Slave cylinder

[DanMartin]

I am once again trying to replace my slave cylinder. Ibbones and I tried a few months ago but were unable to break the large (30mm) nut on the left side lose. Today I managed to get the right side lose with a 1/2" air impact set on max (290 ft lb). It took awhile ..10-15 seconds of force. The left side will not come lose. I have heated it to at least 300 deg.F 4-5 times,used the air impact and a 3ft cheater on my breaker bar. With my neighbor steadying the bike and holding the socket on,I put at least 200 lbs of force at the end of the cheater.....nothing.

Dumb question: is this a left hand thread?

Dan Martin
Houston,Tx

[grahamw]

No - standard thread.

How I did mine: light cigarette, light blow torch then play blow torch over nut and surrounding area. Keep blow torch moving so there is no localised heat build up. While area is still hot try your breaker bar.

Good luck

[JPSpen]

I got mine loose by standing on the end of the 3' breaker bar..200 lbs..

Came loose with a loud and jarring "bang".

You might try some PB Blaster on it.. But if there's anything on there it's probably loctite or someting like that..

Look at this (http://www.bmwlt.com/gallery/showimage.php?i=1889&c=3)

Good luck...

John

[DanMartin]

Thanks for the suggestions. I tried several more times and just gave up and put it back together.

dan

[cccpastorjack]

I have gotten a lot of them loose. Some more difficult than others. Just a few suggestions:

1. I use a very high quality 24" long Snap On 1/2" Drive Breaker Bar and 30mm socket. The only reason I stress using Snap On, Mac or Matco is for the fit of the socket/tools and the strength/quality needed to do this TOUGH job right!

I am not paid by them. I do not work for them. I am not trying to be proud or anything else, but I promise the right tools make ALL the difference. If you don't have those brands, just make sure that whatever sockets and breaker bars you are using are of a good industrial quality and that they fit VERY well. YOU WILL POTENTIALLY FACE THE SAME PROBLEM ONCE YOU GET THE 30mm NUTS LOOSE WITH THE 14mm ONES INSIDE. AND THEY ARE MUCH MORE EASILY BROKEN OR ROUNDED OFF -- CREATING A MAJOR HEADACHE!!!

2. Along with those tools, I also use a 4-5 foot "cheater" (piece of very strong rigid pipe - I used to use a thinner walled one but it did not work well at all) over the end of the breaker bar. I choose to LIFT from the rear of the bike, because of the possiblity that the socket might shift a little and round off the nut if I were to stand on it. It has worked for others, just makes me a bit nervous. You want to keep the socket square while applying pressure.

3. Lift on the END of the "cheater" bar (for maximum leverage) and lift STEADY with a LOT of pressure. I choose not to be "herky-jerky" with my lifting, but very smooth and steady, applying lots of pressure -- again, I want the socket to stay very square on the nut to prevent rounding. I stress this, because the only thing worse than not being able to break that nut loose is breaking it or rounding it off. :eek: That would suck.

4. Please be just as careful careful with the 14mm nuts inside of the large one. One of them is a VERY high torque rating. Use a socket that fits VERY well and keep it square. List using the same procedure.

Just a question: When you removed the right one, did it have any signs of loctite on it? When reassembling, DON'T USE LOCTITE ON THESE FITTINGS...I don't care who says so. And I always take EXTRA care before reassembly to totally clean and lubricate those threads with a very thin oil too. Loctite isn't needed and actually scews the torque settings.

Hope this info helps. Let us know how it turns out.
BTW...I have two VERY high torque air impacts and they don't tend to work well, if at all in this application. Seemed strange to me, but they wouldn't budge mine. Keep that socket square and that 4-5 ft. cheater will do it!

[bustedknuckles]

I took the slave cylinder out of an LT today. Other than the loud bang as the lock nut came loose we had no problem. 2 ft. breaker bar, put quick pressure on it with one foot. Have you tried to tighten the lock nut just a little to get it moving? That will help sometimes. This technique works well with pipe plugs and brass fittings a well.

[DanMartin]

Thanks Jack and Steve.

I am using a Sears 18" bar and an ACE hardware socket.
I started out picking up on it out by the saddlebag,but the angle to the nut was more than I liked. I had the 3'cheater overlapping the wrench by 6" and could see a bend in the bar as I lifted. I switched around to the front with the cheater under the wing so it was a more perpendicular shot. Pushing down with at least 300 lbs of force did nothing.

The right side had no sign of Loctite.

My dealer was into it 3 years ago to replace the clutch.

[cccpastorjack]

Thanks Jack and Steve.

I am using a Sears 18" bar and an ACE hardware socket.
I started out picking up on it out by the saddlebag,but the angle to the nut was more than I liked. I had the 3'cheater overlapping the wrench by 6" and could see a bend in the bar as I lifted. I switched around to the front with the cheater under the wing so it was a more perpendicular shot. Pushing down with at least 300 lbs of force did nothing.

The right side had no sign of Loctite.

My dealer was into it 3 years ago to replace the clutch.


Thanks for the information Dan. I know how frustrating these things can be. Sometimes, it just helps to get a break (no pun intended). It is absolutely amazing how much energy it takes to break some of these things loose. Wish I were closer--I'd sure like to help. On mine, and several others, I couldn't get anywhere with a 3 foot cheater. Had to go to the 4-5 foot one and use every inch of leverage I could. I'm gonna pray that the next itme you try it, that sucker will break loose!

[ibbones]

I am once again trying to replace my slave cylinder. Ibbones and I tried a few months ago but were unable to break the large (30mm) nut on the left side lose.
Dan Martin
Houston,Tx

Dan, I am thinking that thing aint supposed to turn. I remember pushing on that bar and thought the concrete driveway was going to break before the nut came loose.
How about the heat gun thingy??? That should that loosen it up a bit.

[DanMartin]

Dan, I am thinking that thing aint supposed to turn. I remember pushing on that bar and thought the concrete driveway was going to break before the nut came loose.
How about the heat gun thingy??? That should that loosen it up a bit.
Used the heat gun at least 5 times.Got it to around 300 deg. Tried it again last night with my dad here. You know "dad's know everything" . He knows his way around wrenches better than I do. no go. I am going to take it his place in Port Lavaca in 2 weeks and put a 3/4" air impact on it.

Dan Martin

[grifscoots]

Dan, mine had formed into a solid lump. When it finally broke free, it destroyed it and the whole shooting works had to be replaced.

[DanMartin]

Dan, mine had formed into a solid lump. When it finally broke free, it destroyed it and the whole shooting works had to be replaced.
Are you refering to 5,6,7 and 8 in this pic

[was]

Old VW trick: put on the socket and breaker bar so that the bar will be swinging UP to loosen. Try to get the angle of the bar slightly lower than horizontal to the floor. Then put a scissor (?sp) jack or hydraulic jack under the end of breaker bar and start it up until it begins to put pressure on the bar. In this case I would try to have some friends handy to hold the rear of the bike down and stablize it. Then wind or pump the jack up, slowly and steadily, and be prepared for the BANG.

[DanMartin]

Old VW trick: put on the socket and breaker bar so that the bar will be swinging UP to loosen. Try to get the angle of the bar slightly lower than horizontal to the floor. Then put a scissor (?sp) jack or hydraulic jack under the end of breaker bar and start it up until it begins to put pressure on the bar. In this case I would try to have some friends handy to hold the rear of the bike down and stablize it. Then wind or pump the jack up, slowly and steadily, and be prepared for the BANG.

I tried that this afternoon with my LARGE butt sitting on it while my daughter pumped the jack. No joy. I will try with a 3/4" air wrench in 2 weeks.

dan

[was]

I tried that this afternoon with my LARGE butt sitting on it while my daughter pumped the jack. No joy. I will try with a 3/4" air wrench in 2 weeks.

dan

Hi Dan. Just curious. What happened when you tried to jack the breaker bar up? With a 1500 lb. rated jack multiplied by the length of the breaker bar there is an incredible amount of torque. Did the bike start to move? Good luck with the 3/4" air wrench.

[DanMartin]

Hi Dan. Just curious. What happened when you tried to jack the breaker bar up? With a 1500 lb. rated jack multiplied by the length of the breaker bar there is an incredible amount of torque. Did the bike start to move? Good luck with the 3/4" air wrench.

The socket popped off of the nut. The wrench is not at 90 deg because of the saddlebag and the socket is a slightly loose fit.

dan

[grifscoots]

Are you refering to 5,6,7 and 8 in this pic

Yes, subsequently having to replace part #1.

[donmitt]

part 1....ouch!!!

[havensbc]

I tried that this afternoon with my LARGE butt sitting on it while my daughter pumped the jack. No joy. I will try with a 3/4" air wrench in 2 weeks.

dan
I would start adding some PB blaster or liquid wrench to it now so it has a chance to work its way into the threads and maybe break down whatever is making it stick.

Question? did you take the wire snap-ring out before you tried to remove the jamb nut, I don't remember how close it is to the nut but if it was installed incorrectly "in too far" it could be caught in the threads and the jamb nut could be binding on it.