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View Full Version : What's involved in 600 mile service?


Effjay
Aug 8th, 2007, 5:53 pm
I'm buying a near-new 2007 full-zoot R1200RT on Saturday with just 514 miles on the clock. I've already negotiated a deal and have deposit applied, but the 600 mile service has not yet been performed. I know fluid replacement, head torque, valve clearance check are all likely involved. The sales manager states they don't do this service at 500 miles - typically recommending between 600 and 1000 miles elapsed. I will have 600+ miles on it by the time I reach home and hate to then have to immediately schedule an appointment with my own local dealer for this work with associated hassles. I'm tempted to have the selling dealer do it now. What do you guys recommend and why? How much does this service cost (I forgot to ask)?

Thanks!
Jeff

BUGKILLER
Aug 8th, 2007, 7:02 pm
I'm buying a near-new 2007 full-zoot R1200RT on Saturday with just 514 miles on the clock. I've already negotiated a deal and have deposit applied, but the 600 mile service has not yet been performed. I know fluid replacement, head torque, valve clearance check are all likely involved. The sales manager states they don't do this service at 500 miles - typically recommending between 600 and 1000 miles elapsed. I will have 600+ miles on it by the time I reach home and hate to then have to immediately schedule an appointment with my own local dealer for this work with associated hassles. I'm tempted to have the selling dealer do it now. What do you guys recommend and why? How much does this service cost (I forgot to ask)?

Thanks!
Jeff

It's a big fancy expensive oil change. I'll dig out the scheduled maintenance list and post it for you.

Effjay
Aug 8th, 2007, 7:10 pm
Thanks, B-K...

I'm not sure if mechanical things have loosened enough at 500 miles to achieve "settled" valve clearances and torque values. If this is so, it would be best for me to change fluids myself at home and then have "official" work done by BMW after rolling more miles.

Jeff

DRothermel
Aug 8th, 2007, 7:17 pm
I'd wait until 600-800 miles for the service. Actually I was just short of a 1000 when I had mine done. In a nutshell, the 600 mile service includes, valve adjustment, engine oil and filter change, final drive fluid change, check OBC for any fault codes, sync the throttle bodies and some other misl. equipment checks, lights, levers, etc. Mine cost $208.00.

BUGKILLER
Aug 8th, 2007, 7:25 pm
Here ya go.

EDIT: Sorry, but you cannot post copyrighted material.

BUGKILLER
Aug 8th, 2007, 7:31 pm
I'd wait until 600-800 miles for the service. Actually I was just short of a 1000 when I had mine done. In a nutshell, the 600 mile service includes, valve adjustment, engine oil and filter change, final drive fluid change, check OBC for any fault codes, sync the throttle bodies and some other misl. equipment checks, lights, levers, etc. Mine cost $208.00.

Valves are done at 12k service. Only fluids and check list at 600.

Undecided
Aug 8th, 2007, 8:20 pm
At 600+ miles: Oil and filter, valve check and adjust, head retorque (the only time it is done) Throttle body sync, and final drive fluid replacement (the only time it is done). If there are updates to BMSK and/or ZFE they are done when the GT-1 is used to check for stored faults etc.

Cheers,

Effjay
Aug 8th, 2007, 10:09 pm
Thanks for the feedback, guys. Your concensus matches the dealer recommendation and so it will be for my new bike. I'm quite stoked (is that term passe'?) for Saturday to arrive. This was the 3rd R1200RT I looked at compared to buying a brand new 2007 or waiting for 2008 units to arrive. This is the best situation for me, being fully loaded (everything except ASC and alarm), just 514 miles, no blemishes plus worthwhile add-ons (smaller BMW top box which I prefer for solo use, Suburban peg lowering kit and matching bar risers in combo with standard height saddle). If I can't get comfortable on this thing, I'm in trouble! ;) I'll be saving thousands while getting virtually a brand new bike!

Many motorcycles owned over my 35+ years of riding, but this will be only the 2nd BMW since I took delivery of that new R100RS in Munich in 1981 - yeah I'm a Boomer!

Jeff

Ted Shred
Aug 9th, 2007, 1:59 am
Valves are done at 12k service. Only fluids and check list at 600.

NOT TRUE.

Valves are done at 600 and every 6k on a boxer motor.

Also, it is very important that the 4 head bolts are re-torqued at the 1st service...

BUGKILLER
Aug 9th, 2007, 10:20 am
NOT TRUE.

Valves are done at 600 and every 6k on a boxer motor.

Also, it is very important that the 4 head bolts are re-torqued at the 1st service...

You are right...I was in LT mode. :D

DRothermel
Aug 9th, 2007, 10:46 am
Jeff:

Congrats on your new ride. You're going to love it. It's a great bike! I took delivery of mine on 5/21 and just turned 12,000 miles last week. Setting a bike up for one's comfort seems to be a very personal deal. For me, the stock position of the bars is just fine. Same with the footrests, plus I wouldn't want to lose lean angle, as I tend to use the bigger share of it's 46 degrees on a regular basis. I big issue for me was the OE seat. It was a butt buster after about a 100 miles. It seems most people either love or hate the BMW OE seats. I bought a leather Corbin seat and that took care of my comfort issue. Did an 800 mile day last week coming back from CO. A piece of cake. At any rate, enjoy the new bike. Dick

Effjay
Aug 9th, 2007, 10:59 am
Dick,

I'm going to try the lowered pegs since they are already there from the prior owner but will remove if I start dragging toes. :eek: My initial test ride on a 2007 RT with ESA indicated superior cornering clearance compared to my FJR. I don't want to compromise that. I tend to ride "briskly" through local SoCal mountains! Same goes for the bar risers. If they help my arthritic wrist, I'll keep em - if not, they'll go. We'll see how I fare on the OEM saddle. I do use a sheepskin on the rider section of the FJR and wear bikey shorts on longer rides.

Jeff

motoguy128
Aug 10th, 2007, 10:35 pm
the first service is probably the most important. One main item is changing the final drive fluid.

I unfortunately had a seal fail 20 miles after my 600 mile service. It covered the whole rear wheel, fender, and half the side case with final drive fluid. Did the dealer cause this? OR just bad luck? It's a very reputable dealer with great customer service, but I think they are trying to cover their a** a little. Who knows but I'm trailering the bike back there this weekend.

My 600 mile service was not a good one since the bike ended up worse than when I took it in.