View Full Version : Centerstand often touch the ground !!!
Frenchy
Aug 4th, 2006, 1:39 am
Hey Guys
I don't know what to think about it :confused:
On dry road, I like to lean the beast a lot :o but the centerstand touches the ground a lot ! :mad:
I'm 230 and 5.7" and the RR shock is set 2 line after STD (that is 3 lines before MAX). I guess I could set it up on higher setting but I don't like the way it feels : too hard + I'm not sure it will really change the ground clearance...
Do you think it's time for new shocks (bike has 38k) or what ?
Thanks
Ares
Aug 4th, 2006, 2:28 am
At 38 k I would think about Wilers or Ohlins. :)
Also I would consider trimming the rubber bumpers on the center stand (by about half, or a little better) wih a razor blade.
Or, maybe don't lean quite so much.(lol) :D
TimVipond
Aug 4th, 2006, 5:25 am
Your shocks are 7 years old and I think the earlier models tend to drag a bit more. My 2000 drug its parts quite easily, yet I rarely drag my 2006. You are also 25 pounds heavier than I am.
It helps to keep increasing the preload, but eventually it becomes stiffened to the point that the rear wheel may lose contact with the road on moderate bumps causing wheel spin.
It also helps to hang off the bike on fast turns.
Back off the preload and see if you eventually get to a point where you feel very little resistance. This indicates you may need to top off the system with oil. Several threads talk about how to do this. It does seem to make a difference.
I didn't trim the rubber bumpers on the center stand, cause I thought it was neat dragging the centerstand, pegs and lower fairing and I felt I was nearing the limits so would back off a little on the next turn. I was afraid if I trimmed the rubber a little, I might be tempted to lean even further and wasn't sure I wanted to encourage myself to do that. Decreasing the amount of rubber would also lessen the "give" and instead of dragging a flexible part of the bike, you would be dragging a less flexible part and might decrease the weight on the rear tire. But many riders here have done that and I haven't heard any say they low sided because of it.
My rear shocks lasted 137,000 miles and its new owner has probably added quited a bit more and may not have changed out the rear shock yet. But if you are not happy with it, go ahead and change it. Everyone who has done it with an aftermarket says it was worth the $1,000 or so and 20-30,000 mile rebuilds. Keep the old shock so you can use it during the rebuild periods as I think they have to be shipped in and it could take weeks.
petevandyke
Aug 4th, 2006, 8:21 am
Sounds to me like you "might" be leaning to get through the turn too much and "countersteering" not enough (I only suggest this because I am guilty of that crime often).
This is a good link:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Countersteering (http://http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Countersteering)
On the bottom are links to about half a dozen articles on why countersteering can actually allow the bike to cut a much tighter diameter curve and not start "shootin' sparks" than just tilting the bike over, including specific articles from MSF and a couple race schools.
my two cents, feel free to give me change.
Pete
parishollow
Aug 4th, 2006, 8:32 am
took me to http://www.w3.org/Protocols/
is it just me?
messenger13
Aug 4th, 2006, 8:42 am
Frenchy, You're stock shocks are 'DONE'. They usually go between 20-30K. I highly recommend going with the Wilburs or Ohlins. I've ridden a bike with Wilburs, and the ride was amazing.
As for grinding hard parts...the LT's notorious for that. My footpegs are just about ground in two. Make sure you cut the centerstand's little rubber stoppers in half to buy you a little more lean angle.
Just remember, a controlled grind is not so bad. At least, not until you lift the rear wheel. Did that a few times and it is SCARY STUFF. I watched DaveDragon's LT get lifted and thrown into the oncoming lane :eek: while doing Deal's Gap (The Tail of the Dragon (http://www.tailofthedragon.com)). Fortunately, nobody was coming the other way. And he even has Wilburs!!!
The bottom line is: The LT has a limited lean angle...as all bikes do. Unfortunately for the LT, it comes sooner than us aggressive riders want it to. :(
Frenchy
Aug 4th, 2006, 9:01 am
My rear shocks lasted 137,000 miles
Frenchy, You're stock shocks are 'DONE'. They usually go between 20-30K.
Am I missing something here :confused:
What do you guys think about a fair trade on used very low miles stock shocks (it's not the time for me to buy Wilbers)
Frenchy
Aug 4th, 2006, 9:03 am
The LT has a limited lean angle...as all bikes do.
Sure they are, but it happens too much sooner on the Beemer. I think it's a pity considering the way it handles so great !
messenger13
Aug 4th, 2006, 9:19 am
I bought a front and rear OEM shock off eBay. Hardly used. In fact, the front had less than 100 miles, the rear had less than 500. Before I had a chance to install on my LT, I decided to sell the LT and buy the GT. So I sold the set to UncleRock and installed them for him at a tech session. $350 USD installed for the pair...a lot cheaper than aftermarket shocks. His LT had over 60K on it. He said that it felt 'like new' again.
BrianD
Aug 4th, 2006, 10:45 am
Hi Frenchy
I see you have the same model as I do. I also found it would hit on corners, especially in left hand corners.
Here is what you do to fix it. Get out your hobby/stanley work knife, put the bike on the center stand and look under it. You will see the two rubber bumpers there that the stand rests against when it is up. Take your work knife and cut those suckers down to half their height. You will find it does not bump and scrape so through corners now unless you really cane it.
petevandyke
Aug 4th, 2006, 10:50 am
try this on the link...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Countersteering
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