I've got a 2000 1100RT with about 20k miles on it. I've noticed for a while that it seems to be a bit sluggish when starting, but it's always started. A bit ago I got on the bike, turned the key and hit the starter. The engine turned about one revolution and then stopped. I tried it again and same thing. Turned the key off, waited about 10 seconds, turned the key on and tried it again and the same thing. I tried a couple of times and at one point the power to the bike died, to the point that my dash clock switched to 00:00.
Grasping at straws I pulled the battery out and took it to O'Reilly's where they put it on a tester and told me it was good. Also, on the top of the battery someone had scratched in 7/1/15, which I'm guessing is when the battery was put in. If it isn't just a weak battery I'm left with either the starter or possibly a wiring issue. Considering that the power cut out on the bike while I was trying to start it, I'm thinking that I might be dealing with a shorted wire somewhere. I know that when I changed the clutch cable a few months ago the outer sheathing on one of the wiring harnesses was crumbling off from age, though the insulation on the wires inside the harness were good.
Two things come to mind. Buy a fresh AGM Yuasa battery. Don't trust the guys at the shop as there are several ways to test a battery. And, pull your starter and do a clean and lube job. An inspection of the starter may show a loose field magnet. Yuasa YTX14H-BS 12Ah 240 CCA maintenance-free powersports battery
I'm suspecting it's something with the starter myself. I was about to pull the trigger on ordering a new one from Beemer Boneyard and decided I'd see if there were any other suggestions.
Pulling the starter for an inspection and lube isn't a bad idea. When I bought the bike it was 16 years old and only had 16k miles on it, so it wouldn't surprise me if things are a bit dry and bound up in there. I'll give that a shot this week.
Do you know if the battery is rated at the recommended cold cranking amps? Bike starts a lot easier when everything is warm than when it is cold. See if the bike will start using jumper cables to your car battery, don't have the car running.
The battery is an OEM battery with a BMW label on it. There aren't really any labels on it, but when we looked it up we came up with 210CCA for it. When the bike didn't start I had already ridden it about 5 miles and the engine temp was showing at normal operating temperature.
First thing is charge the battery. See if it takes a full charge. Make sure the terminals are clean. Then crank the bike. See if it cranks normal or still struggles. If it struggles check voltage on battery. Recharge if you have too. If you can get the bike to run put a meter on the terminals and see if you get a higher voltage like 14.0 volts. That's a quick check on alternator output. Also check terminal connections at starter as someone previously mentioned. Grounds are important as well.
If you have a battery load meter that will help you eliminate the battery as a possible culprit. Without one you will be guessing a bit. Try not to throw parts at it until it's fixed. You can also try using an automotive battery with jumper cables to see if it makes a difference.
BTW, I had a situation on my 2012 although newer different technology on the electronics. I went to crank and it made a loud clunk thumping noise as if it was trying to start but never cranked. If I tried it a few times in a row the computer shut the bike down with a EWS display fault. Then nothing happens until I cycled the ignition to reset the fault. Then it did it again if I continued to start the bike. What I had was a low battery and the cranking voltage dropped below a threshold the computer deemed too low and shut it down to protect the bikes electronics.
My 2012 RT was hard to start initially. Replaced the battery with another OEM battery and it was better, but still hard, especially in the cold (sub freezing temps). Couple years back, I installed an Odyssey PC680. The bike turns over quicker, even in the cold, with that battery, but I still crack the throttle pretty well when starting.
If you're 1100 is anything like my 1200, it might want a little juice whilst starting.
It usually does, and I'm fine with that, but this time it actually stopped turning while I was holding down the button. Almost like the starter seized while it was trying to turn. Sadly I didn't have my GoPro on me at the time, so I don't have any video of what it was doing; that would have done a better job of explaining it than I obviously am.
Batterie's performance decreases as temperature decreases, starter's demand for electricity increases as temperature falls. You have a lower supply of current while at the same time having an increase in demand, somewhere along the graph you find a point where demand exceeds supply and the engine won't start. I think that is where you are at.
He said he had just ridden 5 miles with engine warmed up when it didn't start.
I would go with the suggestion to place jumper cables from a car that isn't running to your battery. If it starts normally it's the battery, if it still struggles replace the starter.
I think and don't shoot the messenger if he is wrong, but wasn't there a recall or bulletin on the wire from the relay or battery to the starter being too small and I think that was on some iteration of the R1200. Wondering if that could be an issue here as well, just dropping too much voltage when trying to start. You can test that by measuring the voltage drop at the batter and also at the starter. I would expect some but it might be telling if it was substantial.
OK, I'm starting to wonder if maybe the battery is the issue. I got a voltmeter on it and I get 12.8 volts when the bike is off and not trying to start, but as soon as I hit the starter it seems to drop down to about 5 volts, which is way too low. I can't tell you what voltage is across it while it's running because I haven't gotten it to start when I had a multimeter handy yet. Here's a video of the bike trying to start:
Give the video a watch and let me know what you guys think the issue is.
OK, I'm starting to wonder if maybe the battery is the issue. I got a voltmeter on it and I get 12.8 volts when the bike is off and not trying to start, but as soon as I hit the starter it seems to drop down to about 5 volts, which is way too low. I can't tell you what voltage is across it while it's running because I haven't gotten it to start when I had a multimeter handy yet. Here's a video of the bike trying to start:
Will have to look at the video later as I can't do that from where I am but if it drops that low, it is either a short or the battery is not up to the task. Be careful attempting to crank it if the voltage drops that low. That can fry the stater relay unless it is one with the lower than 10V drop out circuit inside. the 2001 and earlier LT's were somewhat notorious for fusing starter relays on a low battery crank.
Pull it out and get a new one or at least take it to Autozone and have them load test it. Been looking at battery testers and I haven't made up my mind on a carbon block resistor type or the internal impedance calculation type yet. No help on that front.
Your bike comes from an era of known starter failures, the field magnets come loose. You have two main posibilities, the starter is kaput and you can get a good one very economical from Euromotoelectrics or your battery is toast. I vote starter and take the advice given do not try to start your bike again until you find a cause. The low voltage start is very dangerous to your bike. Here is a starter for you or you can buy the outer housing with the field magnets in it. http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/category-s/1623.htm
My original bmw battery showed 12 plus volts in a static state. When cranking over the voltage dropped all the way down to 3 volts then slowly recovered. It was a exide gel battery. Battery was toast even though it read 12 volts when fully charged. I guess gel batteries have this strange characteristic. If your battery is doing this as you stated you need to replace it. Avoid cranking with a bad battery. You never know what damage it may do to the electrics.
Once the battery issue is sorted out then you should look at the starter operation next including cables and starter relay.
If you want a hand, I might be able to convince the pillion to go for a ride or even a drive in-between grouting and sealing the new tile and setting the can in her guest bath. You are not that far away.
Although I really appreciate the offer and it would be cool to meet you and have a few beers, I've already got the old starter off and sitting on the garage floor with a new one on order from Beemer Boneyard. It's just a matter of being patient now. The starter should be fairly easy, but what ought to be interesting is that I also ordered a 12k maintenance kit from them too, so I'll be changing the oil, adjusting the valves, and replacing a number of seals. I forget what all was in the kit, but it seemed fairly thorough and a good deal for $100.
Just got in my new starter from Beemer Bonyard and installed it. She fired right up without hesitation and idled great. Checked the voltage across the battery while she was running and got 14v, so it looks like the alternator is good.
It's just too bad that I finally got it fixed on the Friday of my week long vacation that I had planned to go moto-camping and ride the Dragon on.
I've got to go to Savannah tomorrow to pick up my neice, but I think I'll get a good ride in on Sunday to reward myself. I'm on-call next weekend so I can't ride anyway. I'll do the 12k maintenance kit then. When I do that, I'll bust open the old starter and see if I can determine why it failed and post some pics of it.
Thanks to all of the suggestions, and especially to Gordon for the offer to help. It is definitely appreciated.
Dang, Susan is going to be OOT so I am hoping for some good weather next Saturday to try and run through a tank of gas or so while she is away. I think I pick up on call on the 24th so that weekend is out for me.
Yeah, I hear you. I watched that video and that sure looked like a battery that couldn't provide enough current and allowing the voltage to drop. The starter was turning also, just not very fast. I have a clamp on DC ammeter that would have told me that it was trying to draw 400A or something ridiculous and I would have trusted the test from the auto shop a little more. Very glad it is fixed though.
Yes, repaired. I hate it when something is not working. Good job on you. And even better you didn't have to pay a Dealer price for the starter. This exact situation happened to me on the road 1000 miles out. I too bought a new battery, then push started it for three days to get home. So it left a lasting impression on me, starter field magnets. :surprise:
Yeah, I've had lots of starters go out in my life, and none of them ever did this. This seemed so much like it was the battery that it had me second guessing what I was seeing. Someone scratched the install date in the old battery and it showed it was only about 1.5 years old, plus the O'Reilly said it was good, but I just kept thinking "that's got to be the battery". Oh well, I probably paid as much for the starter and battery as I would have for just a starter from the dealer, and at least I know I've got good stuff now, or at least that's what I'm going to tell myself to make me feel better.
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