View Full Version : 1/2 Way Through Jpeg XL Install/Stuck
fuel007one
Feb 25th, 2006, 6:37 pm
Bot some from Raffy and arrived quickly, in good condition, and very coureously handled. Thanks Raffy.
I am trying to install the first (left) one and find the instructions more or less worthless. Yes can remove the fairing, crash bar, etc but now that I am into the drilling and so-called "fitting" mode I find the instructions more confusing than helpful.
Does anyone have a photo of an installation since I cannot seem to find anything on his site except items to purchase (cannot seem to navigate anywhere else)?
I cannot figure out if the idea is to cut the holes wide enough so that the final goal is to get the shoulders of the bolts FLUSH to the metal on the new crash bar.
Having not seen the finished product adequately I cannot either figure out what the purpose is for the bolt in the front to be so long.
I need some photo's badly if anyone has any.
Thanks
jorawro
Feb 25th, 2006, 7:48 pm
Hopefully these photo's will help.
jorawro
Feb 25th, 2006, 7:53 pm
The only cutting involved is the circular holes in the black crashbar covers (photo 4). The front bolts are long in order to catch the shoulder of the peg in the forward position.
BTW - don't forget the ball bearing and spring. They act as detents.
fuel007one
Feb 26th, 2006, 10:09 am
Thanks a bunch and those helped tremendously.
On the bearing assembly/packing/spring:
The "getting this part wrong could permanently damage the mounting bracket" park scares the heck out of me......
Once the bearing is place on the spring is there any particular position/angle the J-Peg needs to be in as I screw it into the bracket (with locktight on it....) to make sure that the bearing seats correctly or is it just make sure the shoulder of the JPeg is flush to the mount when it gets screwed in (at ANY angle).
All help/advise is appreciated...
RaffyK
Feb 26th, 2006, 10:19 am
I always start the peg bolt first with a few turns. then put the stop bolt with a few turns. This will hold the peg from travelling too far in either direction. Line up the ball with the detent hole/spring and then lift the peg up to the mounting block and start tightening the peg bolt. Then tighten the stop bolt. When opening and closing the peg, you should feel the ball go from one stop to the other without dragging.
I usually install the peg in the open position. But either will work.
fuel007one
Feb 26th, 2006, 10:34 am
Thanks Raffy, so the idea is to position the angle of the Peg in full open position, and then tighten it up or SLIGHTLY LESS than full open position to insure the bearing goes into a flat portion of the shoulder and not an indent?
I just want to get it totally right and not screw it up (plus with this weather I am DYING) to get them on and ride with them on.
fuel007one
Feb 26th, 2006, 10:37 am
And the other thing I can't figure out is how in the world does the bearing stay on top of the spring with nothing below it due to gravity alone? Does one use the grease to "stick" it to the spring before screwing the Peg in????
RaffyK
Feb 26th, 2006, 10:45 am
Grease the ball and place it under the spring hole. The grease will hold it in place.
RaffyK
Feb 26th, 2006, 10:50 am
the ball has to go in the detent hole when the peg is opened or closed. It travels on the flat surface. DO NOT tighten the peg up with the ball on the flat surface.
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