Tire off for front shock?

[LAF]

I am just preparing myself for spring shock install and see it says to remove the front wheel.

Why do you need to do that?

If you have a center lift, cant you just raise it enough to expand the top of the strut out of the tower, and extend the forks all out? Or is it because you need to swing it forward and down at the lower link to gain clearance and angle out of the top shock tower and hit the tire no matter what?

Either way the Tupperware is the time eater from what I see no matter what. I am still a "Solo Tupperware Cherry", I was around a Tupperware party (frenzy), but it ain't the same when it is just you and the crickets.

As far as the shock install it looks pretty strait forward to me, front and rear.

Just that wheel removing thing to clear up :confused:

Not that it matters, they are going on anyway :rolleyes:

[grifscoots]

Remove the REAR wheel. That way you can jack the front up enough for clearance. You have to reach up into the shock tower, remove a rubber donut, then push the end back up thru the hole to get the shock out.

[tbarstow]

Yes, the front tire has to come off. You can't lift the bike high enough (short of suspending it) to get the leading link pivoted out of the way to remove the old front shock.

By "center lift" are you referring to a bike jack? If so, don't try the center lift on the LT, it will just tip forward and get expensive.

[murray]

[QUOTE=LAF]I am just preparing myself for spring shock install and see it says to remove the front wheel.

Why do you need to do that?

You do not have to ! Here are some tips.

First strip the bike down to gain access to the top shock mounting nut. If you have access to air tools use them , the air gun will spin the nut off. If you have to remove the nut by hand use the weight of the bike to preload the shock . This will help keep the shaft from spinning and you may not need the allen wrench to hold shaft. Once the top nut is loose, I said not off! Put the bike on the center stand.

I always keep the front wheel on. Place a hydraulic jack under the motor , Raise the jack just enough to top out the front fork. This will keet the bike stable. Loosen telelever ball joint nut, remove lower shock bolt. Tap telelever with a mallet to loosen, remove balljoint nut then pull forks foreword loosen top nut and pull shock. Assemble in reverse order.

[grifscoots]

I've done a bunch of these and have never taken the telever loose. Trust me, just take the rear tire off, use a piece of wood under the engine and jack the front of the bike up.

The reason you're having to take the telever loose is you aren't reaching up into the shock tower and taking the rubber donut off. Doing that gives you enough room to then shove the top of the shock up thru the top hole to get the shock out. It can be a bear to as there is little room, but it's the easiest way to go.

You also have to set the shock back in place and replace this donut.

+1 on the air tools!

[murray]

I've done a bunch of these and have never taken the telever loose.
+1 on the air tools!

Perhaps this works with removal and reinstall of the stock showa. I have had Works now Ohlins up front and there is no way the shock will drop down that far. My preload collar is 10 mm above the telelever.
I can remove the ball joint nut and disconnect the telelever much quicker than removal of the rear wheel. 1 dust cap & nut vs 2 screws and 5 bolts.

[jzeiler]

I had the front off for a new tire anyway. Just undid the brake line brackets and the forks will slide down far enough to easily slide out the old shock and plenty of room for the Ohlin replacement. Don't have to fight the green loctite on the ball joint.

[grifscoots]

Oh yeah, you don't have to take the rear wheel off if you're doing a rear shock, too.

I'd just rather take the rear wheel off, instead of messing with the calipers and motolights (doesn't everyone have motolights?

[LAF]

Oh yeah, you don't have to take the rear wheel off if you're doing a rear shock, too.

I'd just rather take the rear wheel off, instead of messing with the calipers and motolights (doesn't everyone have motolights?


EGGGZactly my point. Motolights. 5 bolts and 2 screws that are easy to get to versus the front wheel/motolights, and the realigning of said motolights.

Plus my front tire looks great and the bike handles well, just do/did not want to break the front wheel off if I did not have too.

I don't understand what you mean by not having to remove the rear tire if your doing the rear too???? I am doing both so could use guidance here.

[LAF]

Thank you everyone :D

Seems this is not as cut and dried as I had thought.

Still not sure why an LT wont sit on a center bike jack. It held my Road Glide more times then I can even count? I will have to try and fit it and see. I wont be too broke up as it must weigh 175 lbs, but it worked well and you can spin the bike in just a hair over its length so it was cool to spin the RG and shove it in the back of the carport. As I said i will see if it fits.

Seems getting the forks stretched is what needs done, I just gotta figure how best to accomplish that with what I have available, a floor jack, a bike jack, and of course the center stand.

Thanks again for all the suggestions and keep them coming.

[lavamanz]

If you're removing the rear shock that will work or if you remove the rear tire. The front tire doesn't need to come off and the ball joint doesn't need to be separated either. Be sure and use an air tool to get the top nut off so the shock doesn't spin. Also keep that nut and washer in your grip I let mine drop twice and thought I would never find it in the cavity it falls into. Also once the nut / washer / rubber bushing is off the top of the shock you can let the shock drop down with the bike lifted and then remove the lower bushing from the shock threads. This gives you some extra clearance for getting the shock out.