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LAF
Jun 2nd, 2008, 10:00 pm
Well the Avon's showed up so I got to try changing my first tire in my life. I chose the back as it had the plug in it, and started all this.

I marked and bolted a HF tire changer to my lift Saturday because of space so I remove four bolts and store it in my over flowing storage shed.

Fist off the HF is a very cheap looking piece of equipment and I had little faith in it. But it does work! First the bead breaker works like a charm and was what I was thinking was gonna be my worst thing.

I used some old cork tape from back in my glazing days on the clamps to protect the rim and still got a slight nick in my rim. I asked myself what happened and the explanation given was OK so I did not pursue it with the Service Manager :rolleyes:

As said here you CAN NOT use their bar at all. The 21" No-Mar bars and some spoons and a rim protector, good strong soapy water and all was well removing. Frankly I was really surprised how relatively easy it was to get off.

I then pulled the stem and cleaned the rim very well. I made sure ANY left over residue on the entire inside of the rim was off and cleaned the stem indentations. Pulled a new stem through that I got at Auto Zone four pack for 7 bucks or so .453 hole size.

Cleaned the outside and removed the 30 Gram weights from each side of the wheel. I was amazed there was 60 grams of weight, one spoke off the valve stem. Set two jack stands up one small block of wood on each, ran a level on it and it was between the bubbles. Broke out the Mark Parnes threw the wheel on and set it on the jack stand and it immediately goes valve stem strait up. Tried it a few times holding it in different positions and it always went 180 degree stem up, a small piece of painters tape to mark it and back to the HF.

Soap it all up the first half all but falls on. Second one I used two blocks of wood to hold it in the drop center as I worked it on with the small spoons and with a bit of persuasion it went on. Cool

Now back to the MP. Need to say here that it is a VERY nice Tool. Very intricate, precision made. Now this is where I am stressing as EVERYTHING I have done to this point is well documented on this Forum. All tips, hints, tricks, are well explained but I was a bit apprehensive up to this point as there is no substitute for doing it.

So no mark on the Avon so it is just put it on and hope. Throw it on the MP and sure enough valve stem dead top. I put a 1/4 OZ on one side, then another 1/4 on the other. I am dropping it from all locations and it now 180 valve to the left. So throw a 1/4 oz on each side of the others and it is there. I think? I can drop it from as low as one spoke and it stays. Spin it all over the place dropping it and it stops in no particular place. But if I take it very close to the bottom and drop it it will bottom out on the weights :confused: Not sure how crazy one should be on this but 28 grams, from 60 sounds good already :D

I am going to do the front tomorrow after work as I think that is a bit more to get off. And I think the rotors add some spice to the pot. And I wanted to do the plugged tire first and I felt the rear was a good novice choice.

Things I learned:
The HF needs some of that coating on the clamps. I will locate some.

You need to buy one of the nylon tip bars to use and I will.

If I had room, it would be a No-Mar changer all the way

Seating the bead was an experience, and I did fuss with that a bit until I got it. More soap water, and moved the tire up and down on the rim while laying flat and with your third hand put the air to it.

Make sure it is seated all the way around on both side as it can hold air and still not be seated all the way around. It makes a horrendous noise seating.

All I can say is it was work, but fun. I would have never attempted this without this Forum and the information and people here. Still not sure on the balance but a quick trip around the block revealed nothing as I was sure it would not, but any info/input would be appreciated.

Too early to claim victory, but a dealer will never try to bend me over on tires again. Independence on this issue is really cool.

If you are considering this and have the ability, for a pretty minimal investment you can do it. 250 for both tires went a long way on the HF changer and tools.

jzeiler
Jun 2nd, 2008, 10:04 pm
Lee,

Fair warning the front is a bit more of a challenge. Less room in the rim to work with and sidewalls that are just as stiff. The wood blocks are the key and an extra set of hands on the spoons will help. But it sound like you are on your way.

kellenbenz
Jun 3rd, 2008, 1:58 am
Things I learned:
The HF needs some of that coating on the clamps. I will locate some.

You need to buy one of the nylon tip bars to use and I will.



I use 3 Nylon rim protectors like shown in the link below and station them to go into the clamps on the HF changer. I also bought a Coats 220 bar that has replaceable nylon tips. It was a bit expensive for the bar but more than paid for itself.

http://store.eastcoastwheels.com/rimprotectors2.html

Ron

grifscoots
Jun 3rd, 2008, 6:48 am
Yeppir, when you get a decent bar, the job gets easier.

LAF
Jun 3rd, 2008, 10:03 pm
Came home from work and got the front done today.

As was said, it is a bit tighter and you don't get as much leverage because of the rotors.

The whole process went smoother then I expected. I think as a rookie the rear was the wise choice to learn on ;)

Still not sure on the balance but you truly can drive yourself mad with it. I spun it while I was breaking the HF off the lift (four bolts). I would spin it and gather things, note where it stopped, spun it again and so on about 12 times or so. It never stopped in the same position from any speed in any 1/4 of the wheel. So then I sat and dropped it from different areas, looking at the tire in quarters, and it never just sank to any one place, I was done :eek:

This is not for the faint of heart, or a novice with hand tools. But IMHO it is not "rocket science" and a rather cheap way to get a huge maintenance expense in check.

For a couple of hours of work and about 225-250 bucks in tools you break even on the first change. 250 for the Storms to the door, and the 250 in tools was 500.00 Close to what it would be at a dealer for 2 tires bought and changed there.

Next time 250 for the tires to the door ( I wont hold my breath) and that is it :D

:dance:

ironbuttwannabe
Jun 3rd, 2008, 10:31 pm
When you seated the bead did you have the valve in the valve stem out?

Thats how I do it. Seems like the air goes in quicker and it pops easier. First time, I usually get 2 pops. Check the tire all the way around and do it again for good measure.

joegottberg
Jun 4th, 2008, 12:04 pm
+ 1 on removing the valve stems before seating the beads.

It seems they give you that "Pop" more reliably with them removed.

little_jake
Jun 4th, 2008, 12:07 pm
are you talking value stem or value core?

LAF
Jun 4th, 2008, 12:46 pm
I thought of that just to seat the bead and then screw in the stem and re inflate. I will try it the next time.

The front popped nice, it was the rear I had a bit of a go with.

And yes the bead does pop twice to seat.

ironbuttwannabe
Jun 4th, 2008, 2:13 pm
are you talking value stem or value core?
the valve inside the stem, it could be called the valve stem core i guess.

LAF
Jun 4th, 2008, 2:55 pm
Yes I guess this can be confusing, valve stem, and valve.

Anyway it is the valve inside the stem that screws out. I have seen it done on big truck tires.

Depending on your compressor PSI not an issue in or out.

I mentioned it on my first post on the rear wheel because I did knock it around with a weighted mallet and then it went fine. I think it was somehow off, because I knelt in front of it, smacked it around each side with the mallet, soaped each side, pushed down around top then pulled up from bottom, gave it air, and it popped twice and seated.

The front went on the very first try and scared me to death, I stopped filling to look at it real well because it was going so good, saw all was well and just got the chuck on square and BANG, BANG, it seated, Wowa.

jzeiler
Jun 4th, 2008, 6:30 pm
Still not sure on the balance but you truly can drive yourself mad with it. I spun it while I was breaking the HF off the lift (four bolts). I would spin it and gather things, note where it stopped, spun it again and so on about 12 times or so. It never stopped in the same position from any speed in any 1/4 of the wheel. So then I sat and dropped it from different areas, looking at the tire in quarters, and it never just sank to any one place, I was done :eek:



Lee,

I use the MP balancer as well. I have had trouble in the past with the cones not staying up tight in the wheel - gave me some grief until I solved it there was a bit of flash left in the threaded holes that needed to be cleared out. Then I could get a good bite on the shaft. I don't spin it but just let it go as it will settle to the heavy spot. If it doesn't move, then I will give it a gentle spin. Sounds like you zeroed it out OK on the first go.

LAF
Jun 4th, 2008, 7:06 pm
Lee,

I use the MP balancer as well. I have had trouble in the past with the cones not staying up tight in the wheel - gave me some grief until I solved it there was a bit of flash left in the threaded holes that needed to be cleared out. Then I could get a good bite on the shaft. I don't spin it but just let it go as it will settle to the heavy spot. If it doesn't move, then I will give it a gentle spin. Sounds like you zeroed it out OK on the first go.

Thanks for letting me know I was OK in my use of the MP. I did notice that the cones would loosen. I will go get it and check to see if what you have found is true on mine also.

Overall I am pretty happy and if the damn rain lets up I can run it and see how I really did. I did ride it around the block a mile or so to check function of everything and did manage 60 MPH but only a short burst.

SilverBuffalo
Jun 4th, 2008, 7:41 pm
To seat the bead a little easier I use a regular or a racheting tie down strap around the circumference of the tire, pull it on tight and it pushes the "edges" outward just enough to hold them to the rim.

Once it pops I remove the strap before airing up the tire.

If you should ever have to change a tire "on the road" and are fortunate enough to have another bike with you, the sidestand can be used as an effective "bead breaker".

GlennM86
Jun 4th, 2008, 9:46 pm
I now have my Harbor Freight changer. My NoMar bar, lube, yellow thing showed up today. I have my new 85 degree valve stems.

I am still waiting for my SmarTire system and DynaBeads from Innovative Balancing ($14 total for both tires).

As soon as the rest of my stuff arrives I am going to attempt my first Motorcycle tire.

I grew up doing all of my Truck/Jeep tires...still do.

This delay in shipping will give me time to modify the Harbor Freight motorcycle adapter. I don't intend to use the portable tire changer (bottom part). I am going to make the hitch mount and attach it to the Motorcycle adapter and work off of one of my bumper hitches. Not enough space to bolt down the changer, or use a plywood base, or use 4x4's.