Installing Wilbers. How hard is it?

[strsout]

I decided for Wilbers shocks for a replacement on my bike.

Now trying to decide: do it yourself or take to a dealer?

How complicated/hard/mechanical is to install it?

I didn't order the shocks yet. Is there any great difference on this options:
Model 640 @ $ 516.00
Model 641 @ $ 798.00
Options:
# 629 = infinite variable adjustable ride height +/- 1/2" for either model
front or back $ 78.00
# 625 = hydraulic pre-load adjuster for rear shock, to eliminate the
fiddling with the hook-wrench @ $ 211.00

Thank you

[zippy_gg]

Elton, it's an LT. Nothing is easy on an LT!:rolleyes:
Let me know when you get your shocks, I wouldn't mind assisting.

[motorhead]

Go to Pirates lair & get the #3 option
http://piratesk12site.net/
(http://www.pirateslair.com)

[zippy_gg]

Go to Pirates lair & get the #3 option

http://rds.yahoo.com/_ylt=A0oGkicuiS5FiqQAOwtXNyoA;_ylu=X3oDMTE1b3JhY2x1BGNvbG8DdwRsA1dTMQRwb3MDMwRzZWMDc3IEdnRpZANERlgxXzE-/SIG=11u4sauah/EXP=1160764078/**http%3a//www.piratesk12site.net/ProductS.htm
(http://www.pirateslair.com/)Scott, this is what I get from your link:
The Pirate's Lair specializes in custom graphics, apparel printing, and event gear. We service Sailing Regattas, Event Planning, Corporate Wear, School Spirit, and other venues where design, printing and websites are needed.

Our clothing products include T-Shirts, Polos, Caps, Vests, Jackets and other bags and baggage. Our technical gear includes: Douglas Gill, Platypus, Red Ledge, North Face, Columbia, and many others.

[motorhead]

Weird ...

Ok then, If dealing with Klaus at Wilbers dirrect, You want the 630 front, and the 640 rear with Preload adjuster option.

Adjustable ride height is not required IMO.

Lets try: www.run-n-lites.com (http://www.run-n-lites.com)

[strsout]

Go to Pirates lair & get the #3 option
http://piratesk12site.net/
(http://www.pirateslair.com)


This is the right address:
http://www.piratesk12site.net/

Your name is right, your link is not :) :)

[strsout]

Weird ...

Ok then, If dealing with Klaus at Wilbers dirrect, You want the 640 front, and the 641 rear with Preload adjuster option.

Adjustable ride height is not required IMO.

Lets try: www.run-n-lites.com


Scott,
That is a really good information.
I just sent e-mail to Klaus few minutes ago, just asking what you anwser here :)

Thank you
He also offer me the option # 625 = hydraulic pre-load adjuster for rear shock, to eliminate the
fiddling with the hook-wrench @ $ 211.00

What is that?

[motorhead]

Actually went & looked again

Front is the 630 with adjustable rebound
Rear the 640 with adjustable rebound & preload adjuster

Set should be @ $1200 or so

** The 641 shock has the compression & remote chamber, it is OVERKILL on an LT IMO

Let Klaus know you want the #3 option that was marketed by Pirates lair :)

Sorry for the confusion

[zaphod]

I dealt straight with Klaus, he is very knowledgeable and can help you decide on the options. I went all out with the Model 630 & 641 with option 625. I probably could have gotten away without the adjustable HIGH and LOW speed compression damping, but when spending that much for a quality suspension why not go all the way.

Installation was straightforward, the rear was almost easy, the front took a bit of cursing but wasn’t too bad. There are good instructions here http://www.bmwlt.net/ubbthreads/showthreaded.php?Cat=&Board=K1200LT&Number=184192&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=7

[strsout]

I dealt straight with Klaus, he is very knowledgeable and can help you decide on the options. I went all out with the Model 630 & 641 with option 625. I probably could have gotten away without the adjustable HIGH and LOW speed compression damping, but when spending that much for a quality suspension why not go all the way.

Installation was straightforward, the rear was almost easy, the front took a bit of cursing but wasn’t too bad. There are good instructions here http://www.bmwlt.net/ubbthreads/showthreaded.php?Cat=&Board=K1200LT&Number=184192&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=7


It's a great instructions.
Already printed and read. Looks like I can do it. :)

[drmajor]

The rear is relatively easy. I used a small jack to raise/lower the rear end to position the shock and mount.

Front is "fun". Klause's instructions are pretty good, but I apparently didn't catch it all.

The key is that the small grommet/donut and its washer that are on top of the shock needs to stay off the new one till you get in on. I tried with them on the Wilber and there is NO way it'll go on.

Solution- Insert the upper part of the shock up into the upper mount hole as far as it will go- WITH OUT THE GROMMET or WASHER!!.

Once you have the upper as far up as it will go, the lower section should move into place. Then, with your fingers [hopefully small] reach up into the upper housing area and put the grommet and washer on, then move it back up through the mount hole. My fingers are size 12 so this was less than easy. There is a spare washer some where in the frame.


Really not too bad once you figure this out.

[graydude]

Elton,

I just finished my Wilbers install last week. I took them off my 02 and sent them to Klaus for rebuild. I then took my stock units off the 06 and put the Wilbers on. I'm a pretty good wrencher and I will tell you it's not a technically difficult job, but unless you've done this several times, it will require the entire weekend. You will need to remove right side and left side tupperware compeletly. The upper shock mount for the rear is tough. I waited until my 12K when I had the tank off to reach the bolt. It's a major PITA with the tank on. Since I've now installed/removed the shocks twice, I found it easier to remove the front tire, fender and steering dampener. You will need to remove the Stingray to access the top nut on the front strut. The manual wants you to remove the ball joint on the A-arm to the frame to drop the A arm. I did not find this necessary but you will need to install the front strut all the way up into the shock tower and then put the grommet on. Let me know when you get ready and I'll try to help out.

Here is what the carcass looks like before the new shocks were installed :eek:

[meese]

It helps to pull the rear shock first, then pull the front. Then put in the new front, then the new rear last. When we did my Ohlins, Ernie ground a bit of the lip off the front of the Telelever to make the install easier, and also easier to remove the shocks for rebuild later.

And make sure that you tie the center stand forward (like to the tip over bars) to prevent it from possibly folding up as you push and pull the shocks in place. Can't be too careful there (right, Brian? :D).

[strsout]

Todd.... !!!

you 'demolished' the whole bike for the shocks :) :) :) :)

How do you like the Wilberts?

As soon as I decided on Wilberts, I start reading that many people here decided on the Ohlins... life is not easy. :( :(


I will drop you a PM as soon as I have the shocks with me, but it will take 4 to 8 weeks by Klaus schedule...

[graydude]

I've only owned Wilbers so I guess I like them. The install will go alot easier if you have a major 12 or 24K service you have to do. My bike looks that way because that's where you have to bring it to do the major services. Looks ugly. Can't figure out whyI have so many screws left over. :confused:

[Steve_R]

I've only owned Wilbers so I guess I like them. The install will go alot easier if you have a major 12 or 24K service you have to do. My bike looks that way because that's where you have to bring it to do the major services. Looks ugly. Can't figure out whyI have so many screws left over. :confused:If you've got screws left over you can send them my way, because everytime I put Rover back together, I need more. :eek: :p