It works!!! - ABS 2 fault reset (long) - BMW Luxury Touring Community
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post #1 of 112 Old Dec 23rd, 2007, 12:14 pm Thread Starter
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It works!!! - ABS 2 fault reset (long)

I have just carried out a reset of my ABS 2

This is for 99/2000 model LTs.

It is not for models with integral ABS.

It has been suggested that the only way to clear ABS2 faults is by placing it on the diagnostic computer at a dealers shop.

I have just proved that this is not true. It can be done at home relatively simply.

What I am describing clears the memory of faults and returns the abs warning lights to normal on startup. If however you have failed to cure the cause of the fault, eg bad wheel sensor, the warning lights will return to their warning state once the bike has gone through it's self test process.

Firstly you can do some investigation of your own fault codes.

Under the front seat and clipped to the frame there is a diagnostic connector. It is cylindrical in shape and has a removable push-and-turn grey cap.

Remove the cap and locate the pin 2 - connected to a brown/blue wire. Connect an analogue meter between pin 2 and earth. Turn on the ignition. The meter will initially settle at around 10V. It's what happens next that is of interest. The needle will fall to a number of lower voltages in a series of pulses. Count the number of needle drops. This number is your fault code.

The following codes have appeared on other forums. I cannot guarantee their accuracy but they may point you in the right direction:-

1.Front pressure modulator.
2. Rear pressure modulator
3. Front wheel speed sensor
4. rear wheel speed sensor
5 battery voltage too low
6.ABS relay
7.ABS control unit
8. sensor gap front or rear or other outside influence.
9. Unknown .....
16. Failed plunger test


Ok. This may help you cure the actual fault which is causing the alternating (wigwag)warning lights.

To carry out a reset, this is what I did. You need to get to pin 21 on the ABS controller. The connector is plugged into the abs unit which can be seen next to the battery holder towards the left hand side under the seat.

I removed the battery to create some space.

Now this is where it became challenging. I didn't want to remove the whole unit just to release the connector.

As you look down from above you can see a protruding rectangular steel clip at the bottom of the connector. You need to push this down whilst you prise out the connector from the bottom. No easy feat but I managed. Unfortunately, the connector continues to be held in at the top of the unit. The connector itself has a plastic lip which hooks under the top of the abs unit. You will see a small screw in the top of the connector. Do not remove this - it will not help - it has nothing to do with release.
Lack of space meant that I could not revolve the connector sufficiently to release the lip. After much knuckle bleeding I used half a junior hacksaw blade to saw the piece of plastic from the connector. This allowed it to come free. On final replacement I will tie wrap the connector back in place for security.

I then had to dismantle the connector to reveal the wire locations. I had to roll back the rubber protector tube where the wires enter the connector. This reveals two screws. There is another screw at the top of the connector. Remove all three screws and then pull the connector block from its housing so you can see where the wires enter the terminal holes.

The inner connector has its terminals numbered along the sides. Terminal 21 is vacant. I stripped a thin wire and threaded it through the hole and then bent a small amount over to hold it in place being carefull not to interfere with other terminals.

I then carefully replaced the connector onto the ABS unit and replaced the battery.

OK. The reset. I earthed pin 2 of the diagnostic connector and kept it earthed.

I then switched on the ignition. Both ABS lights were flashing alternately. I then grounded the wire from pin 21 and made a count of 8 seconds. As soon as I grounded this wire one abs light stayed on and one went off (can't remember which one). At the count of eight I removed the pin 21 wire from earth. This results in both abs lights staying on together.

I switched off the ignition and removed the diagnostic earth wire.

When I switched the ignition back on, both abs lghts were flashing simultaneously. Just as they should.

I'm going to leave the pin 21 wire in place so that I can reset in the future at will.

Hope this proves helpfull to you all.

Merry Christmas

Chris
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post #2 of 112 Old Dec 23rd, 2007, 1:26 pm
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Nice work Chris,

How did you come by this information ?


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post #3 of 112 Old Dec 23rd, 2007, 1:43 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JPSpen
Nice work Chris,

How did you come by this information ?


John
Hi John. Simply hours of searching and trawling the net.

I was a little anxious that I might damage the unit in some way but as it wasn't working anyway I felt I had nothing to lose. Hey presto - it worked. Tremendous feeling of satisfaction and well worth the effort.

Regards

Chris
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post #4 of 112 Old Dec 23rd, 2007, 4:30 pm
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Well Done Chris,


That is the type of persistance and daring that makes being a part of this site so fantastic. You have earned a spot in the maintenance hall of fame!! Now if there were an easier way to get that connector off...

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post #5 of 112 Old Dec 23rd, 2007, 5:39 pm
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When you say it works, are you saying the lights no longer flash or you have taken it down the road and jammed on the rear on gravel to see if the ABS kicks in?
If the latter, I will report back shortly, as mine is in bits, so I may as well go for it.

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post #6 of 112 Old Dec 24th, 2007, 2:48 am Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c00k1e
When you say it works, are you saying the lights no longer flash or you have taken it down the road and jammed on the rear on gravel to see if the ABS kicks in?
If the latter, I will report back shortly, as mine is in bits, so I may as well go for it.
Hi Cookie

The procedure I decribed clears any record of fault from the electronic memory.

It cannot and will not repair a physical fault on the bike. If you have a faulty wheel sensor or other abs component and you do not correct this the lights will return to warning mode following self-test and the abs function is automatically disabled.

Do the fault code analysis, address the route cause of the problem and then do the reset. Then your system will function correctly.

If the analysis points to a faulty unit (the really expensive bit), it has been reported that a full system flush can sometimes restore normal operation.

The breakthrough here is that you don't have to visit the dealer everytime you want to reset your lights.

Have a go - you've little to lose - good luck.

Regards

Chris
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post #7 of 112 Old Dec 24th, 2007, 6:53 am
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Excellent post

As a DIYer I am very happy to have this procedure available.
I printed it out and will put it with my shop manual.

Your procedure does belong in the Hall of Wisdom.

I did purchase the GS911 code reader tool, but I understand it will not reset ABS faults on the 99-2000 models. Your method of resetting the ABS fills the gap.

Good work and thanks!
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post #8 of 112 Old Dec 24th, 2007, 10:37 am Thread Starter
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Thanks Charlie. It's good to get some positive feedback.

Chris
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post #9 of 112 Old Dec 24th, 2007, 1:32 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BDC
Thanks Charlie. It's good to get some positive feedback.

Chris
You really brought some very valuable information to this forum.

I hope as I learn, that I may also contribute a little for all that I receive from this forum.

Great work on your part

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post #10 of 112 Old Dec 24th, 2007, 1:55 pm
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Great work!

This is really good information for the HOW.

Grounding a pin for a set time period is how BMW does resets for warning and service intervals on their cars also. It is relatively easy to reset the "Service Engine", "Service Interval" and "Oil Service" lights on the cars, so it probably would have been expected on the bikes also. It just takes someone like yourself that will expend the time and effort to uncover the procedure. The difficulty is normally finding out not only which pin, but the time period to keep the pin grounded. On the cars the time periods are different for the individual items to reset.

Thanks for your work!

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post #11 of 112 Old Dec 24th, 2007, 2:48 pm Thread Starter
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Thanks David

I, like many others on this board, value your own wealth of knowledge and practical experience.

My research indicated that getting the reset sequence correct is critical. Also ensuring good connections to earth.

If I had more time I would create a series of faults eg disconnect a wheel sensor, and then verify the fault codes. Perhaps in the future.

Chris
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post #12 of 112 Old Dec 24th, 2007, 2:51 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LAF
You really brought some very valuable information to this forum.

I hope as I learn, that I may also contribute a little for all that I receive from this forum.

Great work on your part
Thanks LAF, that's a great philosophy for this board. If it's good - share it.

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post #13 of 112 Old Dec 24th, 2007, 3:08 pm
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Adding some more info. Yes It does work!

1. I used a fine toothed sabre saw blade and gloves to cut the top black plastic "catch" on the connector. 10 min work, a dremel tool might work too.

2. Which connector is 21? There are 2 vertical rows (left and right) of male spade connectors on the ABS control unit. Pin 21 is the 5th one down on the left row. I used 1/2 of a mini female spade connector to get a more positive connection.

3. I bought a 12v LED from Radio Shack to get a readout of the diagnostic code(s), off terminal 2. It would not flash, BUT the idea of a analog voltmeter needle bouncing does work. I first got # 7 (the control unit itself). Grounded both terminals 21 and 2 and the lights stopped flashing! I have the FD off and got another code #9 at the next ignition turn on. I've got to wait until everything is back on, to further test. (Working on the ABS, Aux. Lights quit working, drilling clutch slave weep hole, bad pivot bearings, reverse not working (See seperate posting for fix) and front tranny input shaft seal leak )

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post #14 of 112 Old Dec 24th, 2007, 3:54 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suzbmwhnd
1. I used a fine toothed sabre saw blade and gloves to cut the top black plastic "catch" on the connector. 10 min work, a dremel tool might work too.

2. Which connector is 21? There are 2 vertical rows (front and back) of male spade connectors on the ABS control unit. Pin 21 is the 5th one down on the back row. I used 1/2 of a mini female spade connector to get a more positive connection.

3. I bought a 12v LED from Radio Shack to get a readout of the diagnostic code(s), off terminal 2. It would not flash, BUT the idea of a analog voltmeter needle bouncing does work. I first got # 7 (the control unit itself). Grounded both terminals 21 and 2 and the lights stopped flashing! I have the FD off and got another code #9 at the next ignition turn on. I've got to wait until everything is back on, to further test. (Working on the ABS, Aux. Lights quit working, drilling clutch slave weep hole, bad pivot bearings and front tranny input shaft seal leak )
Fantastic. I like your idea of half a female connector to obtain a better connection. I'll use that myself when I make my final re-assembly.

I'm pleased the reset worked for you. It proves my work was not a chance occurence and that my description was helpful.

Good luck with your other problems.

Chris
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post #15 of 112 Old Dec 25th, 2007, 7:02 pm
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Well done BDC.
You must have put a lot of time researching into this “fix it”.
So many DIY’s are going to benefit from this post
Thank you for shearing with us all.
My ABS works fine for now. But you never know when your going to need info!
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post #16 of 112 Old Dec 26th, 2007, 5:55 am Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Bear-KLT
Well done BDC.
You must have put a lot of time researching into this “fix it”.
So many DIY’s are going to benefit from this post
Thank you for shearing with us all.
My ABS works fine for now. But you never know when your going to need info!
I take my helmet off to you
Thanks Bear

I'm glad your abs is working. A major ABS failure can be very expensive to repair. My advice would be - dont leave anything to chance. Do the annual brake fluid change. It's a simple diy task (a bit time consuming) and costs peanuts.

Regards - Chris
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post #17 of 112 Old Dec 26th, 2007, 1:31 pm
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I don't know if this will work or not, but the attached pdf contains a description and circuit diagram of an LED display that was used for first gen K bikes (K75's and K100's) to display ABS fault codes. I lifted this from www.ibmwr.org's tech section.
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File Type: pdf K75 ABS Fault Code Test Box.pdf (32.2 KB, 922 views)
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post #18 of 112 Old Dec 26th, 2007, 3:34 pm
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Chris, I think if you cleaned this up with more of what you learn and took a few pictures this would be a great item for the Halls of Wisdom.

Great Job. Thank you for sharing.
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post #19 of 112 Old Dec 28th, 2007, 9:59 am
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Maybe if BDC is willing to share this info with the GS911 folks, they could build it into their next update.

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post #20 of 112 Old Jan 22nd, 2008, 8:46 pm
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Chris;
Many thanks I followed your instructions regarding abs faults and reset on a 99 1200lt and found fault 3 front abs sensor. This I had just replaced because it would not register any pulses on oscilloscope, however I had no way to clear fault and reset abs without your help. I removed the abs controller wiring connector more easily by removing the +pos cable post junction located behind abs connector . This allowed enough room to release the top lip. I also found that bosch fuel injector connectors off a 2002 Kia Sportage just happened to have same wiring connectors as the bmw abs controller. (small world!!) so I was able to just run new wire to #21 terminal just like factory and leave for future reset. Bike self tested and abs lights went out on rollout . Dealer wanted to replace abs controller for approx 3k so my customer is very happy!!!! Again many thanks. Wrenchall
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post #21 of 112 Old Jan 23rd, 2008, 7:28 am Thread Starter
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It really is great when, following the reset, the bike goes through its roll on test and then returns to normal and correct function.

It does raise the question....just how many units have been replaced unnecessarily and at great cost.

Glad to have been of help

Chris
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post #22 of 112 Old Apr 17th, 2008, 6:41 pm
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Re: It works!!! - ABS 2 fault reset (long)

Chris,

I have a 2000 LTC

I just lifted my seat and looked around the battery and to the left of the battery. I see what appears to be the Motronic unit immediately to the left of the Battery and to the left of that,.....I can see just a glimpse of a brake line coming off what I am fairly certain must be the ABS unit....however....there is so much stuff on top of it....I can't be certain,...but can't imagine what else would have a brake line coming off it in the middle of the bike.

so....Didnt see anything that looked like a connector or ABS specific diagnostics port.

Wondering.............Do I need to remove the body panels to see what you are talking about and do the procedure....or should I be able to do this from above.

Brian in Austin


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post #23 of 112 Old Apr 17th, 2008, 8:12 pm
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Re: It works!!! - ABS 2 fault reset (long)

Taking the left "battery" tupperware side cover off may help you to see it better. But everything can be done from the top.
You've got to take the rear long wiring terminal connector off the gray/silver ABS unit (with 4 brake lines) to get to terminal/pin #21.
You've got to be able to ground it and and pin #2 (brown/blue wire) on the diagnostic terminal.
Go back and read the above instructions carefully taking your time.
I've done it and it worked for me for about 5 startups, until I found I had the ABS unit failure. I have put switches on these wires to ground including the ABS lights, so they don't flash. I'm getting the courage up to remove the entire ABS unit and try to repair it. If not I will eliminate it entirely. I'm very good with electrical and mechanical.
Write me at chuck_french@juno.com if you need more help.

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post #24 of 112 Old May 6th, 2008, 7:15 am
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Re: It works!!! - ABS 2 fault reset (long)

Chris / All,

I used WrenchAll's suggestion and moved the positive junction block behind the ABS connector. It has a spring tab on the top,...light pressure on the spring tab and just lift it out of the way...thats all there is to it. Now you can swing the ABS connector far enough back to remove it ...takes a little finessing to get it to release.....but no cutting is required.

I took it a step further. Since I had the left side panel off (take the passenger left side foot peg off first then 4 torx screws hold the side panel on.

I wanted to flush the ABS unit prior to flushing the Front and rear brakes,....removing the side panel facilitates this.

So, since you have the side panel off,...if you follow the ABS connector cable,...you will see that it is held by two yellow plastic clips,...release these with a flat tip screwdriver and then carefully feed the entire cable out under the ABS assembly and out the left side where you can now sit on a shop stool and do the remaining work on the ABS connector without standing over the bike.


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post #25 of 112 Old May 6th, 2008, 2:31 pm
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Re: It works!!! - ABS 2 fault reset (long)

Brian,


You are better off just flushing the front and rear brakes first, followed by a small amount of residual fluid at the top of the ABS unit. All fluid will go through the unit when you flush the brakes. If you try to flush just the unit through the bleed ports there will still be old fluid in there until you pass it all the way to the calipers.

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post #26 of 112 Old May 6th, 2008, 7:55 pm
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Wooo-Hoooo. My ABS unit is reset and Working!!!

OK Guys, Another testamonial. THIS WORKS!!

Using Chris's technique with the tweak that Wrenchall added, and a few tweaks of my own along the way. I first flushed my brake system including the ABS pump at both nipples......the fluid was chocolate brown.

First--I took off the left side body panel under the seat...it takes about 5 minutes max....you will have to remove the lift handle that you grab when you are putting the bike on its center stand.

So got all the fluid changed using a Harbor Freight Vacuum pump ($18). I then followed wrenchall's suggestion and removed the positive (+) terminal block that is just behind the ABS unit connector,..this allows the ABS unit connector to be swung from the bottom and hinging (hinge-ing??) at the top towards the back of the bike....when you reach the furthest point of movement,...a bit of fiddling and jiggling will release the complete connector cable and no cutting at all.

My Next mod from Chris's Technique was to follow the ABS cable down and back.....it is help by two re-usable bright yellow cable clamps or tie downs.....release those with a flat blade screwdriver and pull the complete ABS cable down,.....and under the ABS unit and out the left side of the bike where you will easily be able to work on it while sitting on a stool.

Now, again Following Chris's guide, I cut the wire tie around the boot of the cable connector and peeled it back. I could then see the 3 screws that Chris mentions.....but they were a very odd head, not Philips, not torx, not square drive, not allen,....I ended up using a Posidriver (from my Austin Healey restoration days) it felt a like it had a bit more bite than a philips. I carefully removed the 3 screws , using pliers to get one out all the way after the posidriver failed to get any more bite. I did NOT reuse these screws----I went to ACE hardware and found 3 #4 Philips self tapping or sheet metal style black screws and used those when I re-assembled.

Once I had the 3 unusual screws out,...I then removed the rubber gasket in the contact/pin portion of the connector,.. and pushed the guts of the connector forward from the cable end out of its housing.....you may have to roll or pull the rubber boot back a few inches to allow this. Then, locating the empty slot #21 as mentioned by Chris, I inserted a small female spade connector as wrenchall mentioned (I think) crimped to a wire. I inspected the female connector from the "connecting side" to make sure that it visually was in allignment with the other female connection points.

My next mod to the current procedure was to run the #21 wire into the connector housing and out its back side and then into the rubber boot into the small protrusion that is not utilized....I had previously pierced the small protrusion and then gripped my loose end of the #21 wire and forced the needle nose pliers (very small and long nose needle nose pliers) into the small protrusion....and out the small hole I had previously made...I then grabbed the loose end of the wire and pulled it through before pulling my small,long needle nose pliers out of the protrusion. Now, I replaced the cable clamp using two of my new Ace Hardware screws and pulled the rubber boot back over the entire assembly and re-sealed it with a new wire tie. Now I took the loose end of my new #21 wire and crimp and male spade connector on to it and capped it off with an insulated female crimp connector.....just to protect the end of the wire so that it could not make contact with anything.

I then threaded the entire modified ABS cable back into the bikes frame the way it came out and re-installed the two yellow cable clips and then re-installed the complete ABS connector into the ABS unit.....It makes a nice "click" when it is properly in place.

From there, its back to Chris's procedure,....Using pin number two on the diagnostic port and a new Radio Shack ANALOG multimeter,...I followed Chris's procedure and got "7" deflectionions of the needle, indicating that I had an ABS Unit fault.

Now....... for the moment all this had lead up to......I followed Chris's procedure using my newly installed #21 wire and did the 8 second reset .......the first time I thought it had worked, but......when I turned the bike off and on again.....it had not reset.

So........I did it a second time: Pin number 2 to ground, ignition on,..Wire #21 to ground,...watch my second hand and release wire #21 after 8 seconds......I could hear that the ABS had stopped cycling. I turned the bike off,...removed the pin #2 to ground wire, and turned the bike back on and

.........We are cooking with gas now Momma!!!!!!!!!!!!!


My ABS lights were now blinking together!!!!!
But still had to complete the acid test,....ride the bike....

I Put everything back togther, rolled the bike out of the garage, fired it up,....within 5 feet, my ABS light turned off..................for the first time since I bought this bike!!!

Now we all have to just keep our collective fingers crossed that those lights stay off and my ABS keeps working properly.


Thanks Chris and wrenchall for taking the lead on this.

I did take a few pictures along the way on this.....not sure how helpful they will be, but.....if this thread makes it to a sticky.........which it most definately should,....I would be happy to clean up any text and contribute / post pics.

Let me know if I can assist in making this a permanent tech article.

Brian in Austin


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Last edited by wildwestrider; May 6th, 2008 at 8:03 pm.
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post #27 of 112 Old May 7th, 2008, 3:03 am Thread Starter
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Re: It works!!! - ABS 2 fault reset (long)

Well done.

Feels good doesn't it?

After my reset my ABS has not malfunctioned since.

Regards

Chris
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post #28 of 112 Old May 8th, 2008, 3:17 am
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Re: It works!!! - ABS 2 fault reset (long)

WOW!!! If I had just seen this thread last weekend I could have saved myself $44.00. Tuesday I took the Lt to the dealer and in half an hour or less they had rest my fault from a sticking relay that I fixed with a whack from my 3/8 drive socket wrench. Next time I will have the knowledge and tools to do it myself.

Rob Asay
99 Canyon Red Lt
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1982 Honda "Silver Wing"
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1978 Gold Wing
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post #29 of 112 Old May 13th, 2008, 2:25 pm
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Re: It works!!! - ABS 2 fault reset (long)

Quote:
Originally Posted by robasay
WOW!!! If I had just seen this thread last weekend I could have saved myself $44.00. Tuesday I took the Lt to the dealer and in half an hour or less they had rest my fault from a sticking relay that I fixed with a whack from my 3/8 drive socket wrench. Next time I will have the knowledge and tools to do it myself.
What relay was faulting?

Brian


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post #30 of 112 Old May 14th, 2008, 1:47 am
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Re: It works!!! - ABS 2 fault reset (long)

The ABS relay that sits next to the ABS unit. the points stuck together causing the ABS to stay on. Sounds like a motor running. Two years ago I took it to the dealer and they charged me over $400 to take it out clean it and smack it with a hammer. So I just used a ratchet and smacked it while the power unplugged and then reconnected the battery, Viola! ABS unit no longer running but lights still flashing back and forth. I took to the dealer and they confirmed the relay fault then reset the lights. So far so good.

Rob Asay
99 Canyon Red Lt
"The True Red Dragon"
1982 Honda "Silver Wing"
1986 Gold Wing Interstate "Blue Babe"
1978 Gold Wing
1976 Kawasaki 900
1967 Honda 305 Scrambler
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post #31 of 112 Old May 15th, 2008, 9:41 pm
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Re: It works!!! - ABS 2 fault reset (long)

This site is the greatest. I tripped my abs when wiring my trailer lights.
I tried this and it worked great. I found and bought an extra small female spade connecter at an appliance repair shop.
It fit the male spades on the abs. I could not get it to stay in the wiring harness though. My addition is that I took my glue gun and hot glued the spade in so that with pressure it would fit on the male spade and be a good connection.
I left the wire connected and now I can reset if I need to without taking anything apart.
Thanks for this great help
carl
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post #32 of 112 Old May 18th, 2008, 10:45 am
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Re: It works!!! - ABS 2 fault reset (long)

Wow , Guys ..thanks for your posts & replies , I just did it today , I had the fault number 4 ( rear speed sensor ) .After fixing the wire.. Bike works great . keep on the the great work

Cheers
Mo
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post #33 of 112 Old May 18th, 2008, 1:00 pm
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Any thoughts on why it must be an analog multimeter

Im wondering why an LED or a Test light wont blink on an off (Instead of the old style analog multimeter). I tried my digital multimeter and my test light this morning for the test phase,..and neither worked. Has me wondering what else might work. I saw the reference to the circuit box that someone else recommended,...I looked at the diagram....and it looked beyond my abilities.

Any other thoughts on what might work

Brian


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post #34 of 112 Old May 19th, 2008, 7:42 pm
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Recovery was short lived. My ABS unit keeps faulting

Quote:
Originally Posted by BDC
Well done.

Feels good doesn't it?

After my reset my ABS has not malfunctioned since.

Regards

Chris
Chris/All,

Well, unfortunately after my first Brake system bleed and Then Reset of the ABS unit,...I only got about 20 miles of riding before the ABS unit faulted again.

I reset it 3 more times....and with each subsequent reset....it faulted immediately as soon as I began riding.

Because I got about 20 miles out of the first reset,....I thought that perhaps some debris/corrosion might have been dislodged and caused a valve to hang up...................SO .....today,....

I decided to reflush the complete brake system And ABS Unit again today and then reset the ABS Unit with the 8 second grounding of Pin 21

I ran the diagnostic with the analog multimeter first...7 needle fluctuations which according to Chris's guide indicates the ABS unit itself

After flushing everything again and resetting the unit.......Same thing........immediate fault.



So,..........Has anyone ever tried taking an ABS unit apart and cleaning it?

Any other suggestions?


Brian in Austin


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Last edited by wildwestrider; May 19th, 2008 at 8:00 pm.
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post #35 of 112 Old May 20th, 2008, 10:23 pm
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Re: It works!!! - ABS 2 fault reset (long)

Thanks for the procedure. This worked great!

I need to order a new ABS relay for my bike but in the mean time I was able to reset the ABS fault using this procedure.

A couple of things that I figured out along the way.

1. Taking the connector off. I found it easier to remove the side panel and reach in with a long screw driver, slide it between the stainless clip and connector and then gently pry the connector off that way. When I tried just using the piece of the stainless connector that is visible under the seat I was not having any luck. From the side the connector pops right off.

2. Putting the connector on. I looped a strap around the bottom of the connector so I could pull up on the bottom end and engage the top clip. Without the strap my hands were just too big to get in there. After 30 minutes of fighting the connector, I put the strap around it, pulled up gently and it popped right in place.

3. Anyone looking for the diagnostic connector...it is located right, rear corner of the passenger seat, near the brake fluid res.

Good Luck,
Kevin

1999 K1200LT, patiently waiting for a new model.
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post #36 of 112 Old May 21st, 2008, 5:21 am Thread Starter
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Re: Recovery was short lived. My ABS unit keeps faulting

Quote:
Originally Posted by wildwestrider
Chris/All,

Well, unfortunately after my first Brake system bleed and Then Reset of the ABS unit,...I only got about 20 miles of riding before the ABS unit faulted again.

I reset it 3 more times....and with each subsequent reset....it faulted immediately as soon as I began riding.

Because I got about 20 miles out of the first reset,....I thought that perhaps some debris/corrosion might have been dislodged and caused a valve to hang up...................SO .....today,....

I decided to reflush the complete brake system And ABS Unit again today and then reset the ABS Unit with the 8 second grounding of Pin 21

I ran the diagnostic with the analog multimeter first...7 needle fluctuations which according to Chris's guide indicates the ABS unit itself

After flushing everything again and resetting the unit.......Same thing........immediate fault.



So,..........Has anyone ever tried taking an ABS unit apart and cleaning it?

Any other suggestions?


Brian in Austin
One guy on another forum (K1200rs) dismantled his abs unit. I think he eventually traced the fault to a faulty diode in the ABS relay. The relay is worth a check as others have reported problems with them sticking. This may be a weak link in the system. Worth a try and cheaper than a replacement unit.

Chris
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post #37 of 112 Old May 21st, 2008, 5:33 am
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Re: Recovery was short lived. My ABS unit keeps faulting

Quote:
Originally Posted by BDC
One guy on another forum (K1200rs) dismantled his abs unit. I think he eventually traced the fault to a faulty diode in the ABS relay. The relay is worth a check as others have reported problems with them sticking. This may be a weak link in the system. Worth a try and cheaper than a replacement unit.

Chris
Chris, wouldn't I have a different error "code" if it was the relay? I consistently get 7 deflections of the multimeter needle.

Brian


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post #38 of 112 Old May 23rd, 2008, 12:31 am
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Re: Recovery was short lived. My ABS unit keeps faulting

Quote:
Originally Posted by BDC
One guy on another forum (K1200rs) dismantled his abs unit. I think he eventually traced the fault to a faulty diode in the ABS relay. The relay is worth a check as others have reported problems with them sticking. This may be a weak link in the system. Worth a try and cheaper than a replacement unit.

Chris

Chris, I did a number or Google searches for K1200RS ABS rebuild and didnt find it. Do you happen to know what forum it was or perhaps have a link to the article/post.

Brian in Austin


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post #39 of 112 Old May 23rd, 2008, 2:33 am Thread Starter
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Re: Recovery was short lived. My ABS unit keeps faulting

Quote:
Originally Posted by wildwestrider
Chris, I did a number or Google searches for K1200RS ABS rebuild and didnt find it. Do you happen to know what forum it was or perhaps have a link to the article/post.

Brian in Austin
Hi Brian

Try this http://www.i-bmw.com/showthread.php?t=11186

Chris
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post #40 of 112 Old May 28th, 2008, 9:02 pm
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Re: It works!!! - ABS 2 fault reset (long)

Well I got my reset done today and this worked on my 2001 abs 2 system. My mechanic thanks you for this thread. Another problem we found out was that something ate about 2 inches of wire from the alternator to the battery and some insulation on a ground wire also. I had just put in a new battery and still had the abs flashing. . I then took the bike to my mechanic and did this reset. IT WORKS!!!!! Thanks, Jason

Jason
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post #41 of 112 Old Aug 8th, 2008, 5:38 am
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1999 K1200RS Failed ABS reset

After 4 years of faultless service my ABS went faulty (alternate flashing telltale lights) during recent (successful) repair work to my time clock/gear position indicator circuitry. Was not too concerned since I felt a simple reset according BDC's (long) reset instructions would fix problem,

Alas ! An uncertainty arose during the proceedure: my cylindrical diagnostic connector has 8 (not 3) unnumbered output pins connected to 8 associated wires. One of these wires is brown/blue which I took to be the diagnostic pin to be earthed during the test. No problem experienced during exposure and and arranging earthing of terminal 21 on the ABS control box.

When terminal 21 was earthed during reset proceedure (with brown/blue diagnostic plug terminal also earthed) both ABS lights came on and remained on together for the 8 seconds of the reset. However, upon reset completion when ignition was switched of and on again both ABS lights came on together for a fraction of a second and then recommenced flashing alternately.

I have also tried the error code proceedure (voltage monitoring between brown/blue diagnostic terminal and earth) and find that the voltage swings backwards and forwards interminably between c. 8v and 11v.

Any assistance/comments would be much appreciated.

dand
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post #42 of 112 Old Aug 13th, 2008, 2:27 am
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Re: It works!!! - ABS 2 fault reset (long)

Quote:
Originally Posted by robasay
The ABS relay that sits next to the ABS unit. the points stuck together causing the ABS to stay on. Sounds like a motor running. Two years ago I took it to the dealer and they charged me over $400 to take it out clean it and smack it with a hammer. So I just used a ratchet and smacked it while the power unplugged and then reconnected the battery, Viola! ABS unit no longer running but lights still flashing back and forth. I took to the dealer and they confirmed the relay fault then reset the lights. So far so good.
UPDATE NEWS!

Over the weekend I started the relay replacement. Let me first say the relay is about a one inch cube looking part that has 4 extruding blades and the cost is about a $100.00. The relay sits in a rectangle box at the front left side of the ABS unit assembly. The rectangle box is next too a round plastic part of the relay assembly. You have to remove the upper tupperware, radio stingray, front seat, and gas tank. I then removed the battery and removed three screws that secure the battery box. Notice that ABS unit is actually attached to the left side of the battery box. I removed the two smaller bolt/nuts that hold it onto the battery box. Replacing those two bolts/nuts was the hardest thing I had to do with my large hands. I think that you can avoid removing those two screws and still turn the assembly enough to remove the door and relay. As a note the manual does not mention to order a new plastic end cap/door for the relay housing so I did not do it, but it does say to replace it with a new one.. I attempted to reinstal it the reverse of removal but could not so I used clear silicone to replace it and seal it. I my earlier post I mentioned that two years ago my local dealer/shop manager told me that to fix the fault the first time they removed the relay cleaned it and gave it a whack. Well I am hear to tell you that was a LIE! When I removed the old relay it still had the factory paint across the nuts to indicate any removal. So I will take that up with the service manager and store manager later. The relay is hermetically (in a mayonnaise jar) sealed, so how you would open it and clean the points is a mystery to me. I have decided, for the sake of time to have the fault reset by a dealer for the purpose of time before my trip to CCR. But I will eventually set up the above listed fault fix. Hours to do the job about 8 for me. Teardown was longer as I take time to rember what goes where.

Two years ago I started having this problem after I had a bad battery. It was replaced by a BMW (Exyde) gel battery. I have tried to keep a battery tender on is when not in use. in March of this year the relay stuck again while I was riding. As mentioned in my above post I fixed the problem with a rap on the ABS unit and reset. A month ago they same thing happened. I took the battery to "Batteries Plus" and after a test they indicated the battery was at a marginal level. I had not had the battery tender on for about 5 days. In my case I feel that the relay problems are stemmed from a low voltage or bad battery. I have an Oddesy 680MJ battery on order and should be able to pick it up thursday. I am also going to find a new tender that has at least 2 amp rating rather than the 750 m/amp I have now. They are about $60.00 at Batteries Plus, I will look around. Even though the Oddesy is a little more money $157.00 it is 3 dollars less than what was quoted to me by BMW. For what, an Exyde battery? I have heard good reports from the Oddesy batteries.

Rob Asay
99 Canyon Red Lt
"The True Red Dragon"
1982 Honda "Silver Wing"
1986 Gold Wing Interstate "Blue Babe"
1978 Gold Wing
1976 Kawasaki 900
1967 Honda 305 Scrambler
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post #43 of 112 Old Aug 20th, 2008, 8:13 pm
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Re: It works!!! - ABS 2 fault reset (long)

Short of doing the cutting on the plug that was mentioned in a previous post to this thread, I can't get the (&^%^@* plug to unhook from the connector. Does anyone have a way of getting the bloody thing out that's not already mentioned here?

Bob Brendel
05 LT, Light Metallic Yellow
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88 GL1500
84 GL1200
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post #44 of 112 Old Aug 21st, 2008, 2:27 am
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Re: It works!!! - ABS 2 fault reset (long)

Quote:
Originally Posted by rab1967
Short of doing the cutting on the plug that was mentioned in a previous post to this thread, I can't get the (&^%^@* plug to unhook from the connector. Does anyone have a way of getting the bloody thing out that's not already mentioned here?

It is a little tough, especialy if you have big hands. Use something like a long screw driver and push out against the bottom of the plug as far as back as you can go. Hold the top of it with your other hand, wiggle it and pull down at the same time as you push back at the bottom with the screw driver. Make sure you move the small electricial connection held against the rear fender to give you more room.

Rob Asay
99 Canyon Red Lt
"The True Red Dragon"
1982 Honda "Silver Wing"
1986 Gold Wing Interstate "Blue Babe"
1978 Gold Wing
1976 Kawasaki 900
1967 Honda 305 Scrambler
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post #45 of 112 Old Aug 21st, 2008, 8:03 am
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Re: It works!!! - ABS 2 fault reset (long)

George,

Try this way, I found it much easier.


1. Taking the connector off. I found it easier to remove the side panel and reach in with a long screw driver, slide it between the stainless clip and connector and then gently pry the connector off that way. When I tried just using the piece of the stainless connector that is visible under the seat I was not having any luck. From the side the connector pops right off.

Kevin

1999 K1200LT, patiently waiting for a new model.
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post #46 of 112 Old Aug 21st, 2008, 1:33 pm
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Re: It works!!! - ABS 2 fault reset (long)

Quote:
Originally Posted by kevincook
George,

Try this way, I found it much easier.


1. Taking the connector off. I found it easier to remove the side panel and reach in with a long screw driver, slide it between the stainless clip and connector and then gently pry the connector off that way. When I tried just using the piece of the stainless connector that is visible under the seat I was not having any luck. From the side the connector pops right off.

Kevin
I was able to get the bottom of the connector off with out any problem, but I can't get the top to unhook. I tried going in the side but I'm not sure what's safe to apply a little force too.

Bob Brendel
05 LT, Light Metallic Yellow
99 LT, Totaled 3/09
97 HD Former Work Bike
88 GL1500
84 GL1200
S3 400 Kaw, too long ago to remember the year
175 Yamaha even longer

People sleep peaceably in their beds at night

Only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf

George Orwell
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post #47 of 112 Old Aug 4th, 2009, 4:09 pm
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ABS reset

My ABS warning lights on the dash of my 2000 LT have been flashing lately, I called Northern Colorado BMW to schedule an appointment and was told it would cost $100. just to look at it. Doing a search on this site I found this thread and decided to give it a try. The hardest part about the procedure was getting the connector unplugged from the ABS unit. By removing the positive electrical block behind the plug, after a few scraped knuckles I was able to wiggle it free I went down to my local Kia dealer and found the correct connector, soldered on a couple of feet of 18 gauge primary wire and it snapped right in and locked into the ABS plug. After buttoning everything back up it was time for the moment of truth........ It took 3 tries (maybe I didn't have the timing correct the first 2 times) but on the 3rd try it reset and is working great. Thanks to Chris and all who contributed to refining this fix, Should we ever cross paths the beers on me.

2005 K1200LT




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post #48 of 112 Old Jan 4th, 2010, 11:41 pm
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Re: It works!!! - ABS 2 fault reset (long)

I just wanted to second the experience that sometimes it may take multiple attempts to get this reset procedure to reset the ABS fault lights as it did on my 2000 LT. I thought I was timing the grounding of the pin 21 ABS connector at 8 seconds pretty carefully (used the stopwatch function on my Blackberry) during my 2 or 3 initial tries to reset the ABS and gave up. The next morning before my daily commute to work, I thought I'd try the reset process one more time and it worked fine. ABS lights stayed off for the 20 mile ride to work and back home again. Very relieved not to have the ABS lights flashing and glad to see the ABS is working.

My ABS error occurred after I had removed and reinstalled the final drive. I had verified the rear wheel ABS sensor spacing when reinstalling the rear rotor and caliper and hadn't seen any issue that should have caused an ABS error. I have passenger floorboards installed so when I removed the rear caliper I just let it rest on the right passenger floorboard so the caliper only had to be moved a couple inches - didn't think I could have damaged the ABS sensor wires. Never had the problem previously when I replaced the rear brake pads or when removing and reinstalling the final drive previously. I did top off the brake fluid in both the front and rear brake reservoirs just in case that was an issue.

I had followed the suggestions to remove the left battery cover and remove the battery (figured it couldn't hurt to pull the battery and clean the terminals and verify there was no corrosion underneath the battery) and was able to get the ABS connector off without great difficulty. You do need to swing the lower part of the connector to the rear of the bike as far as you can after disengaging the bottom retainer clip in order to get the top of the connector unhooked. (I had the advantage of having a spare wire harness to look at to see how the connector backshell was shaped and was able to extract a pin from that spare wire harness connector to put in the position 21 of the connector on my bike.)
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post #49 of 112 Old Jan 8th, 2010, 10:47 pm
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Re: Any thoughts on why it must be an analog multimeter

Quote:
Originally Posted by wildwestrider
Im wondering why an LED or a Test light wont blink on an off (Instead of the old style analog multimeter). I tried my digital multimeter and my test light this morning for the test phase,..and neither worked. Has me wondering what else might work. I saw the reference to the circuit box that someone else recommended,...I looked at the diagram....and it looked beyond my abilities.

Any other thoughts on what might work

Brian
Digital meters are super things, but it this case they are designed to ignore small transients just like the pulses.. so it will see the voltage and not reveal the pulses as the device is dampened to ignore them. This results in practically no change in the digital reading.
The Analog meter on the other hand is extremely sensitive to pulses as it essentially is an electromagnet.. the pulsing provides a fairly major change in the field that results in the meter's sensitive hand movement.
The LED switching voltage has to be met to either turn it on or off.. the small pulses are not usually sufficient to cross these thresholds..so no light.

Bill

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post #50 of 112 Old Jan 16th, 2010, 9:16 pm
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Re: It works!!! - ABS 2 fault reset (long)

Before trying these procedures try to disconnect your battery for 15 minutes. This cured the problem on my bike. I was setting up to follow the procedure to clear it. But the battery disconnect did the trick. I was trying to reset the radio and it reset the abs too.
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