Shocking

[retiredjj]

Finally pulled the trigger on some new shocks and currently am in the middle of the install. The front shock was a real problem till I searched the archives and found an entry by D Shealy. In short, keep the bottom gromet off the top of the shock and trim the rim of the a-frame hole about an eighth inch or more till the bottom of the shock fits in. I am bleeding a little from pushing the stock in to place and having it suddenly slip into the hole but I'll heal. Don't be afraid to take off the ball joint nut and pull it down. Easy easy. Just have a torch and some green locktite. And disconnect the brake calipers and brake lines so you don't stress the lines. You'll also need a floor jack for under the engine to get the front end up high enough to swing out of the way of the a-frame. A little daunting at first but with the right tools not all that bad. The rear shock is waiting till tomorrow morning but should be a breeze to install.
:dance:

[UltraLT]

What shocks did you install? Getting ready to pull trigger myself. That, or buy a new to me bike for trade in and cost of new shocks. Don't want more payments.

Ultra LT

[RonKMiller]

Ignore the "typical" instructions for removal of the rear shock. :wow:

Remove about ten of the right side tupperware fairing fasteners top and bottom starting from rear to front directly under the seat. You don't need to take it off. Jam several tennis balls between the plastic and frame so that it bows out and is held away. You want enough space to get your hand in there.

Remove battery. Remove upper and lower shock attachment bolts. Take off old shock, put in new one. Replace battery and fasteners. Do TPS reset.
It really is that easy. A 20 minute job. :corn:

[retiredjj]

What shocks did you install? Getting ready to pull trigger myself. That, or buy a new to me bike for trade in and cost of new shocks. Don't want more payments.

Ultra LT

I went with the Hyper Pro. Didn't get all the remote adjustment stuff as I usually ride alone. Once it's set for me then there won't be any fiddling anyway. There is some adjusting that can be done easily for dampening and hopefully that will be sufficient. $1200 with shipping.

[Tallyho]

Finally pulled the trigger on some new shocks and currently am in the middle of the install. The front shock was a real problem till I searched the archives and found an entry by D Shealy. In short, keep the bottom gromet off the top of the shock and trim the rim of the a-frame hole about an eighth inch or more till the bottom of the shock fits in. I am bleeding a little from pushing the stock in to place and having it suddenly slip into the hole but I'll heal. Don't be afraid to take off the ball joint nut and pull it down. Easy easy. Just have a torch and some green locktite. And disconnect the brake calipers and brake lines so you don't stress the lines. You'll also need a floor jack for under the engine to get the front end up high enough to swing out of the way of the a-frame. A little daunting at first but with the right tools not all that bad. The rear shock is waiting till tomorrow morning but should be a breeze to install.I done numerous front LT shock replacements and never had to do any cutting, trimming, or leave grommet parts off. Very interesting. :confused:

[LAF]

I done numerous front LT shock replacements and never had to do any cutting, trimming, or leave grommet parts off. Very interesting. :confused:

+1

Just did both mine( Hyper Pro) and the front dropped out into my hands, with the black spacer still on it.

Nothing as described here.

Take rear off, remove bolt on front lower, remove top bolt, jack the front of the bike up and it fell out into my waiting hand. Only other thing I removed was the front of the steering damper, and the brake hose clamp on the fork.

Just not a big deal after reading the threads here.

[yechave]

I did the Ohlins, and did not have to grind the frame or remove the large nut. It did take two hours to finally figure out there even was a rubber grommet on top that needed to come out first. And, I installed and removed the shock three times until I was satisfied it was done right. Don't ask why.....

It was yet "Another Learning Experience!"

The one I was not prepared for was the small screw on the left fork that holds the brake line in place. %*@#!

[AlaskaFish]

The trick to not having to grind anything up front lies in the rear! Removing the rear shock first, that is. Just like Lee says below.

It has also been mentioned on this site several times before that by removing the rear shock, and then changing out the front with the rear shock still off the Bike, you can get much more clearance. Then finish by installing the rear shock.

Of course if you are not changing out both shocks, then the problem remains.

John
+1

Just did both mine( Hyper Pro) and the front dropped out into my hands, with the black spacer still on it.

Nothing as described here.

Take rear off, remove bolt on front lower, remove top bolt, jack the front of the bike up and it fell out into my waiting hand. Only other thing I removed was the front of the steering damper, and the brake hose clamp on the fork.

Just not a big deal after reading the threads here.

[retiredjj]

Well, I read as many posts here on the forum as I could find. Some have had no problem installing the front shock and some have. I don't know why but perhaps there is a slight geometry difference in older vs newer LT's which is why some don't have to be trimmed to get the front shock in. In my case, a 99, I had the shocks set for 1/2 an inch taller and I suspect that may have led to my particular install issues. I followed the method outlined and refered to in previous posts of removing the rear shock first then the front and putting the front in first. Removed the calipers, unbolted the brake lines, took off the grommet, jacked up the bike so the front wheel would extend fully. Still had to trim. Anyway, apparently no two LT's are created exactly the same or more likely the difference in brand and setup of shock plays a major role. :dance:

[grifscoots]

The trick to not having to grind anything up front lies in the rear! Removing the rear shock first, that is. Just like Lee says below.

It has also been mentioned on this site several times before that by removing the rear shock, and then changing out the front with the rear shock still off the Bike, you can get much more clearance. Then finish by installing the rear shock.

Of course if you are not changing out both shocks, then the problem remains.

JohnJust take off the rear tire if not changing the rear shock.:D

[AlaskaFish]

Doh!

Yeah, what Grif said should give ya lots of clearance.

John
Just take off the rear tire if not changing the rear shock.:D