connect both loops (channels) to a traditional three way, Left/Right common ground connector (as I suspect you are doing) you will loose true stereo and often (due to improper impedance match between amp and earbuds) you get that high pitched, carnival calliope echo sound you describe.

The Motochello unit is switched. It will turn-off the speakers, isolate both loops (left and right channels) and balance the impedance down for earbuds/and or headset speakers....problem solved, left and right channel circuits balanced and isolated from each other, and amplifer is protected from cross wiring what most people think are left and right channel ground wires.

If you use high quality earbuds, you'll be amazed by the quality of sound the alpine provides.

Last edited by JonfromCB; Apr 18th, 2016 at 11:18 am.
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post #48 of 50 Old Jan 20th, 2017, 6:48 am
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Re: Hard wired audio with pictures

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I received a PM today and thought it best to post the PM here and my response so, it will benefit everyone on this thread and/or those that might want to do this after they have had their fill with the shameful BMW BT audio system!

PM message sent to me:


Hi Motobones,
Welcome to the forums...

I tell you, After the first few days of using the BMW BT audio system with my Sena BT headset, I was not happy at all so, I decided to get the new '14 RT audio setup like my '11 RT. I'm now so much happier then before...

I would love to attach pictures if I had them...I did not take any while doing the project so, I don't have any at this time to share. My plan was to pull everything back apart and take some to post up on this thread but, I didn't get around to it before having to leave the US for my work. I will try and get some taken and uploaded when I get home so, unfortunately, I can't help you with pictures...but, I will try and explain in detail what I did if that will help?

As far as using speaker connectors to fit up to the OEM wiring, your probably looking at at least $30 for each speaker...I accomplished the same task by using Posi-Tap connectors. They pierce the oem wiring and can be removed without a trace other than a very small pinhole in the wiring. An Amazon search will give you what you need..I used the small red ones...

First, I removed the speakers grills which only requires removing either 1 or 2 screws. From this point, you can see the three screws that hold the speaker housings into place. Remove these and the speakers come right out of the dash. It's not really that hard or in-depth to get to this point.

The wiring:

I started on the left speaker and disconnected it's oem connector. I tapped the left speaker with a 2ft piece of 2-conductor 20 awg wiring. Not sure what was (+) and (-) but, you can get that info from the thread you referenced above...I ran the wire under the instrument cluster over to the right side speaker. I tapped into the R speaker the same as the L and now I had (2) 2-conductor cables...The 2-conductor wire colors were red/white. I took one of the white conductor wires coming from the left speaker and connected it to the white wire from the right speaker...Now I have two red wires left over...one coming from the right speaker and one coming from the left and then both whites connected together. The white wires are connected to the (-) speaker wires on the left and right sides so, the white is my common negative(-) audio source wire.

In my case, I wanted a male stereo plug to plug into my Sena SM10 BT module to stream BT audio to my Sena headset. So, I bought a stereo extention cord from Radio Shack and cut off the female end. Now I have the male end that I wanted to use for my connections...I stripped the wires and they were black/red/white wires with the black being my left positive(+) audio channel, red being my right positive(+) audio channel, the , and the white being the negative(-) common ground between the right and left audio channels. The stereo connector is wired: tip=black, middle band=red, lower band=white

Now I'm back to my bike...I connect the red wire coming from the left spkr to the black wire on the stereo plug and the red wire coming from the right speaker to the red wire on the audio plug. I connect the two white wires from the left & right speakers to the white wire on the audio plug and now I have a male stereo plug that's tapped into the factory audio wires that I can now plug into my SM10 module....

In your case, you would use the female end that I threw away do accomplish the same task but to be able to plug in your ear buds instead of the SM10 module like I did...You can also find the wiring diagram for the female plug on the internet by doing a Google search or if you know how to use a multi-meter to measure the stripped wires to the tip you can achieve the same results....
I just too the same approach to disconnecting the speakers on a 17RT. I got the appropriate connector though, no is 83 30 0 402 344 The wire marked "1" is the ground. I splices each side in to a speaker wire which I ran back to the seat. Here is a picture of the connector next to the speakers. The GREAT thing about this setup in addition to sound quality, is that you can control the Volume from the wheel. With BT you have to do it at the helmet. The bike thinks you are connected to speakers. No error messages.
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post #49 of 50 Old Jan 21st, 2017, 5:32 pm
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Re: Hard wired audio with pictures

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Originally Posted by TJRider View Post
I just too the same approach to disconnecting the speakers on a 17RT. I got the appropriate connector though, no is 83 30 0 402 344 The wire marked "1" is the ground. I splices each side in to a speaker wire which I ran back to the seat. Here is a picture of the connector next to the speakers. The GREAT thing about this setup in addition to sound quality, is that you can control the Volume from the wheel. With BT you have to do it at the helmet. The bike thinks you are connected to speakers. No error messages.
TJRider,

Could you give a more detailed explanation of how you hard-wired your audio via the 83 30 0 402 344 wire? I am thinking about getting a new RT and would like the same audio capability as on my "12 RT.

Thanks,
Tony Van Der Voorn
Wichita, KS

Tony Van Der Voorn
Wichita, KS
2012 R1200RT
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post #50 of 50 Old Feb 26th, 2017, 1:05 pm
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Location: Huntington Beach, California, usa
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Re: Hard wired audio with pictures

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Originally Posted by tony_voorn View Post
TJRider,

Could you give a more detailed explanation of how you hard-wired your audio via the 83 30 0 402 344 wire? I am thinking about getting a new RT and would like the same audio capability as on my "12 RT.

Thanks,
Tony Van Der Voorn
Wichita, KS

Not sure about the 80 30 0 402 344 wire.

A much simpler way for headphones of the stock audio would be either the motocelo speaker bridge.

https://www.rocketmoto.com/accessori...speaker-bridge

or the autocom bike audio adaptor.

https://www.rocketmoto.com/autocom-f...-toggle-switch


I use the autocom. It is switched, choices of speakers on,all off , headphone output on. I use this on a autocom input. At the time rocket moto changed the adaptor to better match the output of the 2014+ bike audio. Output was a little too high.

Both are switchable and have step down transformers so you can not blow out your headphones.
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