View Full Version : Trunk Latch Broken
lvahl
Oct 21st, 2005, 8:09 pm
OK, I messed up and was not proactive on the trunk Latch issue. The handle is now broken in the upper left corner and it will only open the lid if you hold your tounge in the perfect position.
Anybody have the part numbers and a guess at the cost? Then, after I replace the parts, what should I do to prevent another problem?
(yes, I tried a search first, but think it was on the old forum much earlier).
2000 LTC
Lowell
bustedknuckles
Oct 21st, 2005, 8:19 pm
Indiviual parts are not available to make repairs to the trunk latch assy. You must replace the trunk completely or find the parts from salvage. :(
buffalo
Oct 22nd, 2005, 3:36 am
What is the average price for that part from a junk yard ? I'm looking for one too...
lvahl
Oct 22nd, 2005, 7:52 am
thanks for the reply...doesn't sound good. I will start checking around here on Monday.
Lowell
buffalo
Oct 22nd, 2005, 5:01 pm
Dear Ivahl,
Please keep us posted about your searches.
Cheers,
Pierre-Alain
lavamanz
Oct 22nd, 2005, 7:55 pm
if the latch is only broken on one side, see if you can get it open and remove the pin from that side. It worked for me, only latching on one side now but I'm able to live with it.
dougholck
Oct 22nd, 2005, 8:08 pm
Just before WEB-SITE switchover there was a post where someone was investigating making heavy-duty handle replacements (check archives).
My trunk handle broke upper right corner. Removed the top lid pin so not to get locked out.
Dealer replaced entire lower trunk under warranty.
This is another of those things that does not add up quality wise on a top line brand machine and to not have a handle replacement part just makes no sense????
Doug Holck
bmwrider79
Oct 22nd, 2005, 10:38 pm
I was one of 2 or 3 guys looking into the manufacturing of these latches. Some one donated a broken one as a pattern.
I manage a CNC machine shop. We are qualified to make them, the problem is machine time. and actual cost to produce. The front visual surface is curved like if you sliced the top of a basketball off. It is spherical.
This in its self is not difficult to machine but some what time consuming cut time well over 1 hour to get a good finish anyway.
Then there is the finish of the part. Powdercoat is easy and reasonable, satin chrome or chrome is whole other matter. Might be cost prohibitive.
If 10 guys line up I will come up with a price and offer for sale. I will need 10 serious customers first. with 1/3 down. This would be done as a minimal profit venture to help out fellow LTer's This would be one per paying customer. No reselling for profit. That would negate the purpose of helping out others here.
It would take 3 to 4 weeks to get 10 thru the shop. Could not interfere with regualr business.
Send a PM if serious.
Zotter
Oct 22nd, 2005, 11:10 pm
Last time I asked for interested parties, I easily had 10 folks respond - considering how many others may not have posted in a "wait 'n see" mindset I can only assume there are many more.
I've a guy in Texas who runs a CNC shop that's been working on a replacement as well. So far no real $$ invested - I've a lower trunk that was partialy burned in an accident going down to Evan so he can complete his design. He's got my broken latch and as soon as I remove the bent, but intact latch from this burned out lower, it's on it's way. If you can come up with one before we do, go for it!! There's plenty of demand to go around.
There've been many start a project like this - there were even pictures on the old site of a prototype - no one's produced any for sale, yet. Whoever does first will have the un-ending gratitude of LT owners everywhere. Make it happen! :up:
mjordans2000
Oct 22nd, 2005, 11:24 pm
I remain interested. Whoever decides to make them has my order.
bmwrider79
Oct 22nd, 2005, 11:37 pm
Ok gentlemen, I will provide a quote next week for machining only.
Finish will TBD by demand. How do you all feel about painting them yourselves? I could provide them clear anodized or irridited so paint would stick.
Opinions welcome at this time concerning finish.
As a thought if they were anodized black they could be laser etched. Most any cad drawing could be done. A extra cost and lead time would apply.
Copyright laws would apply here. no Roundel BMW logos
A spot (round pocket) could be made for a small self stick roundel though!
lvahl
Oct 23rd, 2005, 8:20 am
Mike,
I am interested. Email me with the price. As far as finish, I am not sure, what would be good. I really don't have a source for painting it, so ready to install might be best for me.
Lowell
Lynn_Keen
Oct 23rd, 2005, 8:27 am
if the latch is only broken on one side, see if you can get it open and remove the pin from that side. It worked for me, only latching on one side now but I'm able to live with it.
I think Joe's got the right idea here. Back in '99 when the latch handle broke on my then 4 month old Canyon Red the lower trunk half was replaced under warranty. When I got the bike back I immediately removed the locking pin from the left side top trunk. Never had any more problems. I just purchased a used '05 LT and noticed the trunk latch had that same "gritty" feel to it when latching. So, the first thing I did to it was remove the left side locking pin. Problem solved. Oh yea, the 'ol '99 ran for 93,000 miles with only one latching pin and never came un-locked. Seems like a simple and most importantly, really cheap fix.
bmwrider79
Oct 23rd, 2005, 12:13 pm
After the dealer replaced my unit I closely examined the device. Th culprit is the 2 latches that hook the 2 pins on the top case. The finish on them is dog rough.
I took a dremel and put a real smooth finish on the underside where they contact the 2 pins. Now they have a polished finish on them. Much smoother operation.
From my own examination of the problem here is what I discern.
1 the rough surface on the bottom grabbers deteriorates the pins.
2 the added friction then causes undue stress on the handle
3 over time the repetitive nature of the stress on the handle it just fails.
Knowing something about die cast dies. ( I am a Mold and Die Maker by trade) A 3 hour fix on the die could add the much needed extra metal needed to make the latch handle unbreakable.
This just plain stubbornness on behalf of BMW not to fix this problem from the get go.
Pricing is forth coming.
HarvRead
Oct 25th, 2005, 3:56 pm
I paid $275 for a latch from Re-Psycle.com
bmwrider79
Oct 25th, 2005, 11:41 pm
Harve;
Did that include all the latches, springs and clips or just the latch component?
Just curious
meese
Oct 26th, 2005, 4:18 pm
Have you thought about just making the face of the handle flat? Curved to match the trunk profile is nice, but is it necessary? That may save you some machining time (and cost). Also, I would assume that just a simple black anodize or powder coat would be sufficient, and much easier than the customer trying to paint it at home.
I understand the possibility of custom finishes, or even engraving some cool logo, but I think if you could just produce a standard part that fits and works for a reasonable price, that you would have people lining up to buy them.
Holy Cow
Oct 26th, 2005, 5:57 pm
After the dealer replaced my unit I closely examined the device. Th culprit is the 2 latches that hook the 2 pins on the top case. The finish on them is dog rough.
Since I have only had my '99 for about a week, I really didn't know what you all were talking about with the rough finish. The previous owner did caution me to push down on the trunk lid when latching it to eliminate undue stress on the latches.
So, I went and looked at mine at lunch. The left pin is worn about 1/2 way through. The right pin looks like new. From what I have gathered in this thread, the problem only seems to come form the left latch pin.
Any idea why it is only the left one that is having problems?
My though would be to blue the left hand latch with Dykem and gradually grind away until it doesn't bite into the latch pin.
I agree with bmwrider79 that the surface is rough, but I think that is only half of it. If it was just the roughness, then both latch pins would be worn. I think the left latch is doing all the work in pulling the trunk lid down, which seems more like an alignment problem to me, a very consistent alignment problem.
speedy
Oct 26th, 2005, 7:41 pm
You can count me in on a handle.
Anodized black is fine by me. Keep it simple. I'm not one for a lot of show, just funtion!
The top L corner broke last weekend on my '99 with 112k on it. So that case has been opened/shut a gazillion times.
The cheapest I found for a used lower 1/2 of the case used in a different color than my Basalt is $150 & then more $ to have it painted to match.
Chris
bmwrider79
Oct 27th, 2005, 12:46 pm
Ok gentlemen We did the math for 10 at a time we figured it be about $165.00 at the most. If a flat back is OK then it will be less.
We will be starting to make some in the next couple of weeks. End of november completion.
Finish to be black powdercoat or black anodized.
Actual manufacturing cost to be tallied and final cost will not exceed $165.00 if all goes well it will be less.
I will need a chicago area fellow LTer in need of one to test fit one. So let me know
bmwrider79
Oct 27th, 2005, 12:58 pm
Gentlemen;
Based on emails and posts, next week I will set up pre orders and a way for a deposit thru pay pal or mail order.
Deposit will be $75.00, the remainder ( amount TBD not to exceede $165.00) to be paid before delivery.
Will be off the board till Sunday night
I will need a Chicago area broken latch and trunk to test fit the first prototype. Shipping a case would be expensive and we need a case to do this. I am not taking apart mine it was just fixed under warranty.
A $25.00 discount to that person.
Back to you all Sunday night.
Zotter
Oct 27th, 2005, 2:50 pm
I'd be MORE than happy to test fit one for ya as well.
4ridin
Oct 27th, 2005, 8:40 pm
I'm in if someone can actually make one. I've seen numerous posts but no one has ever done more than talk. Hey it's only money after all.
Hilton
Oct 28th, 2005, 5:40 am
Mark Neblett posted a fix ( one of several alternatives ) a while back which used a dremel to reshape the latch and lessen the force required to lock the top case. Still retained enough force to seal the rubber. May help to prevent a broken handle. How is the mod going Mark? Cheers
emsweeney
Oct 28th, 2005, 5:50 am
I used Mark's template and did the same to my 2003. I'm still amazed at the ease the trunk opens and closes!
Gene Sweeney
edonthenet
Oct 28th, 2005, 6:39 am
Sounds like a good idea. Does anyone have the link of the template?
Jinks
Oct 28th, 2005, 6:50 am
Since I have only had my '99 for about a week, I really didn't know what you all were talking about with the rough finish. The previous owner did caution me to push down on the trunk lid when latching it to eliminate undue stress on the latches.
So, I went and looked at mine at lunch. The left pin is worn about 1/2 way through. The right pin looks like new. From what I have gathered in this thread, the problem only seems to come form the left latch pin.
Any idea why it is only the left one that is having problems?
My though would be to blue the left hand latch with Dykem and gradually grind away until it doesn't bite into the latch pin.
A lot of us have found that the "press down on the top" trick only works for a while. Then the latch breaks anyway..........
New pins can be purchased from your dealer. The part #'s are for a different bike, but can be found on the old LT list.
Your thoughts about grinding down the latch appears to be the way to go. When my first latch broke I took the new one apart, clamped the latch arms in a vice & filed 'em down. I stopped & reassembled several times to check the tension, but wound up with a very smooth, low pressure latch. Still tight enough to keep moisture out, but no strain on the latch at all.
Jinks
Oct 28th, 2005, 6:57 am
So, I went and looked at mine at lunch. The left pin is worn about 1/2 way through. The right pin looks like new. From what I have gathered in this thread, the problem only seems to come form the left latch pin.
Just found this on another thread courtesy of Bob Menton:
46-54-2-316-317 Pin ($1.65 ea.)
07-11-9-932-815 E-clip ($0.10 ea.)
bushj1
Oct 28th, 2005, 7:58 am
The mod I did took all of an hour to do -- so easy it was a no brainer:
1) I took out the bottom case liner.
2) The latches and the bar they are attached to are held in with 4 small 'C' clamps on the end of 4 pins. I removed them and put the individual latches in a vice.
3) I used a small grinding wheel with a chordless drill and ground the surface down that goes over the top of the latch pins on the top box.
4) It took a couple of trial and error times to grind the appropriate amount off.
5) I used a grinding wheel so that a uniform surface was left versus using a dremel stone.
6) Once I got the appropriate a mount ground off, I used a dremel stone to smooth out the curvature of the "C" in the latch.
7) I reassemled, put a dab of silicone grease on the contact surfaces and lubed the pivot points that were accessable.
The latch now closes with a "very" light touch and is still waterproff as I got caught in rain Sunday coming back from the Lake Of The Ozarks - 3 hour ride.
Dezrae
Oct 28th, 2005, 3:55 pm
Silly question.
Has any body tried to repair the latches with something like Devcon (liquid steel) or JB weld??
wcarter
Nov 8th, 2005, 11:58 am
I happened to notice the lower half of a K12LT topcase for sale on eBay last night. The item number is 4588192235. The photos appear to show an intact latch mechanism but you may want to email the seller to be sure.
Auction ends early afternoon on November 12. Only one bid ($1.00) right now; shipping $25.00.
The top left corner of my latch broke this year, but I pulled the pin and am getting by OK with half a lock. This might be a deal for someone, though.
Dman
Nov 8th, 2005, 4:31 pm
If you look really, really close at the picture, it appears that the top left corner of the latch handle is broken on that one too. (Darn)
Ted_A
Nov 13th, 2005, 8:17 am
Mike G:
I'm in Evanston and am looking for a Trunk Latch fix! Please PM me if you are still looking for a local bike to do a test fit.
Dman:
Yup, I emailed the eBay'er a question re: the broken corner and he amended his eBay listing to disclose that defect.
blueeye
Dec 30th, 2006, 12:28 pm
I need 1 for a 2002 LT, willing to meet your terms if cost isn't prohibitive. I'm in Central Texas.
I was one of 2 or 3 guys looking into the manufacturing of these latches. Some one donated a broken one as a pattern.
I manage a CNC machine shop. We are qualified to make them, the problem is machine time. and actual cost to produce. The front visual surface is curved like if you sliced the top of a basketball off. It is spherical.
This in its self is not difficult to machine but some what time consuming cut time well over 1 hour to get a good finish anyway.
Then there is the finish of the part. Powdercoat is easy and reasonable, satin chrome or chrome is whole other matter. Might be cost prohibitive.
If 10 guys line up I will come up with a price and offer for sale. I will need 10 serious customers first. with 1/3 down. This would be done as a minimal profit venture to help out fellow LTer's This would be one per paying customer. No reselling for profit. That would negate the purpose of helping out others here.
It would take 3 to 4 weeks to get 10 thru the shop. Could not interfere with regualr business.
Send a PM if serious.
deputy5211
Dec 30th, 2006, 3:32 pm
Gentlemen;
Based on emails and posts, next week I will set up pre orders and a way for a deposit thru pay pal or mail order.
Deposit will be $75.00, the remainder ( amount TBD not to exceede $165.00) to be paid before delivery.
Will be off the board till Sunday night
I will need a Chicago area broken latch and trunk to test fit the first prototype. Shipping a case would be expensive and we need a case to do this. I am not taking apart mine it was just fixed under warranty.
A $25.00 discount to that person.
Back to you all Sunday night.
I'd be interested. PayPal is not a problem.
sheldan2
Dec 30th, 2006, 4:06 pm
mine broke in exactly the same spot, called Fred Rowland at [url]www.cyclesrecycled.com 828-433-1067, got one shipped out the next day. He might have one in stock if you cant wait to get one built
Zeke
Dec 30th, 2006, 4:07 pm
Guys;
Do a search with the word latch(on this site) and down a bit you will see a sight called simple coffee or something like that. There is a sight that sells the latches for 200$. Look there first.
Just trying to help.
Zeke
Dick
Dec 30th, 2006, 4:22 pm
Guys;
Do a search with the word latch(on this site) and down a bit you will see a sight called simple coffee or something like that. There is a sight that sells the latches for 200$. Look there first.
Just trying to help.
Zeke
And here's another one of our site sponsors (http://millenhaus.com/shop/index.php) that enjoys helping out the LT community with regard to the broken trunk latches. HTH.
SilverBuffalo
Dec 30th, 2006, 6:40 pm
I've got a complete latch mechanism that I took out of my 02,
with the modification as described in post # 29 already done.
If any of y'all are interested PM me.
jeffhoyt
Dec 30th, 2006, 6:49 pm
My trunk handle broke right upper corner. But continues to work in a
normal operation. But id be interested in a cheaper fix too!!
Zotter
Dec 31st, 2006, 1:03 am
Well, Jeff - cheaper would be a salvaged OEM handle. They're cheap alright, that's why you hear of so many of them breaking all the time. You may get lucky and find one that's not broken at a bike salvage yard - like beemerboneyard.com - but they tend to go VERY fast, gotta be quick on the email to get 'em. Often they come into the salvage yards already broken.
Millenhaus
Dec 31st, 2006, 1:06 am
Yes, we have them ready to ship.
http://millenhaus.com for details, pictures and installation instructions.
Motomadman
Jan 1st, 2007, 8:28 pm
And my millenhaus latch still works far better and easier than the OEM. If you find another OEM it will just break again... Spend the money and end the vicious cycle....
hiyosilverLT
Sep 29th, 2008, 12:53 pm
Couldn't get Millenhaus in timely fashion. Got a latch kit from Michael Gore at 3R Plastics. Well pleased with results. Works great.
GDRDoc
Sep 29th, 2008, 4:45 pm
I have the solution to your trunk latch problem and it won't cost you $800. I had the same problem and found the problem and had the latch repaired. Send me an e-mail at gdeabl@charter.net or leave a post here.
azredline
Sep 29th, 2008, 10:59 pm
Anybody got a pic of a broken one? Mine works ok, but I'd like to see what is breaking so I know what to look for.
Thanks in advance.
azredline
Sep 29th, 2008, 11:08 pm
Yes, we have them ready to ship.
http://millenhaus.com for details, pictures and installation instructions.
Better check your website, I tried all your links and couldn't get through tonight.
fernfern
Sep 30th, 2008, 1:45 pm
Anybody got a pic of a broken one? Mine works ok, but I'd like to see what is breaking so I know what to look for.
Thanks in advance.
Hello.
About two years ago I've the same problem, and thanks to a member of the forum (bmwrider79) I've bought him a new Trunk Latch.
As I said in another post, his part is a very good part because corrects the mistakes of BMW and I suppose it will never broke.
I join three pictures of broken trunks, one is mine (01) and others are from compatriots (02 and 03).
If need any help, send a message :)
Regards
gladiator99
Sep 30th, 2008, 5:30 pm
As my bike is fairly new, would it help to just grind or smooth out the latch to make the operation much smoother and put a little less pressure on the pins? I'd like to attend to this before a problem develops.
Can this be done without removing the latches from the case?
Jim
:toast:
GDRDoc
Sep 30th, 2008, 7:19 pm
What you have to do is completely disassemble the latching mechanism. Once you do that, you need to elongate the holes in the arm on the side you broke your handle, providing it broke on the left or right. It broke because the design is flawed. The latches are over center too far, thus creating stress on the latch mechanism on the plate. Once you have it all apart, have someone TIG weld the part on the latch plate it for you. JB weld, Crazy Glue will not work. Trust me I know. What you have to do, is make the latch have a lot of play in the open position so when you close the latch (once you get it welded), it won't have excessive stress on the latch plate.
The person that did the repair for me, is willing to do the repairs on these latches to save the $800.00 it costs for a new top cover. He will get back with me soon.
If you need any more info, please feel free contact me.
GDRDoc
Sep 30th, 2008, 7:22 pm
lowell,
What you have to do is completely disassemble the latching mechanism. Once you do that, you need to elongate the holes in the arm on the side you broke your handle,
providing it broke on the left or right. It broke because the design is flawed. The latches are over center too far, thus creating stress on the latch mechanism on the plate. Once you have it all apart, have someone TIG weld the part on the latch plate it for you. JB weld, Crazy Glue will not work. Trust me I know. What you have to do, is make the latch have a lot of play in the open position so when you close the latch (once you get it welded), it won't have excessive stress on the latch plate.
I'm working with a friend of mine that did the repair on my latch to see if will do others on the side.
If you need any more info, please feel free contact me.
BilletsGalore
Oct 1st, 2008, 2:20 pm
Hello, my name is Evan. I designed and manufactured 100 kits for Millenhaus. He's been super swamped in his life's dealings and hasn't given the product the attention it deserves.
Millenhaus has boxed up my remaining inventory and is supposed to ship it to me any day. I won't know until I get it back. Hopefully, I'll have a rich inventory of latch kits for sale very soon.
Thanks,
Evan
evan@evanguy.com
GlennM86
Oct 1st, 2008, 3:03 pm
Evan,
What do you anticipate as the selling price?
BilletsGalore
Oct 2nd, 2008, 10:09 am
$360 USD plus $15 shipping/handling....Thanks...
bemmerbiker
Oct 2nd, 2008, 7:18 pm
threerplastics.com - is another supplier of the latch for the top case. I think he need an order of the to make the next batch. I also think his price is around $275.00.
GDRDoc
Oct 3rd, 2008, 7:16 am
Look at the picture and see the larger hole in the latch. This is the hole that needs to be elongated a bit to reduce stress on the latch mechanism. Also, cut away a bit of the latch, too. All this is trial an error.
Don't use JB Weld or Crazy Glue as these wil not work. You need to have the latch plate TIG Welded. I'm working with a welder to see if he can do the repair for us BMW LT Guys at a reasonable price.
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