Throttle Cable Replacement

[old1951]

Well, I'm trying to get a handle on the new site format but can't seem to find any threads on changing the throttle cables (other than a listing of P/N under FAQ) I'm sure someone has been down this road ahead of me? I purchased the two new cables and '05 plastic throttle parts today. Was shown by my dealer how to modify the lower R/H handlebar plastic to allow cable entry like the '05's. Any words of wisdom? I've got the shop manual, a 6-pack and a free weekend! Past experience on this site has trained me to ask first as I know it can save a lot of foul words. Comments?

[JeffB]

You may want to try going to the BMWLT.net Archeive Forums and search from there. http://www.bmwlt.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?Cat= (http://www.bmwlt.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?Cat)=

-Jeff

[thillrh]

I just replaced the cables on my '01 a couple of weeks ago. I found it to be a real challenge to hook up the cable ends to the throttle, but following the advice of many others who have gone before me made it easier (see the archives).

I made the big mistake of pulling my throttle grip off without (even thinking of) disconnecting the heated grip wiring. Big FUBAR requiring that I order/install a new throttle grip. If I was doing it over, I would break off the old housing pieces and leave the grip right where it was.

In typical (for me) do-it-yourself fashion, I probably ended up doing the whole job two or three times by the time I finished 'cause I break things and/or put them back together in the wrong order, sometimes more than once - DOH! In the end I learn a lot more about the machine and how she is put together.

The new cables have much better action! My cruise control has never worked as well as it does now!

I found the old throttle grip tube (37k miles) had been rubbing hard on the end of the handle bar, rubbing on a bunch of bare metal. I sanded it all down real fine and smooth before installing the new grip (with a little silicone lubricant).

Much success to you.

[old1951]

Didn't find much interest regarding my inquiry on my pending throttle cable replacement (perhaps everyone already knows about it and I'm just a late comer to the issue)? But, thought I should share the results of my experience with installing the '05 throttle cable conversion to my '02 LT with 42K miles on it.

Stating that THE RESULTS ARE FANTASTIC is an understatement! The bike rides like a different animal and you would swear you gained 10 HP. It really is amazing how you get used to a suttle detrimental change over time and convince yourself that it really isn't all that bad (but wonder why your thumb and wrist ache after each ride)? My new problem is keeping the beast near the posted limit. It now begs to be red lined in every gear and accelerates with such ease that I'm going to put off my plans to install a Rhinewest chip!

BMW provided all the correct parts (2 new cables and the handlebar conversion parts) required but stopped short of providing any installation guidance. By now I've learned not to expect much support for the do it yourselfers. However, the parts man was kind enough to walk me over to a new '05 LT and show me where to cut a hole in my R/H lower handlebar plastic cover which minimizes the bends on the new cables.
Beyond that it was just me and my handy shop manual. The installation is not overly tough, but does take time (8+ hours). I may have taken more time than required, but it was my first time removing the fuel injection rail.
The manual says to remove the air box too, but I found that unnecessary since removing the F.I. rail provides plenty of access.

The changing of the cables and the handlebar parts was straight forward enough, just go slow as there are many small screws holding the handlebar control assembly together and it's easy to overlook one or two. Installing the new '05 twist grip linkage parts is quite easy, it's getting the '02 parts off that takes time. I don't know what BMW charges to do this job, but I'm sure I saved myself $400+. What was even more satisfying was the fantastic results. I was very conscious of checking the bad cable during disassembly as I wanted to find the culprit that caused the original problem. Once the old cables were removed they felt as smooth as the new ones? This was a concerned because it caused me to have few moments of self doubt that maybe I'd gone through all this work for nothing. The true cause of the problem appears not to be the cables as much as the old twist grip linkage design. Apparently as it ages and wears the friction increase becomes worse and worse.

For anyone having a throttle twist grip that appears too stiff or does not snap closed quickly (like mine), I can't recommend this modification enough.
The change can make you fall in love with the LT all over again!

I can't recall ever having to change throttle cables on any other bike I've owned in the past and some will say this is just another bad thing against the LT. But, on the other hand, I've never owned any other motorcycle that has given me more overall satisfaction than the LT does. In fact, at 42K miles I feel I've just got the bike broken in and accessorised to my liking.

If you even think you have a tight throttle problem and you have a bike older than an '05, don't walk, RUN to your dealer and spend the $130 in parts for this conversion. In the end you will find that old zing that the LT had when it was new.

Note: I'd didn't take pictures of my installation, but I'm happy to discuss the process with anyone who has questions.

[wallyo]

I have a 2000 which I am sure would benefit from this change. Do you happen to have the part numbers of everthing you installed?

[RoyvL]

Is the procedure described the same as a dealer would do or have you made any modifications? I am not confident of tackling this myself.

[DaveDragon]

I'm getting new throttle cables the weekend of the 15th. along with a new rear rotor and a new stock windscreen.
At 76,000 miles Dusty Miller of Miller BMW Motorcycles of Tallahassee got BMW to warranty the parts and I will cover the labor. :)
The throttle cables were replaced under warranty once before when the LT was new but they have always been stiff.
The rear rotor was replaced under warranty and rattles like a 67 Knucklehead.
The windscreen keeps fogging up.

[Jinks]

I'm getting new throttle cables the weekend of the 15th. along with a new rear rotor and a new stock windscreen.
At 76,000 miles Dusty Miller of Miller BMW Motorcycles of Tallahassee got BMW to warranty the parts and I will cover the labor. :)
The throttle cables were replaced under warranty once before when the LT was new but they have always been stiff.
The rear rotor was replaced under warranty and rattles like a 67 Knucklehead.
The windscreen keeps fogging up.

Dave,
If you don't mind, how 'bout lettin' us know what the labor costs you. I talked to Daytona BMW the other day about the cables & rear rotor. At 39,000 miles they didn't actually laugh at me, but they didn't make any effort to help either.

I priced the parts, & with a Chicago type discount I don't mind payin' for the hardware & doin' the install myself. I suspect the costs will balance out, but would like to compair to your labor cost.

[DaveDragon]

Will do! ;)

[old1951]

Wally,

The part numbers for the '05 Throttle Cable mod I made are as follows;
a) Throttle Cable: 32737694490 ($40.19)
b) Acc. Cable: 32737694491 ($56.79)
c) Twist Grip Mod Kit: 32727691990 ($24.19)

Look at the lower plastic cover on the throttle side handlebar of an '05 LT to see the new exit hole you need to cut in your existing plastic. This hole turned out to be directly under the swedged area of the front brake hose that runs down the throttle side handlebar. Good luck! I think you will be amazed at the positive results?

Vern Shrader

[RoyvL]

Good luck! I think you will be amazed at the positive results?

Vern Shrader

Well, is that an understatement! Got the bike back from the dealer yesterday - WOW - its a new machine. If you haven't done this - do it now!

[c00k1e]

Is this something that can be done to a '99 model?
If so, can someone post the details up of how to do this?

[luke_connolly]

OK You've convinced me...I just ordered the parts from Chicago BMW. I guess i have a winter project now.

[sanjaun2]

Just ordered my kit as well, fuel and air filter while I have her all tore up.

[Tbird]

I think I'm gonna dogpile in on this too (easy decision since the bike is already wide open getting a lot of other work done on it).

QUESTION:

Can somebody with a 05' take a couple of digi-pics of the cable routing and exit point for all of us to see. I'm far away from a dealership...and they usually don't stock the LT anyway.

Mucho Appreciation !

[Gino]

I took these: http://www.bmwlt.net/ubbthreads/showthreaded.php?Cat=&Board=K1200LT&Number=275940&page=&view=&sb=&o= from my '02... I believe that the '05s are the same because the replacement handlebar cover was an '05 color....

[Tbird]

THANKS Gino,

Those pics are EXACTLY what I was looking for!!! :)

I assume the routing of the cables is the same as the old...past the new insertion point in the handlbar cover...Se?

Big thanks again, Tom

[Tbird]

I just ordered the parts from Chicago BMW. (chicagobmwmotorcycle.com/2frames/2frame.html)

Here are the particulars:

327 276 919 90 Repair Kit S 1 $19.20
327 376 944 90 Throttle S 1 $32.00
327 376 944 91 Acc. Cable S 1 $45.20
Shipping $ 7.00
Total $103.40

Not bad if the improvement is as good as y'all are saying it is!:)

[Gino]

"As far as I know" the routing is the same - I had the work done under warranty and have not been in since.

I believe the only thing that has changed is the routing off of the grip and into the handlebar space to avoid sharp bends.

[_Warren_]

Geez thanks a lot everyone... After reading this thread last night my throttle seems even stiffer than ever this morning! :p

[DaveDragon]

Can the lower cable housing cover be replaced after the new cables are installed?

The reason I ask is Miller BMW is replacing my cables this Saturday.

[Lynn_Keen]

I'm getting new throttle cables the weekend of the 15th. along with a new rear rotor and a new stock windscreen.

The rear rotor was replaced under warranty and rattles like a 67 Knucklehead.
The windscreen keeps fogging up.

Dave, is BMW covering the cost of a new rotor and windscreen? Seem like that would be highly unusual.

[DaveDragon]

Dave,
If you don't mind, how 'bout lettin' us know what the labor costs you. I talked to Daytona BMW the other day about the cables & rear rotor. At 39,000 miles they didn't actually laugh at me, but they didn't make any effort to help either.

I priced the parts, & with a Chicago type discount I don't mind payin' for the hardware & doin' the install myself. I suspect the costs will balance out, but would like to compair to your labor cost.

Got the new throttle cables with the 05 housing mod and new rear rotor and wind screen don Saturday.
They charged me $320.00 labor @ 66.00 per hour. BMW covered the parts.

I know they didn't touch the engine but with the throttle being so light now it feels more powerful.

The rear rotor makes zero noise, the old one previously replaced under warranty rattled like wooden wheeled Rickshaw carrying a load of cymbals down a cobblestone street.

I once again realized the enormous value of the Laminar Lip.
I have had it on for two years now. They replaced the OEM windscreen so I put the lip in the trunk for the ride home.
250 miles of wind noise and helmet buffeting instead of the relative quiet and calm created by the Laminar Lip.
I'll be mounting it today as well as doing the perm wiring of the 376C and removing the SPIII wiring.

May even remove the XM Radio and Terk XM Billy Club from the trunk mount :).

[DaveDragon]

Dave, is BMW covering the cost of a new rotor and windscreen? Seem like that would be highly unusual.

Yes, both had been replaced under warranty before. This time I covered the labor they covered the parts.

[JPSpen]

If the new cables didn't seem any better than the old ones..... can the old ones be reused or are the ends different...??????
If the problem is in the twist grip assb could that be just changed and the cables left alone???

Inquiring mind wants to know.

Thanks

John

[DaveDragon]

The cables are different as well as the housing. The adjustment screws that lengthen/shorten the cables are different.
Don't know if the old cables will work with the new lower housing cover.

[Jinks]

Dave, thanks for the report. I'm glad to hear the cables work so well, they'll go on my "to do" list. Did the new rotor look any different than the old one, or is it just a replacement that may loosen up in the future?

[DaveDragon]

Looks just like the one that was replaced the first time.

The spring clips that dampen the noise/vibration and allow the rotor to float were completely gone on the bad rotor.

[Tbird]

This thread has gotten a little off topic...but I thought I'd set it back right.

I finished swapping out the old style cables for the new...and I agree with all the other feedback here. The twist action is smoother, free-er, and it's snaps back like never before. Now I just gotta ride it to appreciate the difference.

I'm certain that the problem is not the cables themselves...as my old cables, once freed from the hand grip apparatus are nearly as smooth sliding as the new. It's the plastic runners the cables run through (and groove into) on the handlebar that are the culpret. The new ones run through a metal sleve and significantly reduce the friction componant.

You can't buy just the new handlebar throttle assembly and use the old cables. The ends (handlebar end) are completely different and thus your old cables have no way of attaching to the throttle grip.

This is definitely a worthwhile mod to make to any pre '05 bike. You probably *THINK* your throttle is just fine...but I'll guarantee you it's not as smooth as it'll be after you do this swap.:thumb:

[meese]

We swapped out Brian's throttle cables last weekend, and they are a much better design.

We replaced the throttle part first, and I was able to get the old plastic piece off without removing the grip. Basically, there is a small plastic loop that goes around the handlebar, which I carefully snipped with a pair of wire cutters. The hardest part was finding all the small screws to get the bits off.

We also managed to get the lower ends attached without removing the throttle rail. I sure wish I'd had a pair of hemostats for that, but all I had was years of working on BMX bikes.

If I was doing it again, I'd do all the lower end stuff first and the grip last. This leaves you more play as you rotate the throttle butterflies back and forth to get to the lower ends hooked up. It also helps if you do things in the right order.

Run the new cables alongside the old ones. Remove two screws that hold the cruise control stop switch in place. Rotate the throttle butterflies and unhook the top cable. Unhook the bottom cable and remove it from the cruise control switch bracket.

Now hook up the new bottom cable. Hook up the upper cable, then hook up the cruise control stop switch as before. Replace the cruise control switch bracket.

Now hook up the upper end. Make sure that you've routed the new cables through the oblong hole you made in the lower handlebar cover. Take off all the old plastic bits. Put on the larger inside new plastic bit. Hook up the upper cable ends and hold them in place while putting on the new plastic cover. Put the handlebar controls back together with all the little screws. Remove the old cables entirely.

Note that the throttle should turn smoothly and freely, and should snap back when let go. There should also be some play there, more than you may think is needed, to give room for the cruise control switch to work properly. We found that the cables were free when the bars were full right or centered, and stiffened up some when full left (due to the cables pushing against the fork leg). This isn't a problem when riding unless the cables are so tight that you can't turn the grip.

I only wish that we'd taken lots of pics.

Overall, this is a much better design, and is worth upgrading if you have the older setup, or if you notice any throttle stiffness or wrist pain when riding. My '02 had the cables replaced under warranty a couple of years ago, and they seem to work fine, so I'm leaving them alone. If I had any problem at all with the, then I wouldn't hesitate to change them out to the '05 design.

[Letsgoplay]

Just ordered my kit as well, fuel and air filter while I have her all tore up.

Brian:

How did your throttle cable replacement go? I'm home now in Olympia with my bike torn down, but my return cable broke in New Mexico last week.

Any tips?

Keith

[bigbear]

If the new cables didn't seem any better than the old ones..... can the old ones be reused or are the ends different...??????
If the problem is in the twist grip assb could that be just changed and the cables left alone???

Inquiring mind wants to know.

Thanks

John

John,
the problem is in the 90 degree transition piece between the twist grip and the cables. The old design had a molded housing that bolted to the twist grip brake reservoir assembly. This housing is what appears to wear, collect grit etc. The new design have a 90 degree bend molded onto the end of them. The two styles of cables are not interchangeable. I think there are some pictures posted in HOW section showing how the new design cables are routed and where to put the opening in the lower handlebar cover to accommodate them.

Hope this helps a little.

Roy

[Dock]

Just replaced the cables on my 02 k1200lt....at 24,000 miles I cant believe it needed new cables already, but it did. Throttle was smoother afterward but still more effort than I think it should have. So on two of the carb return springs I moved it from the tab that it hooks to to the synchronizer bracket whick is aprox 1/2 inch which made the tension lighter but still enough to make it close with a clicking sound when opened slightly.........Will try to include pics of the carbs....and new cable compared to old cables....You'll have to look closely at the carb spring cause i dont know how to put arrows on the pic.......................Ok I can't attach pic i get an error........

[Schweintechnik]

I only wish that we'd taken lots of pics.


Ken, I swapped my cables out and did the grip upgrade while I had my throttle bodies off replacing some seals & hoses. Thus, the lower end of the job was entirely different, but the upper end was the same.

Anyway, I took lots of photos of the upper end steps, and they're posted here (http://picasaweb.google.com/dtnicks/LTThrottleCableReplacement).

Dave

PS: Eventually, when we have a wiki, this would just be an update to the existing doc ;)

[Phil_Blackstone]

After replacing the cables the motor would not throttle down with out twisting the grip (top forward) which slows the motor
by the other cable.
The throttle cable has some play .
I am trying to figure out why this happened without any chages other than the cables.
Anybody got any ideas?

[Schweintechnik]

After replacing the cables the motor would not throttle down with out twisting the grip (top forward) which slows the motor
by the other cable.
The throttle cable has some play .
I am trying to figure out why this happened without any chages other than the cables.
Anybody got any ideas?

Phil,

Did you check the throttle function immediately after the new cables were connected at each end & before you put everything back together? If you get binding/sticking at that point, then I would suspect one of the cables is pinched in the grip parts - it's not too hard to get the throttle cable ends out of position when putting the cover plate on the grip.

If it works well after the throttle grip is reassembled, but then starts binding after the rest of the bike is together, you need to check your cable routing. There is plenty of opportunity to pinch or bend the cables enough to induce excess friction. Cable tie location and fit (loose to barely snug) is critical. Also, you need to be careful that the throttle cables do not get caught between the left air duct and the left upper fairing panel. And make sure you don't get the cables too cramped up in the handlebar trim. Did you buy the new lower trim with the hole or cut your own?

The service bulletin below details the routing you need to follow. Hopefully this will fix the issue - let us know how it turns out.

[OldRed]

I have a 2001 and need to take this task on. It has 50K and just had the 48K service before I bought it.

Question; Is there any other work that I could/should do while replacing the cables and have everything opened up? It had a coolant flush but not a brake flush during the 48K (or visa versa, I have to check the service record)

[Phil_Blackstone]

Hey Old REd,
Good to here from you . I posted that about 6 months ago and you are the first to send a reply.
The cables and adapter kit will cost you about $140. The old part number on the cables no longer is in use. Pay attention to the routing of the cables as you take them off. I had to take off both sides of plastic. Mark with painters tape the long and short screws . You can us colors or just mark the tape and put it on the plastic where the screw goes. It was easier to take off
the fuel injectors to remove and replace the cables. Also take fan tube off and it takes a little force to get it lined up right putting it back on, Make sure the right screws go back in the right holes. I messed up and put a longer on and it was hitting the fan. Get your new spark plugs also.
Have some of you club members come over to help and learn how to do it. Call it a "Tect day" Have some food and drink and you will have help.
I got the instructions from a shop manual (CD)
Took me about 6 hours, by myself and fumbling through it.
Good Luck and God Bless,
Phil