View Full Version : Chrome Saddlebag Trim Replacement
pickerbiker
Jun 20th, 2007, 10:39 pm
Need some help from the experts. I am replacing the right side chrome saddlebag trim (yeh, dropped it but that's another story) and cannot get the old one removed. Any ideas? I tried heating it but that didn't seem to have any effect. Thanks!
Chockkicker
Jun 20th, 2007, 10:56 pm
Need some help from the experts. I am replacing the right side chrome saddlebag trim (yeh, dropped it but that's another story) and cannot get the old one removed. Any ideas? I tried heating it but that didn't seem to have any effect. Thanks!
Heat helps to loosen the glue, use a heat gun not a hair dryer, start at the front, a strong small wire see sawed back and forth under the strip while some one pulls on the strip and it should come off. It is almost a two man job I found. Good glue was used on those things.
pickerbiker
Jun 20th, 2007, 11:09 pm
I was trying to use a hair dryer, which just doesn't get hot enough. I'll get a heat gun tomorrow and try your suggestions. Thanks.
dwillie
Jun 20th, 2007, 11:10 pm
Heat helps to loosen the glue, use a heat gun not a hair dryer, start at the front, a strong small wire see sawed back and forth under the strip while some one pulls on the strip and it should come off. It is almost a two man job I found. Good glue was used on those things.
This is good advice. I know as I just went through it. I didn't use a heat gun as none was available to me. Just be patient, and keep sawing back and forth, pull on the strip, and saw some more. It takes a while because as stated, the old glue is tough. I took Ron's (Kontour) advise and searched out 3M super strength moulding tape at the auto store to hold the new piece in place. Man (!!) that stuff is tough. Put it on carefully though, as I believe it will stay where you first put it. I also remember reading if you use a heat gun, heat from the inside of the side case as you could mistakenly damage the paint from the front side. dwillie.
grifscoots
Jun 20th, 2007, 11:12 pm
I'm not real sure I'd use wire, either. Dental floss. Good LT hygiene.
monmon2
Jun 21st, 2007, 4:08 am
Just replaced the right side trim on mine this week. All you need is a hair dryer to apply the heat on the inside of the door. I used a flat blade screwdriver on the front point of the trim as I applied the heat. As the double stick tape lets go from the heat the screwdriver can be slid under the trim. Continue to heat the entire length and the trim piece will lift off easily. Entire project took less than five minutes.
Monte
Kerrville
drifter36
Jun 21st, 2007, 8:15 am
I remember reading a thread where someone applied someone with the saddlebag open, looped some fishing line around one end of the trim, applied a 5 lb weight and let it hang down and then applied heat from the inside. In a few minutes the trim began to pull away.
Might have been in the HOW, can't remember.
zippy_gg
Jun 21st, 2007, 10:22 am
...of course there is also the BMR option...
http://www.bmrproducts.com/proddetail.php?prod=060_SCT&cat=10
Reid
Jun 21st, 2007, 10:35 am
I think the BMR guards are a MUST...that chrome is way too expensive.
I found Weed Eater trimmer line to be ideal for sawing through the old adhesive. MAKE DARNED SURE YOU REMOVE ALL THE OLD ADHESIVE AND CLEAN IT WELL WITH ALCOHOL OR SOMETHING SIMILAR!! I replaced my right side trim using the pre-applied adhesive that came on the trim and lost it while riding...I was careless in not removing all the gunk. Fortunately, I retraced my route the next day and found it reasonably undamaged 30 miles north of Soo Falls. LUCKY DAY!
RonKMiller
Jun 21st, 2007, 10:35 am
This is good advice. I know as I just went through it. I didn't use a heat gun as none was available to me. Just be patient, and keep sawing back and forth, pull on the strip, and saw some more. It takes a while because as stated, the old glue is tough. I took Ron's (Kontour) advise and searched out 3M super strength moulding tape at the auto store to hold the new piece in place. Man (!!) that stuff is tough. Put it on carefully though, as I believe it will stay where you first put it. I also remember reading if you use a heat gun, heat from the inside of the side case as you could mistakenly damage the paint from the front side. dwillie.
Just a side note that there are different thicknesses of the 3M tape, and thinner is better since the trim will be closer to the case - like OEM - when mounted. The thin stuff is hard to find.
As an alternative, you can get 3M Outdoor rated tape at any hardware store. It is a bit thicker, so the trim will stick out perhaps 1/8 inch (the size of a coat hanger wire) from the case, a barely noticeable difference. 3M Outdoor tape is grey with a red backing. Don't use the indoor stuff (white) or you'll get to do the whole job over again in a month or two.
Clean both mounting surfaces completely with alcohol, then clean again. Cut the tape lengthwise into 2 strips and position them the entire length of the trim. Don't put in on the most reward section where the tab is since it will act as a shim and make it difficult for the rest of the tape to maintain full contact - not needed there since the tab will hold it in place.
When you reinstall the trim start at the back where there is a locating tab, then push the trim forward and down at the same time using a lot of force. It is a good idea to have someone on the other side of the bike resisting your push, or you may get to do the opposite side too! ;)
Reid
Jun 21st, 2007, 12:49 pm
When you reinstall the trim start at the back where there is a locating tab, then push the trim forward and down at the same time using a lot of force. It is a good idea to have someone on the other side of the bike resisting your push, or you may get to do the opposite side too! ;)
Wondering if using some heat on the inside of the case would aid in the new adhesive's bonding.
Chockkicker
Jun 21st, 2007, 6:35 pm
I'm not real sure I'd use wire, either. Dental floss. Good LT hygiene.
We are not talking bobwire :>) here, I used .032 steel safety wire with each end wrapped to a screw driver, worked just fine. Did get the heat gun a little hot and almost melted the inside of case door.
RonKMiller
Jun 21st, 2007, 8:03 pm
Wondering if using some heat on the inside of the case would aid in the new adhesive's bonding.
The temperature range of 3M VHB (very high bond) adhesive is -40 to 300F :eek:
;)
Probably would not hurt to lightly sand the case with some garnet paper (does not leave any residue behind like regular sanding paper) to increase surface area for the adhesive to "grab". Thorough rinsing after sanding with water and then alcohol would be a must - and maybe a wee bit for the mechanic too! :D
Offwego
Jun 21st, 2007, 8:15 pm
Replaced the right side trim tonight. First tried the heat and floss but neeeded some floss for after dinner. Then tried heat and 5# weight. That started to help, but I felt I was going to melt the side case. Then tried heat,weight, and some Jack Daniels and pulled that sucker off! I think it was the Jack that did it. At least then, when I grabbed the hot trim I didn't feel the burn! That was easy. Getting the glue off took an hour. Tried Goo off, alcohol and finally just rubbed with a rag. I used the rubber trim from BMR products. Looks fantastic! Now for that dreaded 12k service!
pickerbiker
Jun 22nd, 2007, 1:27 am
Thanks to everyone for the great suggestions. Heat gun, thin wire, shot of Jack...sucker came right off! This site is awesome.
StLHeadake
Jun 22nd, 2007, 12:48 pm
I have (and have had) the replacement trim for my bike for nearly a year. Haven't gotten around to replacing it the fix didn't seem obvious, but I figured they were glued on. I wasn't sure how to go about removing them without damaging the cases. Now I know.
What I am wondering though, I have a tube of 3M Weatherstrip adhesive that we use in the body shop to apply auto emblems, weather stripping, and whatever. This stuff seems to work fine in that application, has anyone tried it here?
I really don't want my trim sticking out because of the foam tape that's all. Has anyone tried it?
Offwego
Jun 22nd, 2007, 1:57 pm
My replacement Chrome came with the 3M tape applied inside. I just peeled and stuck. Remember to start at the back. And with that additional BMR Products rubber strip on the outside it really shows off the chrome and matches the front tip bars. Now if I could just keep the tires on the ground!
RonKMiller
Jun 22nd, 2007, 3:21 pm
I have (and have had) the replacement trim for my bike for nearly a year. Haven't gotten around to replacing it the fix didn't seem obvious, but I figured they were glued on. I wasn't sure how to go about removing them without damaging the cases. Now I know.
What I am wondering though, I have a tube of 3M Weatherstrip adhesive that we use in the body shop to apply auto emblems, weather stripping, and whatever. This stuff seems to work fine in that application, has anyone tried it here?
I really don't want my trim sticking out because of the foam tape that's all. Has anyone tried it?
Won't work - it is designed for (rubber) weatherstripping. 3M makes about a dozen different types of pressure sensitive tapes for applying emblems, trim, body panels, etc.
StLHeadake
Jun 22nd, 2007, 3:41 pm
Thanks Ron, I'll go look for the thin stuff. Really, FIRST I am going to look in the trim and see if there is tape already there. It's been so long since I have looked at them, there may very well be tape already there.
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