Shocks

[budzee]

How do you know if your shocks are worn? I am not a talented rider but I read here about people saying their shocks are bad. I probably would not know if mine were bad or not. I have a 99 LTC with 31K. What gives? Thanks for advice.

[DavidTaylor]

If the ride is getting really bumpy, or you've maxed out the preload in the rear and it still feels like it's bottoming out, or you're dragging hard parts like the centerstand even through mild corners, or when going over mild bumps or "washboard" pavement in corners and the bike feels like it's losing contact with the ground and is unstable, then you probably need new shocks.

There is no defined "they're worn out" mileage or time on them. I've needed a replacement/rebuild in as short as 18,000 miles, but I know folks who have ridden 80-100,000 miles on the stock ones with no troubles. Suspension wear is more about conditions and riding style in those conditions, and your comfort with the bike's stability and ability to respond to your inputs in a predictable and reliable manner. If you're having consistent and/or serious concern or discomfort in any of these areas, conditions, or scenarios, you may want to consider replacing them.

[messenger13]

One tell-tale sign of bad shocks is how often your mirrors try to fall off. :D

[dshealey]

How do you know if your shocks are worn? I am not a talented rider but I read here about people saying their shocks are bad. I probably would not know if mine were bad or not. I have a 99 LTC with 31K. What gives? Thanks for advice.

Other than the handling getting worse, which happens so slowly most don't realize it until it gets really bad, the biggest indicator is a "thunk" from the front when you hit sharp bumps. That happens because the main purpose of a shock absorber (really bad name) is to keep the wheel from re-bounding back down fast after a bump forces it up. When the shock wears and the damping starts to go away, the wheel rebounds too fast and hits it's bottom limits, thus the sharp "thunk".

[KMC1]

Which brand and/or style is the best one for sporting sport/touring?
This is an upgrade I'm thinking of doing this winter, and am starting to shop them.

[messenger13]

Which brand and/or style is the best one for sporting sport/touring?
This is an upgrade I'm thinking of doing this winter, and am starting to shop them.The Wilburs have the most options. Although one could argue that Ohlins make a "better" shock. Either way, you're spending $1,200 to near $1,500. And that ain't pocket change.

[pieceofficer]

David,
Sunday I hit a pothole and it had a hard THUNK. I was actually looking to the right when I hit it. I heard the thunk, and thought it was actually the wheel coming UP, now after reading your post, am I to believe it is the wheel "falling" back to the end of the extension?


What do I need to do to adjust my front and rear suspension.

2003 K12LT with 40083miles

[KMC1]

The Wilburs have the most options. Although one could argue that Ohlins make a "better" shock. Either way, you're spending $1,200 to near $1,500. And that ain't pocket change.

GACK! COUGH! CHOKE!! Good LORD.
This thing is going to cost me like $5.00/mile at this rate. Seriously.

[Kenny]

There is a guy in Canada that can rebuild the rear shocks on the Lt for a lot less than the cost of a new one.
K

[dshealey]

David,
Sunday I hit a pothole and it had a hard THUNK. I was actually looking to the right when I hit it. I heard the thunk, and thought it was actually the wheel coming UP, now after reading your post, am I to believe it is the wheel "falling" back to the end of the extension?


What do I need to do to adjust my front and rear suspension.

2003 K12LT with 40083miles

If you hit a small to medium pothole, and get the thunk, it is the shock extending to it's stop. When you are on the bike, there is quite a bit of shock compression available, but not much extension, as it does not compress much from the weight on it. With the bike on the centerstand, have someone push down on the back while you watch the front forks, they do not extend much at all beyond the at rest point. The shock can be forced up over three inches and not bottom out on top, but when it re-extends it does not take much shock internal wear to allow it to extend completely, thus the "thunk". It takes a really hard hit to bottom the front suspension on the up stroke.

There really is no adjustments that can be made other than the rear shock pre-load adjuster under the seat. Nothing on the front. When they are worn, time to replace them (with rebuildable units instead of stock).

[UncleRock]

The Wilburs have the most options. Although one could argue that Ohlins make a "better" shock. Either way, you're spending $1,200 to near $1,500. And that ain't pocket change.
I just got a deal on front and rear installed, it's like a new bike.
If your bike was on fire in a truck that went over a cliff, into the ocean. You could use my old ones cheap. :D
Rock

[BillyOmaha]

GACK! COUGH! CHOKE!! Good LORD.
This thing is going to cost me like $5.00/mile at this rate. Seriously.Howdy Kevin,

Surely you're not riding an LT because it's "cost effective"? ;)

IMO, born of experience with virtually all of the farkles one can mount on an LT, quality shocks was the second most important enhancement.

Number "1" was a custom saddle which allowed me ride long enough to need the performance of the shocks.

I run two-up a lot of the time and with the weight appropriate spring rate on the Ohlins, the ride comfort and control is, in a word, excellent.

.

[KMC1]

Honestly, I knew going in this bike would cost me a little more than any other bike I've owned. But in the close to 30 years I've been riding, I have never dropped the kind of coinage this bike needs. And I have never taken better care of a bike than this one either. I guess I'm just having a little bit of sticker shock going into the land of $1k regular service visits, and $500 - $1500 "upgrades" (don't want to use that "F" word :) )
I do admit this is the best ride I've ever had, but it ain't cheap!

[rattso]

I have just installed new Wilbers shocks front and rear and the bike is a different bike. I ended up going with the standard shocks with adjustable pre-load on the rear. The Wilbers get built for your specs fron the start, no swapping springs are needed. The attitude or how the bike sits with me on it is completely different from the stock bike even when the bike was new. I dont fit the model weight of 160 pounds and at 16K the stock bikes springs sagged so much I could not park in some places on the side of the road because of the crown. Worse was when I had a passenger if I added preload the lack of rebound damping had the bike riding like a boat over rolling waves.
The one problem I have with the new shocks is I now feel comfortable at speeds I could not imagine before. I like the ability to quickly be able to dial in rebound damping front and rear for when making changes in load and preload. And by the way the Avons after 300 miles along with these new shocks are wonderfull. The turn in response and ability to make small steering corrections while in a corner are better now than ever.

[BillyOmaha]

....I guess I'm just having a little bit of sticker shock going into the land of $1k regular service visits, and $500 - $1500 "upgrades" (don't want to use that "F" word :) )
I do admit this is the best ride I've ever had, but it ain't cheap!Kevin, I completely understand.

You could get together with some fellow LT'ers out there in New England for a "tech session" and perform your own regular maintenance. It's always a great time and the savings are huge. I do it myself and it's less than $100

Truth be told, those "upgrades" are in fact optional, .....but oh so much fun :)