HID for 07 1200RT

[bmendenhall]

I have read many of the comments regarding the HID lights, but they all seem to be directed at the LT and not the RT. I am very interested in upgrading my stock bulbs but have a few questions and need help:

1. What do I order for a 1200RT?
2. How difficult is the installation? I am OK with directions but I am not an electrical engineer.

I spoke to my local BMW service rep and he said that the HIDs burn to hot and have a short life. Should I reconsider and just go with a simple Piaa H7 upgrade.

Any suggestions are appreciated.
Brian
07 1200RT

[GMG12RT]

I changed the 2-low and 1-high bulbs on my 06 RT to piaa extreme white plus bulbs. I have been very happy with the amount of extra light they give.

Glenn.

[amarider]

Actually they burn cooler and have a longer life. But they are more expensive and draw extra juice for a second when they fire up. Once running the standard HID draws 35 watts compared to 55 watts for a typical bulb.

[bmendenhall]

Thank you, but when it makes the energy draw does it create any computer errors? Also can you tell me what model you used for your HID's.

Thanks...
Brian

[hendsv]

The bulb kits you need for an R1200RT are H7 (all three). If you're doing high and low you can get an H7 auto kit for the low beams and an H7 MC (single) kit for the high. Kits from Fashtec or CQlights are good.

The higher initial start-up current draw to load the ballasts (step-up transformer) is momentary, will not cause electrical problems from heat, but can cause problems with the Canbus electronics sensing circuits. This is a function of which program version your bike is running -- on some versions an HID install is plug-n-play, others, the Canbus will display a fault or shut the bike down. (Don't ask).

If you do a low beam install and Canbus faults, the alternate installation would be to tap/run the power lead to a fuse block directly off the battery (the control leads would still be run from the bikes system). Since the bike would be stripped for the install I would recommend being prepared for the alternate install.

Another advantage (after extraordinary light output) of an HID install is freeing-up alternator capacity. With three HIDs you will have an additional 60W of alternator capacity in you're electrical budget.

Steve

[hendsv]

If you do a low beam install and Canbus faults, the alternate installation would be to tap/run the power lead to a fuse block directly off the battery (the control leads would still be run from the bikes system). Since the bike would be stripped for the install I would recommend being prepared for the alternate install.

Steve

I failed to mention here that the power leads would be run through a relay triggered from the bike's control lead.

Steve

[RTrev]

I'm not sure that this applies to motorcycles as I found it did in cars, but if you simply put Xenon bulbs in your bike you'll not only be illegal but also quite disappointed.

I tried that in an Audi A4, and it wasn't an improvement at all. Not only that, but to be legal one needs auto-leveling technology, so that, for example, when stopped at a red light on a slight uphill, you don't permanently burn out the retinas of any drivers facing you. <g>

I think the problem is that the Xenon lights work well with the Eurospec lenses, but not so well with the horrid lenses forced on us here in the U.S.

I spent a lot, and was bitter and disappointed at the end. I'm just hoping you don't have the same experience.

Bob

[bmendenhall]

Thank you RTrev, after much consideration I think just upgrading the bulbs to the extreme white is the better solution.

[bmendenhall]

Well I installed the HID low beams and cant believe the difference - the only comparison I can make is that driving at night with HID's is like driving during the day. It definitely gets the attention of other drivers.

Here is the shocker, no relay was necessary - simply plug and play. No canbus issues. The only modification we had to make was to drill a 1 inch hole in the back of the low beam housing to accommodate the wiring - that was it! If you have a 2007 RT I
highly recommend this $150.00 purchase.

Thank you again everyone for your advise and suggestions!
:dance:

[Randy]

Here is the shocker, no relay was necessary - simply plug and play. No canbus issues. The only modification we had to make was to drill a 1 inch hole in the back of the low beam housing to accommodate the wiring - that was it! If you have a 2007 RT I
highly recommend this $150.00 purchase.As a matter of fact the use of a relay will cause a headlight fault. The ZFE (chassis electronics controller) is looking for a burned out bulb when it generates a fault. The way it detects that is too LITTLE current through the headlight circuit. Using a relay puts all of the headlight current through the relay contacts and the only load seen by the ZFE is the relay coil, only a small fraction of an amp. A 55-watt incandescent bulb draws about 4 amps - roughly the same as an operating HID ballast.

[tazz56]

Brian,
What brand HID lights did you get and from where?

[bmendenhall]

I purchased the Fashek (see link below) you will need the:

- H7 - two kit
- I got the 5000K color a great looking white, did not want the blue color

I went to a BMW dealership in CA today and they wanted $300 for the set, as you will see you can get them much cheaper direct from Fashtek.

http://www.fashtek.com/

Let me know how it goes for you.....

[tazz56]

I'm not ready for HID yet, but I added their website to my fav's for later. I forget which way the numbers for the colors go. Does the 5000 kit throw out more usable light than the 4300 kit?

[bmendenhall]

5000 is a bright white, as the number goes higher the color turns bluer.

[meese]

4200K is close to natural sunlight (just slightly yellow). 5000K is pretty white, with a tiny tinge of blue. Anything above that sets you out as one of the poser rice rocket crowd. :)
So either 4300K or 5000K will work great on the bikes and give you the most useable light output. http://www.k-bikes.com/forums/images/smilies/sun.gif :cool:

[AliMar]

Senior Kelvin is just a bit hung over from Sunk-de-Mayo. But if'n he correctly remembers, a sunny sunspotless ball'o'gas is like $5K whereas a dead sleep is like $0K. Kelvin is one hot and cold dude.

[dshealey]

I'm not sure that this applies to motorcycles as I found it did in cars, but if you simply put Xenon bulbs in your bike you'll not only be illegal but also quite disappointed.

I tried that in an Audi A4, and it wasn't an improvement at all. Not only that, but to be legal one needs auto-leveling technology, so that, for example, when stopped at a red light on a slight uphill, you don't permanently burn out the retinas of any drivers facing you. <g>

I think the problem is that the Xenon lights work well with the Eurospec lenses, but not so well with the horrid lenses forced on us here in the U.S.

I spent a lot, and was bitter and disappointed at the end. I'm just hoping you don't have the same experience.

BobI assume you put actual HID units (with ballast) in your Audi, not just "Xenon" bulbs that are sold that are basically nothing but halogen incandescant bulbs with a little Xenon gas in them.

I upgraded one of my cars, and my LT to HID with GREAT results! The pre 2005 LT headlights work fantastically with low beam HID, great focus and sharp upper cut off pattern, just like the original halogen. That headlamp unit has the high beam reflector in front of the low beam bulb, so there is no glare thrown from the bulb itself.

[dshealey]

As a matter of fact the use of a relay will cause a headlight fault. The ZFE (chassis electronics controller) is looking for a burned out bulb when it generates a fault. The way it detects that is too LITTLE current through the headlight circuit. Using a relay puts all of the headlight current through the relay contacts and the only load seen by the ZFE is the relay coil, only a small fraction of an amp. A 55-watt incandescent bulb draws about 4 amps - roughly the same as an operating HID ballast.

I don't know about the newer bikes, but on earlier BMW cars the LKM module is what does that, but it does not measure operating current through the headlight bulb when it is on. On those cars the LKM module periodically applies a small voltage when the light is turned off to check for the appropriate resistance. Somewhat of a strange way to do it though, they will only throw a fault code when the light is turned OFF. If you are on a long trip and a bulb burns out, you won't know untill you turn the light off again. I know that my two BMW cars have been very sensitive to the correct bulb being used in all lights, especially tail and brake lights. Put in an American tail/brake light bulb will usually cause fault codes because the filament resistance when the bulb is not lit will be a little off.

Newer CANBUS cars and bikes may work entirely differently though.

[RTrev]

I assume you put actual HID units (with ballast) in your Audi, not just "Xenon" bulbs that are sold that are basically nothing but halogen incandescant bulbs with a little Xenon gas in them.

I upgraded one of my cars, and my LT to HID with GREAT results! The pre 2005 LT headlights work fantastically with low beam HID, great focus and sharp upper cut off pattern, just like the original halogen. That headlamp unit has the high beam reflector in front of the low beam bulb, so there is no glare thrown from the bulb itself.

Yes, it was quite expensive, and illegal, but I had the real Xenon setup. I had a BMW/Audi shop do the install. I never did figure out why I didn't see any improvement. I just guessed that it had to do with "Eurospec" versus "DOT" headlight reflector designs. I've heard that many Europeans, on first driving a U.S. car at night, turn on the lights, get out, walk around the front, and scratch their heads. They're puzzled why they can't see anything. So that was my first guess.. the DOT specs for the reflectors prevented any light from working well.

No idea.

Bob

[BeemerArp]

I did a Fashtek 4300K hid upgrade to both lows and the high on my 07 R12RT. Put two ballasts behind the right speaker area and the other behind the left speaker area. I used 3M double sided mounting tape and zip ties ... very secure. Very easy plug and play installation with NO CANbus issues. Spectacular lighting ... better than expected!

[RTrev]

Just curious, but do you know if your install is legal? I was told that a self-leveling system was required, at least in a car, so that the lights would always be aimed correctly and not blind on-coming traffic--regardless of any load in the car, in the trunk, etc.. I would guess that the same issues would apply to bikes, but I don't know for a fact. Wouldn't adding a passenger change the vertical orientation of the bike (unless it was corrected for by adjusting the spring preload)?

I'm still back at square one. I have no idea why my cool-looking new Xenon system didn't improve my night vision at all in the Audi.

I'm glad it worked out for you on the bike. It seems like it should work. :confused:

Best,
Bob

[iambob]

Just curious, but do you know if your install is legal? I was told that a self-leveling system was required, at least in a car, so that the lights would always be aimed correctly and not blind on-coming traffic--regardless of any load in the car, in the trunk, etc.. I would guess that the same issues would apply to bikes, but I don't know for a fact. Wouldn't adding a passenger change the vertical orientation of the bike (unless it was corrected for by adjusting the spring preload)?


Best,
Bob

Don't know about your bike, but my bike has a 'switch' under the front cowling for one up or two up riding.. it adjusts the headlight accordingly.

[RTrev]

Don't know about your bike, but my bike has a 'switch' under the front cowling for one up or two up riding.. it adjusts the headlight accordingly.

Does your bike also have ESA? I'm wondering if the ESA shouldn't keep the bike fairly level. I don't recall any switch for headlight adjustment, but maybe that's only on the non-ESA bikes?

<wanders off to get his manual>

[iambob]

Does your bike also have ESA? I'm wondering if the ESA shouldn't keep the bike fairly level. I don't recall any switch for headlight adjustment, but maybe that's only on the non-ESA bikes?

<wanders off to get his manual>
Yep, I got ESA on it..

The switch is hard to reach, but it's there.

Reach under the cowling just to the left of the high bean.. if you look under there the switch lever is WHITE and an adjusting nut sits under/within it. The switch arm is a couple of inches long, but it's still a pain to reach.

It looks the same as the one on my 2002RS.

[TJRL]

BeemerArp or anyone,

What HID units did you use and does your radio still work OK? I have just fitted 3 HID units and the light output is just stunning, but now my BMW radio only works on very strong local stations because of the interference created by the HIDs. In addition I get a buzzing when I use the high beam but not on the low beam (even if I switch the units around??)

I have tried direct wiring the ballasts to the battery (yes got a bulb out fault indicated!) and installing the radio suppression kits designed for my HID units, but still the radio is killed by interference

I am about to rip them all out and return for credit but really love the extra power of the lights. If you have the model details of a unit that works with the radio please let me know.

Many thanks
Toby

[BeemerArp]

I don't have a radio on the bike.
However, I have an Autocom on it and have no interference.

[TJRL]

BeemerArp,

Thank you for the reply; I just assumed you had the BMW radio / CD unit as you mentioned having speakers fitted.

I have found that my HIDs interfere with my radio but not the CD or Ipod either on the speakers or Autocom no matter what I try. So it seems from my experience that it is not possible to fit HIDs on the 1200RT without making the radio us. One to add to the collective knowledge!

Toby

[iambob]

BeemerArp,

Thank you for the reply; I just assumed you had the BMW radio / CD unit as you mentioned having speakers fitted.

I have found that my HIDs interfere with my radio but not the CD or Ipod either on the speakers or Autocom no matter what I try. So it seems from my experience that it is not possible to fit HIDs on the 1200RT without making the radio us. One to add to the collective knowledge!

Toby
Ferrite EMI filters for the Ballast cables??

I find this an interesting problem. As what I understand the Ballast is only used for the start up of the lights, then it drops down to just running off of the bike power from the OEM light.

So, once you start up I would think the interference would go away.. I can't imagine the interference is coming from the bulbs themselves, but either from the Ballast, or the cables from the ballast to the bulbs..

You could make a mini Faraday cage, wrap a single ballast up to see if that's where the interference is coming from. Buy a small piece of copper mesh to place the Ballast in just to test if it's the ballast doing it.