[HOWTO] Finally - Converting a RTP into dual seat regime - BMW Luxury Touring Community
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Old Dec 2nd, 2012, 10:54 am
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[HOWTO] Finally - R1200RT-P dual seat conversion

Hi everyone,
My name is Alexei and I've had a 2007/8 BMW R1200RT-P for about 6 months now
It's the best bike I have ever ridden in terms of practicality, power on tap, and even quite possibly the cool factor as I am only 20 years old and my acquaintances are easy to impress

When I bought the bike I already knew in my head what I wanted to do to it, I wanted a dual seat setup as well as a new windscreen and various farkles to cover up the odd scratch here and there from police use.

As far as I know, this is the first guide/write-up for doing this conversion.
I searched far and wide and was surprised there were absolutely no helpful threads on the internets especially considering the abundance of RTP converted vehicles for sale in the classifieds.

Let's get started:

What you need:

One clean and tidy R1200RT (preferably a hexhead 05-09, clean and tidy optional )


Lots of patience and deep pockets

A good set of tools including Torx bits up to T50.

Some cable ties for routing wiring loom

Set of conversion parts from Moto Works or similar business (these guys sell new and used parts, in my case I had to get all brand new parts as they were out of stock of used kits).

The conversion parts include:
Rear passenger seat 52537683640
Left passenger handle 46547681147
Right Passenger handle 46547681148
Dual seat version number plate holder with lock mechanism (fender + brake light plastic)
Footpegs with thrust washers, pins and circlips

The conversion parts not including panniers or topbox rack ran me about 600 pounds which is around $900-1000 for me.

Moto works were terrific with postage and service, got the parts in around a weeks time (its busy due to holidays) and the courier actually delivered the box on a Sunday (today) which is mindblowing!


Conversion steps:

Give the bike a good wash, then start by removing the left and right luggage boxes by undoing the two torx screws in each box holding them onto the rack.

Open up the radio box and undo the four torx screws holding the whole thing down to the frame.

Underneath the radio box tray, unscrew the locking mechanism and undo the cable so you can put the radio box aside.

Remove the entire luggage rack by undoing all the torx bits and breaking the circlips on the bit that attaches to the footpeg rest.

This is self explanatory and I didn't take photos during the process, needless to say it is very easy in a well lit working area.

Next step is to remove the riders seat. To do this there are little clips that you hold under the mid seat thingamabob and pull them apart to expose the riders seat.
Remove the seat and set aside.

Start by removing the left and right side fairings. To do this undo the two torx bits holding down the blanking plates on each side.





Then undo the bolts inside the tail section near brake light, underneath in the wheel arch, as well as one hidden screw under the main petrol tank fairings.
The side fairings can then be eased off and you expose the bare frame of the bike.


Next step is to remove your numberplate and shiny fittings on the old fender whilst still on the bike. Set aside.

The bike should be looking a fair bit slimmer by now.



Remove the rear brake lamp by undoing the two black screws holding the lens on, and disconnect all the spade connectors.
It is easy to connect them back due to the length of plugs so dont bother taking photos unless you are a total noob

Remove the tail light black plastic moulding by undoing the 4 torx screws holding it down.

Then loosen the fender assembly by undoing the four bolts holding it on.
Dont remove it just yet.



Remove the silver aluminium handle above the lock mechanism where the radio box used to sit by poking a torx bit with long handle into the frame hole. These screws are done up tighter than a nun's c#$t so be careful not to strip them. Alternatively you can use a hack saw to remove them as I had to because the were siezed.


Once you've removed this evil little handle you can remove the fender.
The new fender you will have gotten is nearly identical except for the fact that it has a slightly shorter cable and smaller ends on the cable as well.






What you need to do is ease the old lock from old fender with a screwdriver after undoing two torx bits.

Then using a screwdriver, break the glue holding the empty lock on the new fender (this job is a royal bitch, be careful!).

Now fit the old lock onto new fender and connect up the cable back to the mechanism for the seat latch.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S75l-yWGjy4

Next step is to remove the radio box support plate which is a useless ballast plate that takes up a crapload of weight.

Only problem is that it has my compliance plate stamped on it, so once removing it you are in a jam because you need to think where you will fit the compliance plate.


Now refit the new fender and use some spare screws that you should have left over to mount the seat latch onto the two bolts in the obvious spot on the frame.

Next step is to undo the bolts holding the rear shock onto the frame and set bolts aside.

I need a picture of a stock R1200RT to see how the shock mounts up, but currently I have had to cable tie the sucker down near the CANBUS plug so the seat can fit back up.

Alternative is to fabricate a bracket of some sort.

Here is a pic of my workspace and current progress


Here is a testfit of the seat before fitting fairings back up

Make sure the latch operates smoothly and wiring loom is not obstructing the seat!




Now is a good time to clean the underseat section from all the human slime and dust

Here is how the new fender mounts up, looking good.


Now whip your fairings back on, fit the new grab rails onto the bike using old screws. (The old screws are a bit short, might be useful to order some longer ones so the rails dont break off when you sit your chunky wife on the back :P The mistress should be fine haha



Also observe the cat in the background haha

Now test fit everything, give it a clean and enjoy your work!






How's that for a transformation! A two up touring machine with a CD player, heating and doodads for under $10,000.

My next step is to re-weld the factory luggage rack so that I can use the slim city panniers with the passenger seat.

I think the side opening panniers are the most idiotic things since Nicky Minaj and Justin Bieber. All your shit would fall out of the boxes when you open them.

I much prefer the top loading ones because I can open them at the traffic lights and get my phone out or drink bottle, etc.

Anyway goodluck to anyone doing same conversion. All up it took 4 hours but that was because I was missing a correct socket piece and had to improvise!

No real mechanical expertise needed, just remember to torque up all the bolts as the boxer twin will shake them loose

I should add to this thread that the official BMW dealer has been about as helpful as a bottle of salt water in the sahara dessert.

They were absolutely rude, impatient and plain ignorant when I asked them to order the parts the official route.

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Last edited by extermin8tor; Dec 2nd, 2012 at 11:06 am.
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Old Dec 2nd, 2012, 12:45 pm
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Re: [HOWTO] Finally - Converting a RTP into dual seat regime

Nice write-up; thanks for sharing. I especially appreciate your work light!
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Old Dec 2nd, 2012, 1:23 pm
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Re: [HOWTO] Finally - Converting a RTP into dual seat regime

I haven't seen anyone else with a thread on this subject either.

And now nobody else will need to write one, I consider this definitive.

Nice to see that you also got some help from the Pixar mascot . . .
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Old Dec 2nd, 2012, 11:01 pm
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Re: [HOWTO] Finally - Converting a RTP into dual seat regime

It's also interesting to see how much white you guys have on your RTPs there.

Here in the US, they come with a lot more of an "orca" or "panda" paint scheme (except for agencies which specify custom colors).
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Old Dec 3rd, 2012, 9:16 am
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Re: [HOWTO] Finally - Converting a RTP into dual seat regime

I had seen a similar writeup for the previous R1100RTP and -R1150RTP but never one for the R1200RTP. GREAT JOB!

This thread should be a STICKY!
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Old Jan 16th, 2013, 9:26 am
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Re: [HOWTO] Finally - Converting a RTP into dual seat regime

Alexei,

Thanks for the write up, I've just bought myself an ex police R1200rt and your thread has

been very helpfull sorting out the back end.

Cheers
Graeme
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Old Jan 16th, 2013, 10:04 am
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Re: [HOWTO] Finally - Converting a RTP into dual seat regime

EXCELLENT information !!
Thanks for taking the time to share it.
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Old Jan 24th, 2013, 10:14 am
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Re: [HOWTO] Finally - Converting a RTP into dual seat regime

A question please.

Did you do anything about the second battery. A fellow RTP owner has ask about the removal of the second battery on the MOA forum and I volunteered to check with you.
Bob
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Old Jan 25th, 2013, 11:40 pm
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Re: [HOWTO] Finally - Converting a RTP into dual seat regime

Quote:
Originally Posted by BinkleylaNE
A question please.

Did you do anything about the second battery. A fellow RTP owner has ask about the removal of the second battery on the MOA forum and I volunteered to check with you.
Bob
My RT already had it removed, the connections were wrapped in rubber and tucked away. I have since installed a Alpine CD player in place.
The connections are however still there if I ever want a second battery which I don't.
Its a matter of removing the right tank fairing. Opening the CD player Tupperwarebox, disconnecting battery from relay and covering the connections so they don't short.
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Old Jan 28th, 2013, 10:17 pm
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Re: [HOWTO] Finally - Converting a RTP into dual seat regime

Thanks, I will pass it on.
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