Fuzeblock vs. Centech AP-2 for RT

[Atomicman]

I'm looking for comments and comparison of the Fuzeblock vs. Centech AP-2 for an '09 RT.

Comments, comparison, opinions?

[keith1]

I have a Centech fuse block and I like it quite a bit. I mounted it on the left side of the battery with industrial velcro so if it has be moved you just pull it free and move it.

[Semio]

Fuzeblock FAQ: http://fuzeblocks.com/index.php?pid=5

I have the AP-2 with relay/wiring harness kit, but haven't wired it yet.

The Centech AP-2 relay harness is a separate SAE relay socket, so the relay can be replaced quickly on the fly if it goes bad (WalMart, AutoZone, etc). The Fuzeblock's relay is soldered to the main board. Fuzeblock says you need to unsolder it from the board in order to replace it. Do you have a soldering iron and solder sucker? You have to find another location to mount the AP-2 separate relay. Both units are blocks about 1/2- 2/3 the size of a deck of cards.

The AP-2 uses standard SAE blade fuses. These are widely available. The Fuzeblock appears to use SAE MINI blade fuses. Still widely available, just not quite as much.

With the relay harness the AP-2 is more expensive than the Fuzeblock. but it can handle both switched and unswitched banks of circuits. It appears that the Fuzeblock can only handle switched circuits.

Both are only weather resistant. You need to mount them away from direct splashes or water.

[Atomicman]

Fuzeblock FAQ: http://fuzeblocks.com/index.php?pid=5

I have the AP-2 with relay/wiring harness kit, but haven't wired it yet.

The Centech AP-2 relay harness is a separate SAE relay socket, so the relay can be replaced quickly on the fly if it goes bad (WalMart, AutoZone, etc). The Fuzeblock's relay is soldered to the main board. Fuzeblock says you need to unsolder it from the board in order to replace it. Do you have a soldering iron and solder sucker? You have to find another location to mount the AP-2 separate relay. Both units are blocks about 1/2- 2/3 the size of a deck of cards.

The AP-2 uses standard SAE blade fuses. These are widely available. The Fuzeblock appears to use SAE MINI blade fuses. Still widely available, just not quite as much.

With the relay harness the AP-2 is more expensive than the Fuzeblock. but it can handle both switched and unswitched banks of circuits. It appears that the Fuzeblock can only handle switched circuits.

Both are only weather resistant. You need to mount them away from direct splashes or water.

I believe the the one advantage of the Fuzeblock is that all circuits can be either switched or unswitched individually. By doing so the relay will gate power from the battery through the relay and to the devices you select to have switched power on the FZ-1.

I was leaning towards the AP-2.AP-2 has some (5 switched)and 3 unswitched connectiions which are set in stone But I believe the AP-2 can handle upt o 60 AMPS and the Fuzeblock is limited to 30A if I am reading the info correctly!

How Much Current Can the FZ-1 Handle?

This isn't as straight forward as you might think.

The FZ-1 has two separate current paths. One is for constant power and the other goes through the relay for switched power. Each circuit can handle up to 10A (120W). The total amperage used via the relay (switched power) should not exceed 30A (360W). The total amperage on the constant side should not exceed 30A (360W). The total amperage for the entire FZ-1 should not exceed 30A (360W).

From Centech:
The AP-2 fuse panel is identical to the AP-1 panel with the exception that the AP-2 is divided into two electrical sections. The main section contains three fuses and feeds five outputs while the second section has two fuses and three outputs. The advantage of having two sections allows the enthusiast to have fused power available for devices which need constant battery power and those which need to be switched “OFF” with the ignition key. The AP-2 can handle a maximum of 60 amperes divided into a 40 ampere and 20 ampere section. The built-in GROUND section handles a maximum of 60 amperes. The AP-2 can be connected directly to the battery or to your ignition switch. For those with the CAN BUS system, the AP-130R wiring kit provides a relay and wiring.

[XTrooper]

I think you've got it right, Atomicman. I chose the Fuzeblock because I like the flexibility of the circuits (constant or switched with a simple repositioning of the fuse). The 30A limit of the Fuzeblock wasn't a concern to me because everything I have wired to the bike draws very little amperage except for the Battery Tender connector which I have wired directly to the battery.

Regarding fuses, anyone that carries SAE fuses will carry SAE minis as well, e.g., Wal-Mart, all name-brand auto parts store, etc. It's true the relay is soldered to the circuit board of the Fuzeblock and this is one of the reasons I chose it. It makes for a very neat and compact installation. Sure, it would be a little more work to replace, but when's the last time you had a relay go bad? In my long experience in using them, they're pretty much trouble-free as long as they are properly fused.

In the long run, I don't think it matters which you choose between these two or, for that matter, any of the other fuse blocks available. They all get the job done. ;)

[Atomicman]

Thanks, XT!

[crazykz]

If the relay on the fuzeblock does give out on the road switching the fuses to the constant side is a way to get home until the relay can be replaced.

Curt

[XTrooper]

If the relay on the fuzeblock does give out on the road switching the fuses to the constant side is a way to get home until the relay can be replaced.

Curt

Excellent point, Curt, and one I hadn't thought of. Thanks for the tip!

[GVPurvis]

I have the CenTech and for me,it works great.Only problem is now I have to find something else to hook up. :) More Farkles :histerica .This is getting to be almost as much trouble as putting Chrome on a Harley.

[BrianV]

I have the Fuzeblock because I like the smaller size and the cover. I did some re-crafting and mounted the base piece to the frame near the left side above the rear shock with some 3M "loop lock" tape. I used a couple of 6-32 standoffs on the board, and now the board now screws down to the base and the cover comes off with 4 6-32 screws as well. I belive it would take a lot more than spray to get into the circuitry.

All circuits on the Fuzeblock can be either switched or unswitched based on the placement of the fuse. I can carry a lot of mini buss fuses in not much space, and yes, I can also resolder the relay when I get home if it goes out. I LIKE soldered relays. After spending a lot of years working on equipment with relays, and I learned that good installations had one of two things - soldered relays or ones with wire snap-downs on them.

My battery tender is wired directly to the battery.

I will shoot some pix later and post them.

Just my .02

-Brian

[jsb]

I will shoot some pix later and post them.

Please do post pics. I bought one of the Fuzeblocks in the group buy and I want to install it, but am an electrical semi-idiot. I'd love to see how you mounted it and modified it.

[racer7]

I prefer the Fuzeblock to others for a different reason though I agree with what has been said.

The Fuzeblock has 2 methods of diode protection on the boad that keep "back voltages" that can develop when an unprotected relay is switched from feeding back into the bike stock wiring and computers. I do not know whether BMW has engineered adequate protection into its various computers, power supplies, etc so proper protection is important.
Very high voltages are potentially possible and are just like any other type of surge that can take out unprotected solid state devices.

The 2 methods are
1) A diode that prevent back voltages to the trigger wire.
2) A diode across the relay itself, making it a protected type.

The std Centech relays are not protected, apparently. I haven't looked to see if a protected type of the same rating and pin configuration is easily purchased but I suspect a suitable one can be found.

Also, a diode (1500 PIV, 1.5 A rating, less than $1 - go to Radio Shack) can be easily wired into the trigger wire of any Centech setup to provide some protection against reverse voltages.

The configurabilty and protection of the Fuzeblock make it a more sophisticated product.
And its current ratings are adequate for anything one might reasonably do an an RT, IMO.

Having said the above, my own RT uses an Eastern Beaver box that is very well made, has 2 unswitched and 6 switched connections, each individually fused. It is not diode protected on the board but I have externally done what is on the Fuzeblock board.

The reason I have the EB box is that it was a direct replacement for a Centech AP-1 that was dealer installed and had only switched outlets. When I needed unswitched outlets, I had to change the box and retained the Centech relay while getting rid of the Centech AP-1.

My bike runs an unswitched outlet for heated gear (to stay away fom the bikes ZFE limitations), an aftermarket alarm system with proximity sensor, a Valentine-1, Hyperlites, and Trail Tech HIDs on a PIAA harness whose relay trigger is connected to the EB panel.
The alarm, EB box and Centech relay all fit on the rear fender under my back seat. Fits under both stock and Sargent rear seats.

There are various ways to take a relay trigger wire from the bike's wiring. Dealer tapped the rear outlet circuit that is connected to the bike ZFE. This creates a delay of more than 30 seconds when the bike is shut off before the switched relay also shuts off- the ZFE has some sort of shutdown logic and it can go to 20 minutes if you've recently rewired something for reasons no one has been able to coherently explain to me. Anyway, I don't like walking away from a bike with stuff still switched on or waiting for it to turn off. Never liked that connection.

A ZFE-connected trigger wire also means any ZFE problem affects all the stuff wired to the switched part of the fuse box as I learned when trying to use two Gerbings jackets in the 2 BMW-provided outlets. The ZFE has a 10 A limit and it shuts off the trigger wire and therefore all switched parts of a fuse box connected to it if you oonect 2 Gerbings jackets. So I added an unswitched rear outlet to the bike on the side opposite the stock rear AND moved my trigger wire to connect to the coil of the RT starter relay. That relay is hidden inside the little box holding the diagnostic connector, is easily accessed and goes on and off immediately with the ignition switch. The connection made there is well protected from weather.

My preferred version for a relay fuse box would be a Fuzeblock with its trigger wire taken from the starter relay or other "ignition switch controlled" (NOT ZFE controlled) circuit.
And I'd put it under the back seat for ease of access and future additions rather than in the fromt of the bike, though that is also possible.

[MattKas]

+1 for FuzeBlock
I prefer the Fuzeblock to others for a different reason though I agree with what has been said.

The Fuzeblock has 2 methods of diode protection on the boad that keep "back voltages" that can develop when an unprotected relay is switched from feeding back into the bike stock wiring and computers. I do not know whether BMW has engineered adequate protection into its various computers, power supplies, etc so proper protection is important.
Very high voltages are potentially possible and are just like any other type of surge that can take out unprotected solid state devices.

The 2 methods are
1) A diode that prevent back voltages to the trigger wire.
2) A diode across the relay itself, making it a protected type.

The std Centech relays are not protected, apparently. I haven't looked to see if a protected type of the same rating and pin configuration is easily purchased but I suspect a suitable one can be found.

Also, a diode (1500 PIV, 1.5 A rating, less than $1 - go to Radio Shack) can be easily wired into the trigger wire of any Centech setup to provide some protection against reverse voltages.

The configurabilty and protection of the Fuzeblock make it a more sophisticated product.
And its current ratings are adequate for anything one might reasonably do an an RT, IMO.

Having said the above, my own RT uses an Eastern Beaver box that is very well made, has 2 unswitched and 6 switched connections, each individually fused. It is not diode protected on the board but I have externally done what is on the Fuzeblock board.

The reason I have the EB box is that it was a direct replacement for a Centech AP-1 that was dealer installed and had only switched outlets. When I needed unswitched outlets, I had to change the box and retained the Centech relay while getting rid of the Centech AP-1.

My bike runs an unswitched outlet for heated gear (to stay away fom the bikes ZFE limitations), an aftermarket alarm system with proximity sensor, a Valentine-1, Hyperlites, and Trail Tech HIDs on a PIAA harness whose relay trigger is connected to the EB panel.
The alarm, EB box and Centech relay all fit on the rear fender under my back seat. Fits under both stock and Sargent rear seats.

There are various ways to take a relay trigger wire from the bike's wiring. Dealer tapped the rear outlet circuit that is connected to the bike ZFE. This creates a delay of more than 30 seconds when the bike is shut off before the switched relay also shuts off- the ZFE has some sort of shutdown logic and it can go to 20 minutes if you've recently rewired something for reasons no one has been able to coherently explain to me. Anyway, I don't like walking away from a bike with stuff still switched on or waiting for it to turn off. Never liked that connection.

A ZFE-connected trigger wire also means any ZFE problem affects all the stuff wired to the switched part of the fuse box as I learned when trying to use two Gerbings jackets in the 2 BMW-provided outlets. The ZFE has a 10 A limit and it shuts off the trigger wire and therefore all switched parts of a fuse box connected to it if you oonect 2 Gerbings jackets. So I added an unswitched rear outlet to the bike on the side opposite the stock rear AND moved my trigger wire to connect to the coil of the RT starter relay. That relay is hidden inside the little box holding the diagnostic connector, is easily accessed and goes on and off immediately with the ignition switch. The connection made there is well protected from weather.

My preferred version for a relay fuse box would be a Fuzeblock with its trigger wire taken from the starter relay or other "ignition switch controlled" (NOT ZFE controlled) circuit.
And I'd put it under the back seat for ease of access and future additions rather than in the fromt of the bike, though that is also possible.

[digger47]

I would love to see some PHOTOS of how you guys have mounted the fuzeblock to your K1200LT's. I am thinking about putting one of these on mine and would like to see how others have done it. . . . Bohn

PS Anyone near KC that have done this?