Randy
Feb 13th, 2007, 11:27 am
Here are a couple of photos of the Stebel installation on my 2006 K1200GT. I used a couple of steel angle brackets from Home Depot. This is very stiff steel and provides a very rigid mount. I cut one down for the right hand side of the bracket, used one side of the second as a second support to the left mounting bolt. These bolts are into the frame where the ABS mounting bracket attaches. Then I fashioned a small right angle bracket out of another piece cut from the brackets to allow me to orient the horn with the outlets facing forward. Two additional sets of hardware were used to bolt the brackets together.
http://email.bmwlt.com/users/randy/Pictures/gthornmnt2.jpg
This bracket allows the horn to be located in the space behind the left fairing just behind the ABS assembly. The horn outlets face forward with little attenuation of sound, but are reasonably protected from rain and road debris. I installed the right-angle hose adaptor in the inlet, which then makes the air intake point downward. This, coupled with the location inside the fairing, should minimize the chance of the pump ingesting water.
http://email.bmwlt.com/users/randy/Pictures/gthorn2.jpg
After I was satisfied with the mounting I painted the brackets with some protective satin black paint. Since the horn draws nearly 20 amps there is no way to power it directly off of the horn outputs from the ZFE.
Added 3/13/07
When you get the horn there will be a relay included in the package. The relay will have 4 or five terminals. They will be numbered 30, 87, 85 and 86 (if there is a fifth one it might be another 87 or 87a - do not use a terminal labeled 87a). The horn will have two terminals on the back labeled '+ve' and '-ve'. The terminals on the horn and the terminals on the relay can use the same crimp on spade connector, available at any auto
supply.
You will need to remove the right hand fairing to get to the horn and the wiring. You will need to remove the left hand fairing to get to the mounting location for the Stebel horn. Using 16-gauge stranded wire run a lead from the negative battery terminal over to the left hand side where the new horn is mounted and connect it to the terminal on the horn labeled '-ve'. Run a 16-gauge wire from the terminal labeled '+ve' on the horn across to the upper front of the right fairing. This is where you are going to locate the relay. Connect this lead to the terminal #87 on the relay. Run a fused 16 gauge line from the battery positive to the front of the right fairing where you located the relay. Attach this lead to terminal #30 on the relay. Put the in-line fuse holder at the end near the battery. The best fuse holder is a weather-tight booted holder available at most auto supply stores. This holder will accommodate a 20-amp mini fuse, but do not install the fuse until all wiring is completed.
Locate the T-30 bolt holding the factory horn bracket. It will be accessible from the outside where it was covered by the right fairing. You can locate the horn by looking inside of the front wheel area, it is on the right side of the bike or to the left as you look in from the front. Remove the bolt to let the horn drop, disconnect the electrical connector from the horn. It has a small locking tab that must be depressed to disconnect he wiring. Feed this connector back up through the sub-frame that the horn was mounted to so you can more easily get to the wiring. There are two wires to the factory horn. One is brown and the other one is green with a grey tracer. You want to splice two wires, one to each of the factory horn leads. These wires need to be long enough to reach the relay. I recommend soldering the leads at the factory wiring and wrapping the connections tightly with high quality electrical tape. If you are unable to solder the leads, you can use crimp type butt splices to join the wiring, but you still should wrap the connections tightly with good quality electrical tape. After the connections are made feed the connector back through to the inside of the sub-frame, reconnect it to the horn and mount the horn. The two wires you spliced into the factory wiring should be connected to terminals 85 and 86 on the relay. It doesn't matter which one goes to either terminal.
Inspect all of your wiring, zip tie the new relay to the sub-frame and zip tie the wiring in several places. Before installing the fuse into the new connector test the stock horn to make sure it still works. Then install a 20-amp fuse in the in-line fuse holder and test again, both horns should honk.
Both horns operate when I press the button and together they are LOUD.
The entire project took a little over an hour.
http://email.bmwlt.com/users/randy/Pictures/gthornmnt2.jpg
This bracket allows the horn to be located in the space behind the left fairing just behind the ABS assembly. The horn outlets face forward with little attenuation of sound, but are reasonably protected from rain and road debris. I installed the right-angle hose adaptor in the inlet, which then makes the air intake point downward. This, coupled with the location inside the fairing, should minimize the chance of the pump ingesting water.
http://email.bmwlt.com/users/randy/Pictures/gthorn2.jpg
After I was satisfied with the mounting I painted the brackets with some protective satin black paint. Since the horn draws nearly 20 amps there is no way to power it directly off of the horn outputs from the ZFE.
Added 3/13/07
When you get the horn there will be a relay included in the package. The relay will have 4 or five terminals. They will be numbered 30, 87, 85 and 86 (if there is a fifth one it might be another 87 or 87a - do not use a terminal labeled 87a). The horn will have two terminals on the back labeled '+ve' and '-ve'. The terminals on the horn and the terminals on the relay can use the same crimp on spade connector, available at any auto
supply.
You will need to remove the right hand fairing to get to the horn and the wiring. You will need to remove the left hand fairing to get to the mounting location for the Stebel horn. Using 16-gauge stranded wire run a lead from the negative battery terminal over to the left hand side where the new horn is mounted and connect it to the terminal on the horn labeled '-ve'. Run a 16-gauge wire from the terminal labeled '+ve' on the horn across to the upper front of the right fairing. This is where you are going to locate the relay. Connect this lead to the terminal #87 on the relay. Run a fused 16 gauge line from the battery positive to the front of the right fairing where you located the relay. Attach this lead to terminal #30 on the relay. Put the in-line fuse holder at the end near the battery. The best fuse holder is a weather-tight booted holder available at most auto supply stores. This holder will accommodate a 20-amp mini fuse, but do not install the fuse until all wiring is completed.
Locate the T-30 bolt holding the factory horn bracket. It will be accessible from the outside where it was covered by the right fairing. You can locate the horn by looking inside of the front wheel area, it is on the right side of the bike or to the left as you look in from the front. Remove the bolt to let the horn drop, disconnect the electrical connector from the horn. It has a small locking tab that must be depressed to disconnect he wiring. Feed this connector back up through the sub-frame that the horn was mounted to so you can more easily get to the wiring. There are two wires to the factory horn. One is brown and the other one is green with a grey tracer. You want to splice two wires, one to each of the factory horn leads. These wires need to be long enough to reach the relay. I recommend soldering the leads at the factory wiring and wrapping the connections tightly with high quality electrical tape. If you are unable to solder the leads, you can use crimp type butt splices to join the wiring, but you still should wrap the connections tightly with good quality electrical tape. After the connections are made feed the connector back through to the inside of the sub-frame, reconnect it to the horn and mount the horn. The two wires you spliced into the factory wiring should be connected to terminals 85 and 86 on the relay. It doesn't matter which one goes to either terminal.
Inspect all of your wiring, zip tie the new relay to the sub-frame and zip tie the wiring in several places. Before installing the fuse into the new connector test the stock horn to make sure it still works. Then install a 20-amp fuse in the in-line fuse holder and test again, both horns should honk.
Both horns operate when I press the button and together they are LOUD.
The entire project took a little over an hour.