How much is a rear drive worth?

[surfran]

How much is a used rear drive from a 2005 worth? Also will it fit my 2000 without any issues? Just thinking of insurance in case a drive went.

Heres a picture.

[JPSpen]

400.00 is the going rate for a used drive...Unfortunately it won't work on your 2000.

John

[meese]

Won't work, sorry. It should bolt into place, but they changed the wheel rotation sensors between the original brakes ('99-'01) and the Integral ABS ('02-'06). Note these year designations are for the US, everyone else got the upgraded Integral brakes in '01. If you brake calipers say Brembo, you have the older brakes. If the calipers say BMW, then you have the Integral brakes.

Maybe you could rip out the internal guts and put those in your old housing, but at that point you're better off just getting new bearings.

[surfran]

Darn that's not what I wanted to hear. I just bought the thing! I guess I'll be having it for sale soon then :(

Should have asked first I guess. It never dawned on me that it wouldn't work until just a little while ago.

[bemmerbiker]

When I replaced my rear on a 2000 LTC, new ran a little over $800.
Dealer worked BMW to cover it. At first they did not want to, even though I had about 6mo left under warranty.
Problem was dealer would not make a direct refund in cash, had to take it in goods and/or service.
But, that was better than nothing.

[BecketMa]

Unfortunately, with more people riding as the wx getts better, more people will have rear end failures.

[pdrstraw]

I just bought an '05 rear differential with only 4k miles on it on Ebay delivered for $300. That one was for a friend with an '03. I recently bought a spare drive for my '01 from a local club member for $275. In both cases, the rear drives came from bikes that had been converted to trikes.

Watch ebay for awhile. Hannigan often lists drives for sale with a starting price of about $225.

If you have a pre '02 LT, it does take a different drive...so be careful which one you're ordering. I'm having my spare drive rebuilt with a 17-ball bearing...then I'll have the one on my LT rebuilt as well. Hey....it's the major "issue" reported on the LT's (I've already had one fail), so I'll do what I can to make my '01 a keeper!

Regards,

Paul

[messenger13]

How much is a used rear drive from a 2005 worth?If you happen to see an LT on the side of the road, with fluid dripping outta it's rearend...I'm guessing you can pretty much name your price! ;)

[surfran]

Thanks Joe! I'm feeling better already. All I need to do now is keep my eyes peeled and my rear trunk filled with the drive unit.

Now if I also have the tools.... :D

Could you just change the brake stuff? Afterall it's just the internals that are the issue isn't it?

You can tell I am not an old pro at this can't ya :rolleyes:

[meese]

I'll say it again: actually carrying an entire rear drive unit with you is the ultimate in paranoia. Just know that this is a weak spot for the earlier LTs, periodically check the rear drive for oil leaks or roughness when spinning the wheel, maybe even go so far as to keep a spare drive at home all boxed up and ready to ship, just in case. Heck, you can even pre-emptively change out the main rear bearing in the comfort of you own garage or local dealership if you want.

But actually carrying the entire unit on the bike just seems foolish. While it's not particularly difficult to swap out if you have the proper tools and experience, it isn't a side of the road job by any means. So you'd still have to get the bike to some sort of a garage or repair center, and you'd probably also have to carry several special tools with you as well. There are probably really only a handful of people on this site who could do a proper rear drive swap, given all the necessary tools and a decent place to work.

Much better to have a decent towing service, be it through AMA, AAA with RV, or your insurance company, preferably with trip interruption coverage as well. If you do happen to be one of the unlucky 4-5%, in the worst case you'd lose a couple of days and a few hundred dollars getting the bike towed to somewhere it could get sorted out.

And remember, this comes from someone who's lost two rear drives on two different LTs, one several hundred miles from home, and one in a country that didn't speak english. We weren't happy about either one, but we just sorted it out and got back on the road.

Just Ride It.

[messenger13]

...periodically check the rear drive for oil leaks or roughness when spinning the wheelWhile you're checking for bubbles on the side of your Bridgestones, right Ken?! http://www.r1-forum.com/gallery/images/wink.gif



...and one in a country that didn't speak english.CALIFORNIA?!?!?!?! :D

[surfran]

Meese,

I had no intention of having it with me on any rides I was just joking back with Joe.

I bought if figuring it was a good deal so I might as well change it out as the newer ones have the updated bearings. I figured I would keep my existing one in the garage in case I ever needed it.

Like I said earlier, I never gave it a thought that it wouldn't work until after I had bought the thing.........lesson learned ALWAYS check here first!!!

Can you answer my question about whether the brake components and speed sensors can just be swapped?

Thanks for taking the time to help me out, I have a lot to learn.

Randy

[meese]

Nothing personal Randy, though I do know a couple of guys who do carry spare drear drives on their bikes. It just never made sense to me.

I don't think the wheel rotation sensors can be swapped out, as there is an extra hole drilled into the older drives that won't be there on the newer ones. I'd say if you are worried about it, then get the bearing changed in your existing drive to a newer 17-ball unit, then just ride the bike.

I don't think I'd bother swapping all the internals from one housing to the next, as then you'd need to be able to measure things much more closely to set the correct preload using the shims, plus you'd effectively make the newer drive worthless. Better to just the parts you need.

In the mean time, I'm sure you can sell the newer drive on to someone else. Heck, If I was closer, I'd come over and help you swap the bearing out myself.

[CharlieVT]

I'll say it again: actually carrying an entire rear drive unit with you is the ultimate in paranoia.

I do carry a replacement crown wheel bearing and seal. I keep saying I am going to change it out but haven't gotten to that yet.
You wouldn't want to try to DYI by the side of the road, but if you break down far from a BWM dealership a tow to any decent mechanic with parts in hand could get you back on the road a lot sooner.
The one caveat I would offer is that if the rear drive fails, don't try to limp it along. Evidence suggests that with the crown wheel bearing failed, riding any distance could result in damage to other components requiring more extensive repair.

However, as I have said before, just having a spare bearing and seal in a sidecase brings powerful karma which protects from the drive ever failing. ;)

[messenger13]

...just having a spare bearing and seal in a sidecase brings powerful karma which protects from the drive ever failing. ;)Or perhaps the wheel bearing gods would be upset for your lack or trust?! Maybe they are waiting for you to be in the most remote of location before that put the whammy on you!!! :eek:

[JPSpen]

OK, I'll chime in from the other side of the equation...

I just recently purchased a complete rear drive and wouldn't feel the least bit queasy about changing it on the side of the road...
As far as special tools go, All you'd need is the 12mm allen and a 30mm box end wrench.. The inner pivot bearing is set to some small torque value.. "more feel than torque". hold it with the allen and tighten up the lock nut with the box end wrench. And a little locktite..
The torque value on that bearing is very small and I dont' think the setting is that critical. Just snugging it up would get you to a place where you could get a dealer to torque it properly...I'll bet it wouldn't take an hour to change out the whole thing on the side of the road provided you had all the correct tools...I don't think that the phasing of the driveshaft would be too difficult either if you watched what you were doing when you took the old one off... I do plan to carry mine in the trailer to/from CCR.

I really hate to disagree with Ken because he is one of the more experienced ones on this board... But a "complete" drive should be fairly easy to change out in the field..

I know just carrying mine will probably mean the original will never fail...

John

[messenger13]

I really hate to disagree with Ken because he is one of the more experienced ones on this board...No...please do! It's the first sign of wellness. :D

[dshealey]

As far as special tools go, All you'd need is the 12mm allen and a 30mm box end wrench.. The inner pivot bearing is set to some small torque value.. "more feel than torque". hold it with the allen and tighten up the lock nut with the box end wrench. And a little locktite..

Do not use Loctite on these! It is not needed, and is not specified in the service manual. I have removed three of these now where the dealers had used Loctite on previous work. Loctite just makes the job harder, because you have to clean it out of the threads for re-assembly in order to be able to torque the inner stud to the correct LOW torque. With ANY Loctite left in the threads that torque is reached before you even get it screwed back in.
...I don't think that the phasing of the driveshaft would be too difficult either if you watched what you were doing when you took the old one off... I do plan to carry mine in the trailer to/from CCR.
Surprisingly, I don't think they are automatically phased properly from the factory, and very unlikely dealers do it properly when replacing a drive. I do it because I know it should be done though.
I really hate to disagree with Ken because he is one of the more experienced ones on this board... But a "complete" drive should be fairly easy to change out in the field..

I would do it if one was available and I had the tools, but as soon as I got back home I would check the studs for the proper torque.

John