View Full Version : '99 radio into an AutoCom?
parishollow
Nov 13th, 2005, 6:11 pm
How can get my radio/cassett player to connect to my AutoCom? I realize I will most likely have to find and tap into wires but has someone done this and can give me some directions.
Thanks for the help.
CharlieVT
Nov 13th, 2005, 7:47 pm
Autocom sells an impedence matching device that you splice into rear speaker wiring under the seat. The impedence matching device then plugs into the Autocom. You will probably get directions, wire colors, etc. from Autocom but that info is also in the archives somewhere.
There is an optional switch that allows turning on or off the rear speakers or you can just leave them disconnected.
Use the bike's radio fade control to turn down the front speakers and then you have all bike's audio going into the Autocom.
Works good, been using that system for years.
Keith
Nov 13th, 2005, 8:37 pm
I bought the "LT kit" with my autocom and got the harness Charlie mentioned.
I tapped into the harness to the rear speakers "upstream" of the connector to the topbox, That way if you ditch the box you don't have to reconfigure the com. The color codes for the speakerwires came with the autocom kit IIRC. HTH.
beemerlt
Nov 14th, 2005, 1:27 am
I tapped into the harness to the rear speakers "upstream" of the connector to the topbox, That way if you ditch the box you don't have to reconfigure the com.
Autocom recommend splicing into the bike's rear speaker wires 'downstream' (top case side) rather than 'upstream' (radio side) of the multi-connector under the passenger's seat for two reasons:
(1) The installation procedure of their Part 67 suggests mounting the switch on the top case and tucking the excess wiring and ground loop isolator behind the left front top case panel (where the aux power socket is mounted). Autocom also recommend soldering their wires onto the bike's rear speaker wires. Soldering upstream would mean that the top case couldn't be removed without cutting wires. Soldering downstream makes top case removal easy, with no cutting required.
(2) Autocom connection requires you to cut two of the bike's rear speaker wires (to pins 6 & 8) and splice into two other wires (pins 7 & 9). If you mess up badly following their procedure, you'll only need to replace the wiring harness to the top case. If you decide not to follow their recommendation and make a mess of things, you're potentially looking at having to replace the entire bike wiring harness. That's two things I dislike about the Autocom setup: having to cut the bike's wires, and having to solder (I hate soldering).
Check the HoW (http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/faq.php?faq=how_index_1#faq_how_faq_accintercom) for more (f.3).
One tip: after you've made the Autocom-bike wiring connection but before applying the solder, put on your headset, switch on the ignition and play some music. Then shift the radio's balance control from the default central position (0) to full left or full right (-10/+10). There's a 50% chance you've got it reversed, as Autocom don't label their wires 'left' and 'right' channel. If you find it is reversed then just swap things around before you solder.
parishollow
Nov 14th, 2005, 8:01 am
Thanks for all your help, does'nt sound all that difficult.
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