Replacing Shocks

[CharlieK]

I'm getting ready to replace the shocks and was wondering if there is any little tricks that will make it go smoother. The rear looks pretty straight forward but the front I'm not sure about. I haven't had the tupperware off in a while so I can't remember just what it looks like under there. Ant ideas would be appreciated.

[hdfan]

Here is the best tip I can find. Ride to Tacoma Wa and ask for Brian. :) He did an awesome job helping me install mine. Helping me, what am I thinking, he did an awesome job putting mine in while I held the light. Thanks Brian. It appears much more intimidating than it is. Yes there are a few things to look out for and I am sure that the great folks on this site will fill you in. So thanks again Brian and good luck Charlie, you will do fine.

[sanjaun2]

Thanks for the Kind words there Ken, You seem to be a very quick learner with a memory much better than mine!!! Charlie, Its a pretty easy job if you take your time. Key points that come to mind is to secure the center stand from collapsing.(large zip ties or parachute cord) It can and will collapse.... Don't ask me how I know this. Remove the rear shock first and leave it out till after changing out the front. Most people hog out the lip on the front swingarm? to get better clearance to remove and reinstall the front shock. I can post a pic tonight if no one else does before I get home. Swapping shocks can be done by one person but much nicer with a helper to assist and keep you on track.

[zaphod]

Brians tips are spot on. It's a time consuming job but really not that hard. There is a good install doc by David Major at http://www.bmwlt.net/ubbthreads/downloadattachments.php?attach_id=7319?Cat=

[tmgs]

I'm getting ready to replace the shocks and was wondering if there is any little tricks that will make it go smoother. The rear looks pretty straight forward but the front I'm not sure about. I haven't had the tupperware off in a while so I can't remember just what it looks like under there. Ant ideas would be appreciated.


it is a piece of cake, do not worry. if your in the middle of it and run into a issue just post here someone will help

little tricks are good tricks look for a post I made (tmgs) I did it without taking the ball joint loose or grinding on anything, drop your front calipers remove the nuts holding the lines to the forks leave your rear shock off, take your front shock top nut off use a bottle jack under the front of engine and raise the bike untill the front shock will drop down far enough to reach up and take the lower rubber bushing off the top stud, remove your lower shock bolt then slide the shock back up through the top hole pull the bottom forward and it will come right out, see piece of cake! I do have a lift, i lefthe bike on the center stand the whole time, I did have the front forks strapped on each side

Tom

[sanjaun2]

Here is the pics of the area that you grind down and repaint when done. Its directly in front of the shock and enables you easier shock removal and replacement.

[sanjaun2]

Tmgs, I had not heard about that shortcut, Maybe next time.... I do know its fun to reach up there and remove the rubber bushing with the shock still in place. Using the grinding method the shock just about falls out with the bushing still in place. The real truth is I am an electrician and jump at the chance to use them big old power tools!

[SeaMarshal]

Charlie - earlier this year Patterson and I installed our Ohlin's. I'd be glad to give you a hand if you need it. I live out in Fall City.

[HarvRead]

Thanks for the Kind words there Ken, You seem to be a very quick learner with a memory much better than mine!!! Charlie, Its a pretty easy job if you take your time. Key points that come to mind is to secure the center stand from collapsing.(large zip ties or parachute cord) It can and will collapse.... Don't ask me how I know this. Remove the rear shock first and leave it out till after changing out the front. Most people hog out the lip on the front swingarm? to get better clearance to remove and reinstall the front shock. I can post a pic tonight if no one else does before I get home. Swapping shocks can be done by one person but much nicer with a helper to assist and keep you on track.
Brian, doesn't this weaken the Telelever? That lip looks pretty purpose-built.

[tmgs]

Tmgs, I had not heard about that shortcut, Maybe next time.... I do know its fun to reach up there and remove the rubber bushing with the shock still in place. Using the grinding method the shock just about falls out with the bushing still in place. The real truth is I am an electrician and jump at the chance to use them big old power tools!


hehehehehe, I'm a mechanic (er was before the accident),
I look for the fastest way. It's a piece of cake, I had a control arm bend on mine hitting a pothole, I'm not grinding on nothing up there and chancing making it weaker.

[graydude]

I've completed the removal and install of two sets of shocks. I never found it necessary to to any grinding. The key is letting the forks telescope all the way down to their stops. Make sure you remove the brake lines where they attach to the front forks. If you don't they will hinder the forks coming all the way down and you stand a good chance of breaking the brake line. The top rubber bushing of the shock has to come off so you can then push the top of then shoch all the way back up into the shock tower. Dainty or small hands are most welcome at getting the bushing off the top of the shock. At this point, you can then pull the bottom of the shock towards you and clear of the bottome swingarm. I've found it easiest to remove the gas tank to gain access to the top shock nut. This is why I've always done my shock exchanges in 12K internvals since you have the tank out anyway. I respect my fellow wrenchers here but I have always found this to be a full day job since all the tupperware has to come off if you're going to remove the tank. Certainly for the rear shock, all the right side tupperware has to come off. Again, the rear shock has it's upper mounting in a location that's almost under the gas tank. If you have the tank off, it's a breeze. If not, it's a bitch to remove the shock nut and bolt.

[tmgs]

I've completed the removal and install of two sets of shocks. I never found it necessary to to any grinding. The key is letting the forks telescope all the way down to their stops. Make sure you remove the brake lines where they attach to the front forks. If you don't they will hinder the forks coming all the way down and you stand a good chance of breaking the brake line. The top rubber bushing of the shock has to come off so you can then push the top of then shoch all the way back up into the shock tower. Dainty or small hands are most welcome at getting the bushing off the top of the shock. At this point, you can then pull the bottom of the shock towards you and clear of the bottome swingarm. I've found it easiest to remove the gas tank to gain access to the top shock nut. This is why I've always done my shock exchanges in 12K internvals since you have the tank out anyway. I respect my fellow wrenchers here but I have always found this to be a full day job since all the tupperware has to come off if you're going to remove the tank. Certainly for the rear shock, all the right side tupperware has to come off. Again, the rear shock has it's upper mounting in a location that's almost under the gas tank. If you have the tank off, it's a breeze. If not, it's a bitch to remove the shock nut and bolt.

if you use a long 3/8" extension (i have a 24" I use) and a wobble socket (not a universal joint type) the top rear shock nut can be accessed from the left side of the bike easily and saves removing the tank

of course I do not need to remove my gas tank for services any longer since I have a external air and fuel filter installed, soooo ymmv

tom

[drmajor]

Charlie,
It's an interesting job.

if you like, call me.

I saw where one ground down the A Frame- NOT NEEDED! IF you know the secret!!!

I fought mine for a day and then called Klause (Wilbers) and it all made sense.

The front shock has a washer and gromment on top. That's the issue that makes the old shock not want to come off. It is also part of the secret to getting the new one on....

You have to take most of the plastic off to where you can get at the top bolt, just in front of the Sting Ray. Once you get to the bolt, remote the nut-------BE CAREFULLLLLL. It's easy to drop the nut/washer down into the bowels of the bike....Ask me how I know!

Remove the bottom bolt also. Now you will notice that the shock does not want to come off. The reason- the grommet and washer make the assembly too long.

For this step- hope you don't have size 12 hands like me... reach up to the top of the shock - from the bottom. You should be able to feel the washer/grommet. Carefully slide them off the top of the shock....Carefully. I learned the hard way here too.

Once you have them off, slide the entire shock as high as possible back up into the upper mount hole- bingo- the shock will now come out the bottom, and then tilt and slide out the top.

INTALLATION-- is the reverse....DO NOT PUT THE WASHER/GROMMET back on the shock yet. Slide the top of the shock high into the mount hole. This should allow the bottom to move into position. Then slide the shock as low as possible down between the "A" frame. This should give you room to put the washer/grommet on the top.

Then, move the top of the shock up into it's hole and loosly put the upper nut/washer on (on top of the mount hole).

Now install the bottom mounting point.

Be sure to have a torque wrench and check all torques.

If you'll send me your e-mail, I think I think have the photos of mine.

Good Luck...

for some people, this is a 2-3 cigar job-

[drmajor]

Photo of Wilber vs Stock.
Big difference than stock!!!!

[graydude]

if you use a long 3/8" extension (i have a 24" I use) and a wobble socket (not a universal joint type) the top rear shock nut can be accessed from the left side of the bike easily and saves removing the tank

of course I do not need to remove my gas tank for services any longer since I have a external air and fuel filter installed, soooo ymmv

tom

Getting the nut off is not so bad. Trying to put it back on is the killer unless you have fingers like Mickey Rooney.

[drmajor]

Yeh, I can't tell you how many times I dropped them. My size 12 does not belong in such places.

[BEhrler]

it is a piece of cake, do not worry. if your in the middle of it and run into a issue just post here someone will help

little tricks are good tricks look for a post I made (tmgs) I did it without taking the ball joint loose or grinding on anything, drop your front calipers remove the nuts holding the lines to the forks leave your rear shock off, take your front shock top nut off use a bottle jack under the front of engine and raise the bike untill the front shock will drop down far enough to reach up and take the lower rubber bushing off the top stud, remove your lower shock bolt then slide the shock back up through the top hole pull the bottom forward and it will come right out, see piece of cake! I do have a lift, i lefthe bike on the center stand the whole time, I did have the front forks strapped on each side

Tom

Did you remove the front wheel and fender as described elsewhere. It almost looks as if you don't have to. Thanks for your input.
Butch

[sanjaun2]

You do not need to remove the fender and front tire, I did remove the fender only to protect it from getting scratched. It only took me a minute or two to grind the lip on the "A" frame and another 15 seconds to repaint it. The frame is very beefy and the small amount of material removed will be never missed. Especially when you do not have to mess around dropping the rubber bushing and scuffing your knuckles trying to take it off and on while the shock is in place, It makes future removals and adjustments a breeze.

[tmgs]

Did you remove the front wheel and fender as described elsewhere. It almost looks as if you don't have to. Thanks for your input.
Butch


no, like I said the front end was strapped down to the lift