Well Welcome to the forum. If you are not afraid of people knowing who and where you are, fill out a little more of your profile so we know if there is anyone close enough to assist should you need it.
As for its weight, that is really only an issue at 5mph or below. It also sounds like yo might have some nice upgrades on it like the HP shocks and lights when you fix them.
Most people leave the cruise switch in the on position and yes, it is tight but not in a place you will accidentally set cruise on.
Depending on what model shocks, you may have some damping adjustments that could be out of wack or the guy had a very light spring put on it. It shouldn't be bottoming out with just your weight.
The FD for a 2002 is in the range where issues were higher so keep an eye on it. It may have already been addressed but if you have an issue, we have a really good guy on the forum if you are in the states who rebuilds them right.
The biggest safety issue you might still have is the original brake lines. If they are black rubber coated and old looking, they need to be replaced pretty quickly. If they are stainless braided (possibly colored), then they have already been done and you won't have to worry about them again unless they get damaged.
If you haven't figured it out with your K12S, she loves the higher RPM also so don't be afraid to run it up and ride it there.
Box of rocks. Yep, mine and most are just plain noisy.
Check ebay for parts as there are many to be had if some of yours have seen too many sunny days
While you have the tank off to replace the air filter, you should inspect the fuel lines inside the tank. The ethanol now in the gas is deteriorating them faster than E0 gas would and they are bursting. They are old anyway on an 02 so consider a preemptive replacement of them. I used a Nylon replacement set from Euro MotoElectric so I won't have that issue again but make sure if you decide to replace the hoses, you use submersible higher than 50PSI EFI line or it will die a very quick death and you will be right back in.
Two other things to be aware of are the clutch slave and the dreaded O-ring that seals the inside of the clutch housing behind the large nut on the engine output shaft. the O-ring was not made of a really great material and the heat and oil from the clutch cause it to dry and crack over time, allowing oil to leak into your clutch. It is a dry clutch so that is not good. 2. The throw out bearing is in the end of the clutch slave and if it starts to bind, it can start the piston spinning and damage the seal allowing brake fluid to travel down the clutch pushrod into the clutch again. There are fixes and work arounds for these issues that include drilling some weep holes but you have to drop the transmission out to do the O-ring and that is a good bit of work. I did mine last year and there is a better material Viton O-ring to use than the stock one should you venture into that area. The weep holes are only a way to know you have an issue and not a fix or these issues but the slave weep hole indicator could save you a clutch.
Pictures have to be pretty small in KB so edit a copy in paint and save it in pixles as 1500 by whatever it adjusts to and then drag and drop it in the upload area just below the text box and let us see your latest find.
If you do have any issues, the depth of knowledge on this forum is astounding so don't be afraid to ask.