The Simplest Thing.....

[Hairpin]

I've had my '99 LT (Luther) torn down for a week doing everything from speedo mod to some ghetto mod wiring while waiting for my new Mityvac to arrive. Now it's here. Worked great extracting coolant from the expansion tank this morning as a first test. Next I want to replace the clutch fluid, then the brakes.

Of all the things I've taken apart, I am stumped on removing the left handlebar radio control. It is hanging by one bolt or screw, or something. I've scoured, the FAQs, Forums and fixes and can't find anyone as dumb as me. Can someone give me a hand with this thing. I've removed the 2 screws underneath the bracket towards the front side of the handlebar, but cannot locate the hangup next to the cruise control. Thanks! :confused:

[Matt]

If you're removing the control module to be able to level the clutch master cylinder prior to the fluid change....I wouldn't bother. Just push the handlebars all the way to the right, remove the cylinder cap and go from there. It's a bit of a PITA to remove the modules. IIRC there are a couple of phillips head screws that have to come out. You remove one to get to the other.
Same with the front brake master cylinder. No real need to level to adequately drain and fill.

Be sure to protect any painted surface from the fluid. It will eat paint. (or at least bubble it up)

[munson]

I agree, no need to loosen the grips. Another tip is to use one of the oem brake bleeder screws on the clutch bleeder. They have a flat tip that will push the clutch bleeder's ball valve back to allow flow. The SpeedBleeders have a pointed tip, and it's next to impossible to get them into the clutch valve.

Once I was taught to use the speedbleeder bag I have let my little vac gather dust. You don't even have to close the bleeder between handle pulls if you have the bag suspended above the valve. With thanks to BeemerRiderBob, Flush Brothers LLP.

[SteveHill]

I agree. I tried to level the clutch cylinder and decided it was too much trouble. Then it occurred to me, if it is ok to use the cylinder window to check the fluid level between changes, it must be ok to use it for filling it too. Just put the bike on the center stand and turn the front wheel to lock.

It works for me. In fact, it worked better than what the dealer did. They over filled it.

[Hairpin]

Matt, John and Steve,

Thank you kindly for the assist. I guess I need to learn to not take the manual too literally. I will proceed as you have advised and let you know how it turns out. This site is the best!

[jzeiler]

For the purists - there is one small screw at the very bottom backside of the radio control. Almost have to feel it. Then the cover comes off and there is one more screw in side.

[Hairpin]

I took John's suggestion and took the "purest" approach, removing the handlebar mounted controls. My incentive, other than curiosity, was to be able to mount my newly aquired Mityvac refill jar. The flat vertical front side of the resovoirs, exposed once the controls are removed, provide a solid mounting point.

Clutch and brake service went well, right up until I buggered the "grub screw" on the front right caliper. Judging from the color of the brake fluid that I flushed, I think it has been many, many miles since that screw was removed. I'm hopeful the dealer shop can extract it instead of selling me a new caliper.

New problem: I can't locate the male connector for the front seat heater. (guess I was taking things apart too fast.) Should I be looking in the front, the rear? I have no clue.

Another new problem: would someone be kind enough to tell me where this female connector belongs:
http://realgroup.com/BIKE/MysteryFemConnector.jpg
I don't recall seeing it during disassembly, but there it was winking at me from inside the right side airway next to the radiator as I was mounting the gas tank. No clue on this either.

It's been enjoyable going through the bike, getting a little bit familiar with the many systems. Also was a good opportunity to do a lot of cleaning. The blown fork seals had made quite a mess of things, adding a nice layer of grime to what was already 9 years of dust and dirt. New fork seals, a couple of ghetto mods, fresh fuel and air filters, can't wait to get it on the road.

Many thanks for the help!

[grifscoots]

That one will plug in on the top, right of the gas tank, it's for the gas gauge.

The seat heater plug will originate somewhere around the left side, the small tupperware piece that resides over the driver's footpeg.

[dshealey]

That one will plug in on the top, right of the gas tank, it's for the gas gauge.

The seat heater plug will originate somewhere around the left side, the small tupperware piece that resides over the driver's footpeg.The front seat heater plug on my '01 was zip tied to the top frame rail, left side. Easy to see with the seat up.

[BecketMa]

People suggested I put vice grips to the grub screws to remove them when I wanted to install speed bleeders.

Best from cold Tucson
Bob

[jzeiler]

If you have a grub screw on a caliper, it is in a filler adapter that can also be removed. Just be very careful and apply heat from a heat gun to soften the loctite, if you don't it will twist off. Once removed a standard bleed screw can be inserted.

[Hairpin]

10-4 on the vice grips, Bob. And the heat gun, John. I put a wrench on it, but didn't like the sound, not knowing where I was going if I did remove it. I'll hit it with some heat and see if I can't get it off.

Doh! to forgetting that the loose pitail is the gas gauge connection. Kind of like looking for your sunglasses while they're on your head.

Seat heat connection is still MIA. Ridiculous! I gotta be blind. It's not like it could leave the bike.

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll keep pluggin'.

[Hairpin]

Thanks to the help of the fine members here, I got everything back together and took Luther for a spin today. Amazing! Everything worked. I was a little concerned due to the 7 leftover screws I ended up with. But the clutch and brakes worked without a hitch. Motor was a bit balky the first 5 miles. Likely due to condensation in the gas tank while it sat around, inside and outside, for a couple weeks. The Street Pilot 2730 GPS works great using the FM modulator. (My radio pre-dates the line in option) Works just like the system in my Phaeton, plays MP3's through the stereo nicely, then interrupts with driving directions, then goes back to music. Awesome! Thanks guys. You're the best. :)