Coolant temp light and engine shut-down

[MolenaarD]

Just finished RhineWest and Remus install. Don't think I would have been able to complete the Remus install without the regular "hex-type" nuts I read about in one of the other threads. The stock exhaust has some nice bends that allow a ratchet extension to reach the old Torx nuts, but the Remus is not bent the same way and I had to tighten most of the nuts with a box-end wrench (after getting a feel for the right torque on some that I could reach).

Couldn't wait to take her out for a spin but only made about two miles before the temp gauge was just shy of the midpoint mark, the coolant temp light came on, and the engine died! Parked and waited a while for things to cool down, restarted the bike, headed in the direction of home, and drove until the same thing happened again. It took me three heat-up/die/cool-down/start cycles before I could coast the rest of the way home.

What have I done wrong? Did I reach the point of tupperware overload and space out completely? Should I limit the amount of time spent installing tupperware in one session?

Didi
99 LT "Gertie"

[MolenaarD]

It is somewhat surprising to see the number of people who have read this post without a single reply. I really am stumped. The manual suggests replacing the thermostat when the left radiator is warmer than the right and the hose to the water pump is warm (as it is).

It just surprises me that the thermostat would just suddenly go bad after I just finished riding 2800+ miles in five days (the last fifteen hours of which was in 100+ degree heat).

Does the fact that when the bike warms up and automatically shuts down, the radiator fans kick in help explain what is wrong?

Didi
99 K1200LT "Gertie"

[jackd]

If I were troubleshooting the problem the first thing I would do is take off the tupperware and look for unconnected plugs. Is there anything else that is not right? Lamps, switches, or gauges that could give you an idea of a common point.. It is possible that you connected two different circuits but if engineered correctly that should be next to impossible.. If you have a connection that is tight it might be a possibility though...

If I could not find any indication that you have a wiring error I would put back the BMW chip. I know that requires a teardown to get at the PCM but that quickly eliminates any possibility that you have a bad chip or a bad EPROM. Seems that what you have is a computer shutdown at normal operating point. Sounds like firmware or a sensor. If it still fails then you can start looking at broken wires or defective sensor.

If someone has a wiring schematic we can see what drives the coolant temp light. If it is a direct lite from the computer I would go to the chip backout.

JM2CW..

[sanjaun2]

We are not ignoring you, Most people here do not want to give you bad advice, You have an unusual problem and I have not heard of before. Good luck and hopefully somebody will have a good idea. I would start with Jack's advice.

[MolenaarD]

Thanks Jack.

I could use a little more time on the tupperware anyway. I did notice a picture in the manual that shows a temp sensor connection right by the O2 sensor connection inside the battery cover. As I was routing the O2 sensor wire after the Remus install I may have pulled this connector loose.

Everything else is working fine. If I determine it is NOT the thermostat I will be wondering why the troubleshooting flowchart clearly suggests replacement when the problem is actually something else.

Thank you again,

Didi
99 K1200LT "Gertie"

[MolenaarD]

Sorry for sounding so touchy Brian.

I appreciate the situation and will be following Jack's advice.

Didi
99 K1200LT "Gertie"

[kevincook]

It doesn't seem possible that your engine could actually heat up enough for the coolant to overheat in two miles. However, if the wires to the sensor are shorted before they reach the sensor that would become your new point of measurement for a thermocouple. If the short was near the engine or exhaust you could be reading the surface temperature of the engine or the exhaust somewhere. That would heat up much faster than the coolant temperature and could result in this type of behavior.

I don't know. It's just a guess and I have no idea if that wire is routed anywhere near the engine or not.

Good Luck,
Kevin

[grifscoots]

Did you seat the chip good without bending any of the leetle pins?

[usmctpdog]

If something is wrong * Right After * you worked on it or installed something I have found out in my long experience it was always something I had done and not a coincidence of fate colliding with timing.

Undo and inspect what you did. As mentioned, you might want to Re-check your work and inserting the stock BMW chip to discount the electronic component. *Thats what I would do. . .

[MolenaarD]

About that schematic, I just picked up my new Clymer today and sure enough...a straight line from the temp light to the Motronic at a point number "18".

I also checked wiring connections (including temp sensor) today and they were all tight.

I have reinstalled the factory chip in the Motronic and will reassemble in the morning. I am thinking bad chip...

Thank you all again for your time and advice.

Didi

[sanjaun2]

Good luck and keep us posted on what you find

[MolenaarD]

Reinstalled Motronic with factory chip. Reconnected and restarted. Ran up to normal operating temp with no problems, no shut-down.

Called RhineWest and their answering machine informed me working hours M-F 8-6. Sure am getting anxious to "Just Ride It!".

Appreciate the help and moral support.

Didi

[jackd]

Reinstalled Motronic with factory chip. Reconnected and restarted. Ran up to normal operating temp with no problems, no shut-down.

Called RhineWest and their answering machine informed me working hours M-F 8-6. Sure am getting anxious to "Just Ride It!".

Appreciate the help and moral support.

Didi


Good Job...:thumb: I was away for a few days and was glad to see that you found the problem.

New defective always is a bummer. :(

[MolenaarD]

Contacted Jim at Rhine West today and he is sending me a new chip and encryption board. "Gertie" waits patiently in her partially exposed condition as I have elected to wait for the new chip install to complete the tupperware installation.

Again, thanks to everyone who responded. Although some of the speculation appears not to have identified the main problem, it was all good advice and nice just to know there are LT owners out there who care and will take the time to venture an opinion.

VR/Didi
99 K1200LT "Gertie"

[MolenaarD]

Rhine West came through and delivered a new chip and encryption board today. Reinstalled and ran up to normal temp with NO shut-down! And oh by the way, I can really feel the difference with the Remus/Rhine West combo.

All in all not a bad experience. I am removing and installing select tupperware with little reference to the manual anymore. One can significantly reduce the disassembly/assembly time with practice.

Again many thanks.

VR/Didi
99 K1200LT "Gertie"

[ibbones]

Good to hear that it was an "easy" fix and not some strange problem that all the KLT's were going to go through.
Ride fast...uh...I mean safe.