Where the Buffalo roams

[SilverBuffalo]

Get outta town
Thursday April 13 Day # 1

Up at 3 am with a splitting headache, too exited to sleep, I lay in bed trying to lose the pain, I'm half tempted to get started but there are so many last minute things to do securing the homestead that I need to wait until daylight and take my time so I don't forget anything that's going to haunt me for the next couple of months.

10 am we depart, Interstate through Tampa pickup US19 around Crystal River, 4 lane divided and straight for the next 3 hours.
We stop at a rest area and I give the bike a once over, I smell rubber, my rear tire is too hot to touch, I wonder if I've got too much tongue weight on the trailer, I repack the trailer.
We turn off US19 onto 98 westbound, a nice 2 lane through the woods and along the Gulf of Mexico very scenic and a few degrees cooler along the water, a lot of building was started along this coast over the last several years and abruptly stopped last year after several hurricanes came right up through here, the water here reached a one hundred year high mark, there's quite a bit of damage still around, a lot of places just never got rebuilt.
We roll into Carrabelle and I spot a coffee shop on a side road, it's a local hangout, there are a few old guys hanging out that want to tell me about the Harley's and Indian's they used to ride, I always have time to talk motorcycles, the coffee's pretty good and only 50 cents a cup.
As we pulled out I I see the "worlds smallest police station" it's a phone booth, Carrabelle's claim to fame.
I check the rear tire again, still too hot to touch, I check the pressure, my gauge only goes up to 50 psi and it's way over that, I took the advice from some of the forum members and started out with 48 psi cold and I'm not liking the results so I let out some air down to 48 but my tire is hot now, immediately the bike handled better and the slight sway is gone from the trailer, I didn't think it would be so noticeable
US 98 is a delightfully scenic road and we follow it along a little further when I spot the museum of "man under the sea" it's already closed but there are some really cool one and two man submarines on display outside, I take a few pictures and we get on down the road, as we get through Panama City I turn north, it's starting to get dark and time to stop for the night.
460 miles

[SilverBuffalo]

friday day # 2

As I pack the bike and trailer I check the tire pressures, I'm still concerned about the temperature of my rear tire it's @ 38 psi I bump it up to 42.

A friend of mine told me about a carferry that is still operable on the Alabama river, that sounds really cool to me so I go looking for it. He told me to find state road 10, said its really hard to follow and it even turns to dirt for a while, I follow my gps as it leads me toward the river, the pavement ends and I continue on, 5 miles later the road abruptly deadends into a paved north/south road, according to the gps I'm still a ways from the river so I turn south go 5 miles and figure I turned the wrong way, a u-turn and we're north bound, I spot a street sign called "Dan's ferry landing" that must be it! 10 minutes later I'm questioning my sanity riding down an ever narrowing dirt road 2-up on a twenty thousand dollar motorcycle pulling a trailer wondering how much hemp my "buddy" consumed the day he crossed the river on this elusive ferry-boat, the road splits and there's a giant buoy marker on one leg so I continue on, it's no longer a dirt road but a two-track now and all I want to do is just turn around but it's too narrow and I can't, until I get to the gate and no longer have a choice, this is Bullsh@t, what the f@#$ am I doing here.
When I finally get back to pavement I find a local who directs me to the ferry, turns out there's another road named 10 about 40 miles north in Ala@#$bama, how stupid is that?
I'm on pavement now so my attitude improves rapidly as I follow the new directions, my bike is covered with red dust.
Suddenly there's a sign directing me toward the ferryboat, a couple more miles of dirt road and there it is, I've certainly earned a ride on this thing.
The sign says closed from 12-1 and it's almost 12.30, we hang out and have a cold drink while we wait, there's a plastic outhouse built upon a platform about 6' off the ground with stairs going up to it, my wife asks why they did that and I can't answer her so I make stupid jokes about it being a 2-story outhouse.
One o'clock and there's still nobody around, I strike up a conversation with an old fisherman at the nearby boatramp, we jaw a while as he show off his 20lb+ catfish, when I get around to asking him about the ferry, he says: oh it only runs 4 days a week now M-Thursday........... today is Friday and I'm just not gonna get across this river here today.

370 miles

[SilverBuffalo]

Laural Mississippi
Saturday day # 3

West bound on SR84 we make good time and stop to do the tourist thing in Natchez, a couple of more stamps in our national parks passports we check out the Mellrose estate and the William Johnson house the "barber of Natchez" a free black who owned slaves back in the early 1800's, an interesting twist in history.
A rest stop at a park next to the river gives us a break from the heat and an opportunity to take a couple of pictures of the river boats and barges.

I've only been in Louisiana a couple of hours and have already exceeded my quota of @sshole encounters for the next week or more, I'm sure there must be some nice people here, somewhere, but I haven't had the opportunity to meet them, just a bunch of rude and inconsiderate drivers.

Later in the afternoon we cross over into Texas, my attitude improves right away, the road improves, the speed limit is higher, hey my LT even seems to run better, I start humming all those songs about Texas in my mind, life is good.

384 miles

[SilverBuffalo]

Jasper Texas
Sunday day # 4

We make a quick stop at Wallmart for supplies on our way to the local Kingdom Hall, after our spiritual food we join the friends at a local Mexican restaurant for lunch, they tell us about state road 87 which is a popular road with motorcyclists as far away as Houston, so around 2.30 pm we finally get on the road and ride north toward the Toledo Bend Reservoir.
We cross the water right up to the Louisiana state line and spend some quality time at a picnic table next to the water.
Refreshed and rested we head west where the Texas Highway Patrol has closed the road, a pickup truck left the road, overcorrected and rolled over into some trees, tragic and probably alcohol related judging from the debri.

149 miles

[SilverBuffalo]

Lufkin Texas
Monday day # 5

I spotted a Starbucks on the way into town last night, my wife knows where I am going, she's aware of my addiction now fueled even more by the coffee voyage contest.
http://www.ipvmc.net/st_jude/Coffee_Voyage_2006_rules_31.htm
We are heading towards the Texas hill country, one of our favorite places. Our timing must be a little off the weather has been most extreme with todays temperature predicted to reach 102 degrees.
I am impressed with our First Gear Meshtec jackets, sitting still they get hot real quick but as long as we are moving it seems they actually keep us cooler by shielding us from the sun rays while letting the wind blow through.
We're relatively comfortable into the low 90's, unfortunately it gets over the 100 mark while I'm trying to skirt around Austin and all the traffic associated with it.
My wife is one of the sweetest people you will ever meet, but like all women she can have her moments too, we've only been married a couple of years and are still getting to know each other. Well I learned something today, my wife has a thermostatically controlled "bitch switch" when the temperature gets up around 100 it is automatically activated (and who can blame her)
I'm trying to find us a motel but can't seem to find one until we roll into Fredericksburg around 6 pm.
It's been a long hot day.

373 miles

[SilverBuffalo]

Fredericksburg Texas
Tuesday day # 6

I'm melting.....were the last words of the wicked with in the wizard of Ozz, we know how she felt as its another day with over 100 degree temps predicted, we're not going to do much today, stayed in the motel until checkout time and reluctantly leave the AC for the open road, first stop Luckenbach for a few more pictures, we meet up with a Goldwing rider from Alabama pulling a Leisure Lite camper he's going to some of the same places we are, maybe not in the same order. A little more conversation and we learn he lost his wife to cancer just a couple of months ago, that puts things into perspective for me.
As we leave him there I say a little prayer of thanks and realize how fortunate I am.
I see a sign for Blanco and turn towards it, we roll into town about lunch time and I see the bowling ally but my wife wants to eat at a Mexican restaurant, it's still to early to stop so we roll on to Kerville where we've stayed before, by 3 pm we're in an air conditioned room, it's 102 outside.

[sanjaun2]

Hans,
Great trip story,I guess We are lucky up here for the moment, Its been 45-60 degrees! I really like your pic's keep em coming. Be careful with that rear tire...

[gulfxray]

Hans, looks like you and your wife are having a good time (except for the heat).


Thanks for sharing with us and be safe, ok?

[black1200lt]

Hans,

I have that very same built in switch that your wife revealed. The funny thing is that it came out at the exact temperature and in the very same neighborhood.:sun:

The sad part is that I was riding SOLO on a border to border to border ride, so I didn't have anyone to bitch at! However, once I got a nice room with AC my "condition" cleared.

Sounds like a great ride. You two lovebirds have a great ride and like Brian said: Be careful with that rear tire...

Best,

[Shogun54]

It ain't just no girl thing! Did 6 miles @ ~7MPH on I-35 north of Denton,Texas Tuesday while the traffic rubbernecked mowers being unloaded from a trailer on the shoulder. BC read 101, air fouled by surrounding semis. Bet my forehead was WAY over the BC temp! Fortunately, I was 1-up, so my reputation is still intact as a cuddly curmudgeon.

[SilverBuffalo]

Kerrville Texas
Wednesday day # 7

Back into the Hill country, after the obligatory stop at Starbucks we cruise through Hunt and along the Guadalupe river, it sure is pretty here, although the hills are desperately in need of some rain, we're enjoying the twisty roads.
I stop at a river crossing and watch a fisherman wading as his dog runs into the river to join him, I envy him a little as its only 10 am and already close to 90 degrees, watching him play with his best friend in the water reminds me of something Norman Rockwell would paint, I savor the moment. A Ford F250 coming down the hill reminds me that after all I am in the road, we move on .....up towards Lost Maples it feels even hotter up here and my wife has to P.
I'm gonna share the secret of a successful relationship with some of you guy's, it goes like this: learn to accept the blame.
If she's hot and uncomfortable it's your fault, if you're out in the middle of the desert and she has to P, you guessed it, "it's your fault, once you understand the concept the hard part is over. We saddle up and roll down the hill, the nearest town is at least 20-30 miles away and of course that's my fault too. I make good when I pull into the state park we dismount and as she rushed through the door the park ranger points, over there he says, I know the look!
Now that I'm back in good standing we ride on to Utopia and have lunch at the Lost Maples Cafe a cute rustic place decorated when it opened in 1955, not much has changed and that includes most of the customers.
After lunch we head over to the city park and hang out by the dam for a little quality time,
When I start looking at the map I realize that we are closer to were are going than we are to Kerville, its already 2.30pm so we decide we may as well "go for it".
Two hours of 75mph in 94 degree heat later we check into a motel in the bordertown of Dell Rio.
210 miles

[SilverBuffalo]

Dell Rio Texas day # 8

We are west bound US 90, rolling down the highway at first light, the weather forecast is calling for scattered strong thunderstorms and possible golfball sized hail, I don't want to deal with any off that, so the plan is to get through it into west Texas. Its nice and cool as we start out 74 degrees, a few miles out of town we start climbing and the temperature drops to 68, it's time to pull of the Meshtec and put on those Kilimanjaro jackets. The speed limit on 2 lane Texas roads is 75, so I decide to "stretch the legs" of the LT I set the cruise control for 83 according to the GPS with the theory of "9 you're fine, 10 you're mine" I'm hoping the Highway patrol is still in the coffee shops. The big LT is thriving at this rpm and asking for more.
I'm trying to calculate just how much weight I'm pushing down the road, an 850# bike+me@250, my 110# wife, 125# trailer+ all of the stuff crammed into it must weigh at least another 150-200lbs, that's most of 1500 lbs and the LT handles it like it's not even there, what an awesome motorcycle.
The border patrol never sleeps down here, they are everywhere, we stop at a roadblock and the dog gives my trailer a throurough check over, sorry guy's you're about 30 years too late to bust me with anything.
I see them on the dirt roads that run alongside the highway, they're dragging big tractor tires tied together with chains behind their trucks, I'm guessing it's to cover their tire tracks. There must be some desperate people trying to cross the border, just the thought of walking all night through the desert scares me. Being a Dutch immigrant and having had to go through the process legally (well not so much me as my parents, I was only 15) I am not sure how I feel about the plight of the migrant workers, it seems to me the citizenship process wasn't so much about patriotism as it was buying another license from the government. My brother was an infant, my mom carried him into the US, he has no recollection of Holland at all and certainly no choice about where he was born, still he had to buy a license to belong here, its all much too complicated, I just wish we all could live in a better world.
There's a lot of rodents and deer that were killed just last night the buzzards are feasting, either don't hear me or don't want to be disturbed, but I've had to brake hard several times to keep from hitting one or more of them as they fly up right in front of my windshield they are very large when they get up that close, I duck instinctively and instruct my wife to do the same.
I hit one once a long time ago, he was too fat to fly and collided with the fairing of my R80RT what a mess that made.

There's a flagman up ahead, he says at least 30 minutes, they've closed the road to do time trials for this weekends upcoming road race ( Big Bend Open road race) on Saturday this road is going to be closed all day from 9-5.
We do lunch in Alpine TX the signs says "everybody's place" as we walk through the door I know I've picked the right restaurant it's a little buffet place full of locals, the food is home cooked and very good, check it out it's right across from the McDonalds.
We came here to see the Bluebonnets, it's to dry, there aren't any yet, my wife wants to go where its a little cooler, we turn north toward Fort Davis and the observatory loop nice twisty and climbing, there hasn't been any rain here at all everything is brown and yellow, We turn north on 118 because I haven't been on that road yet, eventually it ends at interstate 10.
A couple of bikes pull into the station, they're from the Florida panhandle a couple on a Goldwing and a guy on a fulldress Harley, he's not happy with his bike tells me he's buying a BMW or a wing when he returns from this trip, been there done that. The wingriders like my trailer and are envious when I open it up and they spy our coffee pots, pillows and other luxuries my wife can't live without, ok, ok I'm liking 'em too (a lot)
We get on the highway and the wing takes the lead there's about a 30 mph headwind and he's cruising 77-78, I pass the Harley after a few miles and pace the wing, the HD's headlight keeps getting smaller and smaller, they might be king of the boulevard but out here on the open road is where the real story is told. Another 20 miles and the wing backs off I don't know if he's waiting on his buddy or tired of the pace, I tell my wife there's two more prospective BMW buyers as they disappear in my mirrors.
At Van Horn we turn north on 54 towards Carlsbad a 100 miles, the speed limit is 55 on this 2 lane backroad and I tell my wife we should be there by 5 pm.
I hadn't counted on....."the construction zone from Hell" suddenly the road turns to dirt, we've done this before so I go on, there he is another flagman out in the middle of nowhere, he's a nice guy but I don't like hearing "about 30 minutes" for the second time today. He must be using Texas time cause nearly an hour later the pilot truck brings the southbound traffic through in a big (Texas sized) cloud of dust. We get to go now, I'm trying to leave some space between him and me so I don't have to eat his dust and apparently he thinks I can't keep up so he slows down to 10 mph I'm struggling with the LT in the soft dirt and gravel and now I have to deal with a moron on top of it, some big trucks cross the road and stir up a monster cloud of dust with 0 visibility, I accelerate trying to get through it and he STOPS right in the middle, I'm losing my patience with this inbred @#$ I let him get ahead, maybe he's figured it out when it gets even more interesting, loose gravel and I don't mean a little, it's 6-8 inches deep now I really can't keep up, the front wheel is going left, right anywhere but where I point it I'm still not sure how I got through it, I'm a good rider but not that good. the construction went on for what must have been ten miles or maybe only 5 in Texas, my bike is covered with dirt and so are we, I must have eaten a small bushel basket full of dirt today, my nose is packed full of dirt and I don't even want to think about my airfilter.
Back on pavement, 50 miles to Carlsbad we get there around 7 pm, its been quite a day.
453 miles

[gulfxray]

The Border Patrol experience was a new one for me also - they are everywhere! I think the tractor tire thing is to smooth out the dirt so they can come along later and see footprints - I have heard other nations do that along their borders (ie Isreal).

Sorry you hit the construction on 54 - I had avoided it because I heard it was bad bad bad. That is one place the LT does NOT shine... ;-)

All in all, it's a wonderful bike - I think sometimes it's only limitation is the rider...

Keep the adventures coming Hans!

[SilverBuffalo]

Carlsbad New Mexico day # 9

Today is maintenance day, we need to catch up on some things, I start out with an hour or so on the computer before hunger motivates me to get going, we cruise into Carlsbad and find a nice breakfast place, from there its to the Laundromat
where I strut my stuff wearing shorts and cowboy boots while all my jeans are getting washed, my wife is very fussy about the way laundry is done and I'm being a jerk by standing back and doing "hoopshots" with my jeans into the dryer, sometimes I wonder why she keeps me. Wallmart is next on the agenda we need supplies.
Its well into the afternoon when we head out of town northbound, I don't have a clue where I'm going.
If you like being alone, New Mexico can accommodate you, there is nothing out here for as far as you can see in all directions, we keep riding for a couple of hours more and we are still in the middle of nowhere, if it wasn't for the perfect 77 degree temperature and this awesome motorcycle that we're on I'd be bored to sleep, I'm ready for a change in scenery.
250 miles

[SilverBuffalo]

Moriarty New Mexico day #10

While we were in the 102 degree Texas hill country I questioned my reasoning for bringing along this bag full of cold weather gear stashed in our trailer, this morning I feel vindicated as it's 43 degrees when we leave the motel and we are snug as a bug in a rug in our First Gear HT overpants, Kilimanjaro jackets and those Turtle fur collars, what a great invention.
We turn north towards Santa Fe and in no time its up to 60 degrees, almost no traffic this early in the morning on this rural 2-lane but there's mountains on the horizon.
We top a hill and suddenly there's a truck in my lane, I swerve to the right as the three of us, the bicycle he moved over for, the truck and me pass each other all at the same time.
There's a few more bicycles when we roll into a traffic jam, cars and trucks on both sides of the road unloading and prepping for the upcoming bicycle race, you can tell these guy's are serious about what they preparing for.
Santa Fe is a pretty cool town everything is adobe style buildings including all off your name brand places like KFC or McD,
I-hop and Starbucks where I get my fix for the day, a local suggests I ride up to Taos to see the sights, the road up is great but Taos itself is nothing but a tourist trap with bumper to bumper traffic, I'm glad to get out of it.
We head north on 285 and west on 64, now its gittin good, my ears have popped a couple of times climbing to this elevation and the scenery is incredible, yesterday we were in the middle of nowhere, today we're on top of the middle of nowhere but it sure is pretty up here. We stop at a river and I shoot a couple of pictures after which we continue to climb.
Rio Grande river Gorge bridge we get of the bike and walk onto the bridge in true tourist style, my wife is getting dizzy, she doesn't like heights and wants to turn back, this is a really deep gorge, don't look down I tell her, we're just going to the middle so I can take a couple of pictures, she follows her man reluctantly.
A little further down the road we pass the "earthship" project I remember reading about this 25+ years ago, they were going to try to live inside those buildings for several years, recycling and growing all their own food to see if man could survive for an extended period in space, interesting, they sure picked a remote enough location.
I had to do a u-turn and get this picture, a hanging dummy with a sign posted by an old homestead, he makes his point, very clearly, I sure aint gonna hang around here.
We are still climbing, its getting cold up here, I start watching the altitude on the GPS and I'm amazed.
Pretty soon there's this white stuff on the sides of the road, it ain't like nothing I've ever seen in Florida, my wife wants to put more clothes on, we are at 10,500ft, now I'm getting dizzy and with just a little effort, short of breath.
It is beautiful up here, I'm like a little kid. Here's something you can't do I yell to my wife, I'm writing my name in the snow in yellow.
The sign on the Chama Trails End motel says "bikers welcome", my wife's not impressed, we ask to see the room and her demeanor changes, she's beaming, this is by far the nicest room we had and only $60, fireplace, frig, internet, sauna, hottub, wow. The restaurant accross the street serves a great meal and life is good, very good, I think we're getting the "hang" of this traveling thing.

[jorawro]

I'm sure that I'm not the only one who is enjoying your trip reports Hans --- keep them coming:) .

[Dick]

I'm sure that I'm not the only one who is enjoying your trip reports Hans --- keep them coming:) .
You're not the only one Roy - it's an easy read, isn't it? Great pictures that track the day's ride and that will be of benefit to those that follow along the same paths.

And to think I wuz just a lunch away from shakin' hands with he, and his best friend and riding partner - what a trooper she is. :thumb:

[SilverBuffalo]

And to think I wuz just a lunch away from shakin' hands with he, and his best friend and riding partner - what a trooper she is. :thumb:
Thanks for the encouragement guys I'll keep em coming
Don't give up on me just Dick, you're on my list.
I showed your post to my wife and she said: she's a trooper just for puttin up with me, the rest is easy.

[SilverBuffalo]

Chama New Mexico day # 11

If the lord rested on the seventh day, I figure we can too. I wuz thinking it, then my wife said it early this morning, lets stay another day, in another month the room we're in will rent for $195 and I can see them getting it, although not from me.
We walked next door for breakfast then go down the road to Sunday service.
One of the locals tells me about a waterfall that only flows about 2 weeks a year depending on the snowfall in a place called Brazo about 5 miles south of here, I unhook the trailer and leave it at the hotel, the owner told me there's no crime here, I believe her because just outside my bathroom window sits their pontoon boat, a dozen fishing poles, tackle boxes, coolers, electronics and trolling motor all out in the open and visible from the road, I think about everything I had to remove to secure my boat before we left, it's a different world up here, snowcapped mountains in just about every direction.
We turn onto the road to Brazo and I see the cliffs right away, a few miles further and the road turns to dirt, no wonder my bike's never clean, it starts out pretty good with a lot of nice log cabins and then starts climbing winding and getting narrower, there are a dozen or more deer standing next to the road, I stop a car length away and they just stand there and look at us, my wife talks to them, we roll on, I've got to turn around, it's getting too rutty and I'm gonna break something on this bike if I keep doing this, around the next bend I get a good shot of the falls and we turn around and get on outta there.
Easy day 35 miles half on dirt.

[SilverBuffalo]

Dick
Would you do me this little favor.
While I,m on the road my e-mail is roadrunner web mail and I am unable to attach files.
Yesterday we met a future LT rider named Demacio, he really enjoyed his short time on the LT and even figured out how he could sit between us should we decide to take hime along, I took a couple of pictures of him and promised his mother and niece that I would send them.
If I post the pics here would you copy and attach them and e-mail them to:
aliciaparis30@yahoo.com
jasells2008@yahoo.com

I'm certain they would appreciate it as much as we do

[Dick]

Dick
Would you do me this little favor.
While I,m on the road my e-mail is roadrunner web mail and I am unable to attach files.
Yesterday we met a future LT rider named Demacio, he really enjoyed his short time on the LT and even figured out how he could sit between us should we decide to take hime along, I took a couple of pictures of him and promised his mother and niece that I would send them.
If I post the pics here would you copy and attach them and e-mail them to:
aliciaparis30@yahoo.com
jasells2008@yahoo.com

I'm certain they would appreciate it as much as we do
Hans - sure will. I'm on my laptop at the moment, and they're not downloading. I'll be on the desktop in a bit and see what's happening there. If I have any trouble, I'll ax for some assistance. Stay tuned.

[Dick]

Dick
Would you do me this little favor.
While I,m on the road my e-mail is roadrunner web mail and I am unable to attach files.
Yesterday we met a future LT rider named Demacio, he really enjoyed his short time on the LT and even figured out how he could sit between us should we decide to take hime along, I took a couple of pictures of him and promised his mother and niece that I would send them.
If I post the pics here would you copy and attach them and e-mail them to:
aliciaparis30@yahoo.com
jasells2008@yahoo.com

I'm certain they would appreciate it as much as we do

On their way, Hans. Bet that leetle dude tells all his friends how he got to saddle-up on the Silver Buffalo!! That's great.

Best

BTW - I sent 'em one each per e-mail, just in case those folks have dial-up. Squeezed 'em down a leetle in size, so hope they turned out ok. Maybe we'll hear from 'em. I'll let ya know if I do.

[SilverBuffalo]

Chama New Mexico day # 12

I'm not brave enough to go outside this morning so I turn on the weather channel, we're at 8000 ft and the overnight low was 22, it's only around 32 right now. I shut off the tv, release some internal pressure with a thunderous effect and roll over, this day can wait.
My wife gets up, calls me a bad name and disappears into the bathroom, I guess I must have woke her. :)
Sometime later I wake up and smell coffee, I think about how fortunate I am to have such a wonderful wife.
By 10 am I've run out of excuses and we get on the road, its 43 degrees, the scenery is spectacular but I didn't stop to take any pictures, a hundred miles go by before there's any civilization and we stop for lunch in Farmington NM, when I look at the map I discover we should have turned about 10 miles back so we back track and head north to the Aztec national park where there are some Anasasi ruins, its interesting but not very large, we watch the movie and continue on.
I've plotted a course taking us north into Colorado and Utah, then south into Arizona.
The road to Durango is gaining in elevation, the temperature never reached 60 today and in the last hour the wind has picked up and it's getting colder again activating my wifes "bitch switch" she want's to go to Arizona......now.
Another hour and we'll stop I tell her, I didn't realize we had to go over another mountain first.
By the time we get to Cortez, she shivering and can't get warm, I feel bad that I may have pushed on further than I should have, tomorrow will be warmer I promise her.
220 miles

[SilverBuffalo]

Cortez Colorado day # 13

43 degrees as we leave the motel, I backtrack another 10 miles to get to Mesa Verde National park where the famous cliff dwellings are. From the gate to the ruins is 23 miles and the road is incredible 2nd and 3rd gear hills with switchback hairpin curves where the edges of the road are straight down on both sides, the ruins are pretty interesting, we walk the trails to the overlooks and ride to the next ones. Half the day and 80 miles later we pass the motel where we stayed last night.
We turn south towards 4 corners and into Arizona to a town on the map called Red Mesa. On our last trip out here we stopped in a coffee shop and had some Red Mesa coffee, some of the best we have ever had and I haven't been able to find it since. Red Mesa turns out to be a small indian village of a couple dozen houses. Another 10 miles we turn north on 191 into Utah. Why are we going north, my wife demands, only 30 miles then we'll turn south until we see cactus I promise her.
I want to ride down hwy 163 through monument valley, one of the most photographed stretches of road in the world, I take picture after picture over the windshield running 70 mph+. If you've ever seen a western, you seen some of this landscape, only television doesn't do the scenery justice, the vistas are incredible.
Eventually we ride back into Arizona and it starts to level out, we can see down the road for miles and miles, I'm taking it easy running 68-70 because I don't know what the local law enforcement will allow when a couple of locals pass me, I "fall in" behind them at 80 for the next hour until we roll into Tuba City AZ. We were here 2 years ago and we stayed in that motel my wife says, I do a u-turn, we pay for the room, inspect it and ride a block up the road for a bucket of KFC, we sit in the chairs outside of our room and have a picnic, another good day.
326 miles.

[SilverBuffalo]

Day # 13
just a few more pictures

[SilverBuffalo]

Tuba City Arizona day # 14

We are about 85 miles from the south rim of the Grand Canyon, and there's not a cloud in the Arizona sky, we fuel up and start towards the next national park on our intinerary. An hour and a half later we arrive at the first viewpoint and head for the store to get a cup of coffee, then stroll on over to the edge and take it all in, it's breathtakingly beautiful. Two years ago we visited the north rim and were actually disappointed, seemed like the canyon was overrated especially after seeing Arches, Canyonlands, Bryce and Zion and a few others in Utah. The south rim is better and you get to drive along next to it for 25 miles with multible viewpoints and turnouts.
I meet up with a group of 8 guy's from Holland, they've flown into LA rented Harley's and are seeing the American west and route 66 for a couple of weeks, we meet again as we are leaving the parking lot and continue our conversing in Dutch, my native language, they have never seen a trailer towed behind a motorcycle and are quite intrigued by it. I do a tight u-turn and roll out of the parking lot, they pass us later when my wife and I are parked by the edge for some photo op's, they're having a blast, living their dreams, and so are we.
There are a lot of motorcycles up here, mostly HD's, we're getting closer to Laughlin were the third largest rally in the US is happening this weekend, there are small groups of them coming from all directions. An hour south of the Grand Canyon we turn onto Interstate 40 for a while, when Route 66 re-starts we exit. At the first gas station the sign says $3.59 for premium, fargin bastages, I pass them up and end up reluctantly stopping for $3.44. While I'm filling up a couple of Harley riders I passed earlier pull in and from their conversation I gather that this place serves a pretty good "Buffalo burger" we decide to partake, good choice. We're ready for a couple more hours of Route 66, running along next to a train in this southwestern setting I'm feeling very nostalgic, eventually we roll into Kingman, 30 miles from Laughlin I start to notice a lot of bikes in the motel parking lots. We stop and I pull out my Days Inn and Motel 6 guide books and make a couple of phone calls, just as I thought, all the motels are booked for the weekend and they've doubled the prices, we either stop now and take one of the few remaining vacancies or go at least another 100 miles, the wife says stop.
When we check in I learn that we have passed into yet another time zone and it's an hour earlier than I thought it was.
We'll use the time to do laundry my wife says, insisting that I help her, damn.
I get out of it by volunteering to go get supplies at the grocery store across the street, when I return there are 2 LT's just checking in, they're from Washington state, I recruit them for the BMWLT website, my good deed for the day.
While I'm typing this, just outside my window I keep seeing this little bird fly under my fairing so I watch him for a while, he's picking the bugs out of my radiator grill, how's that for co-operation in nature, I'm happy to be doing my part to help feed the little birds.

[SilverBuffalo]

Kingman Arizona day # 15

We awake to the sound of Harley straight pipes, these boys are anxious to get the party started or maybe just obnoxious.
We pack up and ride 30 miles to Lauglin which looks like a really nice place to live with a lot of new houses and stores and the Colorado river running right throughout the middle of it. All up and down main street its a circus atmosphere with lots of vendors, motorhomes and chrome ponies running all around. Very similar to Daytona and Sturgis.
My wife and I don't care much for crowds, we like people, but just a few at a time, we make the loop through town and turn west, over the mountain, another 20 miles we stop for fuel and a look at the atlas, we are in Nevada, north on 95 a 2-lane with a lot of traffic, I'm stuck behind a tanker, finally a passing lane, as soon as I pull out to pass my Valentine goes of, I stay back until the next passing lane 6 miles up, same thing, damn. In a 30 mile stretch I count 6 radar traps each one right by the passing lane, this is their weekend to make revenue. In Searchlight the only 2 restaurants are packed with Harley riders, I don't want to wait that long so we turn west and head into the Mohave desert, an hour later I'm getting real hungry and look for a place to stop.
My wife does her magic and makes us a couple of delicious sandwiches, right there in the trailer, no waiting and no tipping.
164 ends at interstate 15 which we follow for about 45 miles into the golden state its mostly downhill, there is a constant parade of motorcycles heading the other direction, when we exit in Baker California I spot a Starbucks, right on time, I need a fix.
We fill up the gas tank and I realize why they call it the golden state, 91 octane premium sells for $3.94 a gallon, ouch.
North toward Death Valley, we are really in the desert now, its getting warmer, we get stopped for a construction zone and decide to take the opportunity to change into our mesh jackets. My wife thinks she's lost her debit card, somewhere between the gas station and Starbucks, she panics and franticly searches her jacket pockets, we have to go back, we have to go back, she says over and over, calm down, check again, she finds it in her purse, whew, that was an anxious moment.
When they let us go through the construction there's another surprise for us, fresh tar and gravel, I can hear it rattle-ing inside the fenders and just know that it's going to be all over the bike and trailer, what a mess, when I stop and look things over later I get another surprise a rock has cracked my headlight lens, I just know that's not going to be cheap.

We picked the right day for Death Valley, its cloudy and overcast all day long, keeping the temperature between 75 and 85 depending on the elevation. I begin to understand why people die here, the valley is huge with rugged mountain ranges on both sides, once you get in you can't get out. At 55 mph it takes us all afternoon to ride the lenght of it, this used to be a giant lake or sea, at its lowest point we're at 282 ft below sea level. That's the deepest I have ever been, I've been equalizing and my ears have popping more than any dive trip I've ever been on. Eventually we start to climb out of the valley, and climb and climb, we've been going up for at least 20 miles when we go through the pass we descend into another valley, then back up again, now the curves are starting to get really tight and twisty, this is an awesome road.
When I pulled into the visitors center I heard an awful grinding sound, it stops when I touch the brakes, Death Valley is not a place where I want to have a mechanical problem, the noise can only be heard at a very low speed.
When we get to the motel one of the first things I do is pull the rear brake pads, fearing the worst I'm relieved to find just a minor problem, the pads are just a little "taller" than the rotor and have worn into an "L" shape, the little lip is riding on top of the rotor creating a horrible grinding sound, I knock the lip of both pads with a screwdriver and slide them back into place,
now I'll be able to sleep.

390 miles

[SilverBuffalo]

Day 15
more Death Valley pictures

[SilverBuffalo]

Lone Pine California Day # 16

Talking with some of the people staying in this same motel I learn that the road through Yosemity is closed as well as a couple of other mountain passes north of us, we would have to go almost to Lake Tahoe to be able to cross the Sierra mountain range west of us, now there's a problem I never had to deal with in Florida.
So it has been decided for us, this morning we head south for an hour and a half and cross over Walker pass which is only 5250' and not affected by the lingering snow north of us. The road takes us over the mountains and down to beautiful Lake Isabella, from there I plan to go north through Sequoia national forest, the road runs right along side of a river, we're climbing and twisting up and around these mountains with the sight of white water on our left for what seems like a couple of hours when the road gets really narrow, tight and rough and maybe even a little scary because we're up so high and there are no guardrails or anything else to keep us from crashing down a couple of thousand feet if I make just one little mistake, then suddenly we round a corner and there it is.....the ever so imposing barricade that says ROAD CLOSED, jeesh I wish they had told us this at the bottom of the "hill" I take an odometer reading and we turn around, this road is just as scary going downhill, maybe more so because now we are closer to the edge, on the positive side we get to see the river from our right side, another hour or more we make it back to Kernville on lake Isabella, 28 miles from the turn-around point.
I pick out another west bound road on the map and as we turn onto it, there to greet us is the road signs which we have become so familiar with, steep grades and tight curves not recommended for vehicles over 20'.
I don't want to go down this road says the voice in my intercom system, I'm tired of looking at rocks find us a straight road, I turn around, I'm a little tired of wrestling this big Buffalo and trailer through some of the 2nd and 3rd gear hairpin turns.
The only other road goes to Bakersfield, it starts out as a nice 4 lane but before we get a chance to relax a little it too becomes a twisty 2-lane along the side of a whitewater river. The road surface is much better and the curves are more like sweepers so I wick it up a little, you're going to fast says the voice in my intercom, I'm not scraping anything I say in my defense and there's traffic I have to keep up the pace. We start to come out of the mountains and are seeing things we haven't seen for a while, trees, I really hadn't thought about it but we have been in the desert for about a week, it sure is nice to see some green. Bakersfield is much to crowded for us, we can't wait to get out of town and run away as fast as we can, until we see a suitable motel.

317 miles

[SilverBuffalo]

Lindsay California Day # 17

I catch up on some sleep this morning, this 3 hour time change has got me all screwed up, I can no longer deal with all the dirt on my bike and trailer so I fill up the motel trash can with water and some of her laundry soap and clean the Buffalo up the best I can, when I get all done she sticks her head out the door and says: why didn't you just take it over to the carwash while pointing behind the gas station next to us, now you tell me, don't ya just hate it when they do that.
After my shower I see she has everything neatly packed and ready to go, I've trained her well.
Today we are going to go and see the giant Sequoia trees, the General Sherman tree is supposed to be the biggest tree in the world but first she wants to have breakfast and not just any breakfast she wants a Cracker Barrel, I find one on the computer in Visalia on airport drive, we're on our way. Airport drive turns out to be a road that dead ends, where else? into the airport, maybe it's the other way, there's a lot of traffic because there's a renascence festival going on, participants in period dress all around us, I chuckle, there's a guy with animalskins on his back and a sword at his waist standing by the gate, he looks cool but that bluetooth thingy sticking out of his ear just doesn't belong, why do people do that? why not hang a sign around your neck that says (hi, I'm a jerk).
I've been riding around in a circle for 40 miles now and still haven't found a Cracker Barrel, I tell her that I going one more exit south and if it isn't there we're going somewhere else, there's a sign for Apple Annies I turn in, it turns out to be a very nice restaurant with good food, so after all my searching for just the right place to have breakfast my wife orders... a bowl of oatmeal, I don't understand? I love that woman, but sometimes she just makes me crazy.
With the three egg omelet, hashbrowns, biscuit and 4 cups of coffee in me, I'm ready to go for a ride.
This is a very fertile valley, they say used to its full potential this valley can feed 65% of the worlds population, grapevines on both sides of the road as far as you can see,avocado trees, then orange groves, the blossom smell fills the air, man this is nice, everything is so green.
Lake Kaweah is our first stop, it's huge and gorgeous, surrounded by mountains, we sit and watch the ski-boats cruising by.
A little further up the Generals highway and we enter Sequoia National park, the giants are at 6700' I forget to mention that to my wife, at the visitors center she comes out the restroom and says: there's lots of snow up there, we're not going that far I say with my fingers crossed. We're going up for 20 miles according to the Ranger, this road is beautiful but intense, I never get out of 3rd gear with many 10 mph 1st and 2nd gear hairpin curves. It makes the "Dragon" seem like childsplay, if I had to rate them on a scale of 1-10 with the "dragon" being a 9 this road must be a 15-17, we pass 4000' mark, the voice in my intercom says: I don't like these roads. Did I mention they are intense? At 4370' there's a scenic overlook, she asks me to "stop here please" once she gets of the bike she tells me: that's it I'm done, call me a taxi cause I'm not going any further and she means it.
Turns out she's not feeling well and the intensity of the road has made her even more nauchious, it takes some serious sweet-talking to get her back on the bike, we go back down..... slowly. I guess it must be like seasickness because once the road straightens out she's fine again, lets find us a place for the night and just rest a little I tell her.

[SilverBuffalo]

Tulare California Sunday 4/30 Day # 18
We start our day by attending Sunday service and as usual meet some very nice people that are interested in where we are from, and where we are going next, there is just something about a motorcycle that is an instant conversation starter.
That was our dream says a lady pointing to our bike, my husband and I were going to do that when we retired......he passed away about 6 years ago as her voice trails off, overcome by emotion. He loved motorcycles she comes back, well I'm sure he would have liked this one I say to her trying to change the course of our conversation, this is A BMW K1200LT, the LT stands for luxury touring, it's got heated leather seats and backrest, even the handgrips are heated and look at this the windshield goes up and down at just the touch of a button, XM satellite radio and a GPS to let you know when you made the last wrong turn. I can tell she's not really interested in the bike itself but the unrealized dream it represents to her.
As we depart I think about how fortunate we are to be able to do what so many can only dream about, I sure have a lot to be thankful for. We make a quick stop at a market for some water and Gatorade and roll outta town.
We are in the agricultural part of California now, these farm are immense, crops as far as you can see in all directions, a couple of miles of Alfalfa, wheat, soybeans, some kindoff melon I can't identify, orchards of mango's interrupted by oranges and I think peach trees, it just goes on and on, we cruise in and out of small towns, a main street with 2 or 3 gas stations and a couple of Taco joints, we may as well be in a foreign country because the last 3-4 towns we went through I never saw a white man, they're probably at home counting all the money they are making from the sweat of the illegal migrants.
The terrain gradually changes from flat to green rolling hills, it sure is pretty here says the voice in my intercom, I'm tired of looking at rocks. We follow 41 as it merges with 46 just outside of Cholame and stop at the rest area, an old guy that resembles Santa is picking up little pieces of litter and changing out the trash bags, he comes over and gives the bike a long hard look and proceeds to tell me his life's story..... and James Dean died at the last intersection you just went through back there, when you leave here follow this road as he points on my atlas. He wanders away slowly and as we mount up I notice he's now sitting at a table with a few Harley riders that pulled in right after we did, I'll bet this guy loves his job I say to my wife, he just goes from table to table and talks with people, that's great.
The road he sent us down is a very nice country back road with lots of green hills and gently sweeping curves and almost no traffic, something California has plenty of.
The plan is to stop early this evening, take everything out of the trailer and saddlebags and eliminate some weight, we stop for gas and I see a motel across the street, I pull out my Super 8 book and call him, this is a little trick that I've learned and it works, he quotes me an attractive rate and we ride across the street and check in.
130 miles

[SilverBuffalo]

Atascadero California Monday 5/1 Day # 19
We've filled a bag with things we brought along and haven't used yet or don't really need, the plan is to lighten our trailer some, the Buffalo has been working pretty hard on these steep mountain roads, it has taken some incredible abuse over the last couple of weeks. I've found a pack&send place in the phone book, that will be our first stop this morning.
While packing the bike I go to get some ice for the cooler and the middle eastern motel owner comes out of the lobby with a bucket full, da iise masheen no woijk so goot, he says (I think) he's hard to understand but one of the most helpful and friendliest motel owners we have met, and I tell him so when we check out. I would go a hundred miles out of my way to come and stay with you again I say to him, I can tell by his smile, I've just made his day.
When I put the bag on the scale at the pack&send it groans 25lbs and the smiling lady behind the counter says: that'll be $46 to send home more stuff than you needed for a six month trip, or something like that, we're still learning and education has always been expensive. After a good cup of Starbucks, we're on our way, we pass the motel again on our way out of town and the owner is out in the parking lot waving until we are out of sight my wife tells me.
The ride starts out pleasantly cool until we get a few miles from the coast where a wall of sea fog is waiting for us, in about 2-3 miles the temperature drops 10 degrees, we have to stop and put more clothes on, visibility drops down to a dozen or so car lengths and we are at the Pacific before we know it, because...... well because we can't see it. I get of the bike and walk through the sand and finally see some water and a couple of surfers in wetsuits, this must be California.
We ride along highway 1 in and out of fog, it's stunningly beautiful when we can see it, the sign says vista view and we pull in, lets have a picnic and wait for some of this fog to burn off I say to my onboard cook, while she reaches for some crackers we get a furry little visitor, a squirrel comes out of his little burrow looking for a handout, she tosses him a piece of cracker, he grabs it and runs away, then comes back with a couple of friends who are also looking for a handout, they favor the wheatchecks, we're having fun, by now there's 6 of them running around the bike and hiding under the trailer, the seagulls have spotted the food, now we have to put it away or put our helmets on to protect us from.......... well you know what seagulls do. The fog is almost completely gone now, we ride on, clear blue sky, fantastic scenery, we round the corner and there's another fog bank, it clears up when we get to Big Sur, we see the first Redwood trees, I stop to take a picture of a deer warning sign with a red reflector strategically placed, California humor. Coming out of the tree lined streets and back on the coast line the wind has picked up tremendously the gusts are strong enough to blow us around and unexpectantley hit us rounding the mountain sides, it's not a good feeling to get hit with a 20-30mph gust while you're leaned over in a curve, I have to slow down some.
Some idiot starts tailgating and flashing their lights, I'm doing 45 with 20 and 30 mph recommended curve speeds, I use a turnout to let "her" by, typical California driver. This would be a great place to live if the people here had some manners, but alas they don't, certainly not while driving. We have a lot of tourists in Florida also most drivers will give an out of state license plate some slack. It didn't take long to figure out that's not going to happen here, they've got "a tude" almost like they resent you being here, let me re-phrase that, just leave out the almost.

163 miles

[SilverBuffalo]

More pictures

[SilverBuffalo]

Monterey California Tuesday 5/2 Day # 20
We stopped early last night because of the wind, it,s much calmer this morning but still cold. Thirty miles north we stop at a local breakfast place for some food and hot coffee. The owner of the place stops by our table. how old is the ocean he asks, do you know why it's so old? Because it's always making waves! What happens to water when its stagnant? That's why I walk the beach every morning, He wants to be as old as the ocean he tells us, interesting perspective, the 1960's must have been very good for him.
Back on highway one, the fog is just clearing when we see a very picturesque light house and decide to stop and take it in, I take the bike down a dirt 2-track to get a better angle for picture taking and right away I'm in trouble, the ruts are so deep they could easily swallow my wheel , a fourwheel drive truck tore this up during the last rain storm, I tell the wife to get of the bike and now I've got to figure out how to get out of here. I park the bike and walk the trail, its bad, here I go, standing on the pegs, powering the big LT out of there. Why do I keep doing this to this fine machine?

The road is closed up ahead another landslide, we detour inland, it's slow going over the mountain with a lot of traffic, a crotch rocket passes me in my lane and weaves through traffic out of sight and pisses of me and a bunch of other motorists in doing so, that's just one more reason why people hate motorcycles.
I'd rather not take the interstate but there's no other way to get through San Francisco, a few miles up the road the CHP has got the crotch rocketeer on the side of the road, now who's faster?
I leave the interstate racetrack for hwy 1 through San Francisco and it's unique architecture on our way to the Golden Gate Bridge, at the bridge view point a bus load of orientals are taking turns posing for the bridge and Alcatraz, we meet an interesting couple from England on a rented Harley that have just rode hwy1 from Washington down to SF, the direction we are going, they think its warm here.
Back on the coast highway the wind has picked up again, there's a lot of construction and wash-outs from all the rain they've had here, a couple of hours and we are both tired of the wind and the intensity of the road.
We now have sore necks from the wind blowing us and our helmeted heads around, my delicate wife has bruises on her hands from holding on so tight, she doesn't like these roads. She is not comfortable around heights and most of these roads are straight down on one side and straight up on the other, add to that mix a testosterone driven ego powering an 850lb motorcycle around these curves as fast as his cahones allow him to and from a passengers perspective it loses some of its luster, time to go inland.

193 miles

[SilverBuffalo]

Santa Rosa California Wednesday 5/3 Day # 21
We are going east this morning through wine country, I think this is the Napa valley, we pass by a large farm with a sign on the gate that says "Asti" so this is where it comes from. Another road closure has us going north further than we intended, around a lake and through a town called Nice, it sure is. I think I've figured out why Californian's are in such a hurry, they're all "wired" there's an Espresso shop on every corner, "caffeine rules" we pick out one that looks good to us and tank up.
The sign on the wall says "coffee, the foundation of consiousness" I like that and I think it applies to me as well.
Back on the road we are trying to identify what type of trees are in the groves we have riding through for the last twenty + miles, a sign gives us a clue, Walnuts and a lot of them.
A cop has fell in behind me, not a problem, I'm doing close to the speed limit, I saw him going the other way, he must have turned around to check me out, he stays back quite a ways and follows me for 10-20 miles, the sign warns reduced speed ahead, I back of to 55, next sign, 45 etc, when it hits 35 he hits me with radar, what a cheap shot, he's followed me long enough to know I am abiding the law, still he tries to nail me at the lowest possible speed. What a punk, no wonder everybody hates cops. This has nothing to do with enforcing the law, its about revenue and ambushing law abiding citizens. Go get the idiots that tailgate me when I'm doing 10 over then zoom around in a reckless manner before I have a chance to get over into the turnout, only to be right in front of me at the next intersection.
After we check in to the motel there's a guy out in the parking lot with a flat tire on his car, I pull the nail out of his tire and plug it with my stop&go plug gun then inflate his tire to 32psi with my little onboard compressor, he's thankful and impressed.
I think I should start putting notches on my plug gun, this makes 3 car tires I have repaired with it so far.
260 miles

[SilverBuffalo]

Redding California Thursday 5/4 Day # 22
I have an 8 am appointment with Rick Mayer the seat maker, I bought a seat from him last year just a couple of weeks before he rode the Iron Butt rally, poor timing on my part because I think his mind was on the upcoming ride instead of my seats, I ended up returning the passenger seat immediately because of poor quality and have not been very happy with my seat either, I told him so back then and he just blew me off, I was not a very happy customer, the guy really pissed me of.

We arrive and I tell him what I think is wrong with the seat, he takes the blame, says he should have done this and that, etc.
within 10 minutes he's got the cover pulled of my seat and starts redoing it, we chat about the Iron Butt rally and my impression of him starts to change, an hour and a half later my seat is completely rebuilt and we have had the grand tour of the Mayer estate while his helper is finishing up. I ask him "what do I owe you" nothing, adjustments are free for the life of the seat, I thank him while feeling like a jerk for badmouthing him. He offers to show us a shortcut to 299 and climbs on his K1200S, the LT is no match for the S, in a couple of seconds he's out of sight, when we round the next corner we catch up and he holds the speed down to a comfortable pace, how's the seat feel, he asks? better now that I've turned the heater of!
Fifteen minutes later we split off, he heads east toward Redding, we go west toward Eureka and the giant Redwood trees.

Highway 299 runs along side the Trinity river, long easy sweepers take us over the mountain and into the next valley, this is the nicest road we've been on since we have been in California says the voice in my intercom, she's probably right, there's not much traffic and quite a bit of law enforcement, they work this stretch of road well and they're making money.
I'm running the speed limit enjoying the scenery while the locals fly by at warp speed, we pass 'em a little later while they're collecting their "green stamps" in a hundred and fifty miles we've seen 10-15 cops and most of them had a customer.

We cross over a bridge and now the river is on our right hand side, the sign says "picnic area" I turn in, excuse me mam, would you be interested in having a picnic with a strikingly handsome and somewhat dashing middle aged fat man I ask my wife, she graciously accepts, soon we're having lunch next to a whitewater river in the California mountains and wishing this trip will never end.

According to the GPS we're less than 20 miles from the coast, so we must climbing the last summit, as we near the top the temperature starts dropping, at first we think it's the altitude but it's getting colder as we go down, in less than ten minutes it goes from 85 degrees down to 61, it's the afternoon seabreeze coming of the 50 degree Pacific, My wife claims the windchill factor is -11 and wants more clothes, we're back on the coast.
186 miles

[Shogun54]

Hans,

Don't remember where you're headed, but US199 into Oregon is great fun if it's on your way! The wife may not enjoy it as much as you, but the last time I rode it, the locals pulled over every chance they got to let me through.

[SilverBuffalo]

Fortuna California Friday 5/5 Day # 23
We checked into a Super 8 about ten miles north of the "avenue of the giants" last night and today we are going to ride through the Redwood trees, something she's been talking about for a couple of weeks now. It's cloudy, overcast and only 47 degrees outside so we take our time getting started. When we turn onto the "avenue" there's a simultaneous "whoa" from both of us, words cannot describe the magnificance of these thousand year old giants, we are humbled and in awe all at the same time, these trees are so tall that light cannot filter in, its dark in this forest. We ride on slowly absorbing as much as we can and stop at the immortal tree, 250' tall, a thousand years old and it just happens to be sitting next to a souvenir shop. It's an impressive tree but so are a lot of other ones in this forest, this one is just better advertised, we roll on to a place called founders grove, named for the people that had the insight to preserve these trees from the loggers.
We park and secure everything inside the tourpack and trailer and go for a walk in the woods.
Redwood trees don't have a very large root system considering how tall they are and with enough rain and wind some will topple over, the branches then become new trees and the cycle continues. The trees that are laying on the ground are the lenght of a football field and more with a diameter of a schoolbus. Time just kinda slipped away from us in the forest, next thing I know it's 1.30 and we haven't had breakfast or lunch yet. We ride on through the darkness of the forest, my GPS can't get a signal down here and the female voice in my right ear keeps repeating "lost satellite reception", the other ear gets a voice message "I've got to P" isn't technology a wonderful thing. We pull up in front of the Avenue cafe which looks like another tourist trap but turns out to be one of only three places were we've gotten a good meal in the last three weeks.
When we leave there I look at the odometer, in the last 5 hours we've logged 33 miles in another 15 minutes we run out of the avenue, it doesn't take us long to figure out what to do next, we turn around and ride back through again.
77 miles

[SilverBuffalo]

Fortuna California 5/6 Day # 24
While I'm packing up the trailer this morning a Goldwing rider staying in the same motel stops by to chat, we saw you about 3-4 days ago on the coast highway I tell him, he left the Niagara Falls area about 2 days before we started and is making a loop similar to ours on his way to Alaska. When we pull out of the motel parking lot it's 51 degrees, its a sharp biting type of cold that cuts to the bone right through all the gear we are wearing, just a half hour later I stop in front of a breakfast place for some hot coffee while the sun burns of some of this fog and cloud cover. It worked, the sun has come out and its starting to warm up.
This is the last stretch of 101 in California, changing from narrow ocean side to mountainous 4-lane sweepers and back again. There are Elk crossing warning signs, I do a sudden u-turn and stop, there's a large herd of Elk grazing in the field below, they've seen me and just continue grazing, they look like mule-deer and are the size of a horse, I would not want to see one of them in the road in front of me. By now a couple of cars have stopped also, we move on.
Just north of Crescent city we turn of on 199 back into the Redwood trees, I see an RT with a Unigo pull out of a gas station up ahead and try to catch up to him, the road starts out with some tight twisties and when I see the angle of the lean on the RT going into the first curve I know I'm not going to be able to catch him, this guy is a serious "canyon carver".
A while later I pull over for a photo-op and he cruises by, not sure how that happened, I watch him going into the next curve and there's no doubt in my mind, this guy is good, he wicks that RT through the curves like poetry in motion.
The color of the water in the river down below is incredible, standing way up here I can see that its crystal clear.
I walk a couple of steps out of sight down the embankment, my wife is shaking her head, she knows about my fetish, when there's a large vertical drop I want to leave my scent just like a dog, hey it's a "man" thing.
A little further down the road we leave California for Oregon and the next phase of our adventure, I'm feeling some regret, I really like northern California. This is my first time in Oregon, it looks like I thought it would, nice.
We're coming down a hill onto a curving bridge crossing a real pretty river, when I look back to the road there's a large piece of wood laying diagonally in my lane, in a fraction of time I make an evasive move around the end of this 2x12, the bike misses the board but one wheel of the trailer catches the end of it, hope there's no nails in it, I watch the wheel in my mirror for a while, I guess it's fine, whew, that was quick.
There's at least a half dozen Harleys and a couple of Goldwings in the motel parking lot, we decide to check in anyway, before I get "unloaded" there's a crowd gathered around the LT, you know, I would be pretty good at selling these bikes.
What are the yellow armbands for I ask, there's a big AA convention in town, each one of these guys has a story and an addiction. I think of the words in a song "grease monkey, ex-junky, winner of the fight" most of us have things we had to overcome and conquer, I'm glad you got your life back I tell them, it's much to precious to waste.

206 miles

[indianut]

Hey Man sounds like you are having a blast!!! It is RAINING here for the first time since Jan. 30! Keep the pics coming. Danny

[SilverBuffalo]

Grants Pass Oregon 5/7 Sunday Day # 25
I made a mistake and today I paid for it, one of the guys at the motel told us about a great little Chinese restaurant a couple of blocks away, we walked there and ate, the food was good and plentiful. Then I awoke in the middle of the night and knew I was in trouble, you see I'm allergic to MSG it triggers my migraines and the migraines I get are incapacitating.
I spent most of the day in the dark in bed with earplugs in. I lost the whole day, the wife did laundry.
0 miles

Grants Pass Oregon 5/8 Monday Day # 26
Its 58 degrees when we start out of town this morning, just a few miles north on the interstate we start to gain altitude and lose temperature, a rest area provides the opportunity to put our electric vests on, it's chilly. there's a GS sitting in the parking area, a 2006 his first BMW, he's returning home from a three day adventure around crater lake on his new bike, the guy is beaming, I'm happy for him. We get of the interstate at our first opportunity in Roseburg and head toward the coast, now's when it starts getting good, rolling green hills and easy 55 mph sweepers. Oregon is a beautiful place, you could retire here and easily live a very quiet unhurried life I tell my wife, she responds with: we are retired, I still haven't got that through my head yet, but I like the sound of it so much I ask her to tell me again.
Pine trees as far as the eye can see, the sky a pale blue and air so fresh and clean.....aahhh, there is no industry here, except for tourism and... logging, there are more logging trucks than cars on the roads, and they're in a big hurry, I stay out of their way. At the covered bridge turnout we pull up next to two Champagne colored Goldwings, I kid the riders Doug and Jack that the only way they can tell them apart is by their stuffed animals on the tourbox. Doug tells me that they just returned from a Wing "ding" at Lake Tahoe where there were about 6 Champagne colored bikes parked outside the motel. The husband of one couple with matching his&hers bikes came out in the morning and proceeded to clean the windshields of their bikes, Jack being a gentleman allowed him to finish, then thanked him and pointed out that his wifes bike was actually the one next to his, now that's funny.
The closer we get to the coast the colder and more windy it gets with 20-30 mph gusts blowing us around we push on,
I've seen a sign for Seal caves, it's time for us to act like tourists again. The attraction is well worth a visit, a lot more real when you can smell and hear the seals on the rocks below and in the cave, a natural wonder.
I photographed the light house and then tried some "trick" photography by holding my binoculars up to the camera, it actually worked, cool. My wife is shivering and can't get warm, we turn around and go back to Florence for a Motel.

226 miles

[SilverBuffalo]

Florence Oregon 5/9 Tuesday Day # 27
I walk across the street to the coffee shop this morning, wanting something better than motel coffee. Did you get gas asks the girl behind the counter? Not till later, I walked over. Then your coffee is free, she says. Thank you, that starts my day out right, there's a different attitude in these smaller towns, I like it.
The wind is blowing as hard as it was yesterday and my wife wants me to leave the coast, at our first stop up the road I'm looking at the sky and the water with my jacket unzipped and talking about what a beautiful day it is while she's all bundled up and shaking from the cold. My extra 40 lbs of seal blubber turns out to be an advantage out here on the coast.
A few miles up the road we turn East, and head inland, within 10 miles it starts to warm up. We make a stop at a county park for a drink and a snack, until I figure out that we parked downwind from the porto-lets, we've got to go, hurry up!
I ask her if she wants to take a break from riding and do a little shopping, of course she does. To keep a woman from shopping is like, well like, keeping a man from his tools. In just a couple of hours she has renourished her femininity level and we're rolling down the road again. All these roads lead to Portland and I don't want end up there during rush-hour so I turn of on a 2-lane rural road, an hour later I'm lost, the road I'm on keeps turning and paralleling the road I'm trying to get to until it dead ends or turns to dirt, I turn around, again. My GPS is a p.o.s. I tell my wife, its lying to me again, "that's my story and I'm sticking to it", eventually due to my superior navigational skills and in spite of my GPS I find my way back to a road that actually goes somewhere, because "no matter where you go, there you are" (you may want to write that down)
We round a bend and start down a hill, that's the Columbia river I tell my wife and the other side of that river is Washington state, after we cross that bridge we'll get us a motel.
263 miles

[NOGILLS2]

Thanks Hans! I am having a sleepless night and have read through your reports. I have enjoyed them. Last year the wife and I rode out to Co and your coments have me rotflmao! There were times that I cussed that intercom system cause I got tired of hearing the coments from the pass seat. At first I thought our wives must be sisters.

Keep the reports coming. Your coment about the lady that lost her husband, brought back some thoughts, I had a close call in 2001 and it is amazing how that changes your perspetive on what is important. Since 2001, my whole world has changed, what a wakeup call I had. I now work about half as much as I did and play twice as much, and am enjoying my life and family.

Have fun and enjoy every moment of your trip.

[SilverBuffalo]

Since 2001, my whole world has changed, what a wakeup call I had. I now work about half as much as I did and play twice as much, and am enjoying my life and family.

Have fun and enjoy every moment of your trip.

Thanks for the kind words Floyd.
Life can be perculiar, sometimes what you think is the worst that could happen turns out to be a wakeup call that causes you to "get your life back", it sounds like you did.

I turned down some real good opportunities to be able to do this trip,
instead of going "for the money" we decided to go for life itself.
I kid my wife that I'll probably be "a Wallmart greater" when I'm 70 just to make ends meet, but at least I'll have had "a life"

[Dick]

Thanks for the kind words Floyd.
Life can be perculiar, sometimes what you think is the worst that could happen turns out to be a wakeup call that causes you to "get your life back", it sounds like you did.

I turned down some real good opportunities to be able to do this trip,
instead of going "for the money" we decided to go for life itself.
I kid my wife that I'll probably be "a Wallmart greater" when I'm 70 just to make ends meet, but at least I'll have had "a life"
Boy oh boy, Hans. I sure am glad we gotcha in this forum family. You're a great inspiration, along with your lady.

When I grow up, I wanna be just like you!! Well, maybe not the 'greeter' part - I think I'd rather work in the bakery!!! :D :D

[SilverBuffalo]

Castle Rock Washington 5/10 Wednesday Day # 28
I pulled my rear brake pads again last night and added some brake fluid, so first thing this morning I start the bike to see If my ABS lights still flash, they do. I go back and reread the advice I got from the forum and it says fill both reservoirs, this things got two rear brake reservoirs? Sure enough, there it is, I add a little more brake fluid and its fixed, this bike is so sophisticated it knows when the pads are worn or the brake fluid is low. Incredible.
As long as I'm fixing things, today I'm going to fix one more thing, I've follow the directions and about a hundred miles from the motel room we turn into the drive with the sign that says "Gerbings heated clothing" we walk in and I tell the girl: I want my wife to be warm. Several hours later we leave empty handed because they are going to do some overnight alterations for us. Just down the street we pick up highway 101 and follow it north along the shore of Hood canal, on the other side of the water there's a mountain range with snowcapped mountains, crab traps and oyster bars are plentiful along with relics of old wooden boats whose seaworthy days have long been forgotten, we stop at a drive up Espresso hut and have a cup just to look at the scenery for a while. A long necked goose starts inching his way across the lawn towards us, justahonkin away, at first we think he's looking for a handout but as he gets closer he puts his neck down in the attack position, my wife is concerned that he might come around and bite her on the butt, I'm inclined to agree with the web footed fellow.
To impress my bride with my bravery I get up and advance toward the goose, he stands his ground, I wave my jacket at him and he reluctantly retreats but not very far. We cautiously gear up and mount up keeping a close eye on our advisory.
The road continues to wind around next to the shore where at one point there's a herd of Elk grazing 50 yards from the road, regretfully it's too narrow and there's too much traffic to stop, we ride on for a couple of more hours before I turn east and south across the Hood canal floating bridge. We're making a big circle to set us up for tomorrow.
236 miles

[SilverBuffalo]

Gig Harbor Washington 5/11 Thursday Day # 29
This place is as beautiful as it is cold, the sky this morning is a dark grey and the forecast calls for showers, we bundle up and roll out of the motel parking lot. It doesn't take long before the weatherman's prophecy is fulfilled, it starts drizzling. When we left Florida it had been 43 days without rain, add to that the 29 days we've been on the road also without any rain and you can understand that neither of us is bothered by a little precipitation. We duck into a Burger King and before we've finished our bacon/egg biscuit and coffee the rain has stopped. A stop for fuel then groceries and we've used up enough time to get back to Gerbings at noon, where she slips into her new heated garments. A half hour down the road we turn into a state park where I screw a couple more wires into the BlueSea fuse box activating the dual thermostats. I had planned to do this at the motel this evening but the black clouds on the horizon made me re-think that. It works out well, the sky looks better and my little "muffin" has now become my "toasted little muffin" we re-trace highway 101 along the Hood canal and this time turn west, it gets colder with every mile and she's not even complaining, when we pull into Sequim its 48, I've got to check the map I tell her, the sky is dark up ahead, and its getting late, I'm concerned that we might get "caught" out in the middle of nowhere, I think we should go ahead and find a room for the night in this town, I tell her.
We have come almost as far north and west as we can go in America and are almost in the absolute furthest place from home that we can be without crossing international borders, something to think about while we rest for the night.
211 miles

[SilverBuffalo]

Sequim Washington 5/12 Friday Day # 30
A clear blue sky greets us this morning, could the weatherman be wrong?
As we turn onto highway 101 we can see all of the snowcovered Mount Anderson and Mt. Olympus, which is a very unique place, a rain forest with glaciers, the temperatures here averages 42 in winter to 72 in summer, this morning is more like a winters day, its 43 degrees out here. Twenty miles down the road we roll through Port Angeles, there's a huge ship in the harbor, its the ferry boat to British Columbia which we can see on the other side of the Straits.
We take the 112 cutoff, this is the northern most road in the western USA, at the end of it is mile marker 0, according to the locals America starts there. The 70 inches off annual rainfall makes this place the most lush green and dense forest I have ever seen, there are so many ferns and the thickest moss is covering all the trees. The road started out gently curving, but now the curves are getting tighter, there's a loggers truck in the ditch, what a mess, the temperature is struggling to reach 50 and the rain isn't helping that very much. At Clallam Bay we duck into a gas station and while we're there it starts raining harder, there's a restaurant a mile down the road and this may be a real good time to have breakfast, as we get there it stops raining. We eat and as we step outside it starts again, only this is not rain, its hail, they're only pea sized but they hurt, ouch. A mile down the road it stops, starts, etc. for the next several hours.
Neah Bay is the last "town" beyond that is the nation of Makah an indian reservation, the sign says recreational permit required for entry, I ignore it and follow the road just to see where it ends, its a residential area the kind we try to avoid in the inner cities. We do a u-turn, I get some real bad "vibes" this is not a good place for us to be I tell my wife, a growling dog runs at my motorcycle. We've seen it now lets get outta here. We follow the road back 28 miles in and out of rain, then turn southbound.
Considering this place is cold and wet 99% of the time, its only fitting that we experienced it like that I say into the intercom, I'm glad I visited, but wouldn't want to live here, she agrees. Eventually the road starts to dry up and there's some blue on the horizon, 101 connects with the coast and suddenly there's the beach and an abundance of blue sky, why do they call it Ruby beach she says, we turn in and it becomes obvious, its a jewel. We decide to have a little picnic.
Now we complete the Olympic National Park circle a couple more hours south then east and we are back in Olympia, just in time for Friday night rushhour.
355 miles

[meese]

Glad you got the ABS light fixed. And heated gear is great, unless you never ride below 60 degrees. Keep the ride reports and pictures coming. :)

BTW, is that Nessie in front of that big rock?

[SilverBuffalo]

Centralia Washington 5/13 Saturday Day # 31
My dilemma this morning is which direction to go, after studying the map I decide on state road 12 east bound this will take us north of mount Saint Helens and south of Rainier. The area is mostly agricultural I see cherry trees and a lot of grapevines. The day is ideal for motorcycling as is the road, gently curving with gradual changes in elevation. As we come around the mountain we get our first glimpse of mount Rainier it stands out from all the others because at over 14000" it's completely covered with snow. We stop for fuel and I grab some fresh fried chicken and carry it out to the bike, five minutes down the road there's a park with picnic tables just the way I planned it. The girl behind the counter informed us, we have to go over White pass, 4000 and some feet up. The LT climbs the mountain with ease, hauling the loaded trailer, my pretty wife and my chicken fed fat @ss to the top in no time. The scenery in the Cascade mountains is nothing short of fantastic, tall pines, cascading waterfalls, frozen lakes and a great road. There's still snow up here, yet the temperature is 62 degrees, nice.
There's a guy and his wife sitting on the tailgate of his truck enjoying the view and a sandwich, hey mister would you take our picture with mount Rainier in the back ground, thank you, enjoy your lunch.
We have been going down the other side of the mountain for a long time, the green is slowly fading out and has been replaced by brown, there's a lot of real rugged looking lava rock on both sides of the road interrupted only by desert terrain.
around 4 pm we roll into Yakima, find me a car wash I tell my lookout, I need to get this rain and road grime of the bike and trailer. We're not having any luck, then I see a bunch of teenagers washing cars, looks like a highschool fund raiser, we turn in. Sorry we're done for the day when we finish these cars, they direct me to the carwash.
I stop at a suitable motel where I find out there's "no room at the inn" there are several events in town and everything is booked as are the neighboring towns 30 miles in each direction. We get back on the road, we've been in this situation before, I vow to stop earlier on Friday and Saturday nights. An hour down the road we get a room.

276 miles

[SilverBuffalo]

Kennewick Washington 5/14 Sunday Day # 32
We started the day by calling the front desk to tell them we'll be staying another day, we're taking the day off.
This is a real nice room complete with a kitchenette, stove, dishes, silverware etc. There's a grocery store next door and a half dozen restaurants across the street. We are both tired of restaurant food, I'm gonna cook you lunch I tell my favorite girl, lets go shopping.We pickup some groceries and stop into Big Lotts for some spray wax for the bike.
A half hour later I set the table, on her plate is a Buffalo burger smothered in onions with a butter laden half of sweet potato and Godiva ice cream for desert. Then I top it off by reminding her what a lucky woman she is to have such a great cook for a husband. After lunch I lay on the bed, burping and watching TV, while she does the dishes, life is good

[mikeinpgh]

Hans
Thanks for these ride reports. I look forward to reading them.
Enjoy your trip and keep them coming
thanks again

[LoneRider]

Dear Cousin Hans,

This is your cousin Mike in Michigan! Teddy sent me the BMW trip link two weeks ago and I am just now getting signed up to post a reply to you. I have some serious reading to do on your last two weeks postings and look very much forward to it. How much fun it appears that you two are having!

Until I read your profile, I never knew that you were a charter boat captain in Fla.? What a combo - chartering a fishing boat and motorcycling. I too ride (a VL1500 Suzuki), but have never gone on such a lengthy excursion as you are on. Reading your trip postings gets me really thinking about it though and I'd do a longer trip if me arse wouldn't get so sore after about 120 miles or so. Maybe I'll look into a gel seat.

Anyway, I'm at work so I better get back at it (after I read up on your last two weeks!). Hope to see you in Michigan again sometime.

I think and pray for Hetty, always...and hope she looks on us all with a smile.

Love, Cousin Mike

[SilverBuffalo]

Welcome to the forum Mike I'm pleased and flattered that you are enjoying my trip report.
If you're thinking about doing some longer rides, you've come to the right place, there's a lot of good information here.
Stop by often, read and enjoy the comeraderie.

[Dick]

Hmmmmm - been darn near 8 dayz since the Silver Buffalo has checked in with a diary entry!! You guyz alright, Hans??

I don't mean to bug ya, butt it's like somebody tore out the pages of the book and we're missin' our fix!!! :D

Hope all is well, Hans. Ride safe.

[strsout]

Hans,
Thank you for the very well write report. I'm reading it in almost one shot, since I could not stop. Are you a professional writter? :)

[SilverBuffalo]

Hmmmmm - been darn near 8 dayz since the Silver Buffalo has checked in with a diary entry!! You guyz alright, Hans??

I don't mean to bug ya, butt it's like somebody tore out the pages of the book and we're missin' our fix!!! :D

Hope all is well, Hans. Ride safe.
Not so good right now Dick, and friends
hit an Elk north of Boise,
been in hospital for a week
wife's got a broken ankle
I got 4 broken ribs and a broken finger
Buffalo's banged up some.
Hope I killed the damn Elk

just checked in to a motel next to hospital
we got a lot of pain right now
I'll get the details out to ya when I'm able

This trip ain't over but it looks like there might be an intermission while we get things patched up.

without the gear it would a been a lot worse, I'm a believer.

[strsout]

hit an Elk north of Boise,
been in hospital for a week



So sorry to ear (read) that Hans.
I hope you can recovery soon and can continue to your trip.
That is one of our worst fears on backroads trip... God bless you.

[NOGILLS2]

Hans If there is something we can do for you let us know. I hate to hear about the strike. Hope your wife is doing well.

[gulfxray]

Hans, I'm so sorry to hear of the Elk strike. We're praying for you and your better half.

Like Floyd said, if you need something, let the family know ok?

[SilverBuffalo]

Hans, I'm so sorry to hear of the Elk strike. We're praying for you and your better half.

Like Floyd said, if you need something, let the family know ok?

Thanks guys
What i really need most right now is a bowel movement, damn pain medicine's got me plugged solid.
Not that any of you all could help me with that, nor would i want you to.
Just so you know I haven't lost my sense of humor.

[NOGILLS2]

Rotflmao!!!!!!

[SilverBuffalo]

Kennewick Washington 5/15 Monday Day # 33
We are greeted by warm sunshine and 78 degree temperatures at 8 am on this beautiful monday morning, in less than an hour we've packed, fueled up, and shipped some more things we've aquired home at the UPS store. We're getting really good at this I say to my favorite traveling companion. We head East on 12 some more because it has been such a nice road, more agricultural, miles and miles of grape vines and acres of what I think are onions and potatoes which is likely as we're getting closer to Idaho. Shortly after noon we roll through Clarkston where I see a BMW motorcycle shop, alas they're closed on Monday. I've been watching my rear tire for the last few days it seems to be going away faster than I expected.
A little ways down the road we find a city park and have a picnic under the pavilion, I put the bike on the center stand and spin the rear wheel around, this is not good, my rear tire is actually worn unevenly (thinner on one part of the circumference than the other) I can't let this go, I start calling BMW dealers In the anonymous book. Big Twin BMW in Boise has the right tire in stock and I make an appointment for 9 am tomorrow, although I had not really planned on going that direction, this is a priority. Just outside of Lewiston we turn south on 95, it's now 2.30 pm and we have 267 miles to go, no big deal for the ultimate touring bike, unless of course the flagman of the construction crew shuts down the road, there's semi-trucks and motorhomes lined up for a half a mile and I'm at the very end of it all, finally we start to move, after a few miles of creeping along at 40 mph we start uphill, the trucks and motorhomes get into the right lane and I pass most of them on the uphill climb, there's always one and this guy in his little Concord doesn't want to let me by, I kick it down a gear and pass him on the right, he gives it one last shot and as I pass him at warp 4 a cloud of smoke comes out of his tailpipe along with the loud ticking of an overstressed spark-knocking motor. The LT isn't even straining. When we top the hill we can see a valley stretched out before us for ever, I'll bet you can see a hundred miles in every directions I tell my wife, snowcapped mountains all around. I set the cruise control and start taking pictures over the windshield, something my wife doesn't really like, when there are thousand foot drops just a lane over, I take a shot and slip the camera back in the tankbag and so on. We're going downhill now, I swoop through the 60 mph curves gracefully, it seems to be getting warmer, I start to watch the thermometer and can actually see it climbing, it went from 80 to 90 in the last ten miles. There's a car coming up fast in my mirror, real fast, it's the moron in the Concord, I move to the shoulder doing 60+, he must be roadraging as he's got to be getting close to triple digits, I hear his tires screaming as he disappears around the bend. I think about some of the stupid things I've done when I got pissed of and hope he don't hurt himself or somebody else.
I think of it as the "Werewolf syndrome" I don't know why it happens, but some who may otherwise be normal, nice people when they get behind the wheel, with the right, or wrong set of circumstances and it's like the moon gets full and they become this raging monster, and just as quickly it passes. Then again he might be a bonifide, certified @sshole all the time.
Damn it's getting hot (93)I tell my wife, thats probably why they call this Hell's canyon she replies, by now the road has leveled out, a raging and I do mean raging river on our right and mountains on both sides, this is really pretty I say as I snap a few more pictures. We've been next to this river runnin 55-65 for at least an hour and it's still getting hotter (98) we talk about how just 3-4 days ago we were in Washington riding in 43 degree drizzle, do you realize that's a 55 degree difference in temperature I tell her, she knows, can we just do something normal for a change she says to me with an obvious tone of displeasure in her voice. We stop at the rest area, the poncho-liner (blanket) comes out of the saddlebag, I pull my boots of and take a siesta. We wake up around five o'clock and still have to do some miles before we get to Boise, a quick look at the map shows a choice between 95 and some interstate or 55 and some altitude, I pick the scenic route, as usual its the right choice, at least for a while. Its a real pretty road until it gets close to dusk, I slow down some because this is when the critters come out but that's not the real issue, running next to the river there are so may bugs it sounds like rain hitting my windshield, I do not like looking through my shield but I have to these pesky little bugs are in my helmet, up my sleeves down my collar,everywhere, it's like a biblical plague, my face, body and bike are covered with bugs.
Finally we pull into Horse Shoe Bend and away from the river and the bugs, its dark but Boise is only 20-some miles away. I program Big Twin BMW into my BMW Motorcycle Navigator and follow the talking "Frau" into Boise and down a dead end street. Technology can only get you so far and the brain has to take over.
With a little re-routing I find the bikeshop and a motel a couple of exits down I-84.
443 miles

[SilverBuffalo]

more pictures from Monday

[SilverBuffalo]

Boise Idaho 5/16 Tuesday Day # 34
Neither on of us slept real good last night, when we checked in at 10.30pm we had a choice between a 3rd floor non-smoking or a ground floor smoking room, since I had a Harley stolen back in 1975 I only stay where my bike is parked right outside the door, our room stinks and I left the window open all night facing the interstate, we're tired.
I turn into Big Twin BMW at 9 am sharp, unhook the trailer and strike up a conversation with a local (RTP) motorcycle cop. The crew at Big Twin is friendly, courteous and proffesional and by 10.30 the Buffalo has a new rear tire.
This is going to be an easy day I tell my wife as we pull out of the parking lot and back-track to the Cracker Barrel.
An hour later we both feel better and head north out of Boise on 21, one of the first things that catches our attention is the overflow from the dam, that water is coming outta there with a tremendous force, wow. Boise is another one of those "well kept secrets" this is a very pleasant and pretty place. we start climbing up 21, the Sawtooth mountains, appropriately named lots of peaks and valley's, one after another, we call them whoopdedoo's back home, like a rollercoaster only more fun. we climb a lot higher than I thought we were going to and before long there's snow on the sides of the road, the amazing thing is that the air temperature is around 85 degrees. We stop on the summit to throw snowballs and take pictures of each other by the snow in true tourist fashion, 85 and snow hey, now that's my kindof winter.
The bike is handling real good, the tire is now inflated to 50psi and everytime I stop I check the temperature, it's not heating up like it was when we left Florida, not only that but the annoying tire noise I've been hearing for thousands of miles is gone as is the sound of the brake pads dragging, I'm wondering more and more if I had a bad out of round tire. I've always run Metzlers but this one wore out in only 8500 miles, I'm sure pulling a trailer has something to do with it and wearing out a tire in a month is my personal best ever but usually I get 13-14 thousand out of them.
I'm not sure what to think and decide to give it a couple of hundred miles before I form an opinion.

[SilverBuffalo]

Why did the...Elk... cross the road?

If that's all he wanted to do we might have had a chance, but that's not what happened.
I've been over it and over it in my mind, trying to figure out just what happened, we weren't going very fast all day, earlier in our trip my wife made it very clear that she is not comfortable with heights, so I promised her I would not play Johnny roadracer in the mountains, to tell the truth I enjoyed going slower much more myself, you just get to see more.
Our speed was 35-45, we were just topping a little rise when the female Elk cow appeared right there in the middle of the road less than 10' in front of the bike, I barely had time to react and swerve slightly to the right, instead of trying to run away it's like the damn thing ran right at my bike. When we collided I felt the front of the bike come up in the air then get slammed down hard on its right side. for a fraction of a second, out of the corner of my eye I saw the Elks feet up in the air, then I just remember rolling like a log. My wife was screaming and crying and somehow I crawled over to where she was lying in the road. My right arm wouldn't work, with my left I grabbed the back/neck of her First Gear Mesh Tec jacket and started pulling her to the side of the road, she was crying and screaming at me, don't touch me, don't move me, my leg, my leg. I just knew I had to pull her out of the road before a car came over the rise. Somehow I pulled us to the shoulder then collapsed next to her like a pile of rubble on the side of the road, I knew we were both hurt bad.
It was probably only a minute but it seemed like an eternity before a car came from the other direction, I raised a bloody hand up in the air. It was the lowest moment of my life.
Within minutes more cars stopped and a paramedic fire fighter from (I think) Oregon named Fred arrived on scene, he took charge of the situation. (who-ever or where-ever you are Fred Thank you)
Everybody was telling me to stay down, stay down, well they just don't know me very well, it can't be done, if I die in bed it will be reaching for my boots. Take care of my wife, I said, I'm alright, she's more important. I managed to get to a sitting position, pulled of my jacket and folded it for a pillow for her head. I asked a couple of young guys to help me to my feet. By now we've determined that my wife probably has a broken ankle. More paramedics arrive and surround me, take care of her first I tell them.
I ask the younger guys there to stand the Buffalo up on her feet and roll her out of the ditch to level ground, she looks rough. There's a house within sight of our crash and Marla assures me she'll look after my bike and trailer, I ask her to pull out the anonymous book and call Big Twin BMW, she returns a few minutes later to tell me the arrangements have been made. My wife has been immobilized and strapped to a backboard so now its time for all the paramedics to gang up on me.
I tell them I've got some broken ribs and maybe a broken collar bone, I broke some ribs in a Judo tournament in Detroit 30-some years ago and I know exactly what it feels like, and yes I lost the match but I stayed in for the full three minutes until it was over, that alone says a lot about who I am, I just don't quit....... ever.
The first thing they try to do is put one of those stupid neck things on me, I let them know in no uncertain terms that its going to take more than the 3-4 they've got to get that on my neck, I'm in pain and not very friendly, get away from me, they do, except for Fred, he squares off with me, there's not many guys that will do that, Fred you've got class and guts. He looks me square in the eyes and talks me down, ok I'll get in the ambulance if I can sit up.
The 85 mile ride down the mountain is one of the longest most painful and agonizing experiences of my life, with every curve, twist, bump and wiggle it felt like someone was turning a knife in my back and my chest simultaneously.
If you ever find yourself in such a situation, ask for the helicopter, I didn't know we had that option until we got to the emergency room.

[MOSLEYDS]

Hans,
How are you guys doing?

[SilverBuffalo]

Hans,
How are you guys doing?
Thanks for asking Don.
We are doing well and look pretty good considering what we've been through, we are home and moving around although very slowly.
We have both quit taking the pain meds as they make us feel worse than the actual pain.
We are thankfull to be alive, more in love with each other than ever before and impatient to heal and get active again.
I look at bikes on the internet everyday even though I know it's going to be several or more months before I'll be able to take one of the centerstand.
That has not affected my enthusiasm for riding and the K1200LT.

[Zotter]

Good to know you're 'n yours are home and healing well :thumb: I "found" this thread just this past Saturday, was enjoying the read from it's start to the unplaned entry of local wildlife. Gut wrenching from here - can only imagine for you.

I assume the Silver Buff was totaled? Hows the trailer? Save the Farkles?

Look forward to your continued stories! :cool: :cool:

[rikkitik]

Hans,

Glad to see you are home and recuperating! Get well and I wouldn't be surprised to meet you on the road again somewhere in the near future.

I'm home for another week and then off for 2 weeks to the Honda Hoot and some great Smokey Mountain riding and then to the beach somewhere to soak up some sun. No trailer this trip - just some spirited riding. Giving some serious thought to a Sturgis run in August.

Rick Bailey
Duncanville, AL

[nearmisses]

Hans,
I woke up this morning at 4:16am couldn't sleep! Needed to read to get sleepy again. Road Tales fix! You only live about 140 miles from me and I started reading your posts. I read it all straight thru till the end, including the Elk and beyond. I lived in Idaho for 15+ years before coming back to Florida in 93. My girlfriend and I got my 05 LT to go out on but she opted for a plane trip thinking we couldn't do it in the time alloted her so.. we didn't get to go on the LT. A choice now I am sure she will always regrete.
I've been to alot of the places you mentioned and you kept bringing it all back how beautiful it is out there, and cold! I was so... upset to read the post where you and your wife were hurt. It sounded to that point in time to be the Trip of a Lifetime! And in fact probably was despite the injuries. I know the pain of the road, done so more than a few times. I hope you and your wife heal up real soon and continue the trip. You were just getting to about where I was from when things sorta stopped! Sandpoint, Idaho. My best regards to you and yours for a speedy recovery. It's 7:49 am and the coffee's done. Thanks for the adventure. God bless and take care.
Brian Brodhead

[Colyn]

Well Hans ... what a trip ... I loved every minute of reading it. Some stunning photographs and man you have seen some good roads. Thank you for sharing and regards to your wife. She sounds a super girl and I especially love your reference to the "bitch switch". :)

Now maybe it will be good to tell us here how the bike story ended.

Thanks again.

[SilverBuffalo]

Now maybe it will be good to tell us here how the bike story ended.
Thanks for reminding me Colyn,
I did promise that this trip would be continued after the "intermission" :)

The short version is:

We bought another LT and rode on happily ever after.

But by now you've probably figured out I don't know how to tell a "short story" :)




After a couple of months of recuperation and sleeping in a recliner (busted ribs are no fun)

I found another LT advertised right here on this forum,

I didn't think I was quite ready yet but this was too nice of a bike trailer package to let it “get away”

Arrangement were made and a week later I flew into Denver where Randy picked me up at the airport,

my wife decided to wait home and a day or so later I figured out once again that she is just a little smarter than I am (more on that later)

Randy turned out to be another example of why the BMW community is such a warm and friendly place full of helpful people of unquestionable integrity.

It just happened to be the weekend of the Top of the Rockies rally, I had entertained the thought of going by there and then Randy offered to give me his wifes prepaid rally pass, it took less than a millisecond to decide that instead of heading straight home I would spend couple of days in the Colorado mountains riding a “new to me” LT.

The very first thing that impressed me where the Ohlin shocks,
I had never had a bike with those before and man did this LT ever handle nice.

I'll hafta admit I was still a little uncomfortable in “the saddle” and downright scared when I saw some Big horned sheep standing on the side of the road.

I cruised through a little town looking for a sporting goods store with a plan to pick up a cheap tent and sleeping bag to attend the rally with (I figured it was about the same $$$ as one night in a motel.)

When I saw another LT in a gas station,
of course I had to stop and say hello to Jeff and his wife from Fargo North Dakota,
she was carrying a bag that contained their “miniature Pincher” the dog that has ridden over a hundred thousand miles on an LT,
if y'all wanna see some good pictures check out Jeffs website. http://myweb.cableone.net/jsrye/ (http://myweb.cableone.net/jsrye/)

With the Ohlin shocks the LT sat a little higher than my previous bike and when I had stopped on a bit of an incline a little further up the road she was leaned over quite a bit,
I straddled the bike and “heaved” her up right when I felt something “pop” in my ribcage a reminder that it had only been a couple of months since my accident,
I was done for the day, checked into the next motel,
took some pain meds and called the wife to tell her she was right (again).

Next day I rode up to the top of the Rockies rally (slowly) hung around a couple of hours and headed down the road, I hate to sound like a wimp but I knew that I wouldn't be able to sleep on the ground for some time to come.

I headed south trying to stay in the mountains as long as I could then headed East,

when you get out of the mountains in Colorado you're completely out of them,
the eastern part of the state is flat straight and hot, the trip from there on was pretty uneventful,
I was in enough pain to just “want to get home” it was the middle of July and the rest of it was mostly just a matter of dealing with the heat going through Oklahoma then Texas (it was 106 going through Dallas)

By the second day I figured out that if I left the motel at 4 am I would only have to ride in the dark 1 ½ to 2 hours and by 2-3 pm had done enough miles to “deserve” an air conditioned motel room.

I did take a little side trip through Biloxi and was asthonished by the hurricane damage still obvious a year later.

The next several summer months my wife and I took day rides together leaving early and getting home by noon to beat the heat, by now the lingering after effects of the accident were minimal and we started to plan our next “great adventure”

[Colyn]

Thank you for the update.

PS ... Sent you a PM.