Loctite or not?

[Offwego]

Since no one near me is having a Tech Session, I'm going it alone. So, after I strip the plastic to do the 12k service, do I need any Loctite for any of the filter or fluid changes? If so, which one is best? I'm doing the whole enchilada, brakes and clutch. I maybe parting her out if I can't figure out how to make 'er run again!

[Jabrown]

I just did my 12k and I can't remember anything that even needed loctite, and if there was ...Whoops :o

[Offwego]

I just did my 12k and I can't remember anything that even needed loctite, and if there was ...Whoops :o


Did you check your valves?

[Dick]

Did you check your valves?
No Loctite needed during a valve check. And I don't recall needing any Loctite while doing a 6K or a 12K service.

If you don't have a checklist already, here is one as a .pdf attachment. Good luck on your DIY service.

[jzeiler]

Craig,


The only place you need loctite for routine maintenance is the bolts that hold the center stand pivots (blue). The ball studs for the shift linkage have a dry red compound so you may want to renew that with some fresh blue (I wouldn't use the red here as it would make getting the old bit out difficult if it broke).

There are some tender torques to watch out for on the cylinder head cover (valve check) and the oil filter cover screws.

Hope you have the manual handy for this as it points out the areas you need loctite and of course the torques.

[Offwego]

I've got the Clymer and the BMW CD manuals, torque wrenches, oil filter wrench Torx and allen head wrenches and sockets and a big ass hammer! I just need a local expert, but don't seem to have any down here at the end of the US. The closest is probaby Lean Kean, Dave Dragon or Dandiver as I'm in Miami. I'll be the local expert soon!

[Jabrown]

Did you check your valves?

Well Duh.. it is the most important thing on the list. I am not a very fart smeller but I wasn't born yesterday :D

[Zotter]

Strap wrench.

Get yourself a strap wrench from your local plubming/Ace hardware or similar. You'll need it to get the "Union Nut" off the bottom of the fuel tank so you can change the filter.

Also, get some 'screw type' hose clamps to put on (2nd choice), or better yet, get yourself one of those clamp on high pressure fuel hose setups so you can approximate the OEM clamps. I think NAPA carries such a kit.

[Benzbuilder]

Get the 5/16 i.d. size fuel injection clamps. I got the wrong size, luckily John (jzeiler) had the right size.

[grifscoots]

I'd have some red loctite around, simply because it tastes so good.

[rdwalker]

No Loctite needed during a valve check. And I don't recall needing any Loctite while doing a 6K or a 12K service.

Damn. Now you're telling me?

So it was supposed to be grease and not Loctite? Gotta start wearing my reading glasses in the garage... :rotf:

Of course, nothing is so much fun as removing the 160Nm-torqued nut and pin holding the final drive, all covered with Loctite by PO. At least it was blue, not red.

On the other hand, on my Kawasakis, just to make you guys feel better, Loctite is in-use just as a set of sockets. Without it, most fasteners start popping off after a few day's riding.

[McAllister]

If you take the windscreen off for any reason you may need some blue loctite for the screws. The skid plate bolts in the way of the transmission drain have been mentioned ( and the wire bracket bolt for the exhaust). The only other place I can think of would be just a little bit of blue on the small screw that holds the reverser knob on the shaft.

[zaphod]

If you take the windscreen off for any reason you may need some blue loctite for the screws.
IIRC you should not use locktite on the windscreen screws, especially with OEM shield. It can react with the plastic and cause cracks around the holes.

[dshealey]

IIRC you should not use locktite on the windscreen screws, especially with OEM shield. It can react with the plastic and cause cracks around the holes.

That is absolutely correct! BMW had a service bulletin out on that in 2000 I think. At first they said to use blue Loctite on the windshield screws, then discovered this is a BIG no no! People who put Loctite on them ended up with spider web cracking around the screw holes. BMW now says to use new screws that come with the dry type pre-applied screw lock on them. I never used new screws though, just occasionally checked them for tightness. You have to be careful not to over tighten them, or you can crack the shield from too much force.

The Loctite website states that most grades should not be used in close proximity to most plastics.

[Ted]

That is absolutely correct! BMW had a service bulletin out on that in 2000 I think. At first they said to use blue Loctite on the windshield screws, then discovered this is a BIG no no! People who put Loctite on them ended up with spider web cracking around the screw holes. BMW now says to use new screws that come with the dry type pre-applied screw lock on them. I never used new screws though, just occasionally checked them for tightness. You have to be careful not to over tighten them, or you can crack the shield from too much force.

The Loctite website states that most grades should not be used in close proximity to most plastics.

This phenomenon also occurs when attaching face guards to batting helmets - even more severe - the helmet virtually disintegrated around the screw holes!

[McAllister]

Yes, I had forgotten to mention to use the dry strip loctite rather than the the liquid. And very carefully inserting the screws to not dislodge the locker and using a very low torque, 2 NM I believe. I went back to using a thread locker because I was always finding the screws were working loose.

Thanks Dave.