OK Guys, Another testamonial
. THIS WORKS!!
Using Chris's technique with the tweak that Wrenchall added, and a few tweaks of my own along the way. I first flushed my brake system including the ABS pump at both nipples......the fluid was chocolate brown.
First--I took off the left side body panel under the seat
...it takes about 5 minutes max....you will have to remove the lift handle that you grab when you are putting the bike on its center stand.
So got all the fluid changed using a Harbor Freight Vacuum pump ($18). I then followed wrenchall's suggestion
and removed the positive (+) terminal block that is just behind the ABS unit connector,..this allows the ABS unit connector to be swung from the bottom and hinging (hinge-ing??) at the top towards the back of the bike....when you reach the furthest point of movement,...a bit of fiddling and jiggling will release the complete connector cable and no cutting at all.
My Next mod
from Chris's Technique was to follow the ABS cable down and back.....it is help by two re-usable bright yellow cable clamps or tie downs.....release those with a flat blade screwdriver and pull the complete ABS cable down,.....and under the ABS unit and out the left side of the bike where you will easily be able to work on it while sitting on a stool.
Now, again Following Chris's guide
, I cut the wire tie around the boot of the cable connector and peeled it back. I could then see the 3 screws that Chris mentions.....but they were a very odd head, not Philips, not torx, not square drive, not allen,....I ended up using a Posidriver (from my Austin Healey restoration days) it felt a like it had a bit more bite than a philips. I carefully removed the 3 screws , using pliers to get one out all the way after the posidriver failed to get any more bite. I did NOT reuse these screws
----I went to ACE hardware and found 3 #4 Philips self tapping or sheet metal style black screws and used those when I re-assembled.
Once I had the 3 unusual screws out,...I then removed the rubber gasket in the contact/pin portion of the connector,.. and pushed the guts of the connector forward from the cable end out of its housing.....you may have to roll or pull the rubber boot back a few inches to allow this. Then, locating the empty slot #21 as mentioned by Chris, I inserted a small female spade connector as wrenchall mentioned
(I think) crimped to a wire. I inspected the female connector from the "connecting side" to make sure that it visually was in allignment with the other female connection points.
My next mod
to the current procedure was to run the #21 wire into the connector housing and out its back side and then into the rubber boot into the small protrusion that is not utilized....I had previously pierced the small protrusion and then gripped my loose end of the #21 wire and forced the needle nose pliers (very small and long nose needle nose pliers) into the small protrusion....and out the small hole I had previously made...I then grabbed the loose end of the wire and pulled it through before pulling my small,long needle nose pliers out of the protrusion. Now, I replaced the cable clamp using two of my new Ace Hardware screws and pulled the rubber boot back over the entire assembly and re-sealed it with a new wire tie. Now I took the loose end of my new #21 wire and crimp and male spade connector on to it and capped it off with an insulated female crimp connector.....just to protect the end of the wire so that it could not make contact with anything.
I then threaded the entire modified ABS cable back into the bikes frame the way it came out and re-installed the two yellow cable clips and then re-installed the complete ABS connector into the ABS unit.....It makes a nice "click" when it is properly in place.
From there, its back to Chris's procedure
,....Using pin number two on the diagnostic port and a new Radio Shack ANALOG multimeter,...I followed Chris's procedure and got "7" deflectionions of the needle, indicating that I had an ABS Unit fault.
Now....... for the moment all this had lead up to
......I followed Chris's procedure using my newly installed #21 wire and did the 8 second reset .......the first time I thought it had worked, but......when I turned the bike off and on again.....it had not reset
So........I did it a second time
: Pin number 2 to ground, ignition on,..Wire #21 to ground,...watch my second hand and release wire #21 after 8 seconds......I could hear that the ABS had stopped cycling. I turned the bike off,...removed the pin #2 to ground wire, and turned the bike back on and
.........We are cooking with gas now Momma!!!!!!!!!!!!!
My ABS lights were now blinking together!!!!!
But still had to complete the acid test,....ride the bike....
I Put everything back togther, rolled the bike out of the garage, fired it up,....within 5 feet, my ABS light turned off..................for the first time since I bought this bike!!!
Now we all have to just keep our collective fingers crossed that those lights stay off and my ABS keeps working properly.
Thanks Chris and wrenchall for taking the lead on this.
I did take a few pictures along the way
on this.....not sure how helpful they will be, but.....if this thread makes it to a sticky.........which it most definately should,....I would be happy to clean up any text and contribute / post pics.
Let me know if I can assist in making this a permanent tech article.
Brian in Austin