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View Full Version : CQLight.ca HID kit - Installation Notes (16 pics!)


messenger13
Jan 13th, 2007, 4:02 am
I guess this is Part II of my recent HID series. :rolleyes: Be sure to checkout THIS THREAD (http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18226) as well. Between the two threads, anyone should be able to install an HID kit on their new GT.

Due to the lack of working space, I removed the following:

The seats
The right and left upper Tupperware
The battery compartment cover
The fuel tank Tupperware
The windshield
The trim pieces under the windshield
The cowl around the dash
Lastly, the windshield motor (It's easier than it sounds. (8) T-30 bolts and an electrical connector and it's outta your way.)
Now we have full access to everything! Woohoo!


Before I forget, first and foremost always remember to test your kit before you go too far. This will ensure that the thing actually works. Out of box failures can and do happen. But MORE IMPORTANTLY, you should test the HID lamp (after cleaning with alcohol) as to burn any debris off the lamp. If you don't do this before installing, you run the risk of smoking up the inside of your headlight assembly. Not purty. Not fun!


http://mail.bmwlt.net/~messenger13/pics/GT_HID1.jpg


Here's the resistor with the tape already removed. Removed the resistor with a soldering iron in case I needed to reinstall it.

http://mail.bmwlt.net/~messenger13/pics/GT_HID2.jpg

http://mail.bmwlt.net/~messenger13/pics/GT_HID3.jpg


I measured the new style grommet to see what size hole I needed to make.

http://mail.bmwlt.net/~messenger13/pics/GT_HID4.jpg


Remove cover from rear of headlight assembly, and remove Halogen low-beam.

http://mail.bmwlt.net/~messenger13/pics/GT_HID5.jpg


Since the material of this cover is so soft, I simply cut the hole instead of drilling it.

http://mail.bmwlt.net/~messenger13/pics/GT_HID6.jpg


Grommet goes in easily.

http://mail.bmwlt.net/~messenger13/pics/GT_HID7.jpg


Now we need to feed the power leads through the other two holes in the grommet.

http://mail.bmwlt.net/~messenger13/pics/GT_HID8.jpg


Using needlenose pliers, I forced the leads through the two vacant holes in the grommet. That part is ready for installation.

http://mail.bmwlt.net/~messenger13/pics/GT_HID9.jpg



Again...connect the proper leads to the proper wires. Red into Yellow. Black into Brown.

http://mail.bmwlt.net/~messenger13/pics/GT_HID10.jpg


Now...where to put the ballast and igniter? I decided that there was a lot of available space on the right side of the bike, and the wires all reached, so why not? The fuse is still reachable without removing any Tupperware.

http://mail.bmwlt.net/~messenger13/pics/GT_HID11.jpg


Yes, the ignitor just clears the glove box. :) Note where the connector for the windshield motor is in the pic below.

http://mail.bmwlt.net/~messenger13/pics/GT_HID12.jpg


Yummy! A very clean install. The fuse is just to left of where you can see in this pic.

http://mail.bmwlt.net/~messenger13/pics/GT_HID13.jpg


Some before and after shots...

http://mail.bmwlt.net/~messenger13/pics/GT_HID14.jpg

http://mail.bmwlt.net/~messenger13/pics/GT_HID15.jpg

http://mail.bmwlt.net/~messenger13/pics/GT_HID16.jpg

grifscoots
Jan 13th, 2007, 8:44 am
Good job, mate. Man, you sure took off more than I did, but hid it better.
http://www.k-bikes.com/gallery/files/1/4/8/8/5/HID018.jpg

VikingRider
Jan 13th, 2007, 9:31 am
Me thinks this capacitor (10000uf 25V) is there as a snubber, to arrest any voltage spikes when the light shuts down (as magnetic field of ballast collapses at power off)
Capacitor is internal or external, depending on ballast construction.

grifscoots
Jan 13th, 2007, 9:34 am
Me thinks this capacitor (10000uf 25V) is there as a snubber, to arrest any voltage spikes when the light shuts down (as magnetic field of ballast collapses at power off)

I like that word.... snubber. I think I'll walk around all day saying it.

He'll send the kit with or without, so I'm not sure that the snubber thang is called for. It's mainly to trick the canbus into thinking there's a 55w draw.

Snubber's unite! Snub the snubber!

Randy
Jan 13th, 2007, 9:37 am
Here's the resistor with the tape already removed. Removed the resistor with a soldering iron in case I needed to reinstall it.

http://mail.bmwlt.net/~messenger13/pics/GT_HID2.jpg

http://mail.bmwlt.net/~messenger13/pics/GT_HID3.jpg

Joe;

That is not a resistor. It is a 10,000uf capacitor. They probably put it in the line for noise suppression, to keep the switching noise from the ballast from getting back into the ZFE. It is probably not necessary, but won't hurt anything either. It draws absolutely no current, once charged and that takes milliseconds. It also could reduce the current that the ZFE senses, by suppressing any noise spikes from the ballast.

Randy
Jan 13th, 2007, 9:39 am
Me thinks this capacitor (10000uf 25V) is there as a snubber, to arrest any voltage spikes when the light shuts down (as magnetic field of ballast collapses at power off)
Capacitor is internal or external, depending on ballast construction.Actually the ballast uses a 'switch mode' power supply, meaning that it is constantly turning on and off, at a very high frequency.

wcarter
Jan 13th, 2007, 9:59 am
Quoting your instructions for routing the spade ends through the grommet:

Now we need to feed the power leads through the other two holes in the grommet.




Using needlenose pliers, I forced the leads through the two vacant holes in the grommet. That part is ready for installation.





Again...connect the proper leads to the proper wires. Red into Yellow. Black into Brown.




Could that be done with an LT installation? It would keep the H7 plug inside the headlight assembly, out of the weather, and eliminate the need to cut a slot in the side of the dust cover.

messenger13
Jan 13th, 2007, 10:38 am
Could that be done with an LT installation? It would keep the H7 plug inside the headlight assembly, out of the weather, and eliminate the need to cut a slot in the side of the dust cover.Absolutely! That's how I plan on doing an LT's installation today.

messenger13
Jan 13th, 2007, 10:44 am
Joe;

That is not a resistor. It is a 10,000uf capacitor.And I kept telling myself that last night as I typed the post up. But I figured I was either tired, or just plain wrong...I dunno. :o

Randy
Jan 13th, 2007, 12:25 pm
And I kept telling myself that last night as I typed the post up. But I figured I was either tired, or just plain wrong...I dunno. :oOne good thing - it appears to be a good quality capacitor. The 105 degree rating will make it less susceptible to drying out.

rkirker
Jan 13th, 2007, 7:47 pm
Could that be done with an LT installation? It would keep the H7 plug inside the headlight assembly, out of the weather, and eliminate the need to cut a slot in the side of the dust cover.

That is what I did today and it works nicely :D
I open the spare holes a lil bit with an exacto and got em through. Everything is now behind the cover and gromit.

jayjacobson
Jan 17th, 2007, 9:35 am
CQLight.ca HID kit - Installation Notes (16 pics!)

WOW! Great pic's. You can really see the difference in the brightness of the bulbs.

messenger13
Jan 17th, 2007, 12:49 pm
CQLight.ca HID kit - Installation Notes (16 pics!)

WOW! Great pic's. You can really see the difference in the brightness of the bulbs.Now if I can only convince you stop ruining all that Guinness, then we'll be on the same page! :D

jayjacobson
Jan 18th, 2007, 12:58 am
Now if I can only convince you stop ruining all that Guinness, then we'll be on the same page! :D
Tell you what, Joe, how about a compromise: A sixer in the ice box for me!?

Lzyellodog
Jan 18th, 2007, 12:26 pm
One good thing - it appears to be a good quality capacitor. The 105 degree rating will make it less susceptible to drying out.


Randy, What would cause a cap to "explode"? I work with a company that uses a consumer grade flash unit made by Vivitar and we had two units "explode" recently. The flash units are probably 10 years old. Do they just dry out and then short out? Thanks.

BMWphreak
Jan 18th, 2007, 6:56 pm
Randy, What would cause a cap to "explode"? I work with a company that uses a consumer grade flash unit made by Vivitar and we had two units "explode" recently. The flash units are probably 10 years old. Do they just dry out and then short out? Thanks.

Yep... this can be especially true if they are not charged for long period of time.

jpalamaro
Jan 22nd, 2007, 7:21 pm
What a great job Joe. I almost (a l m o s t being the operative word) wanted to tear into mine! Excellent pix and tutorial.

BTW, on the sig line: - just Joe,A.D.D., A.D.H.D., O.C.D., P.T.S.D.

What's ADHD? And, what's PTSD? Just in case I have them also?

Randy
Jan 22nd, 2007, 7:34 pm
Randy, What would cause a cap to "explode"? I work with a company that uses a consumer grade flash unit made by Vivitar and we had two units "explode" recently. The flash units are probably 10 years old. Do they just dry out and then short out? Thanks.Capacitors can dry out and short, causing them to explode. Reverse polarity and over-voltage will also cause them to explode.

messenger13
Jan 22nd, 2007, 9:33 pm
What's ADHD? And, what's PTSD? Just in case I have them also?Attention Deficit Hyperactivity Disorder
Post-Traumatic Stress Disorder

jayjacobson
Jan 23rd, 2007, 6:38 am
BTW, on the sig line: - just Joe,A.D.D., A.D.H.D., O.C.D., P.T.S.D. What's ADHD? And, what's PTSD? Just in case I have them also?
Look, Joe's just bragging again!