desertlizard
Nov 11th, 2007, 7:45 pm
“Texas,” my wife, Karen, said, “Why the hell would I want to go to Texas?”
“Uh, supposed to be some good riding there, I heard.” I said.
That was about two years ago. Since then, I’ve strategically mentioned such things as;
“Did you know “Giant” was filmed in Marfa, Texas?”
“Yeah? Wasn’t that the movie with the big ranch house in the middle of a flat featureless desert?”
And other subliminal points like;
“Hey, check out these mysterious lights that no one can figure out. We could see them near Marfa, Texas.”
And, “It’d be kind of cool to see the Rio Grande, huh?”
I think I finally broke her down and she was damn excited to go to Texas.
“Sure, wherever you want to go, I just don’t want to be cold, this time.” This may have been a reference to last Thanksgiving when we rode to Zion National Park and the temps may have hit the low 30’s on the way there.
So, we got a couple of days off, Nov. 1st and the 2nd. We booked a room at the Hotel Paisano http://www.hotelpaisano.com/ for two nights. This place was built in 1930 and was the home of James Dean and Elizabeth Taylor while they filmed “Giant.”
We packed the heated gear got ready for the ride. Our cat Gilda tried to stow away in one of the bags. http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=15217&stc=1
The ride to Marfa was pretty uneventful. We just jumped on I-10 in Tucson and rode for a while. It was a pretty boring ride through desert passing many, many semis. I just stuck the cruise control at a bit over 80 allowing for speedo error, and then used bursts of speed to pass the trucks. Somewhere around the middle of New Mexico signs started appearing for Barnett Harley Davidson. What the hell is with this place? Is it the Wall Drug of Texas? http://www.barnettharley.com/
We hit the turnoff for Marfa at Van Horn and finally got off the interstate. Man that is one long straight road south from there. We got to the Paisano and checked in. This is one cool old Hotel. It reminded me a bit of the Overlook from the Shining complete with old music playing in the dining room while we had a late evening dinner, and a picture on the wall with a dead ringer for the old butler guy, or whatever he was. This was crossed with the old school key that reminded us of the room in “1408.” In spite of this, or perhaps because of the wonderful pillow top bed (Got to look into one of those for our house) we slept like babies. No, not waking up screaming every half hour. So, actually we slept more like really sleepy people who slept in a bit.
http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=15224&stc=1
http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=15219&stc=1
After dinner that first night we did take a bit of a ride out to the Marfa Mystery Lights viewing area. Actually we rode quite a bit past the viewing area, which is not well marked right now from the Marfa side. After turning around near Alpine, we did see the sign coming from that way. It was pretty dark out. We could clearly see the Milky Way and billions and billions of stars. The Marfa lights were pretty shy. The only thing I saw were probably lights coming from the highway off in the distance to the right of the blinking red light tower.
The next morning we woke up at the crack of nine, although that was Texas time. Tucson time would have been about seven. That is one hour for the time change and one hour for daylight savings time that Arizona does not observe. Arizona doesn’t need another freaking hour of daylight in the summer. We all agree on this.
We skipped breakfast and jumped on the bike after a conversation with a couple parked next to us in a beautiful 2003 Morgan. I guess that car has a bit of character, in other words they are a bit familiar with the repair shop.
http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=15220&stc=1
They left the hotel just a few minutes before us on their way to a chili festival at Terlingua, with a warning to us that sheriffs were extra strict this weekend due to the chili festival and a friend of theirs was stopped for five over the speed limit. We passed them on HW 67 on the way to Presidio. 67 was a nice ride of a long straight followed by a few sweeping curves as we headed into Presidio. They passed us as we stopped for a photo op.
http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=15221&stc=1
At Presidio I mistakenly stayed on HW67 and ended up at the border crossing. I flipped a quick U-turn and headed back toward town, thinking I might end up with border guys thinking that was a suspicious move. No one chased so we continued on.
After Presidio we join Farm Road 170. This is really where the riding became fun. This road winds along the Rio Grande and one can really see the river and the separation of the US and Mexico. For me, it was nice to see the border all natural. Since we’re from southern Arizona we’re used to seeing the twin Nogales cities and ugly fence, and complete difference from one side to the other. The border at Lukeville, (Gringo Pass) is much the same.
The river road was a blast with not that much traffic. We crossed paths with the Morgan people a few more times as we stopped at viewpoints and contemplated the river and the beauty of the area.
http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=15222&stc=1
We also interacted with the local wildlife.
http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=15223&stc=1
At Lajitas we turned away from the river and toward Big Bend National Park. We passed by the chili festival that looked to have several hundred RV’s. We went into Terlingua and stopped at the Ghost Town café.
http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=15225&stc=1
We decided to order the chili. Keep in mind that while we are now ‘Zonies, we both grew up in Minnesota. Our first bite of West Texas chili was a true holy crap moment. I was reminded of poor judge number three from the old Texas chili contest story. http://www.jokecrazy.com/modules.php?name=AvantGo&file=print&sid=1322
After a few bites and some mouth numbing the chili was actually really good and we both finished every last bit of it. The next morning is another story that I really don’t want to talk about.
We continued into Big Bend and bought an annual park pass. We usually need it. The speed limit said 45 MPH. Mindful of warnings I received here and of the big fines in federal parks (I’m still paying a $500 parking ticket,) I set the cruise control and an uncorrected 62 MPH and figured I’d see what other traffic was doing. Not two minutes into the park a truck flew by me so fast I almost got off my bike to see why I was stopped. I kept it at about 65 (probably really high 50’s?) and figured I’d just have a relaxing ride. I really didn’t need any tickets, and we were seeing increasing varieties of wildlife, including Javelina.
We took the side road to Chisos Basin. This was another great road with 15 to 20 MPH corners. We saw several mule deer at the sides of the road. We stopped at the end of the road and admired the views.
http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=15226&stc=1
We then made a brief stop at the visitor center. Did not really see anything special there except a nice spot for a bathroom break. We then headed out of the park and toward Marathon and Alpine. We did take one final stop in the park at the fossil bone exhibit. We had the place to ourselves.
We left the park and had HW 385 to ourselves. I really, really drink too much coffee and luckily am a man, so I stopped at a historical marker to let some of the coffee free.
We gassed up in Marathon and arrived back at the Marfa Mystery Lights viewing area just as the sun was setting. It was a gorgeous sunset, and this time armed with some information from locals on where the highway was visible looked for lights that could be labeled as mysterious. There was one. That started fairly bright then went what I would estimate as about 10 miles in 20 seconds, got really bright, and then went back the way it came and disappeared. I don’t know what is was but it didn’t look like a car or ranch light. I guess I would call it mysterious.
We went back into Marfa and looked for a café for something cheap to eat. Most were closed since it was now after 8:00 in the evening. We found The Blue Javelina. It was a really nice restaurant with some nice outdoor seating for us smokers. We had a fine meal, although not as cheap as we were hoping. It seemed like the place that Jack Tripper from Three’s Company would have opened if he lived in Marfa. The place was built in an old gas station and they used the hydraulic lift to center a large community table that seated about 18. We chatted with a local women who told us all about the arts and events in the area while she stepped out for a smoke. Full and happy we went back to the Paisano. It really is a nice hotel and we settled in for another nice nights sleep. In the morning we lazily got ready to head back to Tucson. We lit a fire on the patio in the Kiva fireplace and hung out.
http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=15228&stc=1
http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=15218&stc=1
We finally packed up and rode the boring stretch of I-10 back to Tucson.
We will definitely plan a return trip to the area. There are many roads I missed, many things I want to see. We need at least two more days. I want to ride around Ft. Davis, and ride more roads in the park, and see more things in Marfa like the Chinati Foundation works of art. Karen was comfortable and not cold the whole trip, and is anxious for a return trip. We got just a sampling.
I’ll give a few notes on the bike. My 2003 LT now has about 40k on the clock and on the way east we got about 32 MPG running into a light wind of 10-15mph. On the way back west we got about 42 MPG running in no wind. That is about the best I’ve been able to get running on the interstates. No problems other than with our Intaride intercom. To those still reading, thanks.
Dale White
“Uh, supposed to be some good riding there, I heard.” I said.
That was about two years ago. Since then, I’ve strategically mentioned such things as;
“Did you know “Giant” was filmed in Marfa, Texas?”
“Yeah? Wasn’t that the movie with the big ranch house in the middle of a flat featureless desert?”
And other subliminal points like;
“Hey, check out these mysterious lights that no one can figure out. We could see them near Marfa, Texas.”
And, “It’d be kind of cool to see the Rio Grande, huh?”
I think I finally broke her down and she was damn excited to go to Texas.
“Sure, wherever you want to go, I just don’t want to be cold, this time.” This may have been a reference to last Thanksgiving when we rode to Zion National Park and the temps may have hit the low 30’s on the way there.
So, we got a couple of days off, Nov. 1st and the 2nd. We booked a room at the Hotel Paisano http://www.hotelpaisano.com/ for two nights. This place was built in 1930 and was the home of James Dean and Elizabeth Taylor while they filmed “Giant.”
We packed the heated gear got ready for the ride. Our cat Gilda tried to stow away in one of the bags. http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=15217&stc=1
The ride to Marfa was pretty uneventful. We just jumped on I-10 in Tucson and rode for a while. It was a pretty boring ride through desert passing many, many semis. I just stuck the cruise control at a bit over 80 allowing for speedo error, and then used bursts of speed to pass the trucks. Somewhere around the middle of New Mexico signs started appearing for Barnett Harley Davidson. What the hell is with this place? Is it the Wall Drug of Texas? http://www.barnettharley.com/
We hit the turnoff for Marfa at Van Horn and finally got off the interstate. Man that is one long straight road south from there. We got to the Paisano and checked in. This is one cool old Hotel. It reminded me a bit of the Overlook from the Shining complete with old music playing in the dining room while we had a late evening dinner, and a picture on the wall with a dead ringer for the old butler guy, or whatever he was. This was crossed with the old school key that reminded us of the room in “1408.” In spite of this, or perhaps because of the wonderful pillow top bed (Got to look into one of those for our house) we slept like babies. No, not waking up screaming every half hour. So, actually we slept more like really sleepy people who slept in a bit.
http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=15224&stc=1
http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=15219&stc=1
After dinner that first night we did take a bit of a ride out to the Marfa Mystery Lights viewing area. Actually we rode quite a bit past the viewing area, which is not well marked right now from the Marfa side. After turning around near Alpine, we did see the sign coming from that way. It was pretty dark out. We could clearly see the Milky Way and billions and billions of stars. The Marfa lights were pretty shy. The only thing I saw were probably lights coming from the highway off in the distance to the right of the blinking red light tower.
The next morning we woke up at the crack of nine, although that was Texas time. Tucson time would have been about seven. That is one hour for the time change and one hour for daylight savings time that Arizona does not observe. Arizona doesn’t need another freaking hour of daylight in the summer. We all agree on this.
We skipped breakfast and jumped on the bike after a conversation with a couple parked next to us in a beautiful 2003 Morgan. I guess that car has a bit of character, in other words they are a bit familiar with the repair shop.
http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=15220&stc=1
They left the hotel just a few minutes before us on their way to a chili festival at Terlingua, with a warning to us that sheriffs were extra strict this weekend due to the chili festival and a friend of theirs was stopped for five over the speed limit. We passed them on HW 67 on the way to Presidio. 67 was a nice ride of a long straight followed by a few sweeping curves as we headed into Presidio. They passed us as we stopped for a photo op.
http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=15221&stc=1
At Presidio I mistakenly stayed on HW67 and ended up at the border crossing. I flipped a quick U-turn and headed back toward town, thinking I might end up with border guys thinking that was a suspicious move. No one chased so we continued on.
After Presidio we join Farm Road 170. This is really where the riding became fun. This road winds along the Rio Grande and one can really see the river and the separation of the US and Mexico. For me, it was nice to see the border all natural. Since we’re from southern Arizona we’re used to seeing the twin Nogales cities and ugly fence, and complete difference from one side to the other. The border at Lukeville, (Gringo Pass) is much the same.
The river road was a blast with not that much traffic. We crossed paths with the Morgan people a few more times as we stopped at viewpoints and contemplated the river and the beauty of the area.
http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=15222&stc=1
We also interacted with the local wildlife.
http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=15223&stc=1
At Lajitas we turned away from the river and toward Big Bend National Park. We passed by the chili festival that looked to have several hundred RV’s. We went into Terlingua and stopped at the Ghost Town café.
http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=15225&stc=1
We decided to order the chili. Keep in mind that while we are now ‘Zonies, we both grew up in Minnesota. Our first bite of West Texas chili was a true holy crap moment. I was reminded of poor judge number three from the old Texas chili contest story. http://www.jokecrazy.com/modules.php?name=AvantGo&file=print&sid=1322
After a few bites and some mouth numbing the chili was actually really good and we both finished every last bit of it. The next morning is another story that I really don’t want to talk about.
We continued into Big Bend and bought an annual park pass. We usually need it. The speed limit said 45 MPH. Mindful of warnings I received here and of the big fines in federal parks (I’m still paying a $500 parking ticket,) I set the cruise control and an uncorrected 62 MPH and figured I’d see what other traffic was doing. Not two minutes into the park a truck flew by me so fast I almost got off my bike to see why I was stopped. I kept it at about 65 (probably really high 50’s?) and figured I’d just have a relaxing ride. I really didn’t need any tickets, and we were seeing increasing varieties of wildlife, including Javelina.
We took the side road to Chisos Basin. This was another great road with 15 to 20 MPH corners. We saw several mule deer at the sides of the road. We stopped at the end of the road and admired the views.
http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=15226&stc=1
We then made a brief stop at the visitor center. Did not really see anything special there except a nice spot for a bathroom break. We then headed out of the park and toward Marathon and Alpine. We did take one final stop in the park at the fossil bone exhibit. We had the place to ourselves.
We left the park and had HW 385 to ourselves. I really, really drink too much coffee and luckily am a man, so I stopped at a historical marker to let some of the coffee free.
We gassed up in Marathon and arrived back at the Marfa Mystery Lights viewing area just as the sun was setting. It was a gorgeous sunset, and this time armed with some information from locals on where the highway was visible looked for lights that could be labeled as mysterious. There was one. That started fairly bright then went what I would estimate as about 10 miles in 20 seconds, got really bright, and then went back the way it came and disappeared. I don’t know what is was but it didn’t look like a car or ranch light. I guess I would call it mysterious.
We went back into Marfa and looked for a café for something cheap to eat. Most were closed since it was now after 8:00 in the evening. We found The Blue Javelina. It was a really nice restaurant with some nice outdoor seating for us smokers. We had a fine meal, although not as cheap as we were hoping. It seemed like the place that Jack Tripper from Three’s Company would have opened if he lived in Marfa. The place was built in an old gas station and they used the hydraulic lift to center a large community table that seated about 18. We chatted with a local women who told us all about the arts and events in the area while she stepped out for a smoke. Full and happy we went back to the Paisano. It really is a nice hotel and we settled in for another nice nights sleep. In the morning we lazily got ready to head back to Tucson. We lit a fire on the patio in the Kiva fireplace and hung out.
http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=15228&stc=1
http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=15218&stc=1
We finally packed up and rode the boring stretch of I-10 back to Tucson.
We will definitely plan a return trip to the area. There are many roads I missed, many things I want to see. We need at least two more days. I want to ride around Ft. Davis, and ride more roads in the park, and see more things in Marfa like the Chinati Foundation works of art. Karen was comfortable and not cold the whole trip, and is anxious for a return trip. We got just a sampling.
I’ll give a few notes on the bike. My 2003 LT now has about 40k on the clock and on the way east we got about 32 MPG running into a light wind of 10-15mph. On the way back west we got about 42 MPG running in no wind. That is about the best I’ve been able to get running on the interstates. No problems other than with our Intaride intercom. To those still reading, thanks.
Dale White