Have a Custom Seat in Fl?

[browad]

Looking at getting a custom seat (Day Long, Mayer, etc) because of my distaste for stock. If anyone is close to me in Gainesville, Fl who has a non-stock seat that I can sit on and oogle please reply or shoot me a PM. I'll even buy lunch.

No Corbins need apply.

Thanks!

[browad]

Doesn't have to be that close. Any excuse to ride is a good one.

Cheers,

[DaveDragon]

I may be able to loan you my Rick Mayer Custom from my 2002LT.

We just need to meet up somewhere between Tampa & Gainesville and swap out your stock seat for the RM.

It's well broken in with 100,000 miles on it.

While it's not specifically shaped to you; it should give you a good idea what to expect from a RM Saddle.

[browad]

Wow, that's extremely kind. What I am aiming to do is try one of the "winged" seat designs, such as the Russell or Mayer seats, and that is a perfect opportunity. I'll PM you with my contact info.

Cheers,

[MikeERideWNC]

You could ride to Daytona and try a Corbin.

[Lee510]

No Corbins need apply.

Adam has already expressed his disinterest in Corbin, but didn't say why. What don't you like about Corbin? I have the front and rear on my LT. They are quite firm, but are shaped to fit your behind. I've found them to be well-made and comfortable.

[browad]

When I had my Fat Boy I splurged on a very pricey Corbin and was very disappointed. It was much too firm for me, and I went back to stock after giving it 4000 miles or so. So they're done getting my money.

True, that was on a different bike, but what makes a Corbin a Corbin is not for me.

Enjoy the weekend,

[Lynn_Keen]

Looking at getting a custom seat (Day Long, Mayer, etc) because of my distaste for stock. If anyone is close to me in Gainesville, Fl who has a non-stock seat that I can sit on and oogle please reply or shoot me a PM. I'll even buy lunch.

No Corbins need apply.

Thanks!
Hi Adam,
I'm in Mount Dora, FL. Have a Rick Mayer on my '05 LT with about 47,000 miles on it and a Russell Day Long on my R1150GS. If your interested in try'n 'em out Let me know. If your interested in doing the trial swap with Dave perhaps ya could meet here, it's about 1/2 way, and check out the Russell while your here. Send a PM if interested.

[browad]

Sorry for the delay in responding, this week has turned into one of those weeks. Thanks for the offer Lynn, I'd love to sit on the seat. Don't think I have time available for the next few weeks though (turning into one of those months actually), but I'll let you know and work out a time that works best for you.

Cheers,

[Lynn_Keen]

Sorry for the delay in responding, this week has turned into one of those weeks. Thanks for the offer Lynn, I'd love to sit on the seat. Don't think I have time available for the next few weeks though (turning into one of those months actually), but I'll let you know and work out a time that works best for you.

Cheers,
No problem Adam. Fortunately I don't have to deal with the WORK distraction, except for teaching an occasional weekend MSF class, so my schedule is pretty flexible. Just let me know when your ready.

[browad]

Just got back from a 1700 mile trip up to Mt Pisgah. Definitely need a new seat.

[browad]

As an update, Russell had an opening pop up, and the seat is on its way. The heater wire was a bit of a surprise, but nothing a pair of snips and a quick-connect can't fix.

Review of Russell will be upcoming.

[jzeiler]

You are going to love the Russell.

[Lynn_Keen]

Hey Adam, Congrats on the new seat. I'm sure the russell will represent a huge improvement over stock. I love the one on my GS. Anxious to hear your impressions.

[browad]

I hope so.

One more thing to add about the seat heater cord. It does have a retaining clip which requires the removal of the left side tupperware. There is a workaround however. If you snip the heater cable you can pull it through. Unclip the quick-connect heater cord (driver's side of the battery). Apply pressure gently at first, but then increase it until the cord starts to slide out. There will be resistance, but it will come out.

However, DO NOT PULL ON THE QUICK-CONNECT ITSELF!! That will put undue stress on the weakest point of that harness, and the wires could come out. Pull on the black wire sheath instead. One other note, sometimes the harness will be wedged very tight in the clip and will not come out easily. In that case, you can pull out the brown and green/brown internal wires from the black sheath first, followed by the sheath itself. Then feed the wires back in.

Lastly reattach the wires. In this case, you may be best served by soldering the wires back together, heat shrink tubing, and taping the sheath back together. Then reroute the heater cable whatever manner you like, and reattach the stock quick-connect.

Cheers,