Got my 2000 K12... first problem already

[juggler]

I picked up my "new" bike on Friday night. I rode it on several errands yesterday. Each time I started it, the started seemed to be turning a little more weakly. Also, on the second to the last ride of the night, I thought I smelled something that smelled like hot electrics... I figured it was probably another vehicle... I smelled it one more time, and both times it was after riding two or three miles between 25 and 40 MPH. I made one more stop on the way home and the bike started (again, weakly) and I rode home uneventfully. When I got home, I sniffed around the bike and didn't smell the smell.

This morning, it wouldn't start at all. I hit the starter button and I hear a few faint clicks, but no engagement... at least no cranking.

I checked the battery. It was showing a whopping 9 volts. I have had it on the trickle charger for a few hours, and it's up to 10 volts. In looking around, I noticed that the trunk light was on.

I haven't tried jumping it from the car... yet. I can't fit my regular jumper cable onto the positive battery terminal without possibly touching anything else.


So... a couple questions:

1) Is there something that keeps the starter from turning if the battery is below a certain voltage?

2) Is it possible for the trunk light to be on with the bike off and the trunk closed?

What else should I be checking?

[strsout]

Welcome to the group :) :)


1) Is there something that keeps the starter from turning if the battery is below a certain voltage?

yes, the bike will not start with the battery below something like 10.xxV.


2) Is it possible for the trunk light to be on with the bike off and the trunk closed?

What else should I be checking?

If the switch is not working, yes.
There is a small switch on the back of the trunk, that is suppose to cut the power when you close the lid, but... !! please, check it.

Looks like that you have a bad battery. Can you tell if it's the original battery? If this is the case, a new one will do. Did you buy from a dealer? if yes you do have warranty, otherwise just bite the $100 for a gel battery.

[CharlieVT]

The OEM starter relay (still have mine) was known to weld shut if the battery got low. BMW fixed this with a upgraded starter relay (your bike might have one) which does prevent cranking if the voltage is too low.

Leaving the trunk light on can drain your battery.

Your burning electric smell may have not have been yours.

Any after market, previous owner installed electrics? That would be my first suspect. Stock wiring would probably blow a fuse if there was a short.

[CharlieVT]

[QUOTE=strsout]Welcome to the group :) :)
There is a small switch on the back of the trunk, that is suppose to cut the power when you close the lid, but... !! please, check it.
QUOTE]
My 2000 does not have this switch. I think it was installed in later models.

[CarSalesman]

Don't keep trying to start it until you're sure the battery is well charged. You can burn out the starter quite easily, cranking with low voltage. Many here have paid the price.

Later models have a relay which prevents the starter from working below a certain voltage, as Elton noted above. That's to prevent damage. I don't think the 2000 models had that relay, although it could have been added. You won't have any problems, provided you don't force the starter to work with a weak battery.

[CharlieVT]

Quote: "Also, on the second to the last ride of the night, I thought I smelled something that smelled like hot electrics... I figured it was probably another vehicle... I smelled it one more time, and both times it was after riding two or three miles between 25 and 40 MPH. "

How long has your "new" bike been sitting. All your brake calipers working properly, or do you have a stuck caliper piston cause brake pad wear causing your "hot electrics" smell?


Just brain storming here.

[juggler]

It's on the trickle charger and still reading only 10 or 11 volts. The starter isn't turning at all, so I'm not trying to crank with too weak a battery (I hope).

When I first went out this morning, when I turned the key, the idiot lights came on dimly. Now they appear to be normal brightness.

There are aftermarket PIAA lights that are controlled by the turn signal cancel switch. There is an LED near the switch and when the switch is held for a few seconds, the LED flashes red. Let go of the switch and the LED turns green and the lights come on. Right now, when I press the starter button, the LED comes on red.

There may be some other aftermarket things... there are a couple extra terminals stacked on the positive battery post. Each one has an inline fuse holder (I haven't checked to see if each one has a fuse).

I bought the bike from a private party. He only owned the bike for a year or so. (Okay, beat me senseless for not having a dealer or indy give it a PPI.)

The battery has sufficient dirt on it that I would believe that it is original.

Again, I hope it's just a dead battery.

I hope I hope I hope.

[juggler]

One other minor weirdness... coming home last night, the temp on the computer said 41F. I think it was colder than that, and I'm sure it wasn't the exact same temperature the entire 15 miles home. This morning, when the battery was down to 9v, I thought it said something like 28F... it's much warmer than that. Ummmmmm... just another symptom of low battery?


I'll be away from the computer... possibly for the rest of the evening (US west coast time).

Thanks for all the ideas.... let's see what a trickle charge overnight does.

[dshealey]

One other minor weirdness... coming home last night, the temp on the computer said 41F. I think it was colder than that, and I'm sure it wasn't the exact same temperature the entire 15 miles home. This morning, when the battery was down to 9v, I thought it said something like 28F... it's much warmer than that. Ummmmmm... just another symptom of low battery?


I'll be away from the computer... possibly for the rest of the evening (US west coast time).

Thanks for all the ideas.... let's see what a trickle charge overnight does.

Low battery voltage causes a lot of problems on the LT, and temp readings on the BC is one.

The first thing you should do is insure that the alternator charge light on the dash comes on when you turn on the ignition, without starting the engine. If that light does not come on, then there is either a burned out bulb, or the connection for it has come off the rear of the alternator (not all that uncommon). When the light is not working for either reason, the alternator may or may not charge when the engine is running, usually it will not.

Second, go ahead and get a new battery right away. It is not worth gambling on a battery that has been bought down that low in voltage. Yes, it may charge up and work, but it will never again have the life and charge retention that you would want to depend on.

[fredthead]

As everyone else has said, get a new battery. Trying to troubleshoot an electrical problem with a weak or bad battery will drive you crazy.

[K1200LTryder]

Put a new battery in it, the previous owner didnt want to, it's obvious. Do not waste your time trying to charge an old battery, it will cause more trouble than a new battery is worth.

The electrical system on these motorcycles DEPENDS on a good battery, otherwise, the gremlins oooze out of the closet.

Make sure your connections are clean when you install the new battery, and use Die-electric jell on ALL of your electrics that you may remove and clean up in the future. ( you can get it at Autozone for less than a big gulp)

Trust me, after owning a CBX with no kick starter for 17 years, a good battery is EVERYTHING !!!

[Steve_R]

How about a starter relay? Especially since he's got low battery voltage on a 2000 and we don't know that it has the newer relay on it. Me, I don't think hot brakes ever smell like burning electronics.

[zippy_gg]

Since your bike is a 2000 the battery has most likely been changed after 3-4 years, so the current battery is also due for replacement.

You may want to try this new battery from
http://portablepower.com/items/search/SLA/1/all/Panasonic/LC-X1220P Description: Panasonic LC-X1220P (12 Volt/20 Amp Hour) Sealed Lead Acid Battery - Nut-Bolt Terminal - VRLA (AGM) Technology

As many have stated, your electronics depend on a good battery to function properly.

Also the trunk light migh stay ON of the key is in the OFF position and not in the LOCK position. Some of the add-on connectors you noticed on the battery terminal belong to the PIAA light, among others.

[deputy5211]

Since your bike is a 2000 the battery has most likely been changed after 3-4 years, so the current battery is also due for replacement.

You may want to try this new battery from
http://portablepower.com/items/search/SLA/1/all/Panasonic/LC-X1220P Description: Panasonic LC-X1220P (12 Volt/20 Amp Hour) Sealed Lead Acid Battery - Nut-Bolt Terminal - VRLA (AGM) Technology

As many have stated, your electronics depend on a good battery to function properly.

Also the trunk light migh stay ON of the key is in the OFF position and not in the LOCK position. Some of the add-on connectors you noticed on the battery terminal belong to the PIAA light, among others.

Portable Power site says availability is "4 - 6 weeks," so you may want to look for other sources if time is a factor. ;)

[George_S]

Might be worth a shot to complain to the seller that he knew the battery was nearly dead when he sold it to you. He may just offer to reimburse you for the new battery. Worst he could say is "Sorry, I sold it 'as is', its your problem now"..
Most people that sell bikes sell it because "they're just not riding it much" which means its been lying around. He probably knew it was ready to go, and charged it up so it worked just enough to sell it to you, then, after your several short trips and the need to start the bike a few times, that charge was gone.

[sanjaun2]

Juggler,
Just where in the Northwet are you located? If you are not to far away I can loan you a hand and I have a Brand new maintenance free battery I can sell you for a reasonable price.

[AlaskaFish]

Juggler,
Just where in the Northwet are you located? If you are not to far away I can loan you a hand and I have a Brand new maintenance free battery I can sell you for a reasonable price.
Juggler, take Brian up on his offer right now! And see if the two of you can't hook up to do a little troubleshooting. You will learn a lot from him!

Also, the trunk light on our 2000 LT's does not have the switch Elton referred to, unless someone installed it aftermarket, so double check the switch position once you do get a good battery installed just to make sure it is not draining the battery.

Hope we can get together some day at one of our Nor Wet Tech Sessions!

John

[zippy_gg]

Portable Power site says availability is "4 - 6 weeks," so you may want to look for other sources if time is a factor. ;)Yes they do, however they shipped mine in 4 days! Go figure!:confused:
Not that I am complaining or anything... My battery has been sitting inside my apartment, waiting to be installed. If only I had the time...:rolleyes: Oh, wait... Tuesday sounds like a great mental day. I like Tuesdays because the dealers are open!;)

[jrlakin]

I have a 2000, and my bike has a switch to turn the trunk light on and off! jrlakin

[AlaskaFish]

I have a 2000, and my bike has a switch to turn the trunk light on and off! jrlakin
And my 2000 does also. On the light itself. But what Elton was referring to was a small pushbutton switch that was added to the Bikes later than ours which would cut power to the light in case it had been left on. If your 2000 has this push button switch I would be very surprised. It must either be one that was added, or perhaps the trunk was replaced. The only other possible explanation would be if they did actually start installing them in late 2000, early 2001.

John

[ibbones]

Juggler,
Just where in the Northwet are you located? If you are not to far away I can loan you a hand and I have a Brand new maintenance free battery I can sell you for a reasonable price.

That's what this group is all about. You da Man Brian!

[jrlakin]

No push button on mine. I guess I misunderstood what was being referred to. jrlakin

[juggler]

Juggler,
Just where in the Northwet are you located? If you are not to far away I can loan you a hand and I have a Brand new maintenance free battery I can sell you for a reasonable price.The inner eastern suburbs of Seattle. Quite near the intersection of 405 and 90. I'll be in touch. Thanks for the offer!

[juggler]

The previous owner said he had injured his back in a snowmobile accident and couldn't ride for awhile. He bought the bike in April 2006. I just got e-mail back from him. He said the bike has sat since August and was on a charger before he started to have people come and look at it in December. (He's also now following this thread... ain't connectivity wunnerful?)

I've also been talking with a friend who has an R1100RT and worked at a bike shop for a while... The other symptom that I didn't realize was relevant was that on the second to the last start on Saturday night, I did get the alternating ABS light flashing. Since the previous owner forgot to give me the owner's manual, so not having read up, I simply shut the bike off for a few seconds and started it again. I know the simultaneous flashing continues until the sensors both register 3 MPH, and the first motion of the bike had been in reverse, so I figgered that would reset the ABS... which it appeared to do.

The battery has been on a 1 amp charger overnight. Of course, I didn't think to check the fluid level in the cells before doing this. Argh. But as soon as it's light out (in a half an hour or so) I will go out and see where we are.


The other thing that crossed my mind last night was that the *last* thing I did when I got home on Saturday was engage reverse to back the bike up to the garage. I was wondering if there is an interlock that keeps the starter from engaging if the F-R lever is not all the way into the F position. The N light is on, but I'm not assuming that means all conditions are happy for a starter engagement. Anything here?


Oh, and one last detail: I had some spare keys made at a locksmith. He said it is the blank for older BMW cars. On my first failed attempt to start the bike yesterday, I was using one of the newly cut keys. I would think it wouldn't make any difference, but you never know. I had a Honda Accord that wouldn't start with one particular locksmith-made key unless you pushed it in extra hard. I can only imagine that some clever engineer at BMW designed a device that prevents the bike from being started if an imperfect key is used -- either as an anti-theft device, or just to make sure you get your keys made at the dealer. But the genuine BMW key produced the same results, so I assume this is a red herring.


Thanks bunches. You guys are great. I will enjoy being a member of this community... I appear to be starting with a spike in my learning curve, so it may not be too long before I'm answering questions as well as asking them.

[juggler]

Latest developments: I just took the charger off the battery. It's barely reading 12 volts. I put the key in, hit the starter button, and got one turn, then it stopped and wouldn't turn again.

At least this sounds like the relay isn't fried. Yes? I hope?

I will try to secure a new battery today, otherwise, it may be sitting this way until next weekend. :(

Any advice on attempting to jump-start it... or not? I have another motorcycle battery (for my R75) sitting here with a good charge on it (I think).

*edit* It sounds like jumpstarting it is a BAD idea if riding around with a weak battery can cause other things to go kafritz.

[Bob204bc]

Put a new battery in it, the previous owner didnt want to, it's obvious. Do not waste your time trying to charge an old battery, it will cause more trouble than a new battery is worth.

The electrical system on these motorcycles DEPENDS on a good battery, otherwise, the gremlins oooze out of the closet.


My ABS control module was ruined, per BMW, by low voltage from an old battery that went dead over the winter several years ago. They said, you should have changed the battery, it's just over 3 years old. That was a $2,000+ mistake. Since I bought it used and out of town the local dealer would not go to bat with the factory for me. So I was screwed, no condoms were used in the commission of this buggery.

Moral to the story? Get a new battery, hope nothing else was toasted and lock the ignition so all accessories and lights are sure to be off when parked.

Good luck.

[juggler]

Okay, you folks are making me have second thoughts about buying a K12. I've owned nearly 20 motorcycles over the past 25 years. I've never had one that would suffer cascading failures from a simple dead battery. The worst effect I've ever had from a dead battery before is having to reset my clock and radio stations. This must be the Achilles heel of German whizbangery.

[jwd98056]

Latest developments: I just took the charger off the battery. It's barely reading 12 volts. I put the key in, hit the starter button, and got one turn, then it stopped and wouldn't turn again.

At least this sounds like the relay isn't fried. Yes? I hope?

I will try to secure a new battery today, otherwise, it may be sitting this way until next weekend. :(

Any advice on attempting to jump-start it... or not? I have another motorcycle battery (for my R75) sitting here with a good charge on it (I think).

If your battery doesn't charge above 12V it is toast. A fully charged battery in good condition would be closer to 13.8V. There are MANY battery treads on this forum and the number one suggestion for electrically related problems, and some not so obviously electrically related problems such as ABS faults, is check/replace the battery.

As others have stated if you continue to try and start your bike with a bad battery you risk welding your starter relay closed or frying your starter. If your R75 battery is the same rating as the LT battery and it's fully charged voltage is above 13V you can certainly try it. Otherwise do yourself a favor and forget trying to troubleshoot any further until you can install a new battery. IMHO you are just wasting your time and risk doing damage to your LT.

[jackd]

Latest developments: I just took the charger off the battery. It's barely reading 12 volts. I put the key in, hit the starter button, and got one turn, then it stopped and wouldn't turn again.

At least this sounds like the relay isn't fried. Yes? I hope?

I will try to secure a new battery today, otherwise, it may be sitting this way until next weekend. :(

Any advice on attempting to jump-start it... or not? I have another motorcycle battery (for my R75) sitting here with a good charge on it (I think).

My advice would be to check the level of the water and adjust as it is most likely down. Look at the inside as you inspect with a good light.

If you see any sulfating (crud) don't fiddle with this battery. Get a new one as the discharge from the previous owner probably started the decay of the battery.. it only takes one discharge to start the battery to the point of no return.. no matter how old the battery is.

The relay seems OK.. the problem with the relay is it sticks with low voltage and the excessive current will fry the contacts and welds then closed.. You probably don't have enough current available with this battery to ruin the relay.;) Keep playing with it and you might.. :crazy:

IMHO the cost of the battery to the possible damage you can do with trying to start it with a poor or bad battery is not worth it. The $100 or so dollars that you spend on the battery will be returned to you while you own the LT.. If your lucky enough to have the LT for a significant amount of time you will need a battery anyhow. The problems you have in your garage could be 100 miles away from home in a month...

I have reasonable luck with batteries because I always keep my LT on a battery charger. My Battery Tender connection is always sitting ready to be attached to the bike. In season when I know I will be out of town for even a day I connect and fire up the Tender. At the first sign of battery problems... slow cranking I replace my battery. The car, M/C or anything that I have that has a battery.. it is a very cost effective diagnostic technique to replace a battery.. If you think about it even a 100 month battery (that costs out to a $1 a month in hardware costs) that shows any sign of failing at say 60 months... is only $40 extra cost... put that cost against shop labor or your time stranded and trying to get started.

Bottom line is if you don't have a float charger.. (like a Battery Tender) this is the time to invest in a new battery and float charger.. I've owned a float charger for will over 20 years.. I bought my current Battery Tender after I had a $5 1 amp charger ruin a $75 battery after I forgot to remove the charger... :(

The outrageously priced 'Battery Tender' has paid for itself multiple times. :dance:

[juggler]

Okay, is there a button on this forum for "let's all say it in unison..."?

I'm waiting to hear back from Brian about his MF battery he graciously offered to sell me. Otherwise, I will swing by the dealer and pick up a new one.

I will report back when there is news.

Thanks, all.

[juggler]

1. The battery in this bike comes out really easily! Not like my first Beemer.

2. So, which is the bike's positive cable? The one that runs along the frame rail, or the one that disappears up into the tupper? I assume the white one is for the PIAA lights. Any guesses?
http://img5.ranchoweb.com/images/pianojuggler/batterms.jpg

There was also another wire that was on a pigtail like the one that comes with a Batterytender. It's still attached to the battery.


Oh, and anyone recognize the "FF" on the gas tank? It sorta looks like the part marking one sees on parts from a salvage yard. (yikes?)

[zippy_gg]

Okay, is there a button on this forum for "let's all say it in unison..."?
Yup, and you pushed it!:rotf:

We all want to know how things turn out!;)

[zippy_gg]

1. The battery in this bike comes out really easily! Not like my first Beemer.

2. So, which is the bike's positive cable? The one that runs along the frame rail, or the one that disappears up into the tupper? I assume the white one is for the PIAA lights. Any guesses?
http://img5.ranchoweb.com/images/pianojuggler/batterms.jpg

There was also another wire that was on a pigtail like the one that comes with a Batterytender. It's still attached to the battery.


Oh, and anyone recognize the "FF" on the gas tank? It sorta looks like the part marking one sees on parts from a salvage yard. (yikes?)
I would venture to say that the 2 wires with red tape were attached to the positive, one going to the starter, and the other going to the fuse box. The other wire on the right (without red tape) is your negative.
The FF mark may have been made by a mechanic at the dealership. I found markings and arrows on my 99 LT that looked just like that.

[Steve_R]

The battery has been on a 1 amp charger overnight. Of course, I didn't think to check the fluid level in the cells before doing this. Argh. But as soon as it's light out (in a half an hour or so) I will go out and see where we are..

For all you new folks that are trying to help out with juggler's flashing brake light warning problem, I am going to repeat myself again. His motorcycle is a 2000 year model. It has ABS II brakes, therefore there is only one rear resivoir and it DOES NOT have a sensor to check for low fluid. If my memory serves me correctly, only the bikes with Integral ABS have two fluid resivoirs on the rear and a sensor to monitor their level. How do you know whether you have ABS II or Integral brakes you ask? If the calipers say Brembo, then you have ABS II and only one rear fluid resivoir with NO sensor. If they say BMW, then you have Integral ABS with dual rear resivoirs and you DO have the fluild level sensor.

[jackd]

I've owned nearly 20 motorcycles over the past 25 years. I've never had one that would suffer cascading failures from a simple dead battery.

I wonder how many of those motorcycles had as much electronic 'stuff' as this one has.. ;) IMHO .... Comparing even a 2000 LT to any older M/C would be like comparing a current auto to a 1990 model.

The dead battery is not the issue. It's the gray area between running and not running that is the scarry part. All these electronic components are not fixable just replaceable. Why take chances.

[jwd98056]

The battery has been on a 1 amp charger overnight. Of course, I didn't think to check the fluid level in the cells before doing this. Argh. But as soon as it's light out (in a half an hour or so) I will go out and see where we are.
For all you new folks that are trying to help out with juggler's flashing brake light warning problem, I am going to repeat myself again. His motorcycle is a 2000 year model. It has ABS II brakes, therefore there is only one rear resivoir and it DOES NOT have a sensor to check for low fluid. If my memory serves me correctly, only the bikes with Integral ABS have two fluid resivoirs on the rear and a sensor to monitor their level. How do you know whether you have ABS II or Integral brakes you ask? If the calipers say Brembo, then you have ABS II and only one rear fluid resivoir with NO sensor. If they say BMW, then you have Integral ABS with dual rear resivoirs and you DO have the fluild level sensor.
The only other post you submitted to this thread was concerning the starter relay so I'm not sure where you first posted the information you are now repeating. While everything you are saying here may be valid in some other context I am unsure how it applies to any post in this thread. The only levels being referred to anywhere in this thread are the battery voltage level or, as in the paragraph you quoted, the electrolyte levels in the battery cells. There has been no mention of ABS reservoirs, ABS fluid levels or ABS sensors other than what is in your post. Perhaps you have misread one or more of the posts or you are confusing it with another thread.

[sanjaun2]

I guess I picked the wrong day to be busy at work! Usually I can sneak in some forum time. Sorry Victor. I PM'D you about having the correct battery for your bike and the charger you have. The LT does have some expensive hardware so try not to mess around with a dead battery. Thats why I have a brand new one on hand before my other one went bad! I hooked it up to my LT and she starts her easily on a very cold morning. $40 bucks for a battery and most likely you'll be good to go. I would not even try your other battery if its condition and amp rating are unknown. Call me again and we'll set you up with the battery and a little BMWLT.com tech assist. Sooner than later because the weather is starting to look promising.

[sanjaun2]

I forgot to mention.... Do not let this get you down. The LT and GT are the finest 2 wheel machines made. Get that big heavy beast on some twisties and it will be all smiles!

[sanjaun2]

Juggler, take Brian up on his offer right now! And see if the two of you can't hook up to do a little troubleshooting. You will learn a lot from him!

Also, the trunk light on our 2000 LT's does not have the switch Elton referred to, unless someone installed it aftermarket, so double check the switch position once you do get a good battery installed just to make sure it is not draining the battery.

Hope we can get together some day at one of our Nor Wet Tech Sessions!

John
John,
You are just being nice because you Oregonians trained me! thanks again.

[Gene_Chapman]

Just got the LT out of South Sound BMW after a week of prep for the 2007 riding season. Extended warranty cost me $500, just saved me $1400 in repairs. Leaky engine input shaft seal and other old leaking parts..<G>!

So...about a tech session in the Tacoma area???? Wasnt it beautiful Saturday! Felt good with the knees in the breeze!

[juggler]

I wonder how many of those motorcycles had as much electronic 'stuff' as this one has.. ;) IMHO .... Comparing even a 2000 LT to any older M/C would be like comparing a current auto to a 1990 model.The only one that would come close would be the 2004 GL1800 that I sold last month.

I'm just sayin'... a bike intended to be ridden far, far from home should be trusted not to 1) leave you stranded far, far from home, and 2) not to start eating its own components when the going gets tough. I'm just sayin'...


A couple months ago, my mother left the dome light on in her 1995 Honda Accord for a week or two. The battery was flat as a pancake. I jumped it, drove it for a couple of days to get it charged back up and all is well.

[Steve_R]

Sorry Jim, you are correct. I misread the post thinking he was chasing a brake issues. :o Sorry for the confusion.

[juggler]

...just as long as you folks don't start in on "blinker fluid". I got enough of that on the GL1800 board. :D

[scurrie]

Just a few tips along these lines...
12 volt lead-acid batteries that are fully charged will be at 12.6V (charging voltage on the bikes electrical system will be 13.8V). When it gets down to 12.2V, it is at about 50% capacity. By time it gets to 9V it is really dead! Charging a really dead battery with a 1 amp trickle charger will take many many days to get it back to fully charged, and it won't have full capacity anymore. Standard lead-acid car batteries do not like being deeply discharged, testing the battery's specific gravity will show it is not really full capacity anymore. If it is several years old, and got down to 9V, it is junk and I wouldn't trust it to get me to the grocery store a few miles from my house...

Modern electronics do not like running on low voltage. Circuits could be designed to shut down before damage occurs, but you wouldn't want to pay the higher sticker price to get all those protective circuits.

You sold a 2004 GL1800 for a 2000 K12LT?? I like the LT, but I wouldn't go back 4 years....

-Scurrie

[juggler]

Scurrie-

The other bike I was looking at was a 1995-ish - 1999 GL1500.

I have my reasons, okay?

-j

[scurrie]

Scurrie-

The other bike I was looking at was a 1995-ish - 1999 GL1500.

I have my reasons, okay?

-j

Sure, you can buy anything you want and for what ever reason. Me? I wouldn't go back 4 years...

-Scurrie

[juggler]

All better.

New battery. Joy.

The white wire is definitely for the PIAAs.

Thanks, everyone... especially Brian who is out on an RTE without me.