View Full Version : Topcase Lid Latch pin wearing
cfell
Oct 27th, 2006, 1:10 pm
Howdy..
I noticed the following wear pattern on my Topcase Lid Latch pins: http://www.bmwlt.com/gallery/files/5/8/0/3/DSC01373Small_thumb.jpg
or
http://www.bmwlt.com/gallery/files/5/8/0/3/DSC01373Small_thumb.jpg
cfell
Oct 27th, 2006, 1:19 pm
The "fix" is to replace the entire topcase.... !!!
I have other ideas... how about you?
astuber
Oct 27th, 2006, 1:20 pm
Mine has the same wear pattern. But then, the dealer had to replace the latch mechanism too. I am going to try to file down the latch hooks to see if it makes any difference.
meese
Oct 27th, 2006, 2:12 pm
The pins are the same part as used on the K11 bikes, which are available separately. It's probably worth polishing out the latch hooks as well.
bob_menton
Oct 27th, 2006, 2:15 pm
It's in the FAQ, guys, originally posted by me years ago. The top case pins for the LT are not called out as separate parts in the K12LT parts book - but they ARE called out as separate parts in the K11LT parts book, and they're exactly the same pins. Couple bux each, as I recall, plus an additional 10 cents each if you also want the e-clips that hold the pin in place.
- Bob
cfell
Oct 27th, 2006, 2:22 pm
Thanks Bob!
I used "search" and never got it to show.. my goof.
P/N 46-54-2-316-317 Pin $1.65 ea.
P/N 07-11-9-932-815 E-clip $0.10 ea.
Here is the link..
http://www.bmwlt.net/ubbthreads/showthreaded.php?Cat=&Board=K1200LT&Number=37781&page=12&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=0&vc=1
Peace...O, and yes, Meese, great idea to "polish" the hooks
bob_menton
Oct 27th, 2006, 4:30 pm
Thanks Bob!
I used "search" and never got it to show.. my goof.
P/N 46-54-2-316-317 Pin $1.65 ea.
P/N 07-11-9-932-815 E-clip $0.10 ea.
Here is the link..
http://www.bmwlt.net/ubbthreads/showthreaded.php?Cat=&Board=K1200LT&Number=37781&page=12&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=0&vc=1
Peace...O, and yes, Meese, great idea to "polish" the hooks
Take your time polishing the hooks - they're surprisingly hard for a cheap looking piece of metal.
- Bob
astuber
Oct 27th, 2006, 4:59 pm
Definitely polish the hooks. The latch mechanism will break long before the pins. If the pin breaks it's no big deal compared to the latch mechanism breaking.
HarvRead
Oct 27th, 2006, 7:49 pm
CFELL, be sure and read-up on "broken trunk latch plates" and take preventive action ASAP! The same force that is wearing grooves in your pins will (soon) break your latch plate!
Ric
Oct 27th, 2006, 9:14 pm
There is a ton of info regarding this problem. Best fix is to file/grind down the latch hooks a little at a time and try closing the lid. Eventually you will get to the point where the lid closes with little effort and with no wear and tear on the latch mech. Rick
kdog
Oct 27th, 2006, 10:04 pm
CFELL, be sure and read-up on "broken trunk latch plates" and take preventive action ASAP! The same force that is wearing grooves in your pins will (soon) break your latch plate!
Not necessarily. I've had half-sawn-though pins in my trunk for 100K miles, and I've not broken my trunk latch. In my case, they wore like that very early on during the life of the bike, then stopped wearing. I think it's more of a metalurgy problem than a friction problem. I think the best thing you can do for the longevity of your latch is to press down on the top of the trunk whenever you open or close it. That unloads almost all the pressure off the latch.
Regards,
-joel
gulfxray
Oct 27th, 2006, 10:14 pm
For those that have filed their latches....
Do you have a picture/template you could share or give me/us some idea of about how much had to come off and where?
TIA...
Daveh
Oct 28th, 2006, 8:36 am
If you search the old forum for trunk latch you will find Mark Neblett's post with pictures on how much to grind off. I tried to copy and paste the link, no luck though.
Bankerboy
Oct 28th, 2006, 8:44 am
I put my pins in the trusty electric drill and held a file and took them to half their size to eliminate pressure. Seems to work great and I would sooner replace a broken pin than the latch.
ksailor
Oct 28th, 2006, 5:28 pm
Dec. Channing:
I remove the locking mechanism and "C" clips and placed the latch lock hoods in a vice and ground down the inside according to Mark Neblett's instructions. Smooth closure and no more problems; makes closing the trunk lid easy and still waterproof. Used a dremmel tool with a grinding stone and took off about 1/8th inch.
Peace Bro...
cfell
Oct 29th, 2006, 9:06 pm
Thanks, y'all... I'm considering these steps in the near future.
I have been "pressing" down on the topcase while closing and up until recently had kept them lubed...about 2 months ago when I did my 12k maintenance I forgot to lube them...
I'm going to lube them and polish them first.. then see if the dealer will replace the topcase =)...
Nah... I'm just gonna show them the part numbers and see if they will make it a "warranty" replacement..
vBulletin v3.0.9, Copyright ©2000-2008, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.