new clutch, now won't start

[chenley]

I recently completed the replacement of the clutch (’05 K1200LT). I had one bolt along with a matching lock-nut left when finished - the bolt and nut were in a zip lock bag labeled “STARTER”.

Now, I can’t get the bike started - when I turn on the key, the instrument panel lights up properly and things like the horn, center stand, turn signals, etc. work okay. when I press the start button, nothing happens. Side stand and center stand are up and kill switch is in central location.

Can anybody help with suggestions - Thanks Carl

[zippy_gg]

Perhaps this is the bolt used to connect the positive lead from the battery to the starter.:confused: Or the negative (ground)?

[chenley]

My starter has two threaded posts, each post has a nut associated with it.

There is a brownish wire coming from what I believe is the starter relay, that wire is routed to the starter and is crimped to a lug which is then connected to the front post on the starter.

A second brownish wire is also connected to that same lug in a pigtail fashion, and the second wire is connected to the rear post on the starter.

There is another brownish wire running from the starter relay to the negative battery post

Does that make sense?

[zippy_gg]

All that sounds like the negative side.

Do you have a big red wire going to the starter???

[MikeERideWNC]

Did your mechanic reset the hibernation capacitor?

If not you should get that checked immediately!




:rotf:

[chenley]

zippy-gg: No, but now that you mention it, it looks like I got my wires all goofed up.

Right now, I have two wires with red endings connected to the positive post of the battery. I think one of those goes to the starter (probably the front post), then the brownish wires connect to the rear post, and to the frame. If you could verify that for me, I'd appreciate it.

Thanks, Carl

[gisman]

Check the side stand switch. If not connected back correctly it could prevent starting.

I also stressed the ground cable when I lowered the engine. Just a couple of things that could mess you up. Easy enough to check. Good Luck

[grahamw]

Carl

There are 4 wires in that area that you have disconnected - 2 for the alternator - 1 push on and the other wire will only fit on the alternator - and 2 for the starter and if memory serves me correctly the connection nearest the back of the bike has 2 wires and the 1 connector with 1 wire goes to the front. On my bike the length of the wires do tend to dictate where they go. As others said check the side stand. Double check the reverse mechanism is seated properly - she will not start in reverse. Try pulling in th eclutch lever when you start.

Good luck.

[chenley]

gisman: thanks for suggestions. I think my stand switch is okay, but I’ll check it again. The leftover nut & bolt I spoke of in my original post turns out to be used to connect the ground wire to the frame. I’ll probably have to drop the engine to get that corrected.

Grahm Wintersgill: Thank you also for your input. It seems that my alternator is connected properly (like you described it). Do you remember the colors of the wires going to your starter? I’m thinking that one black wire, and one wire with a red ending connects to the starter post closest to the front of the back; then, a brownish wire connects to the other post (toward the back of the bike), with another brownish wire that is crimped to the same lug, grounding to the frame. This sound correct to you.

Since the instrument panel does not indicate Reverse position, and I’m able to shift between gears easily, I’m sure it’s not in reverse

I thought the length of the wires would make easy to determine correct wiring too - oops!

If you have any other suggestions, I’d be glad to hear them. In the mean time, I’ll be driving north about 500 miles and plan on stopping at a BMW dealer or two where I’ll pop the seat up on some of the floor model LT’s and get a good idea of how the wiring should look.

[jzeiler]

Looking at the diagram there should be a heavy Black (10 mm)wire from the starter to the starter junction where the heavy Black ( 6 mm)wire from the starter relay and a Heavy (10 mm) black/green wire from the reverser controller all tie together.

No brown wires in the starter circuit diagram.

[joegottberg]

The leftover nut & bolt I spoke of in my original post turns out to be used to connect the ground wire to the frame. I’ll probably have to drop the engine to get that corrected.

I think you can just connect "another" ground to frame if dropping the engine is a PITA. I can remember putting new grounds on the sh**-boxes I drove through school. Just a thought.

[grahamw]

Carl

Just been out to check and the black single wire goes to the front of the bike. The 2 brown wires are crimped to one connector and attach to the rearmost connection on the starter.

Regards

[chenley]

jzeiler: I’m not sure what diagram you are talking about. I have the BMW CD, and the Clymer repair manual - is it in either of these?

joegottberg: I think you are right - good thought

Grahm: I think I’m wired backwards - thanks

You’ve all been a great help, thanks -- Carl

[jzeiler]

The diagram is in the BMW CD called SLP2 it has all the electrical diagrams for all models up through 05. The wires I was speaking of are on the insulated post of the starter. There are some large brown ones but they are just grounds that don't show specifically on the diagram. I have found these diagrams to be useful but not always intuitive.


I did however go look at my starter (05) and there are the joined brown wires on a bolt and one large black wire on the starter insulated post. I believe the juction in the diagram that I spoke of is the one just behind the battery on the left side. It has large black wires on it and it is has an insulated cover on it. This is hot when I crank the bike. I would start there and work my way back to the starter relay.

Oh, sorry but I have to ask since you had the bike down for a long time, did you try the alarm (immobilizer). It could have defaulted back to armed (the immobilizer).

[chenley]

John:

Thanks for your explanation. I’m not literate when it comes to electrical talk, but I think I mostly understand what you are describing. Thanks to your input, I’m beginning to understand the system. That CD sounds like something I will need to get in the furture.

My greatest fear is that I had a ground wire (brown wire) connected to the starter insulated post at the same time the black (hot) wire was connected to the same post. It seems to me that this could have resulted in major shorting all over the place; i.e., the onboard computer.

I know where the junction you spoke of is, and I've followed that black wire back to the starter, but, I'm not sure where the starter relay is (or what it looks like). I followed the Brown wire from the starter back to a similar junction, also behind the battery, but on the right side. Is the other brown wire supposed to be bolted to the frame creating a fail safe ground?

Yes, I tried the alarm, I played with both buttons, just to see if something worked. Nothing seemed to happen when I did -- no red lights went on, nor did any of the cases lock.

Thanks for your help, Carl

[jzeiler]

OK, If you tried the alarm buttons and nothing happened your alarm may be malfunctioning. In that case it will not start. But this should help:

05 + Alarm Bypass (http://www.bmwlt.com/files/displayimage.php?album=15&pos=19)


I helped some one just the other day that had a bad alarm get his bike going with this solution.

Oh, and I doubt you toasted the Motronic. I had one where the starter relay had welded and the wires melted so bad and to so many other wires in the harness that the bike was "on" with the key out of the ignition. Once I pulled all the melted wires apart and taped them up all was well and the bike ran fine.

[chenley]

John:

Thanks for the information and for your encouragement. This, of course, is a very important project for me, but, a holiday is upon us, and, I have the opportunity to spend a long weekend with my family (2 grandkids) in Northern California. I’m in the process of packing for the trip right now, and, will be out of town until after Memorial Day. I’ll have to delay work on the bike until I return.

When I digest all the information you have provided, I’ll post my progress.

Hope you have a great Memorial Day holiday too!

Carl

[jzeiler]

Good Luck Carl,


Some times it is just best to walk away from it for a while and let the brain "clear". Enjoy your week end.

[chenley]

I know this is an old thread, but, I wanted to close it out. My Memorial Day holiday was extended, so, I didn’t get back to working on the repair as soon as I intended.

After getting lots of great input from the community on this forum, I tested the starter relay, side stand switch and reversing aid switch. The starter relay tested good, but, both the side stand switch and reverse switch were defective. To make a long story shorter, I replaced both defective switches and the bike started right up. That happened two days ago, and, now I have less than 200 test miles on it ( about 30 miles of which were fairly hard riding), and it seems to run great.

Thanks to all who chimed in to help me through this ordeal; I got lots of help from the “search” and “files” areas, so many of you came to my aid without realizing it - thanks to you too.

Carl Henley